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Old 04-23-2014, 11:21 AM   #57
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1965 17' Caravel
1965 17' Caravel
Memphis , Tennessee
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Here is the bath during prep, before Hardnose. Also included here is a shot of the trap door I built into the floor to access the water and electric hookups. I installed a stainless Furrion inlet in the same hole that the original pipe inlet was. I got rid of the old pipe and added this access door. The water will be beside the electric using the other notch in the door. I will add more photos of this later, when it is complete.
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Old 04-23-2014, 11:41 AM   #58
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1968 17' Caravel
Battle Ground , Washington
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Re: Miatas - I heard about the Laguna gathering. Wish I could make it. Since my other great love is Mustangs, it's a big year - 50 year celebrations for the Mustang, 25 year celebrations for the Miatas!

On your grey water tank, will you have a valve on it that you will open to drain it? I have been thinking about how that would work.

Floor looks great! Your trailer looks so bright and clean inside!
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Old 04-23-2014, 12:00 PM   #59
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1965 17' Caravel
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Memphis , Tennessee
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Well, it will drain at the dump valve. I will be using this Valterra that has two valves, one for grey and one for black. Should I consider anything else?

Thanks for the complement. I sometimes look back at the old photos when we dragged it home and realize that it is going to look much cleaner than before.

I used to have a 66 Mustang and love those cars too!
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Old 04-23-2014, 01:23 PM   #60
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Nice, that looks like just the thing For some reason I never considered replacing the existing valve, but that makes perfect sense!
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Old 04-23-2014, 02:46 PM   #61
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1965 17' Caravel
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In my case, with new black tank and grey tank the Valterra system is the way to go. There is a metal plate that can be used to convert an old tank to the new Valterra valve system. The Valterra valves are a reasonable price though and a much better value than the old Thetford valves, so it might make since to convert from that respect. Valterra also has more options.
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Old 04-23-2014, 03:52 PM   #62
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You know, since we only have access to that huge under-sink area through a little door, I wonder if there would be some way of making that whole front piece come off below the sink, so it could be removed for access, but reinstalled and still look original the rest of the time?

I had a copper water pipe leak under there on a trip, and it was quite the contortionist act to get it fixed while only having access through the little cabinet door and the closet. Likewise with the faucet replacement. We keep our toiletries in a tupperware bin on the top shelf under the sink and always end up blindly rooting around in there up to my shoulder to find where it's slid to after a trip. So much space, such terrible access But if you find you need to make repairs on the grey tank, having wide open access would be nice.
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Old 04-23-2014, 06:05 PM   #63
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I like the way it looks and only hopes mine that it looks as good when I get to that point.
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Old 04-23-2014, 11:07 PM   #64
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Cliff, yours is looking good too. The only reason it looks like I am farther along is that I decided to work on the fun stuff for a while to keep my sanity (and to avoid bad weather). I chose the frame on method while you are doing the frame off. Yours will be more solid because of it and you have finished your belly pan. I have chosen to work inside and still have to finish my belly pan upside down. So, it may be that you are ahead of me!

Stephanie, I'm sure there would be a way to make an access door for more entry room. I did a lot of fiberglass repair work on my bathroom. A previous owner cut large holes out of the front of the tub section to repair copper pipes. When I got her there were aluminum plates screwed in to cover the holes. To me that looked terrible, so I repaired those holes in the redo. I feel that I could do about anything in fiberglass now. If a person was going to go to the trouble to make a larger access and had the bathroom apart, a larger door could be fabricated and a larger opening. Maybe I should have thought of that, but I think I was pretty far along in my progress when I confirmed the VTS tank would actually fit. I actually didn't know for sure until a couple of weeks ago when I was dry fitting everything back in, and did the cardboard mock tank to make sure it would fit. That's when I placed the order for the tank. By that time all the fiberglass was repaired and repainted.
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Old 04-24-2014, 11:21 AM   #65
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1965 17' Caravel
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You know I just thought of a problem with the grey tank. I was only going to put one valve in at the black tank that would be a two way valve. Thinking about it now, the grey tank valve closed at the black tank only water would back up into the shower before filling the grey tank. So I will need another valve in the pipe before the shower connection. Thanks Stephanie for making me think about this a little more. Now more parts to order or pick up locally.
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Old 04-24-2014, 11:29 AM   #66
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Jewel65

Beautiful work on repairing the fiberglass and painting it with Por whitecote. I would probably repaint all of my fiberglass with whitecote if I could be assured that it would turn out as well as yours has. You have also done a very nice job on the floor.

My son lives in Fort Worth, and I have a sister in law in Memphis. Maybe we can meet up sometime.

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Old 04-24-2014, 01:51 PM   #67
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Dan, I don't want to "white coat" it, (pun intended) there are some runs that still show, but all in all I like the new white shiny look much better than the original dull bone color and aged sheen it had before. The trick is to use a sponge mini-roller and thin the paint down a little with xylene, then paint several thin layers. Only mix as much as you need for each coat and don't let the mixed batch sit longer than a few hours, or it will start to thicken and set up.

Let me know when you are in Memphis and we can meet up. I'll even show you our bathroom. Doesn't that sound exciting!
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Old 04-26-2014, 11:29 AM   #68
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How do you take out the closets? I have removed the overhead bins and cut the floor screws and vent pipes. Can't figure out how to remove the closets though? Thought if I asked I could save some time...trying to get ready for Alumapalooza.
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Old 04-26-2014, 05:30 PM   #69
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Mine were screw and riveted to the metal strip in the back and I had 4 long screws in the back through the frame (wood closet 1 X 2's) they made sure it was not going anywhere.
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Old 04-28-2014, 09:38 AM   #70
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1965 17' Caravel
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Yes, as RM66 said. Lots of rivets and screws into the adjoining cabinets and bathroom section. Dill out the rivets and unscrew the screws. Floor screws are the worst, they are rusty and hard to get started out. One method is to screw like you are tightening until you feel it pop, then reverse direction and maybe it will come out. If you have removed the overhead bins, it is very similar. Just look at all the places it is attached and start working it. Eventually you will have it loose. Closets can come out in one piece without dissembling down further.
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