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Old 07-19-2019, 05:55 PM   #1221
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So when the battery is low and you run the genny do you see 14+ volts on the panel? I saw 13.9 with my external charger at the panel and 13.9 when I turned it off. I assumed 13.9 after charging was just surface charge on the plates. The internal converter showed 13.5 at best. I’m telling myself it’s a charging system issue and all will be well when I take it in. Converter spec says bulk mode at 14.4. And the batteries were on the floor in the morning when I used the internal converter for much more time than the external.
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Old 07-19-2019, 06:51 PM   #1222
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So when the battery is low and you run the genny do you see 14+ volts on the panel? I saw 13.9 with my external charger at the panel and 13.9 when I turned it off. I assumed 13.9 after charging was just surface charge on the plates. The internal converter showed 13.5 at best. I’m telling myself it’s a charging system issue and all will be well when I take it in. Converter spec says bulk mode at 14.4. And the batteries were on the floor in the morning when I used the internal converter for much more time than the external.
For what it's worth, I get 14.x a lot when using my Progressive Dynamic PD4655 that I changed to. Granted, I did not have a multi-stage unit in my 2014 like you do. The PD might take a few minutes to 'read' whats going on, but will increase up to 14.x (sometimes 14.4, sometimes 14.2, etc) on shore power or generator. 13.5 on normal, then 13.2 on float which might take 2 days. You are correct, that 13.9 is surface charge. Mine will show whatever the converter was last sending it (13.2/13.5 etc) when I take the converter/charger offline, and it might take 1/2 hour or more for the voltage to settle in at 12.7/12.8 (full charge).
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Old 07-19-2019, 07:40 PM   #1223
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It's not unusual to roll over a chock. So, you are not far from the norm on that one. Check list may help as an interim fix. We use the X-chock and a set of multiple ground style chocks. Have them. Why not use them. Do like the X-chock. The new ones have the warning notice. If you level the coach before you install them, the tongue jack disclaimer is moot.

Good on you for getting a batch of Legos. We are up to two dozen now. Most were added for leveling the coach in front of the house. Got tired of using the scrap boards left over from a fence build.

Again - thanks for sharing. Pat
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Old 07-19-2019, 07:48 PM   #1224
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Help me here. The chock keeps the coach from rolling away while you disconnect. Then you can level once the TV is out of the way. Then the chock keeps excess gravity at bay. What did I miss?
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Old 07-19-2019, 07:52 PM   #1225
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Or did you mean level right to left?
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It's not unusual to roll over a chock. So, you are not far from the norm on that one. Check list may help as an interim fix. We use the X-chock and a set of multiple ground style chocks. Have them. Why not use them. Do like the X-chock. The new ones have the warning notice. If you level the coach before you install them, the tongue jack disclaimer is moot.

Good on you for getting a batch of Legos. We are up to two dozen now. Most were added for leveling the coach in front of the house. Got tired of using the scrap boards left over from a fence build.

Again - thanks for sharing. Pat
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Old 07-19-2019, 08:27 PM   #1226
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That is confusing. Left to right level gets set on the back/pull-in.

Then a ground style chock goes under front and back of tires or between the tires on the legos, if left to right level was required. That locates the trailer. Then disconnect and level with the tongue jack. Then install the X-chocks to lock and stabilize the coach. Note, often we do one night transit stays and never drop the trailer. Additionally, for left/right level, close is good enough for one night if it's the head of the bed that is up a bit. For multiple nights leveling gets precise. It is more of a problem for the dinette seats than the bed. Not all of the furniture is true. Pick your perfection - the sink, counter, refrigerator, seating, or bed.

Note - on a site with a significant down grade, we add a chock in front of the TV tires and do not disconnect. Generally, we get another site if at all possible. It's not a frequent occurrence.

Sorry for the prior poor explanation. Pat
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Old 07-19-2019, 08:55 PM   #1227
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First Trip 23FB Raves and Rants (vs Bambi 16):

Rants:
- power consumption. WTH? same protocols as with the Bambi, more generator time and very low battery in the morning, 12.1-12.2. Was much better with my external charger and charged to 12.9. Never saw more than 13.5 volts off the internal converter.
Airstream puts WFCO converter/chargers in 2019 trailers. WFCO converter/chargers are notorious for never going into boost mode. The best you will likely every see is 13.6 to 13.8. The solution is to replace the WFCO. I like the Progressive Dynamics PD4655V unit.
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Old 07-19-2019, 09:34 PM   #1228
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Thanks
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Originally Posted by PKI View Post
That is confusing. Left to right level gets set on the back/pull-in.

