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Old 08-15-2012, 05:36 AM   #15
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1965 17' Caravel
Lexington , South Carolina
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Jewel65, keep the updates coming. I did the same work last Winter on my Caravel and these post are giving me flash backs! Just so you know, it is all worth it. We are enjoying are little Caravel this Summer more than we thought we would of!

I have a quick question for you Stefrobrts, if you put the grey tank under the sink will the shower drain to it? I have a 65 Caravel that I'm about 80% done with and was going to add the grey tank in the frame this Fall. Your idea seems easier, but I'm concerned about the shower plumbing.
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Old 08-15-2012, 10:28 AM   #16
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1965 17' Caravel
1965 17' Caravel
Memphis , Tennessee
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Have thought about a grey tank there. Maximus, I can't see how the shower would empty into it if it is above the floor, but maybe Stefrobrts will chime in. I do think it would be worth it just for the sinks though. Any ideas what vendor makes one to fit there? I am thinking of using Apex for the black tank like CJohnson did. I suppose they could make a grey one too. It's pricey though.
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Old 08-15-2012, 11:20 AM   #17
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1965 17' Caravel
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My black tank was good along w/my fresh water tank....I was very lucky! As of now I'm planning on getting two grey tanks from Vintage Trailer Supply that will fit in between the frame rails. That will be 30 gallons of grey water.

I'm glad I held off a season before installing the grey tank. I was originally only going to install one 15 gallon tank. My wife and I really enjoy SC State Parks and most of them don't have sewage. The 15 just wouldn't of met our needs.

Enjoy the ride!
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Old 08-15-2012, 10:27 PM   #18
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The caravel frame is 3" so that tank will have to hang down below the frame by 3/4". Are you just going to leave the belly pan off back there? I'm still debating the options, so all ideas are on the table.
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Old 08-15-2012, 10:56 PM   #19
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You can easily and very neatly drop the belly pan the needed additional amount by bending aluminum into a Z or C shape depending on the orientation needed. The top leg sits on the frame below the floor then hangs down and the bottom leg becomes the base to which you rivet your belly pan. My 55 actually came from the factory this way and held up very well. I think the aluminum "rib" flexes better than the steel frame and the rivets actually stayed attached better. If you can't picture it I will see if I can find a photo somewhere
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Old 05-06-2013, 03:23 PM   #20
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1965 17' Caravel
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So, I have not updated things here lately, but progress has been happening, just not as quickly as I would like. I did not do much work on the trailer during the winter. The spring is off to a slow start too as it has been raining a lot. My work does not allow me as much time as I would like either. However, some progress is happing.

Last fall the frame was fixed by my welder friend with several new outriggers and a couple of new cross members. The metal replacement was thicker than original, so it is nice and stiff now. I have new flooring in the rear now and have started to bolt it down. I added lots of Trempro in the back between the skin and bumper so there should be no leaks back there now. All of the rear frame, new and old has several coats of Por 15 now. I just received three 4x12 sheets of .032 5002-32 aluminum to replace the belly pan when it all goes back together. I'll need a piece to form a new banana wrap in the back pretty soon, so I just ordered it all at one time. I was not going to remove the flooring in the front, but the back is looking so good I might just tackle the front while I'm at it. I can access the frame better to get all the rust out if I do that.

I thought long and hard about gray water tanks, but I just cannot see the benefits of adding them. If I added tanks above the axle some piping would need to go through a cross member. With a 3" frame, I just don't see where it would be strong enough once the hole was cut. If it was above the floor the shower would not empty into it. So, I am thinking I will use the trailer as it was originally designed and take along a blue-boy if needed. We are use to a pop-up camper with no tanks or bathroom, so it will still be a move up for us.

