The 23D thread

[FloydCoVa]

Looks like the same. Mine kept pulling loose and retighting didn’t help. They just kept working loose. Well I put some toothpick pieces and wood glue and they stayed tight during our last camping trip last weekend to Hocking Hills, Ohio. Today I’m winterizing today as well.

[Rich W]

Originally Posted by FloydCoVa

Today I’m winterizing today as well.

Don't forget to close the outside shower taps before you waste 1/3 of your pink stuff. That's the 3rd time I've done that.

In my picture you can see there's a screw loose. I've owned this AS since early 2014 and we never had a screw come out. They seem to hold pretty well. On the other had, our slide out pantry slides out like it's warped, moving from the right side to the left. I've taken it out twice and replaced / tightened screws. That lasts about 6 months, then it moves again. It's the tracks, they keep slipping. I may use glue this next time.

[FloydCoVa]

Rich, last year while winterizing I left the front low point drain open and pumped most of a gallon on the driveway!

This is what I did to my pantry, not my idea, added a second slide to the second shelf. So far so good. Rob(RFP) came up with this and his write up is spot on. I’m not very handy with this kind of stuff but I got it done. Check it out.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f38/...3d-158887.html

[Rich W]

Originally Posted by FloydCoVa

Rich, last year while winterizing I left the front low point drain open and pumped most of a gallon on the driveway!

Oh good, it's not just me then. After I discovered I had dumped that antifreeze I closed the spigot, shook my head and realized I hadn't winterized the shower spigot. We don't use the shower much but I always run tap water through it to get rid of the antifreeze. I barely had enough to finish the job. At least now I don't have to store any over the summer.

Originally Posted by FloydCoVa

This is what I did to my pantry, not my idea, added a second slide to the second shelf. So far so good. Rob(RFP) came up with this and his write up is spot on. I’m not very handy with this kind of stuff but I got it done. Check it out.
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f38/...3d-158887.html

Rob is definitely a talented individual and comes up with all kinds of improvements. He has some good ideas on stabilizing the pantry slide. I'll save the link and add it to my list of things to do. When I retired I wondered if I'd find enough projects to keep me busy. Then I bought an AS and I've not rested since then.
(Rob's pantry looks to be about twice the width of ours. I think ours is about 6-8" wide, difficult to get into to tighten screws.)

[DavidaPeter]

We have the 2018 with a Couture Convection Microwave that's rated at 1500 watts. For the first year plus, according to our EMS, it pulled about 12 amps when microwaving.
Recently it's pulling 18-19 amps on microwave. That seems impossible.
Any thoughts of how to check this out? I'm concerned it may be dangerous.

[GMFL]

Originally Posted by DavidaPeter

We have the 2018 with a Couture Convection Microwave that's rated at 1500 watts. For the first year plus, according to our EMS, it pulled about 12 amps when microwaving.
Recently it's pulling 18-19 amps on microwave. That seems impossible.
Any thoughts of how to check this out? I'm concerned it may be dangerous.

You would need to verify the AMP draw with another meter independent of the rest of the trailer. Your EMS monitors the total AMP draw traveling through the trailer like the charger/converter.
Also AMPS are dependent on VOLTS. (watt=amp X volt)
So with that.
1500watts=18AMPs X ?VOLTS
Using this formula 1500W/18A=83 VOLTS.
So whats your volts to the trailer UNDER LOAD?
If it’s 120 volts. It Means W=18A x 120V. Your microwave is using 2160 watts
Based on the factory numbers your microwave should...1500=A x 120V. Draw. 12.5 AMPS

Best bet is to test the with a independent meter.

[Rich W]

Originally Posted by richw46

In the RV section of Lowes I found a replacement. I can use the good parts off of the old drain to keep some of the "chrome" look. The old drain is mostly plastic anyhow, should look good. The bottom part was too long for my AS, the original is a good fit.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Road-Home-C...Kit/1000458987

The Lowes drain is junk. We never even used the sink and the "chrome" at the bottom of the basin has separated from the drain. I used plumber's putty which may have been the reason, but there was no caution against it. I'm ordering a chrome plated steel one from eTrailer.com.
https://www.etrailer.com/p-PF282010.html

[GMFL]

Yep. I swapped both of mine (bath sink and shower). Found nice heavy chrome plated brass ones.

[FloydCoVa]

While winterizing the trailer and rereading the manual I ran across this. Could RV antifreeze be causing this?

[Rich W]

Originally Posted by FloydCoVa

While winterizing the trailer and rereading the manual I ran across this. Could RV antifreeze be causing this?

For me, I left a hand soap dispenser in the sink and it leaked. It sat there all winter before I noticed the soap had corroded the stopper and drain. It was chrome plated steel and I got a replacement at Lowes that was plastic. We never used the sink and when I winterized I noticed the "chrome" drain was moving. It had separated from the rest of the drain. I'm getting a chrome plated steel one from eTrailer, looks like the original.


The original had never corroded from antifreeze, I always wipe up any spills. I'm guessing the plumber's putty I used for the seal dissolved the plastic.

[GMFL]

I have the trailer demoed again...... re working my solar install and adding Rivnuts as I go. I also have relocated some wires and cut an access panel in the lounge seat so that maybe in the future I will not have to remove it again.
I also ran two new 12volt circuits, one for a 12 volt plug behind the Front TV and the other to the front spare tire area for running some future planned under glow lighting. Here’s a few pics.

[Meriwether]

Like many here, we were experiencing a great deal of heat build up in the exterior refrigerator compartment. This was transferring to the street side wardrobe. To help isolate the heat I started by adding insulation around the rear of the refrigerator.

