The 23D thread

[GMFL]

Rich,
Here’s my thoughts on that.
“If” Airstream was smart enough and had the fore thought to calculate CFM needs of the gray tank area and “If” Airstream were to implement that calculation into their design, I do not think they would use the vinyl floor with a rough cut razor knife stab as a regulating baffle. I could be wrong though.......
The duct is 2” and the hole cut in the floor is 2”.......
Also when I changed out my freshwater tank the 2”duct for that tank was wide open (see photo)
There is no return air vent from the gray tank area so once the pan is “pressured”. Only the air leaking out of the pan will create the CFM exchange rate.( Which will not be a lot) The back pressure created by this should prevent a drop in flow to other vents.
By opening up the vent hole I am allowing the best chance for heated air to enter around the tank.
This is just another botched job by you know who......

[GMFL]

Here’s a pic of the bathroom sink guts. Vanity removed.

[Troutboy]

Thanks for sharing this Ronnie. How did you notice the leak?

[SSquared]

While you are in there it is not a bad idea to snug the four Phillips screws on the back of the city water inlet. If they are loose you can get a leak when the water pressure gets high.

[GettinAway]

I wonder if AS scientifically placed a given number of openings in strategic places to get just the right amount of air around that freshwater tank. I’m sure they computer modeled it with an air/fluid dynamics program.
Not sure when I’ll get to all my duct work, but I now know it can be better.

[GMFL]

Originally Posted by Troutboy

Thanks for sharing this Ronnie. How did you notice the leak?

Last trip out I had a small drip from the back of the street side wheel well. Looked under vanity and was able to feel the insulation wat wet around the city water hook up. I tighten it on site but after returning home I decided to open the can of worms and remove the vanity for closer insection and so I could get a fan in there to make sure all was dry.

[GMFL]

Originally Posted by SSquared

While you are in there it is not a bad idea to snug the four Phillips screws on the back of the city water inlet. If they are loose you can get a leak when the water pressure gets high.

Thanks for the heads up. I did that also. I was able to get an 1/8 turn on them without risk of over torquing.

[tinbender]

First problem ever with my trailer was leak on city water inlet. Tightened it and all was good. Hard part was seeing anything, so I decided to make a see-thru access panel that would allow me to easily check on all that plumbing when I wanted to. Removed the wooden back piece of the vanity top shelf and put a piece of 1/8" plexiglass in it's place. Clear view of all without taking anything out.

[tinbender]

No idea why photo posted twice......

[FloydCoVa]

I picked these up yesterday...

[GMFL]

Originally Posted by FloydCoVa

I picked these up yesterday...


Attachment 324956

Scott,
That’s AWESOME!!!! And FUN!!!

[Troutboy]

Originally Posted by tinbender

First problem ever with my trailer was leak on city water inlet. Tightened it and all was good. Hard part was seeing anything, so I decided to make a see-thru access panel that would allow me to easily check on all that plumbing when I wanted to. Removed the wooden back piece of the vanity top shelf and put a piece of 1/8" plexiglass in it's place. Clear view of all without taking anything out. Attachment 324953

Great idea!

[GMFL]

Thanks for the great idea I just happened to have a piece Lexan in the shop and before I put the vanity back in I swapped the cabinet backer like you showed to allow visual inspection of the plumbing. You guys gotta tell people when you have a great way to improve a design or make something easier to use. Don’t be shy. The 23D thread is rapidly becoming an encyclopedia of great ideas.
Here’s a few pics of what I did. Also you can note the gray tank heating duct with the vanity back in place.

[Fair_Enough]

Originally Posted by tinbender

First problem ever with my trailer was leak on city water inlet. Tightened it and all was good. Hard part was seeing anything, so I decided to make a see-thru access panel that would allow me to easily check on all that plumbing when I wanted to. Removed the wooden back piece of the vanity top shelf and put a piece of 1/8" plexiglass in it's place. Clear view of all without taking anything out. Attachment 324953

Excellent idea. I'm thinking where I could use this in a 23FB. Remember my vanity is in the back of the trailer... I looked down there today with a endoscope. Found a charger and a plastic bag. I am trying to plan how to bring the cable for a wired backup camera up behind the shower, into the vanity then drill to the outside close to the license tag. I would still have to run it on the surface of the belly pan from the tongue. I got cables, umbilical cord and camera today.

I also got a replacement rubber radio antenna tip. Like others report it looks to have simply fallen apart. I ordered one, but AutoZone has these.
WW

[RFP]

Originally Posted by Wolfwhistle

< snip >
I also got a replacement rubber radio antenna tip. Like others report it looks to have simply fallen apart. I ordered one, but AutoZone has these.
WW

Ooooooo... I need one of these, too, and, there's an AutoZone only about a mile away.

[RFP]

Originally Posted by GMFL

< snip >
Airstream had some kinda female to female pex adaptor in-line with the sink water hook up. I’m going to swap out for a crimped pex female connector straight to the pex supply line and do away with Airstreams gizmo. Also noticed Airstream did a not so wonderful job of crimping the male connectors. < snip >

This is bizarre. Mine has no goofy 'adapters' at all. Did you ever come up with a theory as to 'why' those things were there?

Also, I suppose that I've looked closely at every PEX crimp that is visible above the floor... all look very good with uniform spacing and secure crimps. The unit-to-unit variations among these trailers is astounding.

Oh, my gray tank duct had the exact same irregular, small hole through the vinyl floor covering. I'm positive that Airstream is doing this on purpose.

[RFP]

While I'm busying myself running a HDMI cable from the front television to the TV back in The Queen's Chambers, I've got the microwave out. I've taken the opportunity to photograph the "hardened" mounting for the microwave. Those 3/4" plywood triangles are epoxied inside he opening and there are Tee-nuts for secure mounting. Machine screws hold the microwave securely... I'll not be finding this sucker on the floor!

Of course, while I'm waiting for Amazon to drop by with my new HDMI cable, I did some "hardening" of the front television mounting (gee, I love tee-nuts!)

[Joannadannna]

Alright you guys are seriously on some sort of AS’roids. I say this with all due respect and admiration. The ingenuity and labor to do some of these outstanding mods is commendable and yet rather intimidating for those, like myself, who lack the skill set.

This question goes out to all of you overachievers and tinker-meisters - if you had to choose 2 ‘can’t live without’ upgrades on your 23D (cb) what would they be and why?

Perhaps narrowing down to a couple projects and contracting out might be useful info for us that don’t have aluminum thumbs.

[GMFL]

Hmmmmmm just Two????.............
#1. Robs slideout pantry extra counter top MOD
#2. 3” Lift with 15” Michelin tire upgrade and Dill TPMS. ( see what I did, I got three in one)

[GMFL]

<snip> This is bizarre. Mine has no goofy 'adapters' at all. Did you ever come up with a theory as to 'why' those things were there? <snip>

Only thing I can figure is the trailer PEX was Male and the faucet ends were male so they had to come up with an “easy” fix.