The 23D thread

[Troutboy]

Cool Ronnie! Watch out for shading, that vent will knock all output from panel when it’s shadow casts on the panel....

[GMFL]

Originally Posted by Troutboy

Cool Ronnie! Watch out for shading, that vent will knock all output from panel when it’s shadow casts on the panel....

Thanks. Not many options. I think I’m going to put one front street side and one rear curb side and connect parallel and hope for 100 Watts most of the time. Panels will be tilted slightly to match curve of the roof. Nothing is mounted yet so any and all input is appreciated.

[switz]

The Airstream is like a pair of slippers. Originally they were shinny and stiff. Over time they soften up and become fitted to the foot. The Airstream starts as a clean slate and nearly everyone tweaks and modifies their unit to their individual tastes and requirements.

The various 23D specific threads allows folks to share their journey in customizing their trailer and sharing what works and what was not quite the success they hoped for when they started the project. We share our experiences so that others can get ideas.

Unfortunately, many of these great ideas turn into a short circuit for the wallet and we find that there really is no "free' lunch.

Enjoy the ride!

[Fred L]

Originally Posted by GMFL

Thanks. Not many options. I think I’m going to put one front street side and one rear curb side and connect parallel and hope for 100 Watts most of the time. Panels will be tilted slightly to match curve of the roof. Nothing is mounted yet so any and all input is appreciated.

Ronnie, maybe strange to hear, but I wish we had that much pollen here.... darn snow wont stop.
Not sure if its the pic angle, but looks like the panels are a touch wider than the ones I have seen so far ?
One of this years mods for me will be the new style TV antenna, hoping that will open space on the curb side for a panel (next year).
It may be a stupid question, but solar is all new to me. Do all the panels you put on the roof have to match in size and output? Or can you add different (narrower panels) for a hodgepodge collection to fit open space?

[warmrain]

Depending on the solar technology a small shadow may not shut down the array. When I was first researching for my sailing yacht (we live aboard) the technology was such that a small shadow from a rigging wire, the diameter of a pencil would shut the entire panel down. With the relatively new ones I've got on the boat up to about 20% can be shaded and they still produce.

Our 2013 23D is stored in an area without AC, the solar not only keeps the basics going when off the grid, it keeps the batteries charged so they won't freeze and I don't have to carry them back and forth to a heated area and a charger.

Both vessels have about 160 watts of solar.

[GMFL]

Originally Posted by Fred L

Ronnie, maybe strange to hear, but I wish we had that much pollen here.... darn snow wont stop.
Not sure if its the pic angle, but looks like the panels are a touch wider than the ones I have seen so far ?
One of this years mods for me will be the new style TV antenna, hoping that will open space on the curb side for a panel (next year).
It may be a stupid question, but solar is all new to me. Do all the panels you put on the roof have to match in size and output? Or can you add different (narrower panels) for a hodgepodge collection to fit open space?

Ok so what I know. My panels... renogy 100watt. I did some test and with the panel in the sun I can cover almost half the panel and still have around 14 volts out put. After that the more I cove the faster it drops off.

As far as panels needing to be the same. If they are connected parallel then yes they have to be the same if they are hooked in series then then do not have to be the same.

[Troutboy]

Ronnie. That’s a good strategy. I put up 500 expecting 200-300 any given time due to shade loss.

The other thing I did with two renogy panels like yours is create a 200 W portable suitcase. That way when we are in a nice shaded spot, I can deploy the renogy where I need.

Have you considered not attaching them to the roof and using as portables?

It helps that I now have a truck with the space to carry them. Just a thought.

[Troutboy]

I never posted a pic of my new rig, or maybe I did but I am getting old and forgetful.

3000 miles in a really like this and will likely never own anything but a truck. I am getting 19 mpg combined driving which is better than my last JGC.

Looking forward to towing the AS soon for the first time.

[GMFL]

Love the ride Rich.
Prob going to mount these and get 2 more for a suitcase set up. What charge controller did you use. I’m looking at the victron 100/30 with Bluetooth.

[switz]

To help set expectations back to the real world reality, Solar panels are sold with a theoretical capacity that one would never see in use. The real world output is at best 75% of the number shown in the sales literature.

So our five 100 watt panels on the 23D might be capable (on a perfect sun angle, clear and bright day) of creating 375 watts. We have seen 350 watts.

Our Classic with nine 100 watt panels (we have the same model AM Solar panels on both units) might create 675 watts. We have seen just over 600 because of the fact that the panels are not perfectly level.

One is wise to acquire panels with identical voltage output so the system does not drop back to the output of the lowest panel. Also using a MPPT controller will maximize every watt available. We use a Tr-Star 60 MPPT Solar Charge Controller on the 2014 Classic as it could handle the nine 100 watt panels. A 10th panel would push it past it's rating.

We use a Blue Sky Solar Boost 3024iL to control the output of the five panels on the 23D.

The Classic has a Magnum MS-2812 inverter/charger and the 23D has the hybrid Magnum MSH-3012 converter/charger. The hybrid can pull current from the lithium battery to help start the A/C when running on one 2,000 watt Honda generator.

