The 23D thread

[pcskier]

Originally Posted by Troutboy

Mine are the last year of the old Good years. I watch them close and have had no issues yet. I plan to go with the GY Endurance as I like the looks and so far have read good things about them. I know many use Michelin’s and prefer them. They are on my Truck and I have never had An issue with them. However, I think the P rating and ST design are better in the long run. I will put the GY Endurance on mine.

One other comment that gets people mad. I strongly feel that blowouts happen because the tire is mistreated or abused inadvertently. So many people say they run with the old GYs at 70-75 mph but they are only rated for 65. I check lugs, alignment, and pressure, and run at 65 max. No issues yet on this or any other trailer I have had.

But hey, I just jinxed myself so will likely have a blowout in next trip. If I do, then GY Endurance’s are going on!

Thanks Rich. I concur with your observations. It is clear that one of my marathons has something going on. When I first noticed it a couple weeks ago, I assume it was wear on one side of the tire all the way around. After getting it off yesterday, it was visible only at one spot on the tire, so there's something going on in there. Tire guy said he wouldn't drive on it 50 miles.



My wheels get here tomorrow, just two days! Shipping from just next door in Idaho though. I don't have install right away but I'd like to get on with it, so I'll make a decision this week.

[pcskier]

Originally Posted by Fred L

While youre at it, may be a good idea to also replace the lugs. I did that last week and wanted to make sure I had solid (non-capped) lugs as well as a locking lug on each wheel.

Fred, already replaced the lugs this week. I just went with ones from the tire shop, I know others get more expensive ones online, these seem time. They are chrome and they are solid! Buck each.

[pcskier]

Originally Posted by Troutboy

If I get the repair. I plan to drive out to Jackson Center from Denver as I have zero confidence in my local dealer to replace a panel. They don’t do good work.

Have you looked in to Timeless in Wheat Ridge? Close by and you could drop it end of season and avoid the big drive to Jackson. They have a stellar reputation for panel replacements as well as other restoration work. Assuming they can do warranty work. www.timelesstraveltrailers.com

[pcskier]

Originally Posted by GMFL

PK,

The wheel wells on our units are not the same on our units. My street side wheel well is about 1” shorter. That’s what Switzerland is talking about. I did not have to trim any metal but I believe the metal he was speaking of was the dark gray trim below the rubrail that extends into the well approx 1/2”-1”

I am running Michelin Defender Extra Load 235/75R15 at 50 psi using a Dill TPMS on Sendel TO3’s. I have a custom 3” lift now but ran these tire in my trailer before the lift and had 3/4” clearance at the front of the wheel well. Now with lift I have a little over 1 1/4” clearance.

These tires have been AWESOME and have performed flawlessly for close to 30000 miles in hot 100+ degree heat and tight turns on both asphalt and concrete.
With that said the Goodyear Endurance was not a available option when I made the swap.

Thanks for the feedback!

[Fred L]

Originally Posted by pcskier

They are chrome and they are solid! Buck each.

Sounds like my kind of lug

[Fred L]

Originally Posted by RFP

No, I didn't try bleach... I don't know how I would get it to where it would need to be..

Thinking further about it, if you put the plug in, you also gain access to put a piece of flex tubing in and use a syringe with flex turbing attached and then squeeze it in... or as you note run a cleaning wire down.

The only reason i mention it was due to the HVAC fellow saying that most AC drain clogs are caused by mold and the bleach disintegrates them without need for the wire to clear it.

[pcskier]

Originally Posted by Troutboy

Mine are the last year of the old Good years. I watch them close and have had no issues yet. I plan to go with the GY Endurance as I like the looks and so far have read good things about them.

I just noticed a used 2017 23d come across for sale, and one of the photos of the tire sticker states they are 14 inch. I guess it was 2018 model year that the 23 was upgraded to 15s? Have you upgraded to 15s? Just curious. My wheels arrive tomorrow so I've gone ahead and ordered up a set up Endurance...going to go with a ST rated tire and see how they do.

[RFP]

Originally Posted by Fred L

Thinking further about it, if you put the plug in, you also gain access to put a piece of flex tubing in and use a syringe with flex turbing attached and then squeeze it in... or as you note run a cleaning wire down.

Yep. Tomorrow, I'll probably go ahead and drill my drain "cups" and install 1/2" well nuts to close. While they are open, I will inspect visually and clear as needed. This should be super-easy.

Originally Posted by Fred L

The only reason i mention it was due to the HVAC fellow saying that most AC drain clogs are caused by mold and the bleach disintegrates them without need for the wire to clear it.

I'm surprised that the HVAC fellow said the bleach would "disintegrate" a mold clog. Bleach will, indeed, kill [most] mold growing on a non-porous surface, but usually a mechanical means is needed to actually clear the now-dead mold mass. But your real-world experience would seem to indicate otherwise.

[pkm123]

Hi,
Somewhere on this thread I think, I had read that one of the thread users had switched out the cheap plastic latch for the closet and pantry was switched for a brass twin ball adjustable latch. They also listed where they purchased them and supplied pictures. I have searched the threads but cant find the post. Can anyone help?
Thanks,
Ken

[GMFL]

Here you go
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[Troutboy]

Originally Posted by pcskier

Have you looked in to Timeless in Wheat Ridge? Close by and you could drop it end of season and avoid the big drive to Jackson. They have a stellar reputation for panel replacements as well as other restoration work. Assuming they can do warranty work. www.timelesstraveltrailers.com

Peter, I know about them and plan to,use them for anything once warranty is up. AS will not let them do warranty repairs for some reason. Wulfraat was able,to use his power and influence to get them to do the AC repair. Unfortunately, I don’t have that kind of pull.

