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Old 09-06-2019, 01:18 PM   #3501
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We have a squeaky floor as well near the kitchen sink. Doesn't happen all the time. I never thought that it could be going away when we put down the stabilizers.
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Old 09-06-2019, 02:03 PM   #3502
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Originally Posted by Meriwether View Post
In an effort to create more storage space for clothes, I searched Airforums and found this idea and decided to give it a try.

We tried it out this summer and love it. In addition, the use of packing cubes makes it really easy to get your clothes from the house to the trailer. The cubes also keep your clothes organized while you are on the road. My wife uses black cubes and I use blue cubes, so it makes finding your clothes easier.

The beauty of this is that there is no modification to your wardrobe and the shelves can be removed without leaving a trace.
Nice mod. I'm adding this to my list of possible solutions. I like the packing cube idea...can basically pack in the house than just take them out to the trailer--and make it easier to pack/store smaller things like socks that when piled high, fall all over the place. Thanks for posting.
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Old 09-07-2019, 07:54 PM   #3503
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New Fresh Water Drain Valve

You may recall my post back in July, we pulled into Mt. Rushmore KOA with a broken Fresh Water Drain valve. That really put the damper on our plans to do some dry camping.

Thanks to Ronnie I was able to make a plug so we could continue our trip.

Today I replaced the plug with a new brass ball valve. I like this setup but it does hang down a little further than the old valve, so we’ll see how well it holds up.

Before installing the new valve I took a step drill and increased the opening diameter to about an inch. This made sliding the assembly through much easier.

It took several attempts to get things to fit. I tried to show the offsets in the event you find yourself doing this job.

The last clamp I crimped was on the right angle fitting on the tank. Then I added silicone and sheet metal screws to the sheet metal holding the valve.
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Old 09-07-2019, 08:06 PM   #3504
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Meriwether View Post
You may recall my post back in July, we pulled into Mt. Rushmore KOA with a broken Fresh Water Drain valve. That really put the damper on our plans to do some dry camping.

Thanks to Ronnie I was able to make a plug so we could continue our trip.

Today I replaced the plug with a new brass ball valve. I like this setup but it does hang down a little further than the old valve, so we’ll see how well it holds up.

Before installing the new valve I took a step drill and increased the opening diameter to about an inch. This made sliding the assembly through much easier.

It took several attempts to get things to fit. I tried to show the offsets in the event you find yourself doing this job.

The last clamp I crimped was on the right angle fitting on the tank. Then I added silicone and sheet metal screws to the sheet metal holding the valve.
Good job, Keith. Thanks for posting this.... you have just reminded me that I need to do this project to our 23D, before we have a problem.

Question: Were you able to do all the work through the factory access hole?

Oh, another question: Did you consider going straight out from the tank outlet?

Good photos, too. Thanks!
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Old 09-07-2019, 08:11 PM   #3505
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Looks good Keith. Should drain faster for sure.
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Old 09-08-2019, 12:07 AM   #3506
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Good job, Keith. Thanks for posting this.... you have just reminded me that I need to do this project to our 23D, before we have a problem.

Question: Were you able to do all the work through the factory access hole?

Oh, another question: Did you consider going straight out from the tank outlet?

Good photos, too. Thanks!
Yes, after jacking up the trailer, putting blocks under the rear wheel and removing the front wheel, I was able to do all the work through the access panel. The key is to use a headlamp or some type of light so you can see what you’re doing.

The first time you remove the cover to access the water lines, you will most likely have to trim away a thin layer of styrofoam insulation that is in the bottom of the inclosure.

I did consider running the line straight out from the tank, but as you can see in my photo, the valve is only offset 3” forward from the tank outlet so I decided not to make another opening in the sheet metal.

With everything put back together and the wheel back on, the ball valve is much easier to find and manipulate than the plastic valve.
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Old 09-08-2019, 09:43 AM   #3507
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Trailer Brakes

Why do travel trailers not have a mechanical brake actuator similar to an automobile emergency brake? It would be so useful.
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Old 09-09-2019, 06:24 AM   #3508
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Why do travel trailers not have a mechanical brake actuator similar to an automobile emergency brake? It would be so useful.
Two reasons I can think of would be....
1. People would forget to release
2. Trailers with their magnetic actuated brakes....in order to add a manual system you would have to add an additional “brake system” kinda like the rear parking drum brake system on a 4 wheel disk brake automobile. Just Not feasible I guess.