Then a ground style chock goes under front and back of tires or between the tires on the legos, if left to right level was required. That locates the trailer. Then disconnect and level with the tongue jack. Then install the X-chocks to lock and stabilize the coach. Note, often we do one night transit stays and never drop the trailer. Additionally, for left/right level, close is good enough for one night if it's the head of the bed that is up a bit. For multiple nights leveling gets precise. It is more of a problem for the dinette seats than the bed. Not all of the furniture is true. Pick your perfection - the sink, counter, refrigerator, seating, or bed.

Note - on a site with a significant down grade, we add a chock in front of the TV tires and do not disconnect. Generally, we get another site if at all possible. It's not a frequent occurrence.

Sorry for the prior poor explanation. Pat
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Old 07-19-2019, 09:36 PM   #1229
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Airstream puts WFCO converter/chargers in 2019 trailers. WFCO converter/chargers are notorious for never going into boost mode. The best you will likely every see is 13.6 to 13.8. The solution is to replace the WFCO. I like the Progressive Dynamics PD4655V unit.
I was thinking while driving to park the coach. I am guessing that due to cheap output transistors the output impedance of the converter is such that it probably can't source enough current to sustain 14+ volts under load.
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Old 07-19-2019, 09:40 PM   #1230
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I don’t disconnect the hitch unless and until the wheels are solidly chocked and locked. I use a couple yellow screw-type chocks between my dual axle tires. They don’t seem to care if I make minor front to back leveling adjustments. If they are locked in, the tires will skid instead of rolling. I tested this by accident one time.

I’m a little (ok, a LOT) paranoid about the trailer moving or getting away from me before it’s solidly locked against possible roll-away events.

Truth be told we normally leave the tow vehicle hooked up until we are on dead flat ground if at all possible.
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Old 07-19-2019, 11:38 PM   #1231
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I don’t disconnect the hitch unless and until the wheels are solidly chocked and locked. I use a couple yellow screw-type chocks between my dual axle tires. They don’t seem to care if I make minor front to back leveling adjustments. If they are locked in, the tires will skid instead of rolling. I tested this by accident one time.

I’m a little (ok, a LOT) paranoid about the trailer moving or getting away from me before it’s solidly locked against possible roll-away events.

Truth be told we normally leave the tow vehicle hooked up until we are on dead flat ground if at all possible.


So yeah. I think a risk to the x-chock is a way better value than having the coach run away!
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Old 07-20-2019, 05:07 AM   #1232
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Leeds,
“Don’t use as a parking brake” might as well say “don’t use as a boat anchor” definitely the result of a law suit. Someone probably didn’t have it tight and it rolled. How tight to make it, I guess at that. It’s a chock used on trailers without a parking brake. As far as not raising or lowering after in place; I can see it could put an “undo” twisting-like pressure on the tires... not letting them move independently... if going from all the way down to all the way up, for instance. It would be fairly easy to chock with simple chocks the use these after leveling. I have used these since 2014 and have never leveled first. I love the way they stop north-south movement.

One thing about battery volts. They have to have been resting before voltage means much. 12.9 would mean they were being charged too soon before reading. When reading 13.5 maybe you read as charging voltage was ramping up to 14?simething. It is correct a full resting battery is about 12.7 volts... resting. Boost (Bulk) mode should be more in the order of 14.4. Battery makers have a spec but your non adjustable chargers do what they do. My old WFCO in a SOB would never enter Boost. I still suspect you are not getting batteries full but if you are not willing to replace the converter / charger it is what it is. You get what you get. If that external charger works for you go for it. I have not seen one that can do what my Progressive can do...actual measured initial batteries low... 46 + amps, about 12.1 v as it ramped up to 14.4 v. My solar charger is more gentle with a maximum viewed current of 22 amps.
Clint.
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Old 07-20-2019, 08:31 AM   #1233
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Leeds,
“Don’t use as a parking brake” might as well say “don’t use as a boat anchor” definitely the result of a law suit. Someone probably didn’t have it tight and it rolled. How tight to make it, I guess at that. It’s a chock used on trailers without a parking brake. As far as not raising or lowering after in place; I can see it could put an “undo” twisting-like pressure on the tires... not letting them move independently... if going from all the way down to all the way up, for instance. It would be fairly easy to chock with simple chocks the use these after leveling. I have used these since 2014 and have never leveled first. I love the way they stop north-south movement.

