The 23D thread

[GMFL]

Anyone looking to purchase a 30 amp Smart Plug kit here is a great link to get it from. Like Rob said, I don’t think you can go wrong with this plug kit. 30% more surface contact and positive locking tabs.... great system.
Eric with TechnoRV offers Great Service, Fast shipping and has plenty of stock.
https://www.technorv.com/smartplug-3...t/?Click=11781

[Fair_Enough]

Originally Posted by GMFL

Anyone looking to purchase a 30 amp Smart Plug kit here is a great link to get it from. Like Rob said, I don’t think you can go wrong with this plug kit. 30% more surface contact and positive locking tabs.... great system.
Eric with TechnoRV offers Great Service, Fast shipping and has plenty of stock.
https://www.technorv.com/smartplug-3...t/?Click=11781

No doubt the product is better than the old L5-30 but I have never had overheating at that end of the cable... the other end is a different story. So, I wonder if I really need it? Is it "overkill"... LOL
Clint

[GMFL]

Originally Posted by Wolfwhistle

No doubt the product is better than the old L5-30 but I have never had overheating at that end of the cable... the other end is a different story. So, I wonder if I really need it? Is it "overkill"... LOL
Clint

I do not think it’s overkill, I was tired of the locking ring on the Furrion Plug always wanting to cross thread or bind up even with just a 1/4 turn to hold plug in place.
The smart plug lock in place with two locking clips (one on each side) plus incerts deeper into the plug base giving it a very solid “feel” when plugged in.
The stainless steel cover is much nicer than the OEM plastic one also.

[eagletoo]

Thanks for the SmartPlug Link, Ronnie.

I am following to see if you experience a lack of depth when installing your new receptacle. The thought of hacking away at the inside skin gives me shivers.

Good luck on the install.

[GMFL]

Originally Posted by eagletoo

Thanks for the SmartPlug Link, Ronnie.

I am following to see if you experience a lack of depth when installing your new receptacle. The thought of hacking away at the inside skin gives me shivers.

Good luck on the install.

I will do a very detailed blog post on the entire swap out.
I have seen some have problems with clearance of the back of the plug. Rob said no big deal, so I do not foresee any major headaches
Eric and his crew at TechnoRV are great they sell all kinds on cool stuff and have some great resource information! They are based here in Alabama
https://www.technorv.com/?Click=11781

[switz]

I replaced the plastic Furrion sockets with covers withe their stainless model on both trailers plus one in front for the 23D as we added the automatic transfer switch so the generator could be positioned at the front with a six foot power cord I made into the trailer. The so called locking ring keeps the water out of the connection when it rains. Also keeps a water tight connection when two of these cords are connected to extend the length of the cord and the connection is lying on the ground.

[KatherineHB]

Has anyone had the dinette area remodeled using the Grand Lounge conversion via Ultimate Airstream? We like the hydraulic table, extra storage, and the additional aisle width, but are weighing the cost and the need to find storage of the table top cushions.
We’re on the fence and would like to hear any 23cb owner opinions!

[FloydCoVa]

I’ll try to make this short!

I just installed a new converter...I think it went good still testing.this is how I found the leak. I moved the 23d to driveway to use the house electric to test the new Pd4655vl. So we are camping in driveway you know to test batteries on full charge to see how long they will last. No shore power, no water hooked up, turned battery switch on, lights, radio, fantastic fans water heater on gas, refridge on gas, all working great even turning on water pump to simulate water usage. battery showing 12.3 after 32hrs of simulation camping.

Now Im sitting out behind trailer and see a wet spot under sewer pipe! Both gray and black tanks are empty, drained two weeks ago. I open sewer cover...dry. So I look in side under vanity and find the water is leaking from city water hook up. I don’t have city water hooked up. I did tighten the connection on the in side maybe a quarter turn. Could this have been leaking all along and took this long to ceap down between the inter and outer walls thru the insulation the drip out side. For the last two weeks the camper was sitting in pole barn shut down, no wet spot out side under sewer pipes. I’m thinking when I started using the pump to simulate camping I pressurized the water Lines and it started leaking again.

Now what to do next? Assume my tighten 1/4 turn stopped it? Hard to see. And what about the water between the walls? Let dry on its own.

Thanks as always for your time to read and help! Scott

[RFP]

Originally Posted by FloydCoVa

< snip > Now what to do next? Assume my tighten 1/4 turn stopped it? Hard to see. And what about the water between the walls? Let dry on its own.

Thanks as always for your time to read and help! Scott

First, Scott, assume nothing.

Earlier this year, my brother had a leak problem with what sounds like the exact same symptoms. In his case, it was the inlet fitting that was leaking (yep, it happens!).

Of course, it could be the your quarter-turn tightenng made it well, but I would continue to watch closely.

If I were you, the next thing I would do would be to remove the four screws that hold the inlet fitting to the shell. Then, I would pull the inlet fitting as far out of the shell as the plumbing would allow. See what, if anything, is wet. Then, while the inlet fitting is still pulled away from the shell, attach a hose and pressureize the system with city water supply. That should reveal if the inlet fitting, or an of the associated plumbing, is the culprit. And, don't worry about it, it will have a happy ending.