Then I followed Rob's lead with the Masscool 140MM Fans, but wanted to mount them in a way so that they would not be in the way if the compartment needed to be accessed. These fans are so quiet you have to be right next to the compartment (outside) to hear them running.

I used some 1/16" thick C-Channel and Angled aluminum to make a frame to mount the fans, and then riveted the frame to some .025" thick aluminum sheet.

The sheet fits right inside the access door, tucked under the pop rivets at the top and secured to the latch with an extra latch nut, at the bottom. I also put some Velcro strips on the door to help hold things in place. When the door is closed the aluminum sheet actually gets sandwiched between the door and the inner moulding.

I installed this setup in the Spring and we've travelled some very rough roads since then and it's working out very well. I also believe our refrigerator is holding temperature better.

[RFP]

Originally Posted by Meriwether

< snip >
I installed this setup in the Spring and we've travelled some very rough roads since then and it's working out very well. I also believe our refrigerator is holding temperature better.

Well, dang, that's just gorgeous. I want to do that!

[Fair_Enough]

Originally Posted by Meriwether

Like many here, we were experiencing a great deal of heat build up in the exterior refrigerator compartment. This was transferring to the street side wardrobe. To help isolate the heat I started by adding insulation around the rear of the refrigerator.

Then I followed Rob's lead with the Masscool 140MM Fans, but wanted to mount them in a way so that they would not be in the way if the compartment needed to be accessed. These fans are so quiet you have to be right next to the compartment (outside) to hear them running.

M, can you tell me more about the latch at the bottom, please.
I love the craftsmanship and design. My 2-200mm fans block access and I need to make it better, so thanks for the motivation! Mine works great using a thermostat with inside switch, as well as insulating around the fridge also has made a difference. I actually looked (initially) at placing fans on the back of the louvered cover, but didn't think about mounting them onto a plate. What I did notice is that the fans being that close to the louvers, the air volume was reduced somewhat, air flow wasn't clean. Probably not enough to make much of a difference. I noticed you do have some spacing. I was thinking a shallow box.

The other issue I noticed is a better way to prop up that lid when needing access. Like a very light duty hatch lift??

Thanks for sharing,
Clint

[Meriwether]

[QUOTE=Wolfwhistle;2300653]M, can you tell me more about the latch at the bottom, please.

Hi Clint,

Originally I wasn't going to attach the fan assembly to the latch, but after some consideration I realized that anchoring to the latch would be a good thing.

From the inside door measurements I made a template for the aluminum plate. Once the template was cutout I removed the door latch, positioned the template inside the door and marked the location of the door latch hole.

From the template I transferred the outline to the aluminum sheet, and made a notch around the door latch. My notch is roughly 1" wide x 2" high.

I used a Dremel tool with a small cutoff wheel to cutout the aluminum sheet, including the opening for the fans.

The aluminum piece that anchors to the latch is 1/16" thick x 1.5" x 2.0".

Making a separate piece from thicker material is easier and offers more rigidity than putting the latch hole right in the aluminum sheet. I actually made the latch hole to match the latch; 3/4" Diameter with 5/8" wide flats.

If you make a mistake, which I often do, no big deal, throw the small piece away and start over.

Having a separate piece also allows you to position the latch opening on the sheet so that the top edge of the sheet tucks under the pop rivets at the top of the door.

Once the two pieces were positioned I clamped them together and drilled and riveted them together.

I added Velcro strips and an extra nut on the door latch to hold the assembly in place.

Hope this helps.

[GMFL]

Y’all think Halloween is Scary! That’s nothing compared to this......
don’t look if you have a weak stomach

[Fair_Enough]

Thanks a bunch.
Clint

[GMFL]

[QUOTE=Meriwether;2301167]

Originally Posted by Wolfwhistle

M, can you tell me more about the latch at the bottom, please.

Hi Clint,

Originally I wasn't going to attach the fan assembly to the latch, but after some consideration I realized that anchoring to the latch would be a good thing.

From the inside door measurements I made a template for the aluminum plate. Once the template was cutout I removed the door latch, positioned the template inside the door and marked the location of the door latch hole.

From the template I transferred the outline to the aluminum sheet, and made a notch around the door latch. My notch is roughly 1" wide x 2" high.

I used a Dremel tool with a small cutoff wheel to cutout the aluminum sheet, including the opening for the fans.

The aluminum piece that anchors to the latch is 1/16" thick x 1.5" x 2.0".

Making a separate piece from thicker material is easier and offers more rigidity than putting the latch hole right in the aluminum sheet. I actually made the latch hole to match the latch; 3/4" Diameter with 5/8" wide flats.

If you make a mistake, which I often do, no big deal, throw the small piece away and start over.

Having a separate piece also allows you to position the latch opening on the sheet so that the top edge of the sheet tucks under the pop rivets at the top of the door.

Once the two pieces were positioned I clamped them together and drilled and riveted them together.

I added Velcro strips and an extra nut on the door latch to hold the assembly in place.

Hope this helps.

Very, NICE WORK, Keith

[dbdreams]

Just got back from a trip to visit youngest son near LA. Talked him into meeting us at Big Bear.
Stopped at Joshua Tree NP for 3 nights of boon, er Rock docking, had a great time there. This was our first real boon docking experience and it went well. The Champion 3400 dual fuel genny ran the AC fine for the short time you can run a generator there, the factory solar kept the batteries toped off better than I thought they would. the only hitch that we have is running a cpap with what we had using the inverter was a heavy drain. Ordered a dc power supply when we got back and will add a 12v dc outlet near the bed. Any others running cpaps have other ideas?

[dbdreams]

Couple of other shots from our trip,
Stops at Gilbert Ray near Tucson, Painted Desert, Davis Mountains in west Texas