[Troutboy]

Originally Posted by pcskier

I just noticed a used 2017 23d come across for sale, and one of the photos of the tire sticker states they are 14 inch. I guess it was 2018 model year that the 23 was upgraded to 15s? Have you upgraded to 15s? Just curious. My wheels arrive tomorrow so I've gone ahead and ordered up a set up Endurance...going to go with a ST rated tire and see how they do.

My 2017 23d has 15 inch tires. GY marathons.

[pkm123]

Thanks, GMFL,
Have you actually used the latches and if so, do they hold better than the plastic ones that come with the AS.
Ken

[pcskier]

Originally Posted by Troutboy

Peter, I know about them and plan to,use them for anything once warranty is up. AS will not let them do warranty repairs for some reason. Wulfraat was able,to use his power and influence to get them to do the AC repair. Unfortunately, I don’t have that kind of pull.

That’s a shame. I guess AS wants to support the dealers for warranty business. A trip to the factory would certainly be cool, but man it’s a long drive! 1300 miles or something for you? But if you have a list of warranty items, I guess you can make it worthwhile and enjoy the tour etc.
And as a sidenote, it is interesting that other than the factory, the top rated panel replacement vendors are not dealers, such as C&G in Bellflower California, Timeless, and Vinnys Northbay airstream. None of the dealers that I am aware of get the rave reviews that those vendors get. Kind of interesting.

[mutcth]

Originally Posted by Fred L

Tom, is this the tire you mention ? Good price and free shipping.....


https://www.walmart.com/ip/Nokian-cL...Tires/50295843

That's exactly the tire - and exactly how I bought mine.

Tom

[GMFL]

Originally Posted by pkm123

Thanks, GMFL,
Have you actually used the latches and if so, do they hold better than the plastic ones that come with the AS.
Ken

I have and they work very well

[trumpetguy]

Originally Posted by RFP

Sure, Rich, I'll give it a try with 'narrative,' and if that doesn't work I'll do it again with photos (later, more about that to follow).

For starters, Fantastic Fan makes about a g'zillion different iterations of their product. I've attached a photo of ours below just to serve as a reference. The wiring of the switch to provide for reversing the motor will be the generally the same for all models, however some of the wiring 'details' may vary. So, here goes:

1. Remove the fuse. Don't loose it!

2. Remove all the screws holding the switch panel to the frame. In ours, there are 5 screws, plus one holding on the black knob. This will allow the switch panel assembly to drop down and just hang from the attached wires.

3. Look at it! First, identify the wires going to the fan MOTOR. They are easy to locate inasmuch as they immediately 'disappear' upward into the fan assembly. There is a RED one coming directly off the speed controller. There is a WHITE one coming directly off of the switch. Go ahead and wrap a piece of blue painters' tape on these two wires, then DISCONNECT them and let them hang loose (yeah, baby, hang loose... couldn't resist ).

4. Remove the "UN-TAPED" wire from the original switch. Then, pushing on the springy tabs on each end of the ON/OFF switch, pop it out of the switch panel.

5. Pop the new reversing switch into the panel. It doesn't matter which way it goes in.

6. Take the white wire that you just removed from the original switch and attach it to either of the CENTER push-on terminals of the new switch.

6a. Your new switch should have ONE wire attached now.

7. Attach the white wire that goes directly to the fan (the one with the blue tape, remember?) to either of the END TERMINALS of your reversing switch.

7a. Your new switch should have TWO wires attached now.

8. Using 1/4" female push-on terminals, run a jumper wire (approximately 12" long) from the OTHER center terminal on the new reversing switch over to the terminal on the sped controller where you removed the red wire in Step 3.

8a. Your new switch should have THREE wires attached now.

9. Now, using 1/4" terminals - one male, one female - run a jumper wire from the red wire that goes directly to the fan to the remaining open terminal on the end of your reversing switch.

9a. Your new switch should have FOUR wires attached now.

10. With the switch in the CENTER, OFF position, replace the fuse.

11. Before securing everything, test your work. You know what it's supposed to do. BE SURE to allow the fan to come to a complete STOP before switching directions. If you don't, you will surely blow the fuse (it's just the way these little motors work... it's normal).

12. If it doesn't work, call me... you have my number.

Go get 'em

Like so many projects my wiring is way different in the fan. Two red wires from the switch to a circuit board. Two black wires from the circuit board up to the motor. One red wire from the speed control to the motor.

Could the black wires have to do with the rain sensor?

Any suggestions are appreciated.

By jumper do you mean splice into the red wire from the speed control?

[trumpetguy]

Originally Posted by trumpetguy

Like so many projects my wiring is way different in the fan. Two red wires from the switch to a circuit board. Two black wires from the circuit board up to the motor. One red wire from the speed control to the motor.

Could the black wires have to do with the rain sensor?

Any suggestions are appreciated.

By jumper do you mean splice into the red wire from the speed control?Attachment 313199

I was looking at the wrong switch. Still unclear as to how to attach the jumper.

[RFP]

Originally Posted by trumpetguy

Like so many projects my wiring is way different in the fan. Two red wires from the switch to a circuit board. Two black wires from the circuit board up to the motor. One red wire from the speed control to the motor.

Could the black wires have to do with the rain sensor?

Any suggestions are appreciated.

By jumper do you mean splice into the red wire from the speed control?Attachment 313199

The two red wires coming off of the switch BOTH go to a circuit board?

[GMFL]

Here’s a link to my latest Thread. Airstream Thinks like a cat......

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f474...ml#post2111521