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Old 07-08-2019, 11:00 PM   #1177
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Originally Posted by Jdubya View Post
Mine wobbled. I spend the winters living in my trailer....the table is my work space. I had the whole table removed because i was constantly moving it out of my way. Since I work at that table I moved it a lot. Now, it makes that area a lounge and I love it. Itís just me...I have a great light weight table I put up .... move it out of the way in the evenings....or move it around when I entertain. Use it as an extra prep table. I can take the table outside (actually have 2 of them).

So no bathroom door and no table
I'll probably design and build something better
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Old 07-09-2019, 05:39 AM   #1178
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... Had them take the bathroom door off, too....I have a curtain that closes there. The door bugged me ... blocking the kitchen sink.
J, I am also bothered by the bathroom door. I have contemplated removing it and replacing with a bifold (DIY) but the curtain is certainly easier and has its advantages. Next project.

As far as the impractical dinette (YMMV situation), I removed all of it and replaced with a 78" long counter that runs below the windows and that can flip out and make into a single bed. I have 2 small office chairs, that work pretty good. It provides a place to prep / draw / work / appliances. Of course, the chairs can be swiveled so 2 people can actually watch TV at the same time (I rarely do, however) and they are considerably more comfortable than the original thin dinette cushions.

With the Jetpack and Weboost (and enough signal), I can watch Amazon Prime or Netflix on the iPad. Or just search the web for interesting content. Or, better yet, get outside when its nice.

Being able to return to stock if I ever sell the AS, is important.

Clint
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Old 07-09-2019, 06:11 AM   #1179
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I have wondered if going LFP batteries, where I would place them in the 23FB IS (2013).

I recently converted a cargo trailer to toyhauler / camper and needed unvented / sealed batteries and would want decent AGMs, possibly large and heavy AGMs.

I considered going to 100Ah Battle Born, but when I noticed Renogy dropped the price of their 170Ah LFP from $1499 to $980 I decided to buy 2. I thought I would put one in the new camper and one in the AS, but could put both in either when traveling.

The AS does have (had) two 6v @ 230 Ah. This is about 140# of batteries with the 46.3# of this single LFP giving me over 60% more usable AH. Two gives me about 300% more usable Ah. It would take about 420# of FLA to do that.

So, where to install it / them? I have never camped at below freezing but still wanted the LFP inside. There is lots of space under the bed, but I was thinking the existing wiring rats nest area might work. AS mounted some components dead center on the floor, making it a challenge to clear the space.

So, by removing the Use/Store solenoid and auto reset breakers, the J-Box (connects from the 7pin), the original ground bus and zip tie the rats next toward the sides as best I could, these 14.05 X 6.10 X 10.63 inches beasts might fit. And they do.

The only thing I need to do is make a suitable tiedown system for them.

Its easy to reprogram the TM-2030RV and SC-2030 for what the LFP's need and when I upgraded the Converter, I bought the one that LFP ready. Just moved the jumper plug. Done.

Attached in a paint drawing of the area. Not to scale.

Clint
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Old 07-09-2019, 06:43 AM   #1180
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Originally Posted by Wolfwhistle View Post
J, I am also bothered by the bathroom door. I have contemplated removing it and replacing with a bifold (DIY) but the curtain is certainly easier and has its advantages. Next project.

As far as the impractical dinette (YMMV situation), I removed all of it and replaced with a 78" long counter that runs below the windows and that can flip out and make into a single bed. I have 2 small office chairs, that work pretty good. It provides a place to prep / draw / work / appliances. Of course, the chairs can be swiveled so 2 people can actually watch TV at the same time (I rarely do, however) and they are considerably more comfortable than the original thin dinette cushions.

With the Jetpack and Weboost (and enough signal), I can watch Amazon Prime or Netflix on the iPad. Or just search the web for interesting content. Or, better yet, get outside when its nice.

Being able to return to stock if I ever sell the AS, is important.

Clint

I have seen pics (I recall that I have) of your table setup and I like it. I am sure this winter will bring about another set of changes for me to have done.

Taking the bathroom door off made a huge difference in overall floor space and having the back window visible is nice for view and airflow.

I have a Weeboost and the Airstream Connect and so far iím pleased with signal strength. I had the microwave taken out and a cabinet door made to match; 50% of the time iím dry camping so I figured the space was more important. I have my Weboost and connect mounted in that cabinet. It didnít dawn on me to make the plug back there a 12v plug so I have to plug the Weboost into another receptacle when needed. Another project to have done. But, last weekend in the middle of nowhere FairPlay CO my connect was pulling in signal without using the Weboost.

I think I need more battery!
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Old 07-09-2019, 01:06 PM   #1181
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Made my first "mod" today. After slicing my finger, I ground off the burr they left on the sheet metal of the bumper compartment and lid. (sigh)
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Old 07-09-2019, 01:11 PM   #1182
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Made my first "mod" today. After slicing my finger, I ground off the burr they left on the sheet metal of the bumper compartment and lid. (sigh)
The first of many mods, I am sure. After a nightmare bumpy road last weekend that totaled in/out 14 miles I now have to secure the street side closet. I wish I were more handy!

