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Old 03-30-2004, 09:29 AM   #21
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John,

Anyway you could post the photos so that we all could see the jacking place(s) you are talking about?

BTW, the damage didn't happen with your new Classic did it?

Eric
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Old 03-30-2004, 09:32 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pahaska
Before I had my trailer jacked to install the Centramatic balancers on the hubs, I emailed Jim Parrett at Airstream with the question whether to jack on the axle mounting plate or the marked spot on the frame rails.

His answer was to use the spot on the frame rails and he attached several photos of a trailer in the Airstream shop jacked up by the spots on the frame rails. he said that you can use the axle mounting plate, but if there is more chance of doing damage if it is not jacked exactly right.
I also would tend to do as the factory does. But, a while back I posted a question about jacking as my owner's manual only talks about the ease of backing the trailer up an inclined, six inch block. Sure, if you only need one wheel off, but I needed all four off for new rubber when I was prepping the Overlander to get it out of the PO's driveway.

One responder indicated his (later model) jack point plates were even labeled "jack". Then another person warned of impending doom by placing anything more than a stabilizing jack there while camping. It seemed to me that Airstream would have put similar plates in a more forward location if that was the intended funtion. I believe the thread stopped after Andy@Inland advised the six inch lift idea.

Pahaska - First, sorry to hear about your soft ground damage. I would have been beside myself with fury as I am sure you were. Second, does your owners manual say anything about raising the wheels?

Thanks,
Tom
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Old 03-30-2004, 09:46 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tcwilliams
One responder indicated his (later model) jack point plates were even labeled "jack". Then another person warned of impending doom by placing anything more than a stabilizing jack there while camping. It seemed to me that Airstream would have put similar plates in a more forward location if that was the intended funtion. I believe the thread stopped after Andy@Inland advised the six inch lift idea.

Pahaska - First, sorry to hear about your soft ground damage. I would have been beside myself with fury as I am sure you were. Second, does your owners manual say anything about raising the wheels?

Thanks,
Tom
More sad than fury. I did it to myself and could have avoided it with a little thought. Yes, it is on my Classic.

My owner's manual is in the trailer in the storage yard, so I'm not sure what it says on jacking. I had contacted Jim Parrett at the factory because InlandAndy keeps saying to jack at the axle plate. I figured that whatever the factory does is best.

My jack points are clearly labelled on the belly pan and the locations are indicated by a aluminum plate about 2 1/2" square on the belly pan attached at the jack point by a pop rivet. The two sides are not symmetrical ... the jack point on one side is a bit further back than on the other side.

Silvertwinkie, you can just look on the belly pan aft of the axles and easily see the jack points.
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Old 03-30-2004, 09:51 AM   #24
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Wow, John... sorry to hear about the mishap...

Roger
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Old 03-30-2004, 10:04 AM   #25
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Cool Sorry to hear

Pahaska
Sorry to hear of the damage to your Classic
I'll say this..Your bright, witty commentaries have been missed in your absences~

ciao
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Old 03-30-2004, 10:31 AM   #26
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Pahaska, I feel your pain

My coach is much older than yours but in very good condition other than this new damage.
Have you had a chance to get any estimates on the cost of repair? I am particularly interested in the cost of straightening the frame member. Replacing the belly pan panel is something I can do on my own, if it comes to that.
Thanks for sharing.

Rog
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Old 03-30-2004, 10:51 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rog0525
My coach is much older than yours but in very good condition other than this new damage.
Have you had a chance to get any estimates on the cost of repair? I am particularly interested in the cost of straightening the frame member. Replacing the belly pan panel is something I can do on my own, if it comes to that.
Thanks for sharing.

Rog
The dent isn't terribly bad and I'm undecided about having it repaired. I'm afraid all the tearing off of molding, etc. may be worse in the long run than just living with the dent.

I may try to hang the end of the trailer out over a ledge so that I can get a long lever on the frame part that is bent crooked. I think that with some leverage, I can pull it down vertical again.

