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Old 08-08-2018, 06:30 AM   #801
2020 Globetrotter 25 FBT
 
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Sand shark, I had a Tacoma and switched to a Tundra. But, I didn’t switch because the Tacoma wasn’t enough of a tow vehicle. We have a small farm in NE Missouri and I needed a bigger pick up. I will say the Tacoma did fine, but the Tundra does it quite a bit easier. We’ve also pulled our 23FB with our Landcruiser (we like Toyota) and it pulled the 23FB easy also. The big thing we sacrificed when going from Tacoma to Tundra was the Offroad capability of the Tacoma. We could go over most passes in Colo with the Tacoma. Not so with the Tundra. On the plus side, we haul along a lot more “stuff” with the Tundra. (If you want to consider that a plus.)
The 23FB has a low tongue weight compared to most Airstreams. But you’ll have to watch out how much you pack into the front of the trailer, and under the bed. You might be pushing it on weight limits. May want to go to the scales and get all the weights. There’s a million posts on here about it. I don’t worry personally about it, as I think I have some wiggle room with the Tundra. Hope this helps.
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Old 08-08-2018, 12:28 PM   #802
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Originally Posted by sandshark View Post
Greetings to the forum. I am a new airstream owner I recently purchased a 2017 23 FB and I am concerned about my Toe vehicle. I have a 2011 Toyota Tacoma four door four-wheel-drive pickup truck with toe package. Can anyone tell me if they know of anyone that is using a similar toe vehicle? Mostly I travel on the East Coast and for the most part on fairly level ground. All that I have read here on the forum leads me to believe that most people are using full-size pickup trucks with larger engine. I would greatly appreciate any feedback that may be out there concerning my worries.


We originally towed our 23FB with our 2005 Tacoma. It was fine here in Oregon where much of the speed limit is 55. It was underpowered in the Mountains and once we got to places like eastern Idaho and Montana. We now tow with our Toyota Sequoia. You will be fine with the Tacoma if you aren’t in a hurry and mostly on the backroads. If you are spending time out West and the Interstates then be prepared to be in the slow lane doing 25 as you climb the mountain grades.
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Old 08-09-2018, 08:54 AM   #803
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What kind of sway control hitch are you using?

I'm looking at the Equal-i-zer and I can't decide on the 600 pound tongue weight one or the 1000 pound.

I looked at the specs for my 23' FB FC and it says the tongue weight is 467. I'm assuming that's dry. Loaded the trailer has a GVWR of 6000 which I would guess would increase the tongue weight as well.

Would it be a bid deal if I just bought the 1000 pound tongue weight one?

https://www.equalizerhitch.com/store/hitches
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Old 08-09-2018, 09:47 AM   #804
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< snip >

Would it be a bid deal if I just bought the 1000 pound tongue weight one?

https://www.equalizerhitch.com/store/hitches
I'm sure others with more experience will chime in here, but here's my two cents' worth:

It's not a good idea to "over bar" your hitch system. Bars rated too heavy for the application will provide a much harsher ride, and that's not good for your Airstream.

Our 23D has a much heavier tongue weight than your 23FB, and we are using a Reese hitch with 600-pound rated bars. It is a perfect combination.

Safe travels!
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Old 08-09-2018, 10:01 AM   #805
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Originally Posted by RFP View Post
I'm sure others with more experience will chime in here, but here's my two cents' worth:

It's not a good idea to "over bar" your hitch system. Bars rated too heavy for the application will provide a much harsher ride, and that's not good for your Airstream.

Our 23D has a much heavier tongue weight than your 23FB, and we are using a Reese hitch with 600-pound rated bars. It is a perfect combination.

Safe travels!
Thanks for the words of wisdom...never heard of over baring.
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Old 08-09-2018, 10:05 AM   #806
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Thanks for the words of wisdom...never heard of over baring.
Yeah... I did some of that in my " misspent youth" ...🍷
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Old 08-09-2018, 12:28 PM   #807
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Over baring - Spending too much time at the bar.

Dave
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Old 08-09-2018, 12:29 PM   #808
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Over Baring

Over baring - Spending too much time at the bar.

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Old 08-09-2018, 01:14 PM   #809
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-- snip --I can't decide on the 600 pound tongue weight one or the 1000 pound. -- snip --
The 467 will grow to about 600 and a bit more if you upgrade mattress or load heavy gear in the bed area.

Rule of thumb for tongue weight is 10-15% or 500 to 900 lbs. Holding to a weight of 600 to 750 lbs seems appropriate. So, no I would not use 1000 lb bars and I certainly would not use the stiff Equalizer 1K bars.

Look at the Reese centerline with dual cam sway control. It is available in an 800 lb bar range. Great hitch. Saw a lady installing one on her Bambi.

The Blue Ox has a 750 lb bar set available. Some won't tow with any other.

Pat
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Old 08-10-2018, 12:46 PM   #810
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Hi, my name is Clint and I am over-barred! OB Anonymous.

When calculating which torsion bar is proper for your needs; yes, the loaded-for-bear tongue weight is obvious. The other often missed thing is... any weight that is to be carried in your tow vehicle to the rear of the rear axle... add it all up.