I have seen a few boat trailers with a manual system but it was poorly designed and basically not useable.
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Old 09-09-2019, 05:15 PM   #3509
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Quote:
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Why do travel trailers not have a mechanical brake actuator similar to an automobile emergency brake? It would be so useful.
Dexter makes them. You would have to figure out the cable / linkage / lever how to make it work. A lot of overland camper trailers have them, military also. It would be very handy.

https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Bra...86-087-00.html

https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories.../T2385200.html

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Old Yesterday, 11:23 AM   #3510
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Back from 3 months of BLM remote boondocking

Hi all,

We are back from three months of travel and real boondoc camping. Almost all of the camping was in the 4-Corners area mostly in SE Utah. And note that we are doing archaology surveys under federal permit so normal limitations about camping on BLM lands do not apply to us.



Thanks to all of you and a long list of items to upgrade, improve, replace, and rebuild, our work last winter and spring made it so that our 23D experience during 3 months of camping was completely trouble free. We had no issues with the Airstream of any kind. We had a great time and really love the layout and living style of the 23D!

A few things, we changed every system that we needed for daily living to a 12V system and we saw quite a variety of weather conditions, from snow pack and chain law driving over Wolf Creek Pass in southern Colorado in mid May and lows for a few weeks around 22F to temperatures pushing into the mid 90s by late summer.

We were mostly camping at 7000+ feet so overnight lows were quite reasonable and of course in that region the humidity was very dry with many days not even reaching 10% humidity. We planned on not having to run the air conditioner at all. The solar powered lithium setup was very stout and easily took care of all of our 12V needs--3 Renogy 100W panels feeding 2 100AH Battle Born batteries. We would do not expect to hook up to shore power at any point for years to come. Our last travel trailer went three full years without shoreline power and no generator.

Towing the 23D with the Land Cruiser 200 was relaxed and easy. We upgraded the LC200 two years ago and clearly it helped a lot: we moved up to 33" 10-ply, LT tires, Ironman 4x4 suspension lift and changed to 4.88 differential gearing and added a rear locker while we were at it. Of course these upgrades worked very well almost daily when we left the Airstream and went to very remote sites on barely passable 4x4 "roads" in Utah.

The Airstream is riding on a new custom 3" lift kit, 15" rims, and 29" 6-ply LT tires. We are using a Reese Strait-line, trunnion bar WD system with sway control. When traveling the entire rig was composed to the point of being relaxed, was very stable and quite comfortable. We had no problems getting to "remote" camping areas with the rig well off pavement.

Here are a few photos. First one is on the way out, camping off of I-70. The rest are SE Utah. The last is a view from camp looking across Utah, New Mexico and Arizona. From this camp we have a view from the San Juan mountains of Colorado all the way to Monument Valley, Utah and Arizona.



Jim k
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Old Yesterday, 11:58 AM   #3511
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Micro-wave oven out, charge controller and 12V charging station in.

Having had experience of camping off the grid for decades, we approached living in the Airstream the same way. There were many wonderful attributes the Airstream provided and some things that we viewed as unnecessary. The micro-wave oven that is very poorly mounted above our 23D was such an item. Yes, like most folks we use a micro-wave while at home. However, we have never done such a thing while at camping and there have been times when we have been out traveling and camping for up to six months at a time. We pulled the micro-wave which require the removal of only four tiny wood screws. We have thoughts about that. But it was time to move forward.

We purchased a 24” LG 24LH4840, 19V television and Uxcell 12-19 step up device. We took apart the TV bracketry, cleaned it up and rebuilt it, then added 5052/1/8” aluminum sheet to the back of the panel inside the micro-waye cabinet for support. The switched, Uxcell 12v-19v step up device and LG 24” TV function perfectly together.

