The 23D thread

[DRBusse]

Interesting "inside skinny" on the RV experience at Disney World.

As a Disney retiree (37 years), I guess I should admit I've never visited the Florida resort. And as soon as the grandkids realize what that magic blue Disney pass card is in grandpa's wallet, I have a feeling we'll be making that trip...

[veg hed]

Hey guys, I know I'm an outsider because I have a 23FB but I'd like to figure this question out sooner than later. Here is the post:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f448...ed-182391.html

It looks like this is an active thread with a lot of expert advice so I hope you don't mind a question from a 23FBer.

[RFP]

Originally Posted by RFP

Well ratz!

Earlier today, I turned on the air conditioner in Fortune Cookie... Cools great.

But...

There's nary a drop of condensate dripping out of the drain tube in the wheel well. It's running off the roof!!!

I can [easily] blow through the drain tube which would seem to indicate it's not clogged.

Anybody else had this happen?

I guess I'll be taking the shroud off of the A/C to see what's going on

Bummer

OK, back to this crisis-du-jour:

Removing the outside A/C shroud (or cover), does nothing for this problem. The condensate drain tubing cannot be seen from above unless the whole A/C is lifted from the installation pan. Nope.

Anyway, I fixed at it and suspect that it's fixed for a little while. So, on the 2014 A/C that I have, there are eight very "unobtrusive" (that is, pretty well hidden, until you really look) that are removed to take down the inner A/C trim.

With the inner A/C trim off, the two clear plastic drain tubes and the "Tee" that ties them to the wheel-well drain outlet are easily visible. They looked pretty nasty. I separated one of the tubes from the Tee and tried to run a super-heavy week-whacker line through it... no dice. Then I used a piece of 12 gauge insulated solid copper wire and it poked through. Virtually zero water came out, though.

Satisfied that condensate water will not drip into the Airstream interior (the cup design is very cleaver), I buttoned the whole thing up. Done for the day. Thanks to all who answered.

[pcskier]

I just posted on your other thread. There are eight, unobtrusive "whats?" Screws, tabs?? I believe you dropped a word in your posts! I'd like to know just for future knowledge how to get the interior piece down!

[RFP]

Originally Posted by pcskier

I just posted on your other thread. There are eight, unobtrusive "whats?" Screws, tabs?? I believe you dropped a word in your posts! I'd like to know just for future knowledge how to get the interior piece down!

Good catch... I fixed it... check it out.

R

[pcskier]

I saw this in some friend's 2008 Ocean Breeze last weekend. I mentioned to them I was going to install a gas strut to hold the cabinet door open (as per the mod on this thread) and said I'd do theirs at the same time for them. They said a strut for what? Then showed me this---which was OEM. Theirs came with this. I guess AS at some point decided they could save a buck per unit, and we could just use our heads to hold them open.

Anyway...I kind of like this solution, but have had trouble finding this exact design. I've found other types online, that include a joint that you can adjust the tightness of. This one to me just seems the simplest. Either open, and locked in place...or, lift up the arm to close. Rob (RFP), do you know the specific name for something like this type. "Hatch Stay" or "Lid Stay" seems to be a bit too generic.




I also had the plastic latch that holds the galley upper closet door fail on me, with the plastic receiver piece breaking apart. As I embark on 'boondock-proofing' my 23D, I've ordered a couple packages of these brass ones, and will be installing them on the critical doors (Galley cupboards, the long one beneath the sofa (where I tend to store gallon containers of fresh water), the one under the roadside dinette bench, and probably the bedroom closets, thought they don't have anything very heavy in them. But I do sometimes put my photo tripod in one of them, or my laptop bag, and I could see those shifting on a rough road and pushing open the door. These are the same that are installed on the curved doors under the sink...not sure if those were OEM by Airstream, or from a previous owner.





PK

[RFP]

Originally Posted by pcskier

snip Rob (RFP), do you know the specific name for something like this type. "Hatch Stay" or "Lid Stay" seems to be a bit too generic.

Nope, don't know.

Attachment 312723

Originally Posted by pcskier

These are the same that are installed on the curved doors under the sink...not sure if those were OEM by Airstream, or from a previous owner.

Attachment 312724


PK

Those are OEM. You will notice the screwdriver slot on the end... you can adjust the tension by turning that screw thingy. They are very good latches.

[pcskier]

Originally Posted by RFP

Those are OEM. You will notice the screwdriver slot on the end... you can adjust the tension by turning that screw thingy. They are very good latches.

Indeed. Thanks for the feedback (and the fix on your other post re: removing the AC interior cover!)

[Troutboy]

In installed those brass guys all over my trailer. They work great.

Install tip. I put the female one on first. Loosen the screws. Then I place double sided tape on the male price and place it in the attached female one with loosened screws.

Then I shut the door and the male piece sticks to the door in the perfect spot.

