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Old 03-31-2011, 04:15 AM   #85
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Wow Becky, What did you do with all your spare time before you found this poor little trailer?
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Old 03-31-2011, 06:54 AM   #86
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Well, this past winter I screened in an existing roof on our porch & sewed floor to ceiling curtains (I hate sewing--glad that's over!) So, I needed a new challenge & have found it! My husband is helping me with the plumbing & electric (not things that I'm very good at!) I manage to find about a hour or two each day to tear it apart!

Speaking of electric, my DH thinks there was a major short in the electric of the trailer. There was no coating left on the ground in more than one place. In fact, the streetside that has a hole corroded in it was caused by a bare ground wire. Dang, if only that weren't there! Oh well, I'll have to ask for the rivet gun for Mother's Day!

There are a couple of pretty large holes left from the awning bracket (took the awning off). Are there larger buck rivets that I can use to fill them?
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Old 03-31-2011, 07:32 AM   #87
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Originally Posted by beckybillrae View Post
There are a couple of pretty large holes left from the awning bracket (took the awning off). Are there larger buck rivets that I can use to fill them?
Maybe (the other guys would know). The thing I had thought about for mine was using rivenuts, or acutally aluminum washers. Good squirt of vulkem between every mating surface, then clean it off once tight.
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Old 03-31-2011, 09:42 AM   #88
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Hi Becky,
I'm assuming you're talking about the grey tanks from Vintage Trailer Supply that are 15 gallons. I worked with Steve on the development of these tanks & they were designed to fit within the bellypan cavities between the frame rails & crossmembers.
Colin
Colin, will these tanks fit between the last two rails on the Bambi II? We did some rough measuring on our B2 and are doubtful because the B2 is some 10" narrower than other models. Will it accept the length of the tank? We are not too far along with our own B2 resto to install one if it would work. BTW, for Becky, we got a new Black Tank from Inland RV. It doesn't look exactly stock, but works.
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Old 03-31-2011, 06:21 PM   #89
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Colin, will these tanks fit between the last two rails on the Bambi II? We did some rough measuring on our B2 and are doubtful because the B2 is some 10" narrower than other models. Will it accept the length of the tank? We are not too far along with our own B2 resto to install one if it would work. BTW, for Becky, we got a new Black Tank from Inland RV. It doesn't look exactly stock, but works.
Good question for Colin. Hope he checks in here. I'm also wondering about some missing "C" channel on the front and rear sections of my trailer. I've attached some pix of them. (the white stripe is the sun streaking in). The rear has a 1/4" opening between the floor & wall. My son says he can weld aluminum & can fabricate new c channel. Shouldn't it be all the way along the front as well as the back? We're almost ready to pull the shell off. We're going to use Colin's way & pull it straight up.

I'm also wondering what the two holes in the front (they were under the couch) are for. Are they access for the brakes & tail lights? My '86 doesn't have anything like that, so I'm wondering.....
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Old 03-31-2011, 06:38 PM   #90
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<SNIP>
Speaking of electric, my DH thinks there was a major short in the electric of the trailer. There was no coating left on the ground in more than one place. In fact, the streetside that has a hole corroded in it was caused by a bare ground wire. Dang, if only that weren't there! Oh well, I'll have to ask for the rivet gun for Mother's Day!
More than likely the cause of the hole was electrolysis between the different metals of copper in the ground and the aluminum skin. The ground wire coating probably wore off due to rubbing with the skin when the trailer was in motion. Add a little water (damp) and some electons from the ground wire and the skin loses in the exchange.
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Old 03-31-2011, 06:54 PM   #91
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Originally Posted by beckybillrae View Post
I'm also wondering about some missing "C" channel on the front and rear sections of my trailer. The rear has a 1/4" opening between the floor & wall. My son says he can weld aluminum & can fabricate new c channel. Shouldn't it be all the way along the front as well as the back? We're almost ready to pull the shell off. We're going to use Colin's way & pull it straight up.

I'm also wondering what the two holes in the front (they were under the couch) are for. Are they access for the brakes & tail lights? My '86 doesn't have anything like that, so I'm wondering.....
Thanks so much for the pictures! Looking great! You are inspiring me to get going on my Bambi II demo as well! We have been busy with the baby, but when the time comes, at least I will know what I am looking at and looking for.

It is great your son is such a good fabricator. I have people at work who hook me up with welding and fabrication services. Two have volunteered to come over and repair the frame here in the driveway. My goal is to have the trailer towable by Summer's end and ready for camping (not complete...just ready for camping) by next Summer.

I do think those holes in the floor up front would be for access to the trailer light wiring loom. It appears to be in the right place for that. As for the missing C-Channel, I have no idea. Seems every one of these trailers was a prototype. It would be interesting to see how many production changes were made between my #0002 and your #0003!

