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leedav · 07-30-2019, 06:42 PM

I learned something new already after installing my Victron. I brought the trailer back to the yard today. The batteries were fully charged. After jacking the trailer up and down to attach it to the TV, I looked at the meter and the TV was charging the battery at 15 amps. I conclude that the jack uses a lot of power, and when I arrive to dry camp I will try to do most of my jacking with the tow vehicle attached and running

Fair_Enough · 07-30-2019, 06:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by eagletoo

Patrick did a recent excellent video on the new twin. I will be focusing on making sure the hot water heater is properly supported (unlike my 23CB), operates like it should (changed out 3 boards) and, of course, that all the other systems operate correctly.

Pretty excited!

I secured my water heater today. AS jammed a short piece of scrap 2x4 and 1x4 under one side. The "interesting" thing is it sticks up with its top higher than the normal bed height. It was in the wardrobe, so it didn't matter. I have to space the top of the bed supports 1-1/2" higher all around... both sides... because of this. When I removed the cr......py support AS used, I noticed the side metal was distorted, so I put a better support in and strapped it down as well.

I have not changed a board yet, but I might want to. Sometimes the WH on LP lights then goes out several times before it stays lit.

Clint

GMFL · 07-30-2019, 07:32 PM

Clint,
Did you do the spray foam support or just wood?

Fair_Enough · 07-31-2019, 07:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GMFL

Clint,
Did you do the spray foam support or just wood?

I built up 1x4s to 3-3/4” side to side on side away from wall, screwed it to the floor; then pulled down with moderate to light duty ratchet straps. THEN, looked to see if outside wall looked happy and it did. Feels very solid.

I could still foam it if you think it would improve it.

Clint

GMFL · 07-31-2019, 07:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wolfwhistle

I built up 1x4s to 3-3/4” side to side on side away from wall, screwed it to the floor; then pulled down with moderate to light duty ratchet straps. THEN, looked to see if outside wall looked happy and it did. Feels very solid.

I could still foam it if you think it would improve it.

Clint

Foam helps with lateral movement also but I think you’ve got it covered with the ratchet strap.

eagletoo · 07-31-2019, 08:32 AM

Clint, if possible can you take some pics of your hw heater upgraded installation? I have a feeling I will see the same stock cruddy install that you saw.
Thanks

pcskier · 07-31-2019, 10:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by leedav

I learned something new already after installing my Victron. I brought the trailer back to the yard today. The batteries were fully charged. After jacking the trailer up and down to attach it to the TV, I looked at the meter and the TV was charging the battery at 15 amps. I conclude that the jack uses a lot of power, and when I arrive to dry camp I will try to do most of my jacking with the tow vehicle attached and running

Yes that motor is a hog, but not really a factor given the short bursts. Let's call it 10 seconds to lift off ball, then 20 seconds up and down to level, for a total of 30 seconds. Heck lets round up to a minute of use. That's .25 amp hours out of your 160 amp hour 'allotment" (50% discharge) with healthy, fully charged batteries--negligible. But I applaud your 'conservation' thought process! I used a headlamp at night in the trailer when boondocking, even with LED lighting being so frugal. Saving watts was an obsession. Hoping with my new solar install I won't have to worry about it much any more.

You like how I threw that plug for your next project in there?

leedav · 07-31-2019, 11:02 AM

On that topic then. If I add a zamp solar, in order to take advantage of the prewire, what does it include? Do I have to buy panels only, or also a controller? The alternative is 105 batteries, and cycle them between 90 and 60 percent using the genny to maximize their service life. The extra Ah capacity could be the gap filler.

pcskier · 07-31-2019, 11:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by leedav

On that topic then. If I add a zamp solar, in order to take advantage of the prewire, what does it include? Do I have to buy panels only, or also a controller? The alternative is 105 batteries, and cycle them between 90 and 60 percent using the genny to maximize their service life. The extra Ah capacity could be the gap filler.

Probably better as a whole new thread in the Solar part of the forum. Whether you use Zamp, or Renogy, or any other brand of panel (I chose Renogy...less than half the price of Zamp), you will need a charge controller which you'd install under the bed. Then most people add a switch to take the panels offline, and a switchable fuse between the controller and batteries.

Your trailer also has a portable solar plug-in on the tongue I believe? Of course then an option is to get a portable panel or suitcase, that might be enough for your needs. Those portable systems come with a charge controller already integrated. The portables have the advantage that you can move them to where the sun is if you're parked in shady areas.

