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Old 07-27-2019, 11:21 AM   #1303
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Ok. So far, so good. Click image for larger version

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Old 07-27-2019, 11:29 AM   #1304
3rd one is the charm?
 
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Originally Posted by leedav View Post
Thinking I might just put the victron here on the pedestal. We're outside anyway when the generator is running and it has Bluetooth. Also, what is this thing in the speaker enclosure?
That would be a good spot. I used the prewire to the galley because I wanted easy visual on the meter, but once it was installed and I saw how sweet the bluetooth app is...the meter really doesn't need to be easily visible. The box with the wires is a mystery. Is that on the wall under the dinette seat next to the sub? Looks like one wire has a white tag on it, can you read what it says?


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Temp sensor is $20. Dammit I've been reading this stuff until my eyes are falling out and I missed that.
Temp sensor doesn't matter unless you add solar with the Victron Charge Controller that will use the temp to regulate the charge...I *THINK*. Not a massively huge deal even then, as far as I'm concerned.

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Left it on the charger overnight. The battery was full the WFCO was at 13.6
Even the PD4655 might not go into 13.2 float for 48 hours or so, and then as soon as a load is applied to the batts, goes back into 13.6 mode. Don't stress too much about it, the main advantage is getting the true bulk mode with manual override, and the true 13.2 float mode when plugged in for long periods of time, especially storage (for those that store their's plugged in).

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Is there anything critical under the floor in the compartment where the inverter is? Do I have to worry about the screws that hold the shunt down penetrating the floor?
No, especially not those short screws, they won't even penetrate the plywood all the way.
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Old 07-27-2019, 11:38 AM   #1305
3rd one is the charm?
 
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Ok. So far, so good. Attachment 347741
Nice. You're in! Great spot for it.
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Old 07-27-2019, 11:50 AM   #1306
3rd one is the charm?
 
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Something to keep in mind when watching 'float' vs 'absorption' vs 'bulk,' and what the battery voltage reads at any given moment, etc...is that this is not like a mechanical connection with absolutes. It's actually a very fluid and flexible process. The monitor should measure amps 'out' at any given moment quite accurately, as well as what the battery voltage is at any given moment...but keep in mind that even that can be impacted by how long since it's been 'offline' from the charger, etc. My tow vehicle, I discovered during this process, provides current through the umbilical even if the car is turned off...which would totally mislead the readings from my Victron Monitor as far as amps being used, and voltage in the trailer battery. Other vehicles only provide power through the cord if the car is running, or ignition is 'on', and I've heard some only if the car is in "D". So depending on all that you might need to unplug from umbilical if stopped for the night and want to monitor batteries. Just remember to plug back in before leaving!

If you're camping without shore power, yes, the voltage will be pretty accurate as well. But things like 'time to discharge' on the Victron are nothing more than guesses, at a specific moment in time, so don't get caught up in that. Also, the PD4655 is always in a 'dance' with the batteries, trying to figure out how charged they are, what draws there are, and what voltage and current it needs to provide them with, at any moment in time. All that bounces around constantly so don't worry about instantaneous readings or charger outputs at any given moment. Just let it do its thing, and let the new monitor help you keep an eye on all of it.
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Old 07-27-2019, 12:18 PM   #1307
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So I just installed the jumpers that allow me to check the levels in my battery, because for some reason airstream gives you a little short ones that don't let you open the caps. Both batteries have a bad cell at the end, which is probably contributing to my issues. Good news is the pd4655 just arrived
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Old 07-27-2019, 01:30 PM   #1308
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Dog is out. Kat is inClick image for larger version

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Old 07-27-2019, 01:41 PM   #1309
3rd one is the charm?
 