There is a horizontal crease at the very bottom of the panel because of the upward impact and the area above the crease is gently dented in witthout any creasing. We're going to try using a suction cup to see if the gentle dent can be minimized a bit by pulling it out. If so, it will probably stay that way forever.
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Old 03-30-2004, 11:29 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pahaska
I may try to hang the end of the trailer out over a ledge so that I can get a long lever on the frame part that is bent crooked. I think that with some leverage, I can pull it down vertical again.
That sounds like a good plan. It would probably help if you heated the frame. Thanks for the idea.
I'm hanging onto the unlikely hope that the RV rep will admit to liability and am just in a holding pattern right now.

Rog
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Old 03-30-2004, 01:58 PM   #29
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John,

Very sorry to hear about the Classic. You know the labels you mention I thought were just for mounting the stabilizer jacks. I had no idea that you could jack up the coach from there.

Eric
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Old 03-30-2004, 08:59 PM   #30
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I had the same questions in regards to raising the unit to grease the bearing. Our unit does not have the attached riveted location plate & only has one sticker on the far rear cs. I e-mailed A/S tech & they findally sent me some photo's on where to place the jack. The location they picture was the frame where the shock absorber is fasten. Not any where close to the belly frame. I'm still not convinced it's the right area. I'll try to attach the pics if I can figure out how to load them with the new set-up.
Best,
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Old 03-30-2004, 09:23 PM   #31
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I am with Andy, at least on teh vintage trailers.
I did put a jack unde the frame section rearwwart from teh axles, where the red arrow idicates a jack position. It deformed the outside skin, and caused the trailer to creak and groan like U571 at 500 meters.
I immeditely backed off the jack, and could see the skin pop back into position. Lifting at the axle plates did not cause any problems at all.
Maybe newer trailers have real frames? Mine has a puny gauge frame, and bends and flexes already when making semi-tight turns.
I guess it would not take much of an effort to bend the rearmost frame section as shown in the pictures.
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Old 03-30-2004, 09:58 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uwe
It deformed the outside skin, and caused the trailer to creak and groan like U571 at 500 meters.
LOL!!!!
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Old 03-31-2004, 07:35 AM   #33
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Just received a reply from Airstream

This conflicts with the info provided by Inland Andy on the link I posted earlier and that surprises me. I'm sure that Andy's opinion is based on his many years of experience. I have never known him to provide incorrect information and there must be sound logic behind his opinion on this topic. Perhaps he will read this and share more of his wisdom with us.

Here's a copy of the email:

Roger All trailers are provided with a 3" aluminum pad to indicate the proper jack placement position. It is located on the frame rail behind the rear tires.
Airstream does not recommend placing the jack under the axle or axle mounting plate.

Thanks

Tim Maxwell

_____________________________________
Thank you,

Customer Service Representative
Airstream
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Old 03-31-2004, 07:55 AM   #34
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Trailer damage due to improper jacking

O.K , going to try to post a pic of the location A/S tech sent me via e-mail. We have no 3x3 pad attached under our unit & the location that this photo shows DOES not relate to the location I have seen on other units. I can't understand A/S confusing messages on this problem.
Best,
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Old 03-31-2004, 08:01 AM   #35
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It worked. the silver strip showing is the start of the wheel well. According to A/S & the way I understood their e-mail that the jcking point was under the bracket where the shock is attached. You can see that the bracket appears to be about 1" wide. I really aim concerned raising the unit with only that much area.Most jacking locations I've seen is right behind that silver strip, however iI'm not sure of what's under the skin & if it's strong enough to raise the unit.
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Old 03-31-2004, 10:26 AM   #36
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Thumbs up Just got good news

The RV rep showed up shortly after my last post. He did not admit to any liability but he was very courteous and agreed to tow it back into the shop to be repaired at no charge.
I guess you won't be seeing me on Judge Judy's show.

Rog
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Old 03-31-2004, 02:42 PM   #37
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I discovered that my trailer has added in jack plates. What a bonus!
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Old 03-31-2004, 04:20 PM   #38
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Rog...shocked you didn't give them this (sorry to shamelessly steal!):

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Old 03-31-2004, 05:02 PM   #39
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LOL Eric. As it turned out I didn't need my shootin' iron after all.
The guy was quite nice and the trailer is repaired and back home already. Not quite as good as new but good enough. I don't know what kind of tools they used but the whole job only took about 2 hours.
You can bet I'll be asking about their jacking methods before I ever leave the trailer in an RV shop again.
Hopefully they learned somthing from this experience also.

Rog
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Old 03-31-2004, 05:35 PM   #40
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