The 23D thread

[FloydCoVa]

Got it... fuse for dimming lights! Once again thanks.

[pcskier]

[QUOTE=GMFL;2271251]
Turns out it’s for the rear ceiling light dimmer switch. I also checked the front dimmer and there is a fuse in the wall there also.
[/QUOTE
Let's hear from the electrical engineers. Why would you need a 10 amp fuse for 4 LED lights that surely draw less than half that on full power? Plus there is already a fuse on in the 12v section of the power center for the lighting. The dimmer is somehow a factor I guess, requiring this 'double fusing?'

[GMFL]

Took down a soaked my front curtains in 20 mule borax yesterday. Result was amazing. Curtains came clean as new. They really look GREAT! I had no idea they had gotten that soiled.
Anyway, now that they are spotless I would like to keep them that way. I was thinking about treating them with Scotch-Guard..... before I rehang them.
Any one have any advice?

[RFP]

[QUOTE=pcskier;2271358]

Originally Posted by GMFL

Turns out it’s for the rear ceiling light dimmer switch. I also checked the front dimmer and there is a fuse in the wall there also.
[/QUOTE
Let's hear from the electrical engineers. Why would you need a 10 amp fuse for 4 LED lights that surely draw less than half that on full power? Plus there is already a fuse on in the 12v section of the power center for the lighting. The dimmer is somehow a factor I guess, requiring this 'double fusing?'

I would bet that the 'hidden fuse' is part of the switch/dimmer/plate assembly that Airstream buys from their supplier. There is no electrical need for it to be there, the circuit is already protected by the fuse in the main panel. Actually, the 'fuse in the panel' is in the preferred place as it provides fused protection for all the wiring between the panel and each fused device. The 'hidden fuse' would only protect the LEDs on the switch/dimmer. A large (20A ~ 30A) fuse could be put into the 'hidden fuse' location without one bit of loss in protection, the panel fuse provides fully-fused protection.

[RFP]

OK, this has absolutely nothing to do with Airstreams, but I thought these were really super-cool...

Bought at the Post Office this morning:

[Fair_Enough]

Pcskier,

Not an electrical engineer but I did sleep at Holiday Inn.

I think you’ve got the answer. They Connected via the fuse that the dimmer came with. I think that circuit with 4 ceiling spots draw about 0.4 Amps. 10 amps is probably the maximum load that dimmer can handle.

Clint

[Rdavenp3]

Just got back from our first long 3 week trip in our 23D from Michigan to Colorado and back (over 3,000 miles total) and everything went very well. The only problems we had were a panel fell of the end of the overhead cabinet, the latch to the main Zipdee awning went missing in week 2 and the latch broke in the under bed storage door (why it is cheap plastic and every other one is metal?). We boondocked the whole time in Colorado and after staying in campgrounds near the highway for 2 nights on the way out, were ready to enjoy the peace and quiet! Colorado has some incredible back country spots to camp if you're not afraid to go up and down mountain roads, some narrow enough that someone is going to have to back up to a pull off if you are coming from opposite directions. Only had to do that a couple of times but having a perfect mountain view or being next to a creek are worth it! Both my wife and I did not feel cramped at all in the Airstream and we both enjoyed how easy it was to tow down the highway or up the side of a mountain. We can't wait for our next adventure!

[Rich W]

Anyone ever replace the sink drain and stopper in the oval vanity sink? Is that just a standard plumbing part available at a place like Lowes or Home Depot? Ours is rusting because a hand soap dispenser leaked during storage.

[GMFL]

Originally Posted by richw46

Anyone ever replace the sink drain and stopper in the oval vanity sink? Is that just a standard plumbing part available at a place like Lowes or Home Depot? Ours is rusting because a hand soap dispenser leaked during storage.

I would be interested in the part number if you find it.

I found this one.
https://www.etrailer.com/RV-Bathroom...77-000131.html

[Rich W]

Originally Posted by GMFL

I would be interested in the part number if you find it.

I found this one.
https://www.etrailer.com/RV-Bathroom...77-000131.html

That one looks pretty good.