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Ahhhhh I know you loved seeing that 14.1V. Did it default to that or did you bump it in to boost.
Re: bad cells in batteries: Make sure water is full, Give them a good 2-day charge, remove power, let rest a couple hours, then test with hydrometer. If each still has a bad cell, pull them out and head to the store for two new ones...they are toast and will not hold a charge. Better yet...switch to two 6V batteries and bump your available amp hours from around 160 to 225 :-) On a 2019 they should fit in your box without needing an extension. (Verify this of course. Trojan T105s are 11.07 inches tall. Would require you to put replace 12V house side lugs with ring lugs at batteries.
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Old 07-27-2019, 01:45 PM   #1310
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Ahhhhh I know you loved seeing that 14.1V. Did it default to that or did you bump it in to boost./
Re: bad cells in batteries: Make sure water is full, Give them a good 2-day charge, remove power, let rest a couple hours, then test with hydrometer. If each still has a bad cell, pull them out and head to the store for two new ones...they are toast and will not hold a charge. Better yet...switch to two 6V batteries and bump your available amp hours from around 160 to 225 :-)
> a chorus of angels sang
> not sure b/c I hit the button then realized I wasn't plugged in.
> The Interstate guy in our neighborhood said bring the whole rig on Monday, so plenty of time for them to equalize. Water was low too. Didn't like the circular finger pointing between AS and Interstate but it's all good now
> yes, 6v when these die on MY nickel..
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Old 07-27-2019, 01:49 PM   #1311
3rd one is the charm?
 
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Originally Posted by leedav View Post
> a chorus of angels sang
> not sure b/c I hit the button then realized I wasn't plugged in.
> The Interstate guy in our neighborhood said bring the whole rig on Monday, so plenty of time for them to equalize. Water was low too. Didn't like the circular finger pointing between AS and Interstate but it's all good now
> yes, 6v when these die on MY nickel..
Oh yeah if Interstate is hooking you up with freshies, go with that obviously for now. Check water in new batteries often, especially now you have a charger that will be pumping out 14.x volts at times.
Good job, now just the shunt and you're in business.
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Old 07-27-2019, 04:05 PM   #1312
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Ok. Kind of an ordeal (mostly fear of a bonfire), appreciate the coaching.

Tomorrow I'll pick up the tools and put the mattress back.

Thanks again. Click image for larger version

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Old 07-27-2019, 05:06 PM   #1313
3rd one is the charm?
 
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Ok. Kind of an ordeal (mostly fear of a bonfire), appreciate the coaching.

Tomorrow I'll pick up the tools and put the mattress back.

Thanks again. Attachment 347763Attachment 347764

Wow you're done! nice job. Get your new batteries and go camping!
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Old 07-27-2019, 07:21 PM   #1314
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Iíve been following along. I really donít get it that there are 2 negative - black cables - that run to the negative terminal of the battery bank. I only had 1. If itís for another function usage wonít be calculated, of course. Just sayiní
Clint
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Old 07-27-2019, 07:42 PM   #1315
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It goes to the inverter. Dunno why.
Quote:
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Iíve been following along. I really donít get it that there are 2 negative - black cables - that run to the negative terminal of the battery bank. I only had 1. If itís for another function usage wonít be calculated, of course. Just sayiní
Clint
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Old 07-27-2019, 07:59 PM   #1316
3rd one is the charm?
 
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Originally Posted by Wolfwhistle View Post
I’ve been following along. I really don’t get it that there are 2 negative - black cables - that run to the negative terminal of the battery bank. I only had 1. If it’s for another function usage won’t be calculated, of course. Just sayin’
Clint
On his trailer, Airstream used separate cables from the batteries, one set to the 12V house (6ga) and one set to the inverter (4ga). If trailer was not equipped with factory inverter, there would have only been the one set, 12V house.

So instead of just interrupting one set of cables from the batteries with the shunt, he had two sets to interrupt...the inverter and house cables. Needed to include both cables from the batteries to the shunt, in order to have enough wire capacity to carry both house loads and inverter load. Then continue the original two wires from load side, one to the inverter, the other to house. So inverter draw and house draw will flow through the shunt.

On my install, I removed the 6ga and 4ga pairs when I did my 6V battery conversion, and went with 2ga wire from battery to the trailer; then 4ga from load side of shunt to inverter, and 6ga from load side of shunt to house 12v. The 2ga was installed so that I had enough capacity to carry both the house and inverter loads on one strand of cable. Doing it Leedav's way is easier and perfectly fine, but I decided to go a bit cleaner with less wires from the batts. Especially since I installed a switch that gives me four options: battery off, house only, inverter only, or both house and inverter. The second switch is to isolate solar panels from the solar charger.
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