I added 400 watts on my 23d (corner bed) and fully DIY, about $1,000 for the 'solar' piece. Then included the Victron BMV-712 ($235). Lastly, I switched to the T105s 6V option. The batteries is the next 'logical' upgrade, as it takes you from 160 useable amp hours to 225. That right there is a biggy. I just decided to get it all done at once.

leedav · 07-31-2019, 01:33 PM

Have you done any research on what the impact is of a bad battery when they're connected in series?

pcskier · 07-31-2019, 01:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by leedav

Have you done any research on what the impact is of a bad battery when they're connected in series?

No. But it wouldn't be good. Each cell is 2.x volts. One dead cell puts me down around 10v so I'd be dead in the water. If I understand it right. With 2x 12v in parallel, obviously one good battery and a dead cell in another would give me 12v still, just less capacity. But then I think that an imbalance between the two has some impacts too? I don't know for sure.

The chance of a bad cell in a 6v is a risk I'm OK with. The advantages outweigh that for me.

Fair_Enough · 07-31-2019, 03:47 PM

pcskier,

Since ampere / hour is additive with parallel and voltage additive on series. My original Interstate 80s would have 80 Ah usable (yes?).

My 225 Ah in series has just that, 225 usable. I see the comments from many folks that seem to think they are going to kill their batteries if they go below that 12.0 or 11.9 resting volts. You can indeed go lower to as low as 11.5 if done seldomly without serious harm.

You are right, this subject is covered for better or worse on other threads.

But, taking care of fellow 23'ers... I would say the ill effect of losing a battery whether if series or parallel is about the same. I have used 6 volt for years and have never see a 6 volt go nuclear. I do, however maintain flooded cells correctly. A person who never even check fluid will be our positive indicators for what that would look like.

I am not a Zamp fan. I don't like the SAE plugs. Don't like the prices. Especially after hearing a Zamp presentation at the recent International WBCCI rally. He said the factory wiring to the roof, even if only10 awg will support 450W of PV. I think they only make a PWM controller and its parallel only configuration. My 23FB has 10 awg back to the rear fantastic fan. (I didn't use it) Adding even 300W would require running wire back up the front (left and right), which would cause huge voltage drops. It seems to me, AS only expected a person adding a single 100 W for my model and year. If they wired to the front fan (maybe on some models) you could add 300W in parallel. I am speaking for me, other's might have no problem with the high voltage drop numbers.

If Zamp has a MPPT I haven't see it. I saw a AS at the rally that had a plug in front which only was wired to the batteries (not connected, I suppose).

Also, someone reportedly has 8 awg from the factory. That would make a big improvement.

Clint

Fair_Enough · 07-31-2019, 05:58 PM

Has anyone seen this happen.

While at the Rally, we had decent city water... volume and pressure was great. Instructions said to arrive with holding tanks empty and a full fresh water tank. I stopped along the way and the tank was showing (based on the monitor) one light down from full.

Water pump was off... never turned on. There was no leaks.

After several days the fresh tank was showing around half full. I had not been drinking alcohol... at least not in excess. Ha

I know about the pump check valve failing that would fill or overflow the fresh tank from the city supply, but has anyone heard of the opposite happening?

I suspect that the issue is the inaccuracy of the monitor system. Anyone?

Thanks,
Clint

RFP · 07-31-2019, 06:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wolfwhistle

< snip >

I suspect that the issue is the inaccuracy of the monitor system. Anyone?

Thanks,
Clint

Probably so, Clint, the MicroPulse systems are famous for inaccuracies.

Fair_Enough · 08-01-2019, 08:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by eagletoo

Clint, if possible can you take some pics of your hw heater upgraded installation? I have a feeling I will see the same stock cruddy install that you saw.
Thanks

Will do. Today

RFP · 08-01-2019, 09:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wolfwhistle

Will do. Today

Well, I'm not Clint, but here are a couple of posts to get you thinking...

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f142...ml#post2160008

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f445...ml#post2154429

Fair_Enough · 08-02-2019, 05:08 AM

With most cabinetry removed
Clint

Fair_Enough · 08-02-2019, 05:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wolfwhistle

pcskier

My 225 Ah in series has just that, 225 usable.
Clint

I’m quoting myself to make a correction. I tried to edit a few hours after I posted the bad info but I had waited too long.

Correction: two GC-2s at 225 Ah are considered about 112 Ah usable when discharged slowly.
Oops

Fair_Enough · 08-02-2019, 09:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RFP

Probably so, Clint, the MicroPulse systems are famous for inaccuracies.

I sanitized after getting home and filled it. Read full. Odd. Thx
Clint

Fair_Enough · 08-02-2019, 09:33 AM

Anyone curious what floor looks like below the thin vinyl sheet? A band of black paint around perimeter and s cost of adhesives, which wasn’t holding many places on this 2013 model year. You can see butt joint fasteners and hefty flat square drive screws. Some evidence of sanding too. More than Forest River does.

I have some gently used blonde vinyl free to a good home. Too.
Clint