I'm not sure Airstream understood my question to them. I was asking about the vanity sink and their reply referred to a basket. I'm no plumber but that sounded like the basket for the stopper in the shower. Maybe basket is the official plumbing term.

They said I could contact an Airstream dealership about a replacement or to use a household replacement, as long as the same thread pattern, size and it makes a good seal with the sink. It would probably be better if I just keep searching my parts manual for it. I will post if I find it.

An Airstream Dealership should be able to order a good replacement for that basket. Otherwise, I would imagine that a household replacement would work as long as it has the same thread pattern and size, and you can get a good seal on the sink. -Mike

[switz]

I think you may be expecting too much of an Airstream dealership parts room to be able to order the correct part at any time. I gave up on the dealer network for parts. There are independent shops that get it correct the first time without a million excuses for ineptitude.

[GMFL]

Lou,
How are you and your wife feeling? Hope recovery has gone well.

[PKI]

Thanks for the fuse info. Suspect it's common to other models. Cool lights. Pat

[switz]

Thanks for asking.

She still has aphasia issues, occasional dizziness and balance issues. She is a typical Brit that minimizes her issues and gets on with it as best she can.

The doctor has released me for the broken bones with the caveat that they will not be back to full density and fully repaired for perhaps a year due to my age (74). I still get twinges of pain from the surgery area, but do what I can every day.

I declined to be President of our Airstream Park for a second term as I realize things are not the same between my ears and I lack the energy I had pre-accident to help with the manual work the membership does here to maintain the place. The memory issues are most baffling and I wonder if being knocked out for the over an hour of surgery vaporized some brain cells.

We have had our Classic parked at the RV park for the summer. I tried to work on the 23D electrical issue while I had the cast on and that was a joke. Would have made a comedy movie. So when we go back down 1 September, I plan to do more research on the electrical issue since I can move better.

The crowd here has sure continued to have great ideas and solutions to problems.

[RFP]

Originally Posted by switz

I think you may be expecting too much of an Airstream dealership parts room to be able to order the correct part at any time. I gave up on the dealer network for parts. There are independent shops that get it correct the first time without a million excuses for ineptitude.

I'd bet lunch-for-a-month that Lou is right for 99% of all Airstream dealers. But, Airstream of DFW has a absolutely fantastic parts person: In the world of Airstream parts support, "Trish" is a national treasure!

https://www.airstreamdfw.com/rv-parts

[RFP]

So, I should be grown up enough to know this stuff, but I could use a bit of wise counsel.

"Fortune Cookie" (2014 23D) is fitted with Michelin LTX M/S2 tires (now just into their 4th season).

Lou (Switz) runs his tires (which I believe are the same as these) at 44 PSI. I've been doing the same following his recommendation. I hope he pops in here.

So, getting ready for our annual trip to the Durango, Colorado area, I have all 4 tires at 42 PSI @ 100-degrees F. Since we will be driving over the scorched earth of Texas and New Mexico, I'm think it is probably good to leave those pressures as-is; my thinking is that as the tires heat from rolling resistance, they will soon have higher pressures than the current 42 PSI... and the Switz-recommended 44 PSI.

By the way, the load limit per sidewall is 2,183 pounds @ 50 PSI. The trailer's CAT scale weight (hooked up and packed up) is 4,680.

So, my mighty mentors, what should I do.

Gratzi!

[Fair_Enough]

Originally Posted by RFP

So, I should be grown up enough to know this stuff, but I could use a bit of wise counsel.

"Fortune Cookie" (2014 23D) is fitted with Michelin LTX M/S2 tires (now just into their 4th season).

Lou (Switz) runs his tires (which I believe are the same as these) at 44 PSI. I've been doing the same following his recommendation. I hope he pops in here.

So, getting ready for our annual trip to the Durango, Colorado area, I have all 4 tires at 42 PSI @ 100-degrees F. Since we will be driving over the scorched earth of Texas and New Mexico, I'm think it is probably good to leave those pressures as-is; my thinking is that as the tires heat from rolling resistance, they will soon have higher pressures than the current 42 PSI... and the Switz-recommended 44 PSI.

By the way, the load limit per sidewall is 2,183 pounds @ 50 PSI. The trailer's CAT scale weight (hooked up and packed up) is 4,680.

