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Old 02-03-2018, 01:06 PM   #501
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xplore View Post
Update:

I setup the hitch for my new F-150 today and the tailgate does not clear the jack on my 2018 23FB. I didn't think it would but wanted to report back. Very close, needs another inch or so.



3.5 F-150 + 23FB = A great combo. Love this setup.


Do you think it will clear if you turn the jack head 90 degrees?
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Old 02-03-2018, 02:37 PM   #502
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Do you think it will clear if you turn the jack head 90 degrees?
Possibly, it starts to make contact about here
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Old 02-03-2018, 05:46 PM   #503
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Thanks. I haven’t hitched up yet with the new f150.
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Old 02-03-2018, 09:31 PM   #504
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Installing a new ProPride hitch system will most likely be the most “overkill engineering “ way to fix that little issue. That’s how I solved my interference with the jack motor on ours...[emoji56][emoji3][emoji3]

But yeah, see if turning the jack motor 90 degrees will do it. Much less cost...
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Old 02-03-2018, 09:49 PM   #505
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I wonder if the air ride hitch would help with clearance.... no propride in my future
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Old 02-03-2018, 11:36 PM   #506
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Anything that adds length to the hitch will help. ProPride is just my silly example...
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Multiple Yaesu Ham Radios inside and many antennae sprouting from roof, ProPride hitch, Prodigy P2 controller.
2012 shortbed CrewMax 4x4 Toyota Tacoma TV with more antennae on it.
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Old 02-04-2018, 03:32 AM   #507
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmkrum View Post
Anything that adds length to the hitch will help. ProPride is just my silly example...
Yes, Some shanks extend out more than others.

Something just occurred to me. My shank has two setting. I've always used the inside hole. The other hole may give enough clearance.

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Old 02-04-2018, 04:55 AM   #508
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Chesapeake , Virginia
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Sill step safety hack

Attachment 303506
For extra visibility in low light.
I use 3m yellow electrical tape on my steps.
I easily replace it when it gets dirty.
Once you try it,you will never go back.
(Sorry about sideways pic,but you get the idea).
Happy and safe camping!
Tom
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Old 02-04-2018, 05:14 AM   #509
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Winter usage of furnace at house

Since,I do not winterize my 23 fb at my home in Virginia. I use my furnace through cold weather.
I purchased (2) spare 30 lb Worthington
propane tanks. This comes in very handy.
I refill at U haul. They are open 7 days a week and priced right.
In temps below 10 degrees I simply ran furnace. Opened shower door and bathroom door. I also turn on electric water heater.
Since I don’t use city water nor outside shower,those legs are empty.
If very cold,I set furnace at 65 ,and (1) tank
run 3-4 days.
I use my fresh water tank and refill from house.
I use my airstream as an extended part of my ranch for relaxing and just a getaway.
I use all facilities in the coach and dump tanks as needed at local camp.
Happy Airstreaming
Tom
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Old 02-04-2018, 05:56 AM   #510
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Tom, do you camp a lot in the winter? I'm just curious why you don't winterize. It doesn't take long to blow the lines out, and run in some RV antifreeze. I keep a furnace running at our farm house, and have been contemplating winterizing it. I go up every couple of weeks for a few nights. It seems possibly more cost effective to winterize than run the furnace. If you are using it a lot though, I guess it isn't worth the hassle.
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Old 02-04-2018, 06:18 AM   #511
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Getting away
Yes I do camp on weekends in the winter.
I like to bike ride on pretty sundays.
So I camp anytime I can.
We have been through a very cold January
here in Virginia. So I have not camped since December adventure to Charleston,Jekyll island and the Villages.
I have Tommy Bahama wedding in Charleston Feb 14th.
I plan on using my airstream from one adventure to another and I like it ready for action.
Plus the go to hang out at the ranch.
I’m also working all systems hard while I’m in warranty.
I have trip to Rockies via JC
in May planned.
I will only use factory service center for my maintenance,so I just insert them in my yearly adventure.
Thank you for asking.
Tom
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Old 02-04-2018, 10:15 AM   #512
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Tom - the visibility would help, but when we took possession of the coach, there was a welcome pack that included a set of wrap around step pads. They provide a firm non-slip surface on the steps that we have become quite happy to use. We added a thick loop style plastic mat for the surface outside to remove moisture and debris from our shoes. Both the pads and the matt help to keep the coach floor reasonably clean. For visibility at entry and exit, we use a very bright 1000 lumen LED flashlight. Has many uses and once you have gone there, you never go back. Hope to meet you down the road with a smile. Pat
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Old 02-04-2018, 11:46 AM   #513
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xplore View Post
Update:
I setup the hitch for my new F-150 today and the tailgate does not clear the jack on my 2018 23FB. I didn't think it would but wanted to report back. Very close, needs another inch or so.

3.5 F-150 + 23FB = A great combo. Love this setup.
Have a 2014 F150. Had the same problem with our Casita travel trailer - tailgate would not open fully when hooked to Casita. Installed a Jack-E-Up to trailer tongue. Allows jack to be removed once trailer is hooked to tv. Allows tailgate to be opened fully when trailer is hooked to tv. To unhook from tv put jack back in and operate jack like normal.

Casita had manual jack. 23FB has electric. Will need to add connectors to disconnect jack from battery to remove jack with Jack-E-Up.

Another option is hitch extension. Equalizer says they make a 6" extension. They said they do not recommend anything longer than 6".

Has anyone tried a Jack-E-Up or Equalizer with 6" extension on the 23FB and newer F150 in order to get tailgate to open fully?