[bbandeddie]

Originally Posted by switz

We installed the Truma AquaGo comfort model water heater in both of our trailers. The is the mid model of three. The base model does not have a freeze proof feature. The top model is designed for a hot water recirculating system like in a house. It would really burn thru a tank of propane in a hurry.

I’m assuming the factory water heater cavities are the same in most Airstreams so the question I have is: Does the Truma fit into the existing cavity and exterior wall cutout nice and clean or is there minor to significant modifications required? I.e., is it a straight drop in replacement?

[Troutboy]

Originally Posted by GMFL

Love the ride Rich.

Prob going to mount these and get 2 more for a suitcase set up. What charge controller did you use. I’m looking at the victron 100/30 with Bluetooth.

Ronnie,

I used the Victron 100/50. The 30 should work fine with your panels etc. not sure the price difference, depends on how many panels you plan long term.

You will love the Bluetooth. You should get the BMV712 as well.... both connect to your phone and give you real time info....

[switz]

The Truma form factor is a like a cube that is smaller than the Dometic that was removed. So the installer put in two “studs” either side of of the opening and added some Airstream skin. The depth was slightly less than the Dometic so the plumbing was not an issue. The supplied Corlan plastic frame covered to the metal work necessary to make the opening smaller.

As I am out on the road, there is no way to post the photos (I have them stored in Dropbox) as I am using my iPad.

We used the original switched 12Vdc power coming from the original water heater switch and wired the red light to be on when the power is applied to the water heater. One must remember to turn this switch on in addition to the rocker switch on the water heater itself. If there is mental pfft about that inside switch, it is possible to spend several hours trying to figure out what is wrong with the water heater........ and chasing back the power cable.......and dis-assembly of the water heater......

[GMFL]

Originally Posted by Troutboy

Ronnie,

I used the Victron 100/50. The 30 should work fine with your panels etc. not sure the price difference, depends on how many panels you plan long term.

You will love the Bluetooth. You should get the BMV712 as well.... both connect to your phone and give you real time info....

Thanks. Working on one in the classifieds now! Not sure if it is Bluetooth ready. May have to get the dongle (man that’s a funny word) to go with it.

[switz]

Here are the installation photos for the Classic. The finished unit is on the 23D.

[bbandeddie]

That looks great! Thanks for the photos.

[GMFL]

Had a chance to close up my rear fan and get a wire out on the roof for my solar install. Here’s a few pics.

[GMFL]

Going to use the 10ga wire Airstream provided and I ran 10 ga 3 CONDUCTOR tray cable out on the roof and put MC4 connectors on it. Blue wire in pic is being used as a ground. I know it’s not needed, but because I mounted panels with VHB TAPE and ALPHA-ONE / DICOR the panels do not touch the metal roof (so I grounded the panel frames). Overkill I’m sure.

I know that there will be lots of haters out there about using the factory wire but I’m only putting 200 watts of solar on roof and my (2) Trojan T105 battery’s are not a huge battery bank so I should be fine.

[rmkrum]

Grounding the panels to the shell is not overkill. It’s good sense to bond all the exposed metal together and thence to the AS frame in case of lightning or electrostatic discharge. It will help minimize damage.

Our panel’s feet are riveted to the roof (Lewster hates it...) for that, and because I’m a ham radio operator and RF goes everywhere on our roof...which is the ground plane for a bunch of antennas. That which is not properly grounded around antennas wil light you up if you happen to touch it, and believe me RF burns heal slowly. Don’t ask how I learned this ...[emoji3]

[FloydCoVa]

This was last Thursday and Friday...
Well, we went down to pick up our 2015 23d yesterday. We simply paid for it but had to leave it there for another week. The reason is our tv is a 1994 Ford F-250... I know some will think that this is a problem as its old almost 25 yrs old. But it's only has 77,000 miles on it.
Last year I had a major tune up done and last week I had new shocks and a complete brake job done. Told my mechanic to check all brake lines and replace if needed. All good right?
So on Thursday night the night before we go down to pick up the trailer I say lets drive truck to town to pick up check and get oil change the give the truck a good scrubbing. This truck looks real sharp, I think, its fire engine red! What could go wrong?
Well of course a trip to town also means dinner, right? After dinner, we get in the truck and the right rear parking brake will not release! No way I say, among other not so nice words! I am no mechanic and it 8:30pm. Well I did my best and shoved the cable back towards the drum. I beat on the drum and got it to release enough to drive home, about 25 miles...still to hot to touch when we got home.
I googled it and tried a few things still too hot. So we just went down to pay for trailer and go through the the walk through. The truck goes back in to be fixed up. We will go back to pick up the trailer this Friday the 23rd. We got to spend the afternoon in our new toy. Stay tuned....

Well fast forward its Thursday again, going to town to pick up truck. Got the brake cables replaced and new drums ! Tomorrow we are going to Out Of Doors Mart to pick up our new to us 2015 23d! We are so exited! Keep your fingers crossed!