The 23FB forum

[Harv]

I wonder if putting the check valve before the pump would help?


John

[leedav]

Originally Posted by Harv

I wonder if putting the check valve before the pump would help?





John

That’s what I did. I cut the line after the antifreeze valve

[SeaJim]

If you've replaced a shower drain p-trap on a 23 FB I'd like to pick your brain a bit. The collar securing the trap to the exit pipe is cracked and p-trap needs replacing. Parts available are different than original equipment and access via the access panel is really limited. Would like to know how others have worked this out. Thanks!

[Roadtech]

We are downsizing from a 27FB towed by a 3/4 ton truck to a 23FB Twin towed by a Jeep Wagoneer. We are looking forward, hopefully, to an easier towing, backing, and hitching experience. I have several questions that I hope someone can answer. I have searched this thread and can't find the answers. We have the 23 FB Twin on order, but haven't had a chance to see one. We have seen the queen version several years ago.
1. What are the dimensions of the shower?
2. What is the model and manufacturer of the air conditioning unit?
3. What is the model and manufacturer of the tankless water heater?
4. When I had my truck, it was easy to travel with my generator in the truck
bed. For those pulling the 23FB with an SUV, where do you store a generator
when traveling?

Thanks in advance for any ideas and suggestions.

[eagletoo]

Roadtech,
Can’t answer all of your questions but here goes:
We picked up our 2022 FBT last March.
Our tankless model is the Girard, model #GSWH-2.
Our a/c is a Dometic, 13,500 btu. The 2023 a/c system has be updated. Don’t know which unit AS is using. Might be same unit with bigger ductwork.
Weighing 250lbs, I have no problem in the shower. Foot and shoulder space are adequate for me. That’s my “real world” shower dimensions.
Can’t help you with generator, since we never had one.
Hope this helps.

[SimRunner]

Hi Roadtech, I can add a touch more info to eagletoo’s. I don’t have the shower dimensions, but the bathroom shower looks identical in both the twin bed and the queen bed configurations. Also, the galleys and dinettes appear to be the same in both bedroom configurations.

[PKI]

Originally Posted by Roadtech

-- snip --

If you saw a queen version, you saw the shower. Wife was happier with that shower than the one in our Moho.

Generator - stored it under the dinette table. Propane fueled Honda. Finally installed three Lithium cells and quit carrying the generator.

Enjoy the new coach. Pat

[viking1]

I tow my 23FB with a Mercedes 530 SUV AMG. The small Honda generator fits perfectly between the propane tanks and trailer body. It’s attached with heavy duty nylon tiedowns and big fat cable lock.

[Roadtech]

Originally Posted by PKI

Generator - stored it under the dinette table. Propane fueled Honda. Finally installed three Lithium cells and quit carrying the generator.

I had 400 amp-hrs of lithium batteries in my campervan and they would only run the air conditioner about 4 hours. Air conditioning is the reason for the generator.

[Bigboote]

I have a 2010 FC 23FB and managed to cook through my 6V batteries last year. I decided to get 1 100 ah lithium and it has been working fine. I had replaced the converter with a new Progressive Dynamics one that allowed me to move a switch to run lithium. (PD4655V) I don't have an inverter and have a 200W solar panel that is managed with a Samlex 30A charge controller. I have also installed a Victron battery monitor. My plan is to add another lithium battery. I will move them inside, as well as add another Pannel to the roof. My question is this.
I think this is a good opportunity to clean up the electrical under the bed. I am wondering a couple of things.
1. Do I keep the Samlex controller or put in a Victron 100/50 ?
2 I want to put in an inverter. Should I put in their inverter/converter or just an inverter and continue to run through my existing PD4655? I am not intending to run the AC with this set up. But the 3000W on the inverter/converter makes it a little better for me for skiing.

Any help from those who have been through this would be helpful.

Thanks

[Fair_Enough]

Hi B, I am kinda surprised you manage to fit a 200w panel, since I was only able to fit 100w panels, although I did eventually add 5 of them. So, not knowing more, adding another 200w - 400w total - is within the capability of a 30A MPPT. I don't know how good Samlex is, but I can tell you the 100/30 Smartsolar is what I would do. I am also assuming your panels are within the range of what is called a 12v panel (17v - 22v). Now, depending on where you camp, I would want to wire these panels in series, which allows a smaller gauge wire from panels to SCC... but again, if you experience shade, predominantly, then in parallel. I think a Multiplus 3000w is a bit of overkill since a the Multiplus 2000w inverter / charger seems to be all you really need. Its a bit smaller and lighter and yes, it would eliminate the need for the PD4655V. The Multi has a built in 50A rated transfer switch which allows all 120v to route to the inverter then to the load center - out of the Multi. It has a power assist feature which is amazing. You can select (I use a laptop) your a/c input source amperage down to 12 amps when on a small generator or up to the normal 30a depending on what you running on. That is just my opinion.

