The 23D thread

[Troutboy]

Originally Posted by RFP

So, the switch (see quoted post, above) arrived yesterday, and this afternoon, I did the modification to the Fantastic Fan to allow reversing. Super-easy, took about 30-minutes (including the time it took to cut and terminate a couple of foot-long "jumper wires."



I am really surprised just how much air the fan moves when reversed from its (as supplied in our trailer) factory mode... kind of like ceiling fan. And, with the trailer all closed up and the rear fan "blowing OUT" and the front fan "sucking IN," the air movement through the trailer is prodigious!



I elected to make only the front fan reversible... the rear fan is relatively close to the plumbing vent, so I thought it best not to run even the slightest risk of pulling smelly air from the vest.



Highly recommended mod... easy and cheap!

Rob, does the fan make a strange noise when running in reverse? When I spin mine backwards it makes a clicking noise....

[Troutboy]

Originally Posted by GMFL

Great info. All it would have to turn is approx a 1/16th of a turn to be straight

It might be hard to avoid the old screw holes. You know, moving slightly and then trying to put screws in, they would want to go in the old holes.

[Troutboy]

Originally Posted by RFP

Rich, are you saying that there are 90-degree elbows between your toilet and black tank?

Hey Rob,

No. I added a right angle valve on the clean water inlet side, and then I added a 90 degree on the toilet inlet. After Ronnie posted, I went to Home Depot and got one like his, a straight valve, then went right to the toilet. Hope that makes sense.

[Troutboy]

Originally Posted by GMFL

Keep me posted. We are looking for a late summer trip.
Headed to Disney next Sunday

Man, if you go up there I gotta figure out how to as well. Even if just for a weekend.

On the Tulsa deal. Maybe we should make it for 2019, start planning now. My summer is filling up. If others still figure it out this year, I may be able to get er done.

[Troutboy]

Originally Posted by pcskier

Rob thanks for the switch details. I'm doing that plus the variable control switch.

Isn't the Smart Plug nice? Such a solid connection. Had on my 23FB, it's on the list for my 23d. Question: On my 23 FB, the back of the outlet contacted the inner skin and I couldn't get the front flush on the outside. The wiring on the back of the outlet added too much depth. I wish they designed it so the wires attached from the side, not through the back, requiring that tight bend, don't you think? Anyway--I had to get my roto zip out and cut a hole in the inner skin to provide space for everything to fit. It was below decks under a closet so it was not a cosmetic problem.

Did the outlet, when wired up, have enough space between the skins to fit flush on the outer skin on yours? That issue caused it to be a much bigger job on my FB.

Peter,

When I was doing the toilet install, I could see where the plug is. It’s underneath the pipes when you remove that aluminum piece I. The bathroom to get at the pipes. It looked like to me that there was a hole already cut to allow the existing plug room.

Pictures of the back of the plug below, I think.

[Troutboy]

Originally Posted by pcskier

Well I got my new 2014 23d home today and look what I found lol. Same thing! (Pic rotated 90 degrees). Crazy, it butts perfectly at the other end below the mattress where it isn't visible. It's too tight against the ceiling to move so it didn't slide down by itself. I cannot find a reason it is supposed to be this way. Closet ventilation ha? I think it's supposed to butt tightly up top, and leave the trimmed 3 inches down at the other end where you can't see it. That would save on material and every penny adds up. But the installers are not always positioning it properly when setting the cabinetry. Now I'll be staring at it every night when I lie in bed!
Attachment 311533

So, I looked at mine and I had two places where the trim was one inch or less from top ( trim on pantry wall next to stove at top, and the left wall of bathroom sink).

I am sending a note to AS, and requesting some length of the trim be sent and I will trim it and glue in place. I think that’s a good fix and will make it look decent. I could live without it, but might as well add these small pieces.

[Alces2]

Originally Posted by Troutboy

So, I looked at mine and I had two places where the trim was one inch or less from top ( trim on pantry wall next to stove at top, and the left wall of bathroom sink).

I am sending a note to AS, and requesting some length of the trim be sent and I will trim it and glue in place. I think that’s a good fix and will make it look decent. I could live without it, but might as well add these small pieces.

Last night sent the email to the dealer with pics and will let you know what they say. Didn’t realize it is a “common” problem. Trim is better term than moulding. We love the “design” of the Airstream and missing pieces inside just stare you down! Hoping that we do not find more major things wrong with her.

[GMFL]

Originally Posted by Troutboy

It might be hard to avoid the old screw holes. You know, moving slightly and then trying to put screws in, they would want to go in the old holes.

Fill them and drill new pilot hole is all I can think to do.

[RFP]

Originally Posted by Troutboy

Rob, does the fan make a strange noise when running in reverse? When I spin mine backwards it makes a clicking noise....

No, not at all. Could your fan blade be barely touching something?

[GMFL]

That’s what I was thinking Rob, like maybe the temp prob. Mine has rubbed there before. Just had to bend it up a bit.
Do you like the “Smart Plug” ?

[RFP]

Originally Posted by Troutboy

Peter,

When I was doing the toilet install, I could see where the plug is. It’s underneath the pipes when you remove that aluminum piece I. The bathroom to get at the pipes. It looked like to me that there was a hole already cut to allow the existing plug room.