I don’t even take it off, I just drill pilots and screw it in place.

[Troutboy]

Originally Posted by veg hed

Hey guys, I know I'm an outsider because I have a 23FB but I'd like to figure this question out sooner than later. Here is the post:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f448...ed-182391.html

It looks like this is an active thread with a lot of expert advice so I hope you don't mind a question from a 23FBer.

I do think those leads come from the battery. It would depend what you are connecting to the battery there and if the wires are sized appropriately.

What I would likely do if you can’t go directly to the battery is go to a buss bar first, one positive, one negative. Then run line from bus bar to your new wire and one to charger/inverter.

I would also wait for someone else to chime in. There may be issues putting another load on those ports. I normally see connections from there directly to the battery with no loads in between.

[GMFL]

Rob,
I had the same problem last year. Had to pull the unit. My problem stemmed from a broken barbed fitting on one of the drain pans which allowed water to drain on the roof. I was able to repair it with JB Weld water putty
https://www.jbweld.com/products/waterweld-epoxy-putty
I had Airstream send me a new set of drip pans and AC gaskets but have not installed them because my repair is still holding up.

[GMFL]

P.S.
We are home safe and sound. Loooooong 7hr drive home today after a nice breakfast at the Contemporary Hotel.
Great trip with some bouts of rain, but we managed.

Rob,
Snow White said she would look you up next time she was in Texas.

[veg hed]

Originally Posted by Troutboy

I do think those leads come from the battery. It would depend what you are connecting to the battery there and if the wires are sized appropriately.

What I would likely do if you can’t go directly to the battery is go to a buss bar first, one positive, one negative. Then run line from bus bar to your new wire and one to charger/inverter.

I would also wait for someone else to chime in. There may be issues putting another load on those ports. I normally see connections from there directly to the battery with no loads in between.

I ended up going straight to the batteries. I debated and figured I would just do what the AMsolar directions recommended. I have half the set up on and in. I ordered a new roof mount combiner box because I don't like the Refrigerator Vent mount box that came with it. I hope to finish the project up next weekend. Thanks.

[GMFL]

Planning on replacing my rubrail/ belt-line trim next week as mine is peeling pretty bad. Peeling due to me using blue painters tape to tape line for caulking the rube rail. Don’t think it was suppose to but when I removed tape some Crome came with it. (It was already peeling some but tape made it worse.)
Also new taillights as mine have a few LEDs that are not working and the clear red plastic lens is cracking. Not sure why it’s cracking as it is stored undercover and does not get hammered by the sun.

[RFP]

Originally Posted by GMFL

Rob,
I had the same problem last year. Had to pull the unit. My problem stemmed from a broken barbed fitting on one of the drain pans which allowed water to drain on the roof. I was able to repair it with JB Weld water putty
https://www.jbweld.com/products/waterweld-epoxy-putty
I had Airstream send me a new set of drip pans and AC gaskets but have not installed them because my repair is still holding up.

Aw man... Say it ain't so!

Did any condensate drip into your interior? I would be really surprised if it did.

Did you take any photos of your A/C pull, etc.?

Glad you made it home safe and sound,,, sure hope it was a magically great trip for all.

[SteveSueMac]

I don't this the tape is the problem with the run rail and belt line. Mine fell apart with no tape. Kind of crappy...had it all replaced at the factory while I was having some damaged panels replaced. Should last another 2 years [emoji20] [emoji3]

[RFP]

Originally Posted by GMFL

Planning on replacing my rubrail/ belt-line trim next week as mine is peeling pretty bad. Peeling due to me using blue painters tape to tape line for caulking the rube rail. Don’t think it was suppose to but when I removed tape some Crome came with it. (It was already peeling some but tape made it worse.)

Are you staying with the "chrome" stuff, or did you lot for another color?

[GMFL]

I m going to try the chrome again. I considered going with black, and if I have the same problem again then I will go with black.
AC pull, No photos but not a hard job other than weight of unit. “Two man job”
Once you find all the Phillips head screws from the inside cover there’s just 4 bolts holding the unit on.
NO drip inside. Mine was on the street side so my drip was right down beside the door at the awning end.

[GMFL]

Here’s a few pics. The one I repaired broke where the barbed tube comes out of the pan. Airstream sent me the whole kit, but Since my repair is holding I’ll just have some spare parts for the “one day”

[pcskier]

Originally Posted by Troutboy

In installed those brass guys all over my trailer. They work great.

Install tip. I put the female one on first. Loosen the screws. Then I place double sided tape on the male price and place it in the attached female one with loosened screws.

Then I shut the door and the male piece sticks to the door in the perfect spot.

I don’t even take it off, I just drill pilots and screw it in place.

I remembered reading that tip but couldn't remember where or who, and was going to look for it. Thanks for the reminder, great idea. Did you replace the black plastic ones, or leave them and add the brass ones to double up?