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Old 10-17-2005, 03:32 PM   #15
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To replace the back 4 ft, fabricating everything from new steel, for $1100 CD sounds good to me.
As with anything, workmanship is important. If they do a good job, chip the welds, make it nice, it's worth it. If they do a crappy job it's no bargain.
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Old 10-17-2005, 07:44 PM   #16
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That's a little over $930 US.....really good deal, if you ask me, considering the time, materials and headache involved. Of course, like Mark said, provided the workmanship is worth a darn.

Frederic
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Old 11-25-2005, 07:40 PM   #17
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I got the trailer back....finally (2 months to complete) and he did a decent job of the welding. He replaced everything from the wheel well back and included new outriggers. My only complaint is that he said it would likely be a slightly heavier gauge of steel ...when infact it was a slightly lighter gauge of steel. However, it appears very sound and sturdy - so I'm happy with it.

However now it is winter and I've got to replace the floor in the snow
By the way, has anyone ever tried to use std polish techniques in sub zero weather? I wouldn't mind trying to get this trailer polished over the winter.

thanks in advance,

Julison
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Old 11-25-2005, 11:13 PM   #18
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Glad to hear you got it back. Hopefully the lighter steel won't be an issue. A lot of the strength comes from the complete unit assembly, so hopefully everything else will make up for it when it's all put together.

Putting the floor back in isn't nearly as bad as taking it out was! You're on the home stretch now.
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Old 11-26-2005, 07:52 AM   #19
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Julison,
What do you mean by "lighter" gauge steel? If you mean a smaller number 14 as opposed to 16 that would be correct, the thicker the steel the smaller the number, if it mics out thinner I would want to know why, and what type of steel.

Aaron
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Old 11-26-2005, 08:12 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wahoonc
Julison,
What do you mean by "lighter" gauge steel? If you mean a smaller number 14 as opposed to 16 that would be correct, the thicker the steel the smaller the number, if it mics out thinner I would want to know why, and what type of steel.

Aaron
I didn't use a gauge to measure it exactly.....but it appears to be a thinner gauge (higher #). The garage said that it just looks thinner because of the rust on the surface of the existing frame. mmmm Maybe, if it is thinner, it is only slightly so. I'll snap a couple of pics later today maybe.
AS for the type of steel... I no sure. It's not galvanized for sure. I've just received some POR 15 to seal it up.

Julison
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Old 11-26-2005, 10:26 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Julison
I didn't use a gauge to measure it exactly.....but it appears to be a thinner gauge (higher #). The garage said that it just looks thinner because of the rust on the surface of the existing frame. mmmm Maybe, if it is thinner, it is only slightly so. I'll snap a couple of pics later today maybe.
AS for the type of steel... I no sure. It's not galvanized for sure. I've just received some POR 15 to seal it up.

Julison
The rust making it look thicker makes sense also coats of paint, though from what I have seen of painted rv frames I find that a bit hard to believe POR-15 is the only way to go, we just finished the frame on a 57 Chevy with that stuff, make sure you don't get too much on you...it has to wear off

Aaron
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Old 11-26-2005, 12:05 PM   #22
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Where are you located?

If you are anywhere Minneapolis MN give me a call. 612 968 5248
I've welded/repaired a couple of AS frames now and you will like my prices very much.
Jerry
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Old 11-26-2005, 12:07 PM   #23
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Julison,

what snowy part of Canada are you in?


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Old 11-29-2005, 01:55 AM   #24
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Quote:
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Julison,

what snowy part of Canada are you in?


Sergei
Hi Sergei,

I'm in Kanata, Ontario....just outside of Ottawa.

Julsion
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