Also looking forward to see how your lifting of the shell goes. I plan on doing a shell-on restoration, but who knows? It is a pretty small trailer, so maybe shell-off will be the way to go.

Keep up the good work!! Ben
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Old 03-31-2011, 07:01 PM   #92
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Originally Posted by Antique Pedaler View Post
Colin, will these tanks fit between the last two rails on the Bambi II? We did some rough measuring on our B2 and are doubtful because the B2 is some 10" narrower than other models. Will it accept the length of the tank? We are not too far along with our own B2 resto to install one if it would work. BTW, for Becky, we got a new Black Tank from Inland RV. It doesn't look exactly stock, but works.
Antique Pedaler,
Yes they should fit as the Bambi II frame width is the same as other Airstream's of the era. I am assuming of course that the frame height is 4" though. These tanks were designed to fit the narrower 13 panel models of the 50's, however they still fit the 60's & 70's era trailers. Linking two together is wonderful too!
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Old 03-31-2011, 07:04 PM   #93
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Congrats on the baby, Ben! You'll have your trailer ready by the time he/she (you'll have to tell us what the baby is....) is walking! I have a little grandson who I look forward to having sleepovers in my trailer. (my finished one!) Lots of fun!
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Old 03-31-2011, 07:26 PM   #94
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Originally Posted by beckybillrae View Post
Good question for Colin. Hope he checks in here. I'm also wondering about some missing "C" channel on the front and rear sections of my trailer. I've attached some pix of them. (the white stripe is the sun streaking in). The rear has a 1/4" opening between the floor & wall. My son says he can weld aluminum & can fabricate new c channel. Shouldn't it be all the way along the front as well as the back? We're almost ready to pull the shell off. We're going to use Colin's way & pull it straight up.

I'm also wondering what the two holes in the front (they were under the couch) are for. Are they access for the brakes & tail lights? My '86 doesn't have anything like that, so I'm wondering.....
Becky,
The "C" channel should go all of the way across, however this being the "entry level" trailer at the time, Airstream may have left them out as a cost saving measure.
The holes you are looking at are "Vermin access hatches"..............
I wouldn't bother cutting them into your new floor.
Colin

PS Your new axle is scheduled to be built 4/7/11
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Old 03-31-2011, 07:43 PM   #95
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The holes you are looking at are "Vermin access hatches"..............
I wouldn't bother cutting them into your new floor.
Colin

PS Your new axle is scheduled to be built 4/7/11 YEAH!

Is the hole that's cut in the floor under the refrigerator a vermin access hatch too? The vermin whiz actually ate the c channel across part of the front. Don't want any more holes than we need! Is the vent behind & out the top enough, or is the floor "vent" needed too?
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Old 03-31-2011, 07:49 PM   #96
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Congrats on the baby, Ben! You'll have your trailer ready by the time he/she (you'll have to tell us what the baby is....) is walking! I have a little grandson who I look forward to having sleepovers in my trailer. (my finished one!) Lots of fun!
A little baby girl- Emma Lynn! We will fit in the tiny Scotty this year, but the Bambi will be required for future forays!

Did you get the lower interior panels off immediately adjacent to the main door frame? Was yours buck riveted in place? I am not sure how to remove those...I do not have buck riveting capabilities at this time, but I guess I will get some if need be.
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Old 03-31-2011, 07:58 PM   #97
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A little baby girl- Emma Lynn! We will fit in the tiny Scotty this year, but the Bambi will be required for future forays!

Did you get the lower interior panels off immediately adjacent to the main door frame? Was yours buck riveted in place? I am not sure how to remove those...I do not have buck riveting capabilities at this time, but I guess I will get some if need be.
Yes, they're off. The door was buck riveted. You have to just bite the bullet & try them. I used a center punch & made a ding in the middle. Then I drilled them out with a 1/8" bit on a regular drill. You can see the back of them on the door frame (mine doesn't have any seal on it...I can't remember what side it was on). If the head sticks, just take your center punch & put it in the hole you made & wiggle it around. It should come off. Start at the bottom where no one would notice if you screw it up!

And by the way, girls are wonderful! My daughters are some of my best friends now that they're adults! Enjoy her!
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Old 04-01-2011, 06:25 AM   #98
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<SNIP> Is the vent behind & out the top enough, or is the floor "vent" needed too?
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The hole at the bottom for that type of fridge was to allow fresh air in to supply oxygen to the combustion chamber while the fridge was on propane. Hot air would then rise and exit the top vent - even when the fridge was on electric - the convection accross the coils was necessary for the fridge to work properly. The floor hole should have been protected with a screen mesh strong enough to prevent mice from chewing through.
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