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Old 01-08-2016, 01:25 PM   #15
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1970 18' Caravel
Lexington , Massachusetts
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Rvb,

I just disassembled and reassembled the entire lock mechanism, so I'm 100% sure the lock is sufficiently lubricated.

I'm guessing my problem has something to do with the hinge or gasket.
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Old 01-08-2016, 03:12 PM   #16
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1971 25' Tradewind
1993 34' Excella
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Estancia , New Mexico
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Hi Lumatic,

I just read your latest post about the striker bolt having a grove. I believe it does. Where the angled side and flat side meet is rounded a little. I thought it was supposed to look that way. How do I fix this? I have a mounted grinder that I could grind the angled part until the rounded edge is gone.
The groove is from wear and is not supposed to be there. Good chance this is part of your problem. I filled the groove on mine with epoxy filler. It will help for a while but is not a permanent fix. Also check there is no excessive wear on the striker plate where the deadbolt makes initial contact. Both these areas can look like they are supposed to be there but are not. It is easy to replace the striker plate. Not sure about grinding. Post pictures!
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Old 01-08-2016, 08:07 PM   #17
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1973 31' Sovereign
Middletown , California
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When the door is closed and latched can you push it closed any farther by leaning into it? When you release the latch when it is closed does the door "pop" open like something is pushing on it? Do you have a screen door? Careful observation is the key here. You might be compressing or bending something when closing the door. I had to cut down the spring in the screen door latch to get my 1973 door to work right. Keeping every moving part lubed is important for my door to work. Leland
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Old 01-09-2016, 12:10 PM   #18
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1977 31' Sovereign
Lynnwood , Washington
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When you "repaired" the door lock, what did you repair?? What was wrong with it?? Did you replace the spring for the dead bolt??

Tom
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Old 01-11-2016, 10:33 AM   #19
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1970 18' Caravel
Lexington , Massachusetts
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When the door is closed and latched can you push it closed any farther by leaning into it? When you release the latch when it is closed does the door "pop" open like something is pushing on it? Do you have a screen door? Careful observation is the key here. You might be compressing or bending something when closing the door. I had to cut down the spring in the screen door latch to get my 1973 door to work right. Keeping every moving part lubed is important for my door to work. Leland
Hi Ijustlee,

Yes, when I open the door it makes a "pop" noise. It's as if I'm releasing some built up tension. I do have a screen door. Also, the bottom right corner of the main door scraps on the bottom when I close it. My screen door doesn't have a latch, it has a little roller thing that goes over a striker plate to keep it in place.

The screen door is a little difficult to lock as well. I need to pull it in order to close it.

I showed my cousin, who is a structural engineer, and he said the side of the frame that the striker plate is on is not lined up correctly. It is in a little bit and needs to be pushed out. He suggested using a car jack and a 2 x 4 in order to move it in small increments until it closes smoothly. I checked out the logistics of this and once I take out the 3 screws holding the door frame down, the frame will be free and able to be moved. I'm planning on trying this technique this week. I will let everyone know how it turns out.

Attached is a picture of the door latch before I repaired it. The striker spring is not to stiff, I only installed one instead of the 2 that was originally installed. I didn't want to put too much pressure on the door latch components, considering the door latch parts of are such poor quality.

Why no one has designed a door latch of identical size that is made out of steel or some other high quality metal instead of the weak cast aluminum I'll never know.
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Old 01-11-2016, 12:29 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by Streamy1985 View Post


I showed my cousin, who is a structural engineer, and he said the side of the frame that the striker plate is on is not lined up correctly. It is in a little bit and needs to be pushed out. He suggested using a car jack and a 2 x 4 in order to move it in small increments until it closes smoothly. I checked out the logistics of this and once I take out the 3 screws holding the door frame down, the frame will be free and able to be moved. I'm planning on trying this technique this week. I will let everyone know how it turns out.
.
Problems like this can be, but are not necessarily, related to problems with running gear i.e. bad axles and/or the trailer not being level.
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Old 01-11-2016, 02:27 PM   #21
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1971 21' Globetrotter
Arvada , Colorado
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Streamy1985 View Post

I showed my cousin, who is a structural engineer, and he said the side of the frame that the striker plate is on is not lined up correctly. It is in a little bit and needs to be pushed out. He suggested using a car jack and a 2 x 4 in order to move it in small increments until it closes smoothly.
You want to be carefull doing this as your door frame is cast and will break very easily. I fixed my KT lock by selling it and changing it out with a different style. See my thread below as to how I did it starting at post 250. My door frame cracks are on post 231
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Old 01-12-2016, 01:58 AM   #22
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1973 31' Sovereign
Middletown , California
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Something is putting tension on the door causing it to "pop" open when the latch is released. Compressing the door seals is what should be causing this but it should be just a slight amount. What is it that is causing too much tension? Bending the frame is a risky thing and should be a last resort. Maybe you could shim the hinge side, or trim the weatherstripping, or shim out the striker? I try to avoid making non reversible changes if I can. Leland
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Old 01-12-2016, 07:41 AM   #23
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The door can be slightly re contoured by removing the inner skin
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