Pictures of the back of the plug below, I think.

Attachment 311544
Attachment 311545
Attachment 311546

Yes, that is the back of the Furrion electric input connector.

The variations in these things continues to amaze me. In this case, your connector appears (from the photo) to very slightly protrude inward past the inner skin. My factory connector did not, suggesting that the distance between my inner and outer skins is greater. Also, the hole in your inner skin had edge trim... I haven't found a single hole in mine that is trimmed.

Looking at your photo makes me think that you will have to remove the inner skin plastic trim and enlarge the hole in the inner skin in order to get the Smart plug installed.

[RFP]

Originally Posted by Fred L

Finally had a chance to do some work on the AS this weekend. Removed the old batwing and installed a King Jack digital antenna, but did the easy install on the batwing mast.

Wow, you've been busy! I installed our King Jack the very same way... easy and works great.

Is the roof depression really that serious? I guess it could be easy to correct, but maybe not. I guess you won't know until you get the fan out. Keep us posted... with photos, too.

[RFP]

Originally Posted by pcskier

Did the outlet, when wired up, have enough space between the skins to fit flush on the outer skin on yours? That issue caused it to be a much bigger job on my FB.

Nope, mine was just like yours (grrrrrrr). The Smart plug would have fit (but just barely) without the little back cover thingy. So to give the thing enough room, I tucked the Romex safely inside and used a hole saw (big enough that it would just barely go through the hole in the outer skin). Was SUPER CAUTIOUS to stop as soon as through the inner skin... there is PEX an inch or so from the inner skin.

Also, I put a small piece of 1/4" neoprene on the wire right where it exits the connector, just in case it comes into contact with the inner skin.

[RFP]

Originally Posted by GMFL

That’s what I was thinking Rob, like maybe the temp prob. Mine has rubbed there before. Just had to bend it up a bit.
Do you like the “Smart Plug” ?

I do... it is VERY secure and the contacts have massive surface area. My OEM connector was always wiggly, even with the locking ring cranked down tight. Not so, this thing.

[RFP]

Originally Posted by GMFL

Headed to Disney next Sunday

Disney, Disney, Disney.... we want to go!

[pcskier]

Originally Posted by RFP

Nope, mine was just like yours (grrrrrrr). The Smart plug would have fit (but just barely) without the little back cover thingy. So to give the thing enough room, I tucked the Romex safely inside and used a hole saw (big enough that it would just barely go through the hole in the outer skin). Was SUPER CAUTIOUS to stop as soon as through the inner skin... there is PEX an inch or so from the inner skin.

Also, I put a small piece of 1/4" neoprene on the wire right where it exits the connector, just in case it comes into contact with the inner skin.

Thanks. Nuthin' ever simple. On my FB there wasn't even a hole on the inside. The wires to the furion went from back of plug then down between the skins and entered inside nearby, but not ride behind it, so I had to drill a pilot hole in the inner skin centered from the outside; then finished the job inside with a roto zip. Then relocated the wires to go through that hole. Lined the hole with rubber hose and prodigious amounts of duct tape. Very much worth the hassle though. Sounds like a little less hassle on 23d. I'll be doing it for sure, love the plug. Rob (trout) thanks for the pics--helpful to see what to plan for)

[RFP]

Originally Posted by pcskier

Thanks. Nuthin' ever simple.

Ain't it the truth... given my propensity to over-complicate almost everything, starting out with "challenges" makes it even worse.

Originally Posted by pcskier

On my FB there wasn't even a hole on the inside. The wires to the furion went from back of plug then down between the skins and entered inside nearby, but not right behind it, < snip >)

Same with our 23D (unlike Ronnie's, which clearly has a hole directly behind his connector). The 10-ga. Romex came to the connector from between the skins on the right side, so, I routed the wires from the new SmartPlug out the right side, too; still between the skins..

I'm in awe of you using a RotoZip inside that impossibly small opening... wow. I would have created a world class disaster.

[pcskier]

Originally Posted by RFP

I'm in awe of you using a RotoZip inside that impossibly small opening... wow. I would have created a world class disaster.

Well....you should have seen the hole. Even though on the FB there was plenty or room to work once I removed the supports for drop-in closet floor. Not my proudest moment. But my intention was to make it look like it was done in the factory, so the sloppy 'sort of round' shape of it looks OEM!!!! Yeah, yeah, that's it. In all seriousness, it was under a removable closet floor panel below decks where the water pump and other wiring is, so I wasn't as concerned about aesthetics as I normally am. Since I'm in the 2014 realm as well, I'm sure I'll find no hole like yours. I think I'll get a hole saw this time, that roto zip tends to wander.

[Troutboy]

Originally Posted by GMFL

That’s what I was thinking Rob, like maybe the temp prob. Mine has rubbed there before. Just had to bend it up a bit.
Do you like the “Smart Plug” ?

I will check. I do t think it’s hitting anything at all as the shroud is completely removed. I’ll take a video and post later so you all can tell me what you think.

[Troutboy]

Fred, on that depression. Try a plunger or Dentless repair suction cup. You might be able to easily pop it back up. We did this on a friends AS and the plunger worked like a charm.