So, it looks like I will be buying 600 - 750 # bars. Or, I could load a ton of crap in the rear of the truck, about 500#s worth. Maybe buy a safe??

You would think an AS dealer would sell me the correct WDH hitch. At least my little naive self would. Maybe they had trouble selling this one... couldn't move it till now???

I think it was Pat that told me which set of bars, but too late. I was already a proud new owner.

I'm not sure that I need WDH. Sway control yes, but this thing with a full tank of fresh, drops the rear of the Ford about 2", or less. They recommend a minimum of 7 links hanging... I am running 6 and have tried 5, which puts precious little tension on the bars. Tows mav-e-lous.

Better call Blue Ox.
WW
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Old 08-28-2018, 04:48 AM   #811
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Removing pedestal and table from 23fb

We have a new 2018 23fb serenity and does anyone know how to remove the pedestal to the table in lounge area? I want to put my own small fold up tray in that area.
****my apologies if I have hi-jacked this thread, but didn't know where else to go

Thanks Moab
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Old 08-28-2018, 10:43 AM   #812
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It appears that the ped on your coach is quite similar to the FC Ped we have. We have never removed the table and ped. To do what you suggest, removing the ped base by unbolting would be required. It was posted prior that when unbolting, it is probable you will lose the nuts as they fall onto the fresh water tank and belly pan. Certainly possible to take all apart and build it back, but a lot of work.

It may be possible to remove the post from the base and place a level riser over the area. I attempted to remove just the table top from the post to see how the assembly works. No luck with an easy pull off, so stopped trying. May have stopped to soon.

There are other folks who have removed the table. You might contact them individually and get more info. May be faster to ask your dealer or JC service how it comes apart.

This is certainly a subject worth investigating and documenting in this thread. Hope someone else will have better information. Pat
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Old 09-08-2018, 01:34 PM   #813
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Would someone with a 23FB mind taking a look at their water heater support blocks. On mine something does not seem right. Looks like the top piece has a slight lean to it. The outside of the unit looks fine. Is it normal to support a water heater like this. Does not seem very professional or maybe that's how it's done.

Thanks for any help.
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Old 09-08-2018, 01:43 PM   #814
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Would someone with a 23FB mind taking a look at their water heater support blocks. On mine something does not seem right. Looks like the top piece has a slight lean to it. The outside of the unit looks fine. Is it normal to support a water heater like this. Does not seem very professional or maybe that's how it's done.

Thanks for any help.
Timely. Is it normal? Yes. Is it professional? No. Is it how it's done (along with many other shoddy practices)? Yes. Anyway...

Read through this thread including GMFL's idea for beefing up the support. The good news is that on the 23FB it's much easier to get at the water heater to do this, without having to removed the bed platform like on the 23d/cb. http://www.airforums.com/forums/f445...rt-186617.html
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Old 09-08-2018, 02:05 PM   #815
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Timely. Is it normal? Yes. Is it professional? No. Is it how it's done (along with many other shoddy practices)? Yes. Anyway...
Thank you. After taking a look at that today I was going see what could be done to better support those blocks of wood. I didn't want to go modifying anything if the WH had moved, etc. The trailer is still under warranty and would let Airstream fix it if there was a defect. I hesitate having work done as the dealer techs seem to do more damage than repairing.
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Old 09-08-2018, 02:23 PM   #816
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Originally Posted by Xplore View Post
Thank you. After taking a look at that today I was going see what could be done to better support those blocks of wood. I didn't want to go modifying anything if the WH had moved, etc. The trailer is still under warranty and would let Airstream fix it if there was a defect. I hesitate having work done as the dealer techs seem to do more damage than repairing.

If that block collapsed or came free, and your outer skin tore like in the post I linked to, yes it would be fixed under warranty...but better to address it yourself now by beefing it up and avoiding that happening. You won't impact your warranty, and will avoid the spectre of an entire panel replacement, which even under warranty, is undesirable. (Olympic shaved rivets instead of bucked rivets, inconvenience, et al.) It was good that you noticed how poor that support is...it means you have an eye for the things that probably matter and will help you avoid problems down the road.
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Old 09-10-2018, 05:33 AM   #817
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I think I’ll check my supports for the hot water heater. Maybe I need to look under the refrigerator too.. I’ve just heard of the one (23cb) that collapsed though..
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Old 09-10-2018, 05:46 AM   #818
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Hey guys. The foam support method is working out great and should prevent the HORROR Eagletoo experienced below....
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f445...rt-186617.html
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Old 09-10-2018, 06:01 AM   #819
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Instead of spray foam, I was thinking of using low-density polyethylene foam sheets. The rigid foam they use to ship items like computer systems.
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Old 09-10-2018, 06:27 AM   #820
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The problem lies in the fact that the bottom of the water heater in not flat. The air space between the floor and bottom of the water heater is not uniform. Because of this block type supports will not work. That is why Airstream uses the edge of a short 1x2 to support the whole thing. An irregular spared support would be very hard to make accurately.
The Loctite foam I used drys very hard. “ harder than the Great Stuff brand”. I will form to the irregular space between the floor and Water heater well and provide support both vertically and laterally
I a very pleased with it.
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