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Old 01-08-2010, 05:17 PM   #113
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Dinette is done

The Carlos/Uwe method of making a dinette is a snap. This went together quickly and is very solid. I used 1 1/2" oak framing, notched as they did in their threads. The seats are cut and are made of 1/2" birch face ply.
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Old 01-08-2010, 05:24 PM   #114
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Cushions are cut

Can't wait for things to finish drying an curing in the Caravel. The cushions came out very well.

We went to KTT Enterprisestoday and cut all the pieces to size.

With 20 years in the latex foam business, I was pretty picky about the foam that we'd use. I like the idea of the original Wally mattress -- latex for comfort over polyurethane for stiffness and light weight. Wally used a latex/poly/latex sandwich, but -- in my opinion -- wasted the bottom layer of latex. It added weight, but wasn't near enough to the body to make a difference.

We used a 3" layer of latex (about 4.5 pounds/cubic foot) over 3" of Urethane (about 1.8 pounds per cubic foot). The combo seems to be the best compromise for seating and sleeping.

Technically, it was a bottom layer of 1835 (1.8 PCF, 35 ILD) polyurethane foam under 32 ILD Talalay latex ( the best in the world).

Here's what it looks like. You're welcome to sit on it at the WBBB Open House.
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Old 01-08-2010, 06:10 PM   #115
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mix a small amount of japan dryer into the tung oil and it will dry faster. I prefer to use Watco Oil Finish, for it gives the same look, penetrates deeply, and gets a hard surface. I am fairly sure Uwe has evolved his finish to include some japan dryer and a bit of poly too. Do not quote me, but I think that is the mix he uses now.
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Old 01-09-2010, 06:42 AM   #116
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Japan Dryer

Frank,

Thanks for the tip on the Japan Dryer. I'll check it out and promise not to tell Uwe.

John
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Old 01-09-2010, 07:35 AM   #117
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just a touch now... follow the directions on it. The Watco Oil finish has a mix of oil, wax, dryer, and some thinner to make it penetrate deep into the wood.
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Old 01-09-2010, 08:07 AM   #118
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Watco

Frank-

Can it go over a first coat of Tung Oil?
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Old 01-09-2010, 08:23 AM   #119
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yes it can because most of the composition is tung oil. There was a thread going where someone used another boat type oil finish and I had wanted to give it a shot, but cannot find that thread now. Here is how I have used oil finish for years with excellent results...
sand to 120 grit. apply oil in copious amounts and let sit for 5 minutes. Wipe all excess off and allow to dry for 12-24 hours. Sand with 150, repeat. Then 180, then 220, then 320. By now it looks like glass has coated the surface... oh after the first coat give it 24 hours and always wipe off the excess or it will gel on the surface and remain tacky a long time.
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Old 01-10-2010, 11:22 AM   #120
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Vacation's over

It's been a 3 week marathon, doing as much as I could on the Caravel in preparation for our upcoming trip.

This is what it looks like when we checked out cushions. The back of the gaucho isn't cut yet, so it won't be so tall when finished.

Lots of frame-and-panel work to do, but that's all indoor work. Cushion covers, drapes and the punch list and we're off!

John
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Old 01-10-2010, 11:46 AM   #121
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Your work looks fantastic, John! Thanks for sharing the details and pictures. You're almost through!

Bill
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Old 01-10-2010, 12:17 PM   #122
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Flipping helps prevents sagging . . .

Quote:
Originally Posted by 65CV View Post
. . . I like the idea of the original Wally mattress -- latex for comfort over polyurethane for stiffness and light weight. Wally used a latex/poly/latex sandwich, but -- in my opinion -- wasted the bottom layer of latex. It added weight, but wasn't near enough to the body to make a difference.
Hi 65CV:

You are doing an inspirational job on your Caravel interior.

Just a guess, but maybe the purpose behind Wally putting latex on the top and bottom of a cushion was to allow it to be flipped over without losing any comfort. If Wally's cushions had an irregular shape (like your dinette seat cushions), then once flipped upside-down they would also have to be swapped side-to-side with their opposite twin to regain the correct orientation. Turning a cushion over from time to time would seem to help prevent it from taking a permanent "set" due to constant use in only one position. The same concept applies to a bed's mattress, which periodically should be flipped over and periodically rotated end to end to prevent it from taking a permanent set or sag from constant use in a single position.
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Old 01-10-2010, 06:12 PM   #123
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Thanks, Fred

Fred,

It's an honor to hear your compliments on our work.

Wally was savvy at the time to plan for the need to flip the foam. The 1960's Latex Foam folks were trying to combat the threat of cheap urethane with added filler. Hopefully the current suppliers will never forget that lesson.

Wally did make one mistake in my opinion -- he included a piece of masonite as a backer board that precluded the ability to flip the mattress -- at least in our '63 Globetrotter.

My current mattress, which is made with no fillers, hasn't needed a flip in over 10 years. If someone chooses latex, choose carefully. The composition makes all the difference.

If you are interested in more info on foam in that era, PM me. My dad was Technical Director for B.F. Goodrich, one of the 4 suppliers of latex foam from the early '50's to mid '70's. I have his files, which include competitor's analysis. I was in the business for a decade or two as well.

John
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Old 01-10-2010, 07:31 PM   #124
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Another great thread! Thanks for the quick read. Mine turned into a novel! ha!

JP
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Old 01-23-2010, 04:23 PM   #125
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Great thread

A-Merry-Can -

That thread is incredible.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f36/...ent-17197.html

It was one of the first ones I read on this forum. I had forgotten how much I learned in that one.

Thanks!

John

btw- Mary thinks you have the best handle on the forums.
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Old 01-23-2010, 04:55 PM   #126
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this has been a great read. thanks for the trip and congrats
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