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Old 07-28-2019, 07:15 AM   #1317
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On his trailer, Airstream used separate cables from the batteries, one set to the 12V house (6ga) and one set to the inverter (4ga). If trailer was not equipped with factory inverter, there would have only been the one set, 12V house.

So instead of just interrupting one set of cables from the batteries with the shunt, he had two sets to interrupt...the inverter and house cables. Needed to include both cables from the batteries to the shunt, in order to have enough wire capacity to carry both house loads and inverter load. Then continue the original two wires from load side, one to the inverter, the other to house. So inverter draw and house draw will flow through the shunt.

On my install, I removed the 6ga and 4ga pairs when I did my 6V battery conversion, and went with 2ga wire from battery to the trailer; then 4ga from load side of shunt to inverter, and 6ga from load side of shunt to house 12v. The 2ga was installed so that I had enough capacity to carry both the house and inverter loads on one strand of cable. Doing it Leedav's way is easier and perfectly fine, but I decided to go a bit cleaner with less wires from the batts. Especially since I installed a switch that gives me four options: battery off, house only, inverter only, or both house and inverter. The second switch is to isolate solar panels from the solar charger.
Attachment 347776
Attachment 347777
OK Please bare with me as I went from a 1975 29' to this new 2019 23FB and I've been following this thread but I'm not sure I understand what the shunt is for or does. Do or should I put one in on my coach? Thanks John
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Old 07-28-2019, 07:21 AM   #1318
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The 23FB forum

The shunt is a resistor. It allows the monitor, which is basically a voltmeter, to measure the current flowing in and out of the battery. It's small resistance doesn't affect the power usage. Since voltage=current times resistance, the meter can determine by reading the voltage across the shunt how much current is being drawn, and by keeping track of that over time, how much power remains in the batteries. A battery meter therefore will only work with a shunt.
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Old 07-28-2019, 08:42 AM   #1319
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Now thinking about closet shelves. From the battery meter exercise I now know that the closet walls are 33/64 thick, including the paper on each side. Click image for larger version

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Old 07-28-2019, 10:04 AM   #1320
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Originally Posted by 51hunter View Post
OK Please bare with me as I went from a 1975 29' to this new 2019 23FB and I've been following this thread but I'm not sure I understand what the shunt is for or does. Do or should I put one in on my coach? Thanks John
John, congrats on the upgrade. She shunt is if you wanted to install a more robust dedicated battery monitor such as the Victron that Leedav used. It accurately will display battery voltage like the OEM systems monitor on the panel does, but also allows for an accurate reading (because of the shunt) of amps being used and some other metrics, which is helpful for battery management when boondocking or non-hookup campsites. (No shore power hookup). All negative loads go through the shunt to accomplish this.
Definitely not required, but a 'nice to have'.

Many of us have added in conjunction with a solar installation. I did, because it's helpful to see the 'net amps' flowing to or from the battery based on various power draws and solar production input. If the meter shows a net of 0 amps...the sun is keeping your batteries at par. If negative...you're using less than you're producing, and if positive...your producing more than you're using. Just sort of a window to know what is happening overall, with an eye to conserving battery power while not hooked up to shore power.
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Old 07-28-2019, 10:12 AM   #1321
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Now thinking about closet shelves. From the battery meter exercise I now know that the closet walls are 33/64 thick, including the paper on each side.
Read through the 23d thread as well. You'll be thinking about a lot more than just closet shelves, I promise you that!
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Old 07-28-2019, 10:21 AM   #1322
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Read through the 23d thread as well. You'll be thinking about a lot more than just closet shelves, I promise you that!


I'll try to hold off.... My track record so far is not good.
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Old 07-28-2019, 10:26 AM   #1323
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The 23d thread is totally addictive (and humbling) - with the most knowledgeable, unselfish members you will ever meet. Just awesome!
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Old 07-28-2019, 10:27 AM   #1324
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Adopting the motto, "build it, use it, change it". I really don't like what I did in place of the dinette (23FB has the huge wheelwell to deal with for our non-regular thread visitors).

