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Old 05-04-2010, 04:47 PM   #1
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1965 17' Caravel
Wichita , Kansas
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 12
Putting the '65 Caravel back together

I am getting ready to re- zolatone our gutted 65 Caravel. After pulling the belly pan, and fixing the obligatory floor sections ( which was fairly minor- surprisingly), and one rusted outrigger & cross member, I am ready to start prepping for a new zolatone interior. I purchase a new 45amp converter and fuse box from the great folks at Vintage Trailer Supply, and would like to understand how it all hooks up before I start disconnecting the old. I have the same set up as Toastie posted pics of some time ago showing how things hook up at the converter side, so I get that. I dont understand how to hook things up at the fuse box side- all the light/receptacle wiring coming out of the skin that go into the old fuse box- the one w/ the toggle switches for city/battery power, etc. Anyone have pics showing how all this hooks up to a new fuse box? I plan on having an electrician check me out, but would like to understand it better before I disconnect all that.
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Old 05-06-2010, 02:36 AM   #2
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1959 26' Overlander
Western , Massachusetts
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,466
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Original Manual


Congrats on getting to the stage where you're rebuilding!

Would the original manual help? Chapter 11 has the original wiring diagrams. I don't think it's online anymore, but if you pm me, I'll email you a copy.


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Old 05-06-2010, 05:16 PM   #3
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1965 17' Caravel
Wichita , Kansas
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 12
Thanks John! I have copy of that, just not smart enough to figure out how it works. I want to go from what I have (on the left side of pic) to the 12V fuse panel on the right. Thought someone surely has made this exact change over
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Old 05-06-2010, 08:21 PM   #4
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1965 17' Caravel
1961 24' Tradewind
Ephrata , Washington
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 84
Just went through that with our 65 caravel. In my case I had the street-side outer panel off of the trailer so it made it easier to do the wiring changes. I took each wire and used a VOM and did a continuity check on each wire and labeled it on both ends 110V and 12VDC. PM me if you want more information as to what I did. Roger
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Old 05-06-2010, 08:31 PM   #5
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2016 30' Classic
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Hinckley , Ohio
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I've been watching this and waiting for Andy to chime in on this. I did the exact inverter replacment. I have not made any changes to the Univolt. But, I can't see how the inverter could charge the battery. The only time it's charged is when it's hooked to the tow. I didn't see a need to tear out the univolt, but it would be nice to have the battery maintained when your pluged in to 110 power.
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