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Old 03-26-2011, 09:42 PM   #71
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I got everything but the shower pan & black tank out this afternoon. Any suggestions as to how to get the drain out of the shower pan? It's the only thing holding the pan in. Is there some special tool that hooks in the "x" in the drain to turn it? My husband couldn't get it to turn. I also need to somehow get the black tank unhooked. It's free all the way around except the pipe going down. I have to remove an access plate from the belly pan to see if I can do something. The screws are rusted into place....probably will wind up grinding them off. Oh well, such an adventure! Oh, the black tank is full of mouse nests too! The insulation that was stored in the trailer made perfect bedding EVERYWHERE!
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Old 03-26-2011, 11:29 PM   #72
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I ordered axles from Colin H today. I'm going to pick them up in Elkhart IN when they're ready. While I'm out there I'll go to the RV Surplus store for stuff I need (stove, tanks, fridge, etc.)
I'm going to use exterior Fir plywood for the subfloor. I looked into Nyloboard. Called the company and a local dealer said a 1/2" sheet was $288 and a 3/4" sheet was $429. Shipping was another $120. I figure I need 4 sheets. I have way too many other things to spend $ on. The floor in mine is 46 years old. It was 1/2 buried in dirt. I can still stand in it & not fall through. I'll be dead in 46 more years (unless I live to be 96, which is pretty unlikely with my family history!), so I'm going for the fir. I'm going to epoxy the edges & seal the middle of both sides. That's the plan!

Thanks for the tip about the Vintage tutorial. I changed the valves in my '86 last spring. It wasn't too bad a job. Not sure if I should keep this black tank or get a new one. I pitched the fresh water tank. I couldn't think about drinking anything from in there! I'm planning on putting in a grey tank, but want to put in something bigger than 15 gallons. I'll have to do some more reading!
Hi Becky,
I'm assuming you're talking about the grey tanks from Vintage Trailer Supply that are 15 gallons. I worked with Steve on the development of these tanks & they were designed to fit within the bellypan cavities between the frame rails & crossmembers. I have recently complete four rotiserrie chassis restorations & we installed two of these tanks in each of the trailers. They now have 30 gallon capacity each, along with a flush bellypan, so they look completely original from below. Steve & I also have "spin welding" tools so these tanks can be configured to suit virtually any layout.
Good luck with it,
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Old 03-26-2011, 11:45 PM   #73
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Originally Posted by beckybillrae View Post
I got everything but the shower pan & black tank out this afternoon. Any suggestions as to how to get the drain out of the shower pan? It's the only thing holding the pan in. Is there some special tool that hooks in the "x" in the drain to turn it? My husband couldn't get it to turn. I also need to somehow get the black tank unhooked. It's free all the way around except the pipe going down. I have to remove an access plate from the belly pan to see if I can do something. The screws are rusted into place....probably will wind up grinding them off. Oh well, such an adventure! Oh, the black tank is full of mouse nests too! The insulation that was stored in the trailer made perfect bedding EVERYWHERE!
As you can well imagine, I've taken a lot of these drains out. There is a special tool to do this that's available at Lowes & other plumbing supply shops, however the "T" typically breaks out of the drain before it comes loose. The next approach is to take a pair of vice grips & hook one jaw on the outside of the drain & the other jaw on the hole in the drain. Bend the vice grips over until the perimiter of the drain lifts up. Then grab the lifted portion & wiggle it around until a chunk breaks off, then continue all of the way around until the drain & cast iron trap below, falls down through the drain hole. The shower pan will be free to lift out then.

Once you get the old trap out of the bellypan area, you can bang a cold chisel or chessy screwdriver down between the bent drain & the casting & fold the drain inwards until it comes out of the trap. The trap can be cleaned up with a wire brush in order to re use. You can buy an identical drain fitting at Lowes in the plumbing dept. It's called a "bar sink drain" on their rack. These drains are used in the sinks as well
Another fun job...........
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Old 03-27-2011, 06:50 AM   #74
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Hi Becky,
I'm assuming you're talking about the grey tanks from Vintage Trailer Supply that are 15 gallons. I worked with Steve on the development of these tanks & they were designed to fit within the bellypan cavities between the frame rails & crossmembers. I have recently complete four rotiserrie chassis restorations & we installed two of these tanks in each of the trailers. They now have 30 gallon capacity each, along with a flush bellypan, so they look completely original from below. Steve & I also have "spin welding" tools so these tanks can be configured to suit virtually any layout.
Good luck with it,
Colin
Good idea, Colin. Would you replace the black tank now too, since it's so old? Do they still make them? The Bambi II bathroom doesn't look like a Caravel or a Bambi from what I can find. I'm trying to be careful because I'm not sure if I can find replacements for the tank & shower pan. I'll get one of the menfolk around here to try your method for removing the drain today. Then I'll attack the black tank.
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Old 03-27-2011, 09:22 AM   #75
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You could reuse the black tank if its still good, but I would make absolutely sure that it is. If it isn't, you can have a new tank made to your exact specifications. There are several places online that does this kind of work.