Enjoy each mod....
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Old 07-10-2019, 08:22 AM   #1183
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Is there any reason to expect higher power consumption while dry camping than the Bambi 16?
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Old 07-10-2019, 12:48 PM   #1184
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You need to ‘splain more fellow earthling.

120 volt or battery power? Gut feeling is the batteries ran down faster than you expected??

How did you determine whatever is high is too high?

Clint
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Old 07-10-2019, 02:32 PM   #1185
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Today I finally did something about the awkward location of the comfort control. Where it was I could barely read the display. So it swings out now. Just bare wood right now.
Clint
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Old 07-11-2019, 07:53 AM   #1186
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Originally Posted by Wolfwhistle View Post
You need to Ďsplain more fellow earthling.

120 volt or battery power? Gut feeling is the batteries ran down faster than you expected??

How did you determine whatever is high is too high?

Clint
Battery power. Using basically the heater and one or two lights. With the Bambi we only needed to run the generator for an hour or so each day to recharge (had two batteries)
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Old 07-11-2019, 08:42 AM   #1187
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Battery power. Using basically the heater and one or two lights. With the Bambi we only needed to run the generator for an hour or so each day to recharge (had two batteries)
This is a good question. I see posts here all the time about needing to recharge the batteries daily if you are running the furnace. I wonder if the furnace fan uses that much more power in a 23 than a 16. I am assuming the furnace blowers in the bigger trailers must pull a lot of power. We routinely go a few days without running the generator. However, we let the trailer get pretty cool at night. Iíll run the furnace a bit in the morning and make coffee inside. That usually warms up a 23 so my LW will come out from under the blankets. Make sure the stereo is off. Donít leave the pump on. I would be surprised if the power consumption was a whole lot more than the 16, but Iím purely speculating.
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Old 07-11-2019, 09:26 AM   #1188
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This is a good question. I see posts here all the time about needing to recharge the batteries daily if you are running the furnace. I wonder if the furnace fan uses that much more power in a 23 than a 16. I am assuming the furnace blowers in the bigger trailers must pull a lot of power. We routinely go a few days without running the generator. However, we let the trailer get pretty cool at night. Iíll run the furnace a bit in the morning and make coffee inside. That usually warms up a 23 so my LW will come out from under the blankets. Make sure the stereo is off. Donít leave the pump on. I would be surprised if the power consumption was a whole lot more than the 16, but Iím purely speculating.


I was thinking the same. Pump stays on for us. Frequent visitor to the WC at night.
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Old 07-12-2019, 06:18 AM   #1189
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Originally Posted by Wolfwhistle View Post
I have wondered if going LFP batteries, where I would place them in the 23FB IS (2013).


So, by removing the Use/Store solenoid and auto reset breakers, the J-Box (connects from the 7pin), the original ground bus and zip tie the rats next toward the sides as best I could, these 14.05 X 6.10 X 10.63 inches beasts might fit. And they do.


Clint
Oops! I didn't "remove" these components, I moved or relocated them within that space to free up space on the floor.

Sorry about that Chief, Clint
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Old 07-12-2019, 07:08 AM   #1190
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Battery power. Using basically the heater and one or two lights. With the Bambi we only needed to run the generator for an hour or so each day to recharge (had two batteries)
Thanks, L. The furnace fan is surprisingly quite the power hog. If the lights are LED this is not the issue. The CO detector uses a little, as well.

First, charging an hour or two isn't enough. Not even with a good converter / charger and batteries, which you might not have; so, you're are starting the evening with far less than full batteries. Maybe closer to half than full. When new, the factory battery pair has only about 40 Ah usable power, and that is when fully charged. You can see that if they are half charged, the furnace might not have enough for a single cold night.

When a converter / charger is in a true Bulk mode (stage) and voltage is in the 14.4 volt range, a Flooded Lead Acid battery charges to 80% in about 20% of the time to fully charge. The remaining 20% then takes 80% of the time. If your converter only manages 13.6 volts, they will never be full and hours could stretch into days to be all they can be, with this charger.

A converter charger upgrade is what I did. I don't know what type you have but my old Parallax would only put out 13.6 v not enough to charge in under a day or two and too high a voltage to keep it on continuously. I was shocked to find out AS was still using them in 2013. But, the WFCO I had in a SOB was not much better since it would never reenter Bulk mode.

I hesitate to say ditch the Interstates and go with something bigger and better. This depends, how do they test. Are they still as good as they should be? Will a converter upgrade be all you need? If they are bad, I would not replace with the same size and model, but look into more as much battery as the box will fit and even a pair of 6 volt golf cart, if possible.

The third thing I would recommend is installing a good battery monitor. What AS installs is not much. It goes by volts, which tells you nothing about state of charge. The first thing I did after getting the AS home was to order and install a Trimetric TM-2030RV. With that and the required shunt and a little rewiring you will know how much battery you have left and when they are charged. Easy to program and fairly easy to install. If you are near, I can help. Other's love the Victron unit. The fuel gauge analogy is probably worn out, but would you own a car without a fuel gauge and let it run out of fuel before filling up? It also doesn't make sense to charge when not necessary.

I actually have 2 good GC-2s that I would bless a fellow AS'er with.
Let me know if I can help further,
Clint
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