[Troutboy]

I went with all Vivtron components and have them installed for about 5 years now. They work great and I would recommend upgrading to them as well….. they also now have blue tooth connectivity if that is your thing or important to you…..

[Troutboy]

Oh, I was able to get five 100w panels on the roof, I have room for 1 more, and I have 200w on the ground if needed.. 320 amp hrs of battery, it works great in Colorado, Wyoming, Utah, etc…. I’m never challenged or out of power with this setup…. Could likely get by with 200 ahrs

[Bigboote]

Thanks for the input everyone. I appreciate the help. This will be my winter project.

[Rob Edgerton]

Originally Posted by SeaJim

If you've replaced a shower drain p-trap on a 23 FB I'd like to pick your brain a bit. The collar securing the trap to the exit pipe is cracked and p-trap needs replacing. Parts available are different than original equipment and access via the access panel is really limited. Would like to know how others have worked this out. Thanks!

Jim

We no longer have a 23FB (25RB now), but had the same problem. Go to Home Depot or any store with plumbing parts. You need a new tail piece and the P trap. Your new installation will be a slip connection to the tail piece instead of a glued connection. Why they don’t do this at the factory is beyond me! It breaks because it is rigid, and all the bouncing plus humans actually using the shower so the floor flexes eventually cracks the pipe. With the flex there is some give to things.

I posted photos of my before and after here on this forum about 3-4 years ago. Sorry I don’t have those photos to show anymore.

Hardest part was loosening the floor drain so you could put new tail piece on. If you take a pair of pliers upside down. The handles will fit in the floor drain from above. Use a Crescent wrench on the pliers and turn. The floor drain will come loose and you are on your way. New plumbers putty when installing. The tail piece will need to be cut fairly short.

If I find my old photos I will post.

Good luck.

[SeaJim]

Originally Posted by Rob Edgerton

Jim

We no longer have a 23FB (25RB now), but had the same problem. Go to Home Depot or any store with plumbing parts. You need a new tail piece and the P trap. Your new installation will be a slip connection to the tail piece instead of a glued connection. Why they don’t do this at the factory is beyond me! It breaks because it is rigid, and all the bouncing plus humans actually using the shower so the floor flexes eventually cracks the pipe. With the flex there is some give to things.

I posted photos of my before and after here on this forum about 3-4 years ago. Sorry I don’t have those photos to show anymore.

Hardest part was loosening the floor drain so you could put new tail piece on. If you take a pair of pliers upside down. The handles will fit in the floor drain from above. Use a Crescent wrench on the pliers and turn. The floor drain will come loose and you are on your way. New plumbers putty when installing. The tail piece will need to be cut fairly short.

If I find my old photos I will post.

Good luck.

Rob, thanks for the info! I think I saw your oldpost with photos and this clears up some questions I had. We’re on the road now but I may get back to you when we get back home. Happy Thanksgiving!

[mvmerc]

2013 FB International

Can anyone tell us where the fuse for the Propane Leak Detector is located on our trailer?

The actual detector is mounted below the refrigerator next to the main fuse cabinet.

[AlbertF]

Originally Posted by mvmerc

2013 FB International



Can anyone tell us where the fuse for the Propane Leak Detector is located on our trailer?



The actual detector is mounted below the refrigerator next to the main fuse cabinet.

It’s probably inline. You will need to follow the wire unless someone else knows exactly where it is.

Has the detector stopped working? Or is it discharging the battery when you’re not connected to mains power?

[51hunter]

It's inline and you can access it through the bottom panel for the water pump. Just follow the lead and you'll find it. Another option is to remove the unit from the front and access it that way.
I removed the fuse from mine due to the dog laying near it and it going off.

[Banks87]

We are considering a change to a 2023 23FB International.
-The black tank is much smaller than the 28. Does the bathroom sink drain to the grey or the black tank?
-Is the narrower width of the 23 significant in real life use?
-Does the newer, multi positional dining table improve the dining area comfort?

Thanks!