Mine is a 2013, so the dinette has benches of formed plywood facing each other and a wall mounted table top that swings down (extension leg) to allow a bed to be made there. It would be for kids or maybe one adult.

I loved the huge countertop that I made and sitting there with the great view. But, there is simply not enough space for the office chairs when more than myself is using the space. So, it is all gone.

I thought about putting the original bench seats back but cutting them down and going to a small top and possibly getting the newer type top support. Pro would be the added clearance to the fridge door, but it would only sit 2, and maybe a kid or two. Really no different that what it would be not cut down.


I've thought about building a dinette seat along the wheel well top and table in front. I would be sitting looking at the kitchen / stove / fridge, etc. But, 4 could sit there and it would make a nice possibly, full size bed. The wheel well box, by the way it 80" long.

Another option would be a jack knife sofa bed. My concern there is most only go up to 72" long. and typically 43" or so wide.

If I build that long bench seat, that would require cushions to be made to do it right.

Another modification that I will probably make is to replace the east-west short queen with twin beds. I see a lot of work, but think it would make the trailer work very well for us.

Thoughts?
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Old 07-28-2019, 10:46 AM   #1325
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So I just installed the jumpers that allow me to check the levels in my battery, because for some reason airstream gives you a little short ones that don't let you open the caps. Both batteries have a bad cell at the end, which is probably contributing to my issues. Good news is the pd4655 just arrived


Question for the group. Installed the PD4655 about a year ago but not the new fuse block because the battery leads are too short. Is there any way to install the pendant without using the new fuse block?
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Old 07-28-2019, 10:52 AM   #1326
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51 - you do not need the shunt/monitor upgrade if your use is mostly FHU park stays. If you use the coach for mostly dry camping, you may find the more precise measurement of the BM helpful. Most folks install a BM as part of an electrical upgrade like solar as PC posted above.

But in any case, verify you have fresh un-wounded batteries in your bank. Often a new coach is towed to the dealer and the batteries are allowed to be pulled down by the parasitic loads and incidental use to a state of charge that kills a cell or two. Folks find the bank to perform poorly upon initial pickup.

Have Interstate check your batteries and replace them under warranty if necessary. Then never allow the bank to discharge below 12.2 Volts. That is a bit touchy as it required the bank to rest under no load or charge to get an accurate reading. However, close is really good enough.

Disconnect the batteries when in storage. Parasitic loads (LPG detector, lights left on, standby electronics) continue to pull power even in the store mode (use/store switch). Some folks add a disconnect switch to make the process easier.

Best to use what you have and learn what you want before starting major projects. Enjoy the new coach. It's well featured and many of us are trying to catch up. Hope to see you and the shiny down the road. Pat
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Old 07-28-2019, 10:57 AM   #1327
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Clint, you might have seen this twin conversion already but just in case you havent, check this out.

https://youtu.be/jsIMXDV8TZE
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Old 07-28-2019, 10:58 AM   #1328
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-- snip --Question for the group. Is there any way to install the pendant without using the new fuse block?
Believe the pendent plugs into the main unit. Call Best Converter for instructions if it is not clear from looking. Note, the OEM fuse board has better wire clamps, so it is best to install the unit as you did.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Clint - you need a 27! The dinette is a fact of the layout. Best for the space. You can change it, but improvement really takes a different trailer. Twins should make the sleeping area a bit better space, but have their disadvantages.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Nice to see everyone making functional changes. Keep up the good work. Pat
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Old 07-28-2019, 11:00 AM   #1329
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The 23d thread is totally addictive (and humbling) - with the most knowledgeable, unselfish members you will ever meet. Just awesome!
I completely agree, eagletoo. The 23D and this one have some of the kindest and knowledgeable members that I have encountered on a forum. It is quite amazing.
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Old 07-28-2019, 12:13 PM   #1330
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If the meter shows a net of 0 amps...the sun is keeping your batteries at par. If negative...you're using less than you're producing, and if positive...your producing more than you're using. Just sort of a window to know what is happening overall, with an eye to conserving battery power while not hooked up to shore power.
Whoops. If negative, you are using MORE than the sun is producing. I said that wrong.
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