One thing about battery volts. They have to have been resting before voltage means much. 12.9 would mean they were being charged too soon before reading. When reading 13.5 maybe you read as charging voltage was ramping up to 14?simething. It is correct a full resting battery is about 12.7 volts... resting. Boost (Bulk) mode should be more in the order of 14.4. Battery makers have a spec but your non adjustable chargers do what they do. My old WFCO in a SOB would never enter Boost. I still suspect you are not getting batteries full but if you are not willing to replace the converter / charger it is what it is. You get what you get. If that external charger works for you go for it. I have not seen one that can do what my Progressive can do...actual measured initial batteries low... 46 + amps, about 12.1 v as it ramped up to 14.4 v. My solar charger is more gentle with a maximum viewed current of 22 amps.
Clint.


Eyeballing the progressive
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Old 07-20-2019, 09:03 AM   #1234
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Eyeballing the progressive


Always nervous to modify a new expensive toy. watched the video, I think the worst part would be my knees. If I’m going to do that maybe the trimetric should go in at the same time. Where does the shunt and the wiring go? Do I need to poke a hole in the aluminum?
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Old 07-20-2019, 10:23 AM   #1235
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I like the PD. There is one in the trailer and another one in the garage waiting to be installed. The lithium charge profile option was not available on the first version. A better converter would be a multi-stage unit with the capability to custom program the charge profile.

The OEM converter on a new AS should not need to be replaced. Get the coach into the dealer and have it checked. Take advantage of that three year warranty.

Pat
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Old 07-20-2019, 11:00 AM   #1236
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Agreed. One more camping trip before my appointment (I made it in advance to address any new unit issues) I'm also looking at the BD1255, which just replaces the power section. That would be the least expensive option to get to boost mode reliably I think. DW is a little sensitive about spending given our large outlay on the coach. And I promised not to repeat the spending orgy that followed that acquisition of the Bambi
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Old 07-20-2019, 08:35 PM   #1237
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Always nervous to modify a new expensive toy. watched the video, I think the worst part would be my knees. If I’m going to do that maybe the trimetric should go in at the same time. Where does the shunt and the wiring go? Do I need to poke a hole in the aluminum?
No holes. If you have the older type converter and want to replace with PDI, it is fairly easy and you don't have to replace the fuse block.

The shunt simply is wired between battery + and loads, where you remove the cable from that goes directly to the battery. Nothing should be using power on the battery side of the shunt. Frankly, I left the tongue jack there since it uses very little and occasional power.

I would recommend download and read the TM manual

http://www.bogartengineering.com/wp-...false&s2=false

Note there are two popular values for a shunt. 100A and 500A. I went with 500 since I have larger than 600 watt inverter. Neither can sustain what the numbers say without getting hot.

From the shunt you run low voltage 24 awg (like phone wire) to fused + 12 v and to the TM2030. Oh, I like the RV model that is surface mount.

Setting up / programming up the TM without the SC2030 charger is very easy.
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Old 07-20-2019, 11:07 PM   #1238
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Where does the 24 gauge wire for the meter go into the coach?
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No holes. If you have the older type converter and want to replace with PDI, it is fairly easy and you don't have to replace the fuse block.

The shunt simply is wired between battery + and loads, where you remove the cable from that goes directly to the battery. Nothing should be using power on the battery side of the shunt. Frankly, I left the tongue jack there since it uses very little and occasional power.

I would recommend download and read the TM manual

http://www.bogartengineering.com/wp-...false&s2=false

Note there are two popular values for a shunt. 100A and 500A. I went with 500 since I have larger than 600 watt inverter. Neither can sustain what the numbers say without getting hot.

From the shunt you run low voltage 24 awg (like phone wire) to fused + 12 v and to the TM2030. Oh, I like the RV model that is surface mount.

Setting up / programming up the TM without the SC2030 charger is very easy.
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Old 07-21-2019, 07:08 AM   #1239
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Towel rack

The C shaped towel rack under the mirror, the C part just fell out. I don’t see anyway to secure it.
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Old 07-21-2019, 03:43 PM   #1240
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Where does the 24 gauge wire for the meter go into the coach?
From the shunt in the space curb front under the bed to wherever you want the monitor.

Mine is here. Wall next to wardrobe behind dinette seat that faces rearward. I mounted towards the outside edge as far as I could and not have a hole show.

There is a hole through that wall and in front corner of bottom shelf of wardrobe.

Clint
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