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Old 07-28-2019, 12:21 PM   #1331
3rd one is the charm?
 
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Originally Posted by Wolfwhistle View Post
I see a lot of work, but think it would make the trailer work very well for us.

Thoughts?
Clint
Would be interested in seeing whatever you do. I've seen several iterations of mods to the dinette, from removing it and just having a sofa and portable tray table, to leaving stock but with a smaller table top, one gal tore it all out and put in a small work desk, one half of dinette for a seat, wall-mounted computer screen (she works and full-times.) Lots of good idea. On mine, I was going to just try a smaller top and forego that sleeping area.


Ultimately, my solution was to sell it and get a 23d But man, I miss that queen and the bathroom, believe me. Always tradeoffs.
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Old 07-28-2019, 12:37 PM   #1332
3rd one is the charm?
 
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Originally Posted by Rob Edgerton View Post
Question for the group. Installed the PD4655 about a year ago but not the new fuse block because the battery leads are too short. Is there any way to install the pendant without using the new fuse block?
Yes like Pat said. Just plug it in on the left side of the PD4655. Remove the cover and you'll see where.

As a side note, there is enough cable to use with the new boards (I've done this three times now :-) ) After removing the unit, remove the nut on the strain relief, reach behind and pull the strain relief and wire out through through the back of the hole, and then pull forward underneath into the vacated space where the old converter/charger was, so you can see and loosen the strain relief screws. Pull another couple inches of wire through the relief, retighten screws, reinstall relief, there will now be enough wire to use the new board. My last two I've done (plus one for a friend just the other day) didn't use the pendant, so I wanted to have the button to manually put in Bulk mode which of course needs either the new board, or the pendant.

Since yours is already installed, just adding the pendant is the easy way to go.
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Old 07-28-2019, 01:09 PM   #1333
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Clint - I have talked with Ultimate Airstream about changing our 23FB dinette area to an L-shaped configuration. They sent me pictures of two dinette configurations, which I am sharing here. The sofa configuration is in a 23FB.

My wife and I think twin beds would be a perfect configuration for the 23FB. I’ve included a graphic that I pieced together of our overall vision. We camp mostly with just the two of us.
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Old 07-28-2019, 01:33 PM   #1334
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Outstanding Simrunner! That dinette mod is unbelievable.

Thank you for sharing.
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Old 07-28-2019, 01:41 PM   #1335
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Originally Posted by leedav View Post
The shunt is a resistor. It allows the monitor, which is basically a voltmeter, to measure the current flowing in and out of the battery. It's small resistance doesn't affect the power usage. Since voltage=current times resistance, the meter can determine by reading the voltage across the shunt how much current is being drawn, and by keeping track of that over time, how much power remains in the batteries. A battery meter therefore will only work with a shunt.
Thank You Now I get it. My old AS had a amp meter in it and that's what I watched. John
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Old 07-28-2019, 03:18 PM   #1336
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Why would the tow vehicle charging or discharging through the umbilical mislead the meter? Doesn't the umbilical go the negative bus? Whatever charge goes to and from the battery has to pass through the ground cables. At least as far as charge is concerned, maybe not so much for voltage.
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Something to keep in mind when watching 'float' vs 'absorption' vs 'bulk,' and what the battery voltage reads at any given moment, etc...is that this is not like a mechanical connection with absolutes. It's actually a very fluid and flexible process. The monitor should measure amps 'out' at any given moment quite accurately, as well as what the battery voltage is at any given moment...but keep in mind that even that can be impacted by how long since it's been 'offline' from the charger, etc. My tow vehicle, I discovered during this process, provides current through the umbilical even if the car is turned off...which would totally mislead the readings from my Victron Monitor as far as amps being used, and voltage in the trailer battery. Other vehicles only provide power through the cord if the car is running, or ignition is 'on', and I've heard some only if the car is in "D". So depending on all that you might need to unplug from umbilical if stopped for the night and want to monitor batteries. Just remember to plug back in before leaving!