So, my mighty mentors, what should I do.

Gratzi!

I would say Lou has a handle on this. I wouldn't be concerned about a few PSI either way.

I started RV'ing going by bad advice and inflated to the max PSI shown on the side wall. I have learned a little since then.

What I think I know... first the XL rated Michelin has to be derated by a factor of 1.1 because they put a car tire on a trailer.... meaning the actual max load is 1985# at 50 psi. That would apply to each pressure vs. load along the load chart for XL (extra load).

Because most don't know the actual weight per tire, me included, it is a guessing game. The idea is to find the heaviest weight tire on each axle and inflate to the recommended PSI per Michelin load / inflation chart both tires on that axle.

To take loaded-for-bear trailer weight less tongue weight then divide by 4 is what most do, but it isn't correct.... technically. But going to a higher than load than a tire might weight (to err towards caution) should make this a mute point.

If I did that for my 23FB, I would only need 25 PSI to carry that estimated weight (rated 1270#). So, I arbitrarily go to 40 PSI cold, so that my worse case guess, based on a wing and a prayer, is no tire has more than 1660#, which requires 40 PSI, per the chart. I could probably run 30 to 35 PSI, but I just can't bring myself to do that.

As far as increasing pressure as the tire heats up, I monitor the temperatures, but let them do what they want to do, unless one is higher than the rest by a margin. Setting the pressure before the trip is correct. I see PSI increases of 4 to 5 on the AS, but the old Toy Hauler could increase 10 PSI and I didn't worry about that.

I hope you have a safe and happy trip.

Clint

[switz]

I have seen a ten psi increase in pressure as the the tires warm up on a summer day. The point is that when the tire was at ambient temperature in the morning, the pressure was correct. Here are the numbers for our fully loaded and modified 23D using my two sets of four wheel scales:

Tongue………928
Front….1,280……1,246 - total front axle 2,526
Rear…..1,376……1,233 - total rear axle 2.609
Total Axles………5,135
Total Trailer….6,063

The reason the curb side rear has less weight is we replaced the stock 6 gallon water heater with a Truma instant on water heater on saving nearly 50 pounds but added a 10" Rocky Mountain mattress that added weight over the stock mattress. The refrigerator is now a marine unit with a 12Vdc freon compressor which weighs slightly more than the stock Dometic. And it was full of food.

Andy Thompson at CanAm in London, Ontario, Canada has installed literally thousands of the 15" Michelin tires and recommended the 44 psi. I ran 44 psi when that same size tire was on our 2013 25FB International Serenity that had a GVW of 7,300 pounds and was 6,900 pounds camping ready. The tongue weight was 1,175 pounds with the Hensley Arrow hitch head and the Tekonsha Prodigy RF brake control mounted on the "A" frame. Thus the tires were supporting around 5,725 pounds or under 1,500 pounds per tire. The 15" Michelin numbers actually would work on the 27/28 Airstreams models as well.

[FishByFly]

Originally Posted by richw46

That one looks pretty good.


I'm not sure Airstream understood my question to them. I was asking about the vanity sink and their reply referred to a basket. I'm no plumber but that sounded like the basket for the stopper in the shower. Maybe basket is the official plumbing term.

They said I could contact an Airstream dealership about a replacement or to use a household replacement, as long as the same thread pattern, size and it makes a good seal with the sink. It would probably be better if I just keep searching my parts manual for it. I will post if I find it.

An Airstream Dealership should be able to order a good replacement for that basket. Otherwise, I would imagine that a household replacement would work as long as it has the same thread pattern and size, and you can get a good seal on the sink. -Mike

For my sink replacements, I’ve looked for a bit bigger and higher quality. I used a deep round stainless bar sink on my last trailer. Large enough to soak and washout clothes. Ordered that online. I’ve been successful finding drain line components following the airstream plumbing at big box stores. The two go together just fine.

[RFP]

So, following our usual get-outta-town protocol on our way from Hurst to Colorado, we drove the 190 miles to Food left, Texas. On arrival, the temperature outside was 107 with a strong southerly wind. Inside the Airstream it was a much more pleasant 106 !

We're waiting for it to cool down in here a bit...