Sorry, can't get pic of Jack-E-Up on Casita to post.
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Old 02-05-2018, 05:46 AM   #514
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Muriel 1 View Post
Getting away
Yes I do camp on weekends in the winter.
I like to bike ride on pretty sundays.
So I camp anytime I can.
We have been through a very cold January
here in Virginia. So I have not camped since December adventure to Charleston,Jekyll island and the Villages.
I have Tommy Bahama wedding in Charleston Feb 14th.
I plan on using my airstream from one adventure to another and I like it ready for action.
Plus the go to hang out at the ranch.
I’m also working all systems hard while I’m in warranty.
I have trip to Rockies via JC
in May planned.
I will only use factory service center for my maintenance,so I just insert them in my yearly adventure.
Thank you for asking.
Tom
I'm totally jealous. I wish we could use ours more. It's not the weather holding us back though. Its work.. Ha! I'll be happy when I'm not looking at "vacation days" any longer. It'd be tough to get to a warm spot from here, on just a weekend outing.
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Old 02-05-2018, 05:38 PM   #515
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Quote:
Originally Posted by earthdog View Post
Sorry, can't get pic of Jack-E-Up on Casita to post.
Ok, here is a pic of the Jack-E-Up on the Casita with manual jack. After you hook up the trailer to the tow vehicle, turn the jack stem and pull the jack out of the Jack-E-Up and stow the jack in the back of the tow vehicle or elsewhere and it is out of the way of the tailgate. One would have to add a disconnect to the wiring to disconnect the electric wires from the battery to pull the stem and head out and out of the way. Simply insert the jack back into the Jack-E-Up and reconnect the electric and the jack is ready to go again.

Has anybody tried this with a 23FB and an F150?
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Old 02-05-2018, 09:52 PM   #516
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The 23FB forum

I have the F150 with my 25 and changed equalizer shank for longer one. Clears tailgate fine and no noticeable change in towing
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Old 02-06-2018, 10:03 AM   #517
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Can anyone post hitch weights they have seen when the trailer is near full gvwr?
The spec on the site shows a base weight of 480lb and a tongue weight of 467lb or just about 10 percent. When loaded does this ratio remain more or less true? At 6000lb is the tongue weight about 600? I am looking at getting a 23FB but my tow vehicle has a reated hitch weight of 640lb.

Experience appreciated!
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Old 02-06-2018, 12:19 PM   #518
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Quote:
Originally Posted by earthdog View Post
Ok, here is a pic of the Jack-E-Up on the Casita with manual jack. After you hook up the trailer to the tow vehicle, turn the jack stem and pull the jack out of the Jack-E-Up and stow the jack in the back of the tow vehicle or elsewhere and it is out of the way of the tailgate. One would have to add a disconnect to the wiring to disconnect the electric wires from the battery to pull the stem and head out and out of the way. Simply insert the jack back into the Jack-E-Up and reconnect the electric and the jack is ready to go again.

Has anybody tried this with a 23FB and an F150?


No, and you would also have to remove the “mushroom “ pad from the jack shaft. It looks like it would work. If I had the clearance problem it would look like a better solution than extending your connection for the ball out further. Moving the ball out starts to get a lot of torque and moment changes coming into the towing and trailer control equation.
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Old 02-06-2018, 02:00 PM   #519
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Quote:
Originally Posted by urban View Post
-- snip --looking at getting a 23FB but my tow vehicle has a reated hitch weight of 640lb.
You need to be carefull in loading your coach. A 640# capacity is better than our 600, but it is not a slam dunk. A WDH will weigh about 80#s which adds to that 467#s. Any water in the fresh tank is additive as well.

Step one - if at all possible, establish if your 640 is a receiver capacity or a chassis capacity. If the issue is the receiver, you can strengthen it or replace with a stronger aftermarket unit. If it a chassis limitation you will have to manage the tongue weight through loading.

Step two - you have noticed that 600 is 10% of the max gross, so you are in the door on a stable rig. Worth checking at the scales, but likely going to be good.

Step three - there is a lot of space under the bed. Do not use it for heavy items. Store light weight bulky items like chairs, empty water jugs and your Cheetos under the bed. Store your heavy items over the wheels.

Step four - you can move weight from the rear axle of the tow vehicle to the front axle in two ways. The first is how you load your tow vehicle. Do not place any heavy items behind the rear axle. Place light items there. Locate and secure heavy items between the axles. The second is with your weight transfer hitch. The WDH can and will leverage weight to the tow vehicle front axle and some to the back axle of the trailer as well. Balancing the load out is an itterative process. Scales are your friend.

Step five - do not be convinced that transfering tongue weight to another axle is removing it. The mass is still there and the moment of that mass will have a negative effect in an excursion event. So in loading, less mass in the ends is better than more as long as the tongue weight minimums are maintained for stability. Understand that static mass (tongue and gross weight) is used to project the dynamic forces that will result from your travel. You can reduce the maximum forces your rig will see if you travel and do transitions at a slower rate of speed.

Good luck with your investigation. Hope to meet you down the road with a smile. Pat
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Old 02-06-2018, 03:37 PM   #520
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23 fb well balanced platform

Quick story about the balance of 23 fb.
First trip in Muriel was the Army/Navy football game in Baltimore.
After enjoying the game. I broke camp at Capitol rv Park Millersburg Md.
Drove about 50 miles over the bay bridge to the eastern shore on they way home to Virginia. To my horror,I realized I left my glass block night light on the bathroom
counter. Visions of cracked toilet,broken shower door appeared in my mind!
Pulled over at the 7-11 and jumped in coach to see the damage to my new serenity.
And Lo! The glass block had only moved about an inch from its proper place!!!!!
Just wanted to share a happy happy ending.
Tom
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