If you're camping without shore power, yes, the voltage will be pretty accurate as well. But things like 'time to discharge' on the Victron are nothing more than guesses, at a specific moment in time, so don't get caught up in that. Also, the PD4655 is always in a 'dance' with the batteries, trying to figure out how charged they are, what draws there are, and what voltage and current it needs to provide them with, at any moment in time. All that bounces around constantly so don't worry about instantaneous readings or charger outputs at any given moment. Just let it do its thing, and let the new monitor help you keep an eye on all of it.
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Old 07-28-2019, 08:25 PM   #1337
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Oh. I get it. The meter sees the current from the TV as coming from the trailer battery.
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Old 07-29-2019, 05:15 AM   #1338
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The 23d thread is totally addictive (and humbling) - with the most knowledgeable, unselfish members you will ever meet. Just awesome!
Totally agree! Sometimes I feel like I’m trying to read a foreign publication. Although you guys have given the 23D thread a run for its money the last few pages here. Whew.. I think I know my trailer, then I read about what you guys are doing. Agh!
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Old 07-29-2019, 06:29 AM   #1339
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Originally Posted by pcskier View Post
John, congrats on the upgrade. She shunt is if you wanted to install a more robust dedicated battery monitor such as the Victron that Leedav used. It accurately will display battery voltage like the OEM systems monitor on the panel does, but also allows for an accurate reading (because of the shunt) of amps being used and some other metrics, which is helpful for battery management when boondocking or non-hookup campsites. (No shore power hookup). All negative loads go through the shunt to accomplish this.
Definitely not required, but a 'nice to have'.

Many of us have added in conjunction with a solar installation. I did, because it's helpful to see the 'net amps' flowing to or from the battery based on various power draws and solar production input. If the meter shows a net of 0 amps...the sun is keeping your batteries at par. If negative...you're using less than you're producing, and if positive...your producing more than you're using. Just sort of a window to know what is happening overall, with an eye to conserving battery power while not hooked up to shore power.
Thanks
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Old 07-29-2019, 06:43 AM   #1340
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The 23d thread is totally addictive (and humbling) - with the most knowledgeable, unselfish members you will ever meet. Just awesome!
Bruce,
Thanks for the 23D Plug! How’s the new 23 GT working out?
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Old 07-29-2019, 06:45 AM   #1341
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51 - you do not need the shunt/monitor upgrade if your use is mostly FHU park stays. If you use the coach for mostly dry camping, you may find the more precise measurement of the BM helpful. Most folks install a BM as part of an electrical upgrade like solar as PC posted above.

But in any case, verify you have fresh un-wounded batteries in your bank. Often a new coach is towed to the dealer and the batteries are allowed to be pulled down by the parasitic loads and incidental use to a state of charge that kills a cell or two. Folks find the bank to perform poorly upon initial pickup.

Have Interstate check your batteries and replace them under warranty if necessary. Then never allow the bank to discharge below 12.2 Volts. That is a bit touchy as it required the bank to rest under no load or charge to get an accurate reading. However, close is really good enough.

Disconnect the batteries when in storage. Parasitic loads (LPG detector, lights left on, standby electronics) continue to pull power even in the store mode (use/store switch). Some folks add a disconnect switch to make the process easier.

Best to use what you have and learn what you want before starting major projects. Enjoy the new coach. It's well featured and many of us are trying to catch up. Hope to see you and the shiny down the road. Pat
The reason I ask is that when I worked for Ma Bell I built and maintained -48vdc battery banks for back up power if commercial power failed. There was a shunt in that system but obviously on the + side. Phone system runs on negative. On my old AS I had a amp meter which for it's age was the in thing, but worked. Most of my hookups are with power.

One of the first things I did was check out the batteries for bad cells. All good but then after 3 weeks of sitting disconnected I noticed the voltage was down to 11.9. So I charged them and checked cells again and all's OK. Then I put my amp meter in line and found it has static draw. So to remedy that I put a bar disconnect switch on the negative side of the batteries.

Now when it's disconnected and stored all I do is open the battery box the throw the switch. I was surprised at how much power it drew while sitting. Not like the old trailer.

Thanks again for all the info. John
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Old 07-29-2019, 07:16 AM   #1342
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Thanks pcskier, I get it now. I think mine was originally a 2awg but it’s long gone. I now use #2/0 batt to shunt to + bus. 3000 watt Inverter too. Batteries are now inside. So wire runs are very short. I literally removed it all yesterday starting front twin conversion. It will be a DIYer 23FBT. I get to redo all the arrangement of electrical parts and pieces. Yea!
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Old 07-29-2019, 09:40 AM   #1343
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We're in business now. PD shifted to 13.2. A little later than the spec, but acceptable. Interstate provided a new battery. Charging system overhaul complete!
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Old 07-29-2019, 09:47 AM   #1344
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Bruce,
Thanks for the 23D Plug! How’s the new 23 GT working out?
Ronnie, we are heading to Colonial this Thursday for orientation. We choose the Twin bed with Natural Elm/London Gray. We miss the 23CB dinette/lounge but the twins, decor, and bigger bathroom are right up our alley.
Can’t wait!
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