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Old 04-30-2011, 09:23 AM   #15
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2006 25' Safari FB SE
St. Cloud , Minnesota
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How not to check out the air conditioner: Only have a standard 3-prong house outlet? Don't use an adapter to plug in and run the AC. I visited to consider purchase of a pretty but sad Overlander once. Owner said he couldn't figure out why he'd replaced the AC twice. Yes, he had it plugged in to a standard house outlet (15 amp) with about 50 feet of extension cord -- double damned at the altar of insufficient amps and browned out voltage.

The trailer's power cord has a 30 amp plug. That's plenty of amperage to get the AC running. 20 amps probably would do it if you don't run the microwave or hair dryer at the same time. But 15 amps will subject the compressor to strain at startup and shorten its life. The RV dealer should have a 30 amp outlet and be able to show you the AC running.

With stabilizers down, stand on the rear bumper and jump up and down lightly. Have a companion look closely at the bumper-shell junction. You want to have no movement there. If there is movement, try to figure out what better floor inspection will let you get to the perimeter from inside the coach.

Be wary of cosmetic gussying up. "They all leak." (references too numerous to mention) There is a problem if there is any musty or off smell inside. BTW - that pretty Overlander? I'm allergic to black mold and I could hardly breathe after 5 minutes inside. It had huge floor rot issues under the front window, in the battery compartment and at the rear bumper.


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Old 04-30-2011, 10:34 AM   #16
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1975 25' Tradewind
Dewey , Arizona
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Since this an International you have a service door on the rear. Take a good look inside of this area at the condition of the floor. Where the floor and the shell come together is critical for preventing rear end separation. It is often rotted by water that flows in from the bumper area.

Since this is a 73 and it is sitting low, my guess is that the axles do not have much, if any spring left. I would consider new axles in my budget.



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