I hope to get some major work done in the next few weeks. In order to help with motivation we went down to our local WBCCI unit as they were having a rally close by. We met some very nice folks. We weren't camping, but we talked with them and they signed me up as a member! Now I have to get this thing finished, so we can use our membership before the year is out! I am hoping for mid to late summer now as a campable trailer date. More to come...
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Old 05-06-2013, 04:38 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jewel65 View Post
So, I am thinking I will use the trailer as it was originally designed and take along a blue-boy if needed. We are use to a pop-up camper with no tanks or bathroom, so it will still be a move up for us
We still have our original black tank and no grey tank in our 65 Safari. We do take a blue boy when we travel but have found that much of the time we didn't need it. Between full hook-up rv parks and boondocking in National and State Forest campgrounds it's hardly come out of the truck.
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Old 05-06-2013, 06:06 PM   #22
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I put in two grey tanks. One behind the axles and one between. The front one gets the sinks and the back on the shower. I connected them together. The big benefit is being able to run your sink while on the road. You may want to reconsider. At least a small one for the kitchen sink. I have over 60 gal between the two. Not that I would travel with them full. But it sure nice at camp!
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Old 05-30-2013, 10:30 AM   #23
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1965 17' Caravel
1965 17' Caravel
Memphis , Tennessee
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Ok Purman and others made me take a second look at the tanks. I want to take care of this before I close everything back up. No where close to that now, but I need to get the decisions made anyway. So I am rethinking the position of the tanks and think it will be easier to add them at the rear between the last two cross members. If I do this I will not have to run any pipes through a cross member. However, It will limit the size of the tank because of all the plumbing and everything happening in that space. So a couple of ideas here...

I understand it would be advantageous to have the black tank after the grey tank, so when emptying the grey helps clean out the black. The only way I can see doing this is if I lowered the position of the black tank to below the floor rather than the original above location. Would this cause any other problems? I am thinking of building a wooden box for the old location for stiffness where the old tank was and running a pipe through it and through the floor to the new black tank underneath the floor. One of the side benefits of this is that it will be a less expensive tank, since I won't be limited to getting one custom made or use the only production one available from Inland RV that costs $400. This is the one I was thinking about TANK.

Actually I could just buy two of these, one for the black and one for the grey. If the grey was much larger I would have to put it under the shower without a p trap. That might not be good. I think both of these on each side would still allow enough room for piping under the shower. Any advise or comments?
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Old 05-31-2013, 12:17 PM   #24
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1965 17' Caravel
1965 17' Caravel
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here is a drawing of what I am thinking looking from below the trailer...
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Old 06-14-2013, 02:14 PM   #25
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1965 17' Caravel
1965 17' Caravel
Memphis , Tennessee
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Update...
I just ordered the new axle. It will be an Axis from Colin Hyde 2700 - 3700lb with safety lube spindles and 10" brakes. It should be delivered in 3-4 weeks!

Still debating on the grey and black tanks, but am leaning toward building or customizing my own tanks using sheet ABS as Minno on this forum has done.

Back half of the floor is in now, new water heater is in but not plumbed yet. Am about to pull the front half of the floor to expose the front part of the frame. Will replace the floor and POR 15 the frame in the front. I am deep into it now. Hope to post some photos soon.
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Old 07-18-2013, 07:23 PM   #26
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1965 17' Caravel
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Memphis , Tennessee
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I got the axle in today! It's on the back of the truck and I have to get some help to get it off. Since last post the front half of the floor is cut, primed and installed but I am still bolting it down. I tried my hand at welding the minor spots that needed it on the front part of the fame. It wasn't in as bad of shape as the back part, so it was a fairly minor welding job, but I'm not an experienced welder, so it was a challenge for me. It went well, although my welds are not that pretty the job is done and the frame is painted with pro 15. I also painted the front hitch, steps and back bumper with Sterling Silver. If I can get the floor bolted down in the next few days I might try to get some help and install the axle. It's raining now, so I am posting my progress rather than working.
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Old 07-19-2013, 07:14 AM   #27
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1965 Caravel , Wisconsin
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I've been debating whether or not to gut our trailer just because of the floor issues that are running wild in my mind! I saw your picture with your feet coming out of the bottom of your trailer What have you been covering it up with when the weather turns fowl? We really have no where to work on ours except under a carport. I love your updates, add more pictures
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Old 07-19-2013, 10:36 AM   #28
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Here is my suggestion for your dump valve quandry- A dual valve assembly is available by using one of these...

Valterra 90º Ell Collector Bayonet Outlet, 3"
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