[FloydCoVa]

Thanks Rob, that’s what I’ll do, loosen the screws and check it out. That’s a gasket and not caulk to put back together. Also if I open it from the out side maybe air will help dry it some. Maybe even do the same with the black tank wash? By the way it’s not dripping now, but i will check out the connections like you suggest. Thanks Scott

[RFP]

While you are working in that area, you might consider replacing the crummy-plastic vacuum breaker that is in the black tank flush system piping. Ours developed a minor (!) leak and I replaced it with a brass elbow. All-metal vacuum breakers are available too, if one wished to keep that in the system.

Of course, this has nothing to do with the leak you are now chasing.

[FloydCoVa]

I checked that awhile back when Ronnie I think had a water leak. If I’m not mistaking his leaked inside the trailer, Mine is brass. At the same time I took the back off my vanity and replaced it with clear plexiglass.

What do you think about the wet insulation between the walls? Maybe take the black tank flush off and blow some air in there. Maybe leave both off for a day or two to let some moisture out?

[FloydCoVa]

Also from the in side under the vanity I could feel the wet insulation around the water inlet fitting and also wet insulation around the black tank flush fittings as they are straight below the fresh water inlet. That’s why I think the water soaked the insulation all the way down.

[GMFL]

Scott,
As Roberto said, assume nothing and verify everything.
A 1/4 turn was probably the fix, but monitor and see.
Also there are 4 Phillips screws in the back of the city water inlet / pressure regulator. Make sure those do not need a snugging up.
Also consider the plex glass MOD to the bath cabinet so you can easily see what the heck is going on back there.

[FloydCoVa]

Thanks fellas, I took some pictures with my cell phone and I can see more clearly! Sorry for the turned pictures I guess I didn’t make them small enough. The pex crimps all look good and in the last picture I did the plexiglass mod and attached it with industrial Velcro. I think I’ll leave the outside water inlets off for tomorrow it’s going to be dry with almost no humidity. The four screws were all snug.

[GMFL]

Well I finally replace my factory seat foam with firmer Lux-HQ foam from Foam Factory www.foambymail.com. Took 2 hours start to finish and was a SUPER EASY project.
1. Lay old foam on top and trace
2. Cut out shapes with $9 electric carving knife from Walmart
3. Rap new foam in Dacron and attach with 3M Super 77 spray adhesive
4. Reinstall cushion coverer over new foam.

There was nothing wrong with the factory foam. It was just to soft for my liking.

If anyone would like the factory foam let me know. I am not going to save it.

[Meriwether]

Our 2017 is a month away from the end of the warranty and has developed a squeak in the floor.

This squeak is located in the area right in front of the ‘lav sink’, between the sink vanity and the bed.

If you are standing in front of the sink, or stepping into the bathroom you will most likely get this loud squeak, and my wife says it’s very audible from outside the trailer.

I’m wondering if the sub-floor has come loose or if there is a seam in the sub-floor plywood in this area?

When I step into this area it doesn’t feel soft or mushy, but feels like there is a small amount of movement and you get this loud squawk.

Does anyone know how the floor is constructed and whether or not there is a seam in the sub-floor in this area?

We are scheduled for service but it would be nice to be equipped with some knowledge before we take it in.

[Meriwether]

In an effort to create more storage space for clothes, I searched Airforums and found this idea and decided to give it a try.

We tried it out this summer and love it. In addition, the use of packing cubes makes it really easy to get your clothes from the house to the trailer. The cubes also keep your clothes organized while you are on the road. My wife uses black cubes and I use blue cubes, so it makes finding your clothes easier.

The beauty of this is that there is no modification to your wardrobe and the shelves can be removed without leaving a trace.

I'll add some detail to make the project easier to implement.

Measuring at the bottom of the curbside wardrobe, the depth of the wardrobe is 21 1/2". As you move up, the exterior wall tapers inboard, and the depth decreases.

Consequently using the 20" Rubbermaid wire shelving meant that my top shelf could not be any higher than 32".

Based on the measurements I added three shelves and spaced them from the bottom: 8", 12" and 12". The height of the compartment is 44", so this leaves a 12" space at the top.

I used a piece of cardboard to make a pattern. You can use paper and actually do this on the (outside) bed side of the wardrobe wall. Transfer the pattern to a 2' x 4' sheet of 3/16" white Marker Board (reverse the pattern for a mirror image of the opposite side) to make both sides to support the shelving.

I used some 3/4" x 1 1/2" fir strips to make the supports for the shelving and notched them for a nice fit and then applied paint.

Since I didn't know if we would like the spacing of the shelving, rather than glueing the strips in place, I used (5) flat head wood screws to secure each strip to the hardboard.

I also picked up the little plastic end caps for the shelving ends. These help wedge the shelves in and keep the metal ends from digging into the hardboard.

Install shelves from the bottom and work up. Since the exterior wall continues to taper in, I had to flex the top shelf a bit to install it, but got it in without bending the shelf.

For additional space, using Command Hooks and Velcro, my wife added some wicker baskets on the outside of the wardrobe.

[RFP]

Originally Posted by Meriwether

Our 2017 is a month away from the end of the warranty and has developed a squeak in the floor.
< snip >

I understand! We have a bit of an on-again-off-again squeak just about in front of the kitchen sink. We've decided to regard it as a charming quirk

I am pretty much convinced that it results from some spooky interface between floor and cabinetry. Of course, it never squeaks while in my driveway!

[FloydCoVa]

Ours has a squeak near the sink also but goes away when we raise the stabilizer jacks.