I haven't reached this point in my '58 restoration yet. My black tank is fine, but I'm still thinking about replacing it because of it's age.
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Old 03-27-2011, 02:55 PM   #76
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My DH got the shower pan out with Colin's method. Yeah! I didn't get to the black tank. It's really cold out! 37 degrees. Too cold for this time of year, that's for sure! So, I moved on to removing the fiberglass wheel wells, fiberglass refrigerator vent, and my husband & I removed the first section of wall. I started labeling stuff because I'm afraid I won't get it back together! Never was too good at puzzles. I think I'm going to have to get good at fiberglass since the wheel wells & edges of the vent are pretty beat up. I've heard it's not too bad to do. I've got to keep moving & get it emptied. The flying ants were hatching in there today. Yuck!
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Old 03-27-2011, 03:06 PM   #77
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Great job!!! I use a magic marker and mark items and panels while still in place...then I take pictures of the items and the marks.....I make alignment marks too. It has helped alot.
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Old 03-27-2011, 03:18 PM   #78
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i just want to say.. in todays world of cheap, throw away stuff... its really cool to have other folks who appreciate putting in the 'extra work' to keep something old alive. yes, its easier to buy it new. yes, everyone else thinks we're crazy. but my answer to that; yes, its much cooler to show off a vintage AS than some new white box!

and really awesome find - im so jealous when we finally move to NC next month, i'll be making my husband drive everywhere; ill be too distracted looking to the woods for old airstreams!!!!
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Old 03-29-2011, 08:16 PM   #79
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We got the black tank out this afternoon. I saw Colin H's post on Vintage Restorations & hope we can reuse it with some modifications. We got a couple more lower panels removed. I'm wondering if the end panels that are buck riveted are one big unit or have to be removed by each section? There are blind rivets that look like they're holding it up there in one big unit (I can only hope). Does anyone know? I think the upper skins will be up until after we remove the frame, but I'm just thinking ahead. (I can't wait until I can spray the whole thing out!)
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Old 03-29-2011, 09:13 PM   #80
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Originally Posted by beckybillrae View Post
We got the black tank out this afternoon. I saw Colin H's post on Vintage Restorations & hope we can reuse it with some modifications. We got a couple more lower panels removed. I'm wondering if the end panels that are buck riveted are one big unit or have to be removed by each section? There are blind rivets that look like they're holding it up there in one big unit (I can only hope). Does anyone know? I think the upper skins will be up until after we remove the frame, but I'm just thinking ahead. (I can't wait until I can spray the whole thing out!)
Hi Becky,
I guess your interior endcaps are aluminum (most are fiberglass in this era) & you are correct, they were installed as a complete unit. Do not drill out any of the bucked rivets as this will only make more work for yourself. Once the remainder of the interior skins are removed, you can remove the "set" rivets that are holding the endcaps in place, then manipulate them out the door.
Have fun,
Colin

PS Better get your pressure washer tuned up
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Old 03-29-2011, 09:34 PM   #81
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Good idea, Colin. Would you replace the black tank now too, since it's so old? Do they still make them? The Bambi II bathroom doesn't look like a Caravel or a Bambi from what I can find. I'm trying to be careful because I'm not sure if I can find replacements for the tank & shower pan. I'll get one of the menfolk around here to try your method for removing the drain today. Then I'll attack the black tank.
Hi Becky,
I've had good luck using Incon direct.com for black tanks. I believe they build one that suits Caravels & may suit your Bambi II. The nice thing about them is that you can get them without the inlet flange bonded in so you can orient it within the black tank cover, then drill to suit the original position of the toilet. They also sell the toilet flange along with "regrind" which when mixed with acetone creates a slurry allowing you to chemically weld the flange to the tank.................just like the factory does it
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Old 03-30-2011, 07:58 PM   #82
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We got the black tank out this afternoon. I saw Colin H's post on Vintage Restorations & hope we can reuse it with some modifications.
Am I correct in assuming that the shower pan and the black tank are the self-same molded fiberglass piece? It looks to me like the toilet sits up in the black tank which is the same mold as the lower shower base/floor with drain.

Do you have any pictures of this extraction? I will be tearing into our Bambi II in a number of weeks and have already really benefited from your demo analysis.

I am realizing that being in a doctoral program and helping my wife take care of our now two-week old daughter will be very taxing on my spare time...but I firmly believe in balanced lifestyle, and redoing this Airstream will constitute much of my leisure/relaxation time this Spring, Summer, and Fall.
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Old 03-30-2011, 08:58 PM   #83
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The shower pan and black tank are one in the same. The lower pan (where the drain is located) can be separated from the black tank/toilet by removing the rivets along the edge of the black tank. I gotta tell ya, the bathroom was a PITA to get out. I used the sawzall to get the black tank/toilet all the way out. I removed an access pan from under the trailer & then cut both sides of the dump valve (actually, I conned my son into sawing it for me) He tried to loosen the nuts on either side, but it was not going anywhere. Both pieces are fiberglass, not plastic. They both survived & I'll be reusing them. You have to remove the plastic strip along the top edge of the pans (mine was kind of white) Then, you have to remove the silver strip that is under that (it has rivets all the way around it). You also have to remove the walls to get all of this stuff out. I'm making new walls, etc. I'll have to get my camera & upload some more pictures (I have lots). It'll be tuff to do this & not destroy anything so you can put it back in......
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Old 03-30-2011, 09:00 PM   #84
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Maybe someone else knows if this can be removed without removing the walls--? Just seems like it would be really hard.
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