We cleaned up the micro-wave cabinet wiring, removed part of the micro-wave support added other supports, then insulation and placed a shelf across the entire inside area. We built a cabinet assembly for inside the micro-wave area outside, took it apart and rebuilt it all inside. It houses our solar charge controller, dual 40 circuit breakers, an extra 12v fuse box, the Uxcell 12-19 step up device, a switched three port 12v charging station, additional switches, and the Victron BMV-712 Battery Monitor. These are all built on two walls on the right side. On the left are two shelves that provide ample room to place 15” laptop computers while charging.

First photo is of the shelf/floor bracing with instulation. Note the 5052 aluminum piece on the right to support the television bracketry on the other wide of the wall and area has been cleaned up--wiring drops are all in place.
Second photo is of the new installed shelf/floor.
Third photo is of the back vertical wall with circuitry and wiring complete.
Fourth photo is of the front wall installation, note all hardware is SS with locking nuts and the entire thing is modular and can be dismantled easily.

Jim k
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Old Yesterday, 12:20 PM   #3512
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Completing the micro-wave area, con't.

Having completed the vertical walls and all wiring on the right side of the micro-wave cabinet area, we continued. On the left are two shelves that provide ample room to place 15” laptop computers or tablets while charging. Note also that the two horizontal shelves can be easily removed for access to the right side. The entire assembly is position back in the space so that we can set a portable Samlex 150W, sine-wave inverter in front for charging batteries requiring 120AC power. The Samlex unit works great and we can place anywhere we need the power. When not in use our portable inverter is placed in storage out of the way.

Note, our 23D is a 2013 model and it was never wired with an inverter system with a second set of 120 outlets throughout. We much prefer the simplicity of this older build as we do not need a big inverter with 120AC outlets all over the place. It is much cleaner. Instead we put 12V drops throughout the Airstream.

The front factory edge of this space is a sloppy mess and it is not even close to being square. We framed it up with 1.5” angle aluminum. The corners were mitered then machined with curved outside corners. It was installed with stainless screws spaced to match the look of the bathroom window. We removed it after checking it for fit, and after achieving a brushed finish look, it received three coats of clear coat, then we installed the outer frame.

For our cabinet upgrades and builds we purchased Baltic Birch 9 ply, 1/2” plywood.

The shunt and an 80A breaker were installed down by the Battle Born batteries forward of the street side wheel-well.

Photo 1 shows the competed interior work the electrical on the right and shelving on the left. Note the horrible finish on the cabinet edges.
Photo 2 shows our completed aluminum finish work with an added LED light to provide illumination in the space if desired.

Photo 3 provides a view of the inner cabinet looking forwards.
Photo 4 provides a view of our outer frame and the aesthetic similarity of tying the look to the bathroom window at the rear of the trailer.
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Old Yesterday, 12:46 PM   #3513
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Battle Born battery installation under sofa in 23D

First photo is of the Battle Born battery setup placed in front of the street side wheel-well under the sofa. Note the cable run from the back of the trailer sits in conduit beside the batteries. The cabling to the rest of the Airstream goes forward to the positive and negative junction bars located at the front corner under the dinette. This connectivity to the existing 12V system required no further work on our part except to cleanup Airstream's "rats-nest" at the front.

We removed the lead acid batteries in the front outside A-Frame battery box, but left the wiring in place and finished it in its own junction box in the front battery box.

We cut openings and added covers in the dinette and sofa platforms that provide us with access to both the battery area as well as the front junction bars.

We replaced the metal piece across the back of the sofa, set Riv-nuts in across the outside wall for the back of the sofa and dinette and reinstalled everything. Second photo is setting the Riv-nuts in preparation for reinstall of the sofa and dinette seats.

The advantages here are removing lead acid batteries (tongue weight) from the front of the Airstream. Replacing the poor factory batteries with two lithium phosphate batteries and setting the electrical system up to run from 12V solar exclusively. We have found that the 3 Renogy 100W solar panels charge the two Born Batteries to 100% in the first 30 minutes of sunlight every morning.

Jim k
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Old Yesterday, 01:23 PM   #3514
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Audio, 12V Blu-ray, HDMI switches, D-A converters, and speakers

Next our attention was turned to the DVD player and the audio system. This was a mess. We removed the factory DVD player (120AC) and the big cabinet in the front overhead and replaced it with a LG BP-175 Blu-ray player (12v). We built a much smaller cabinet and picked up an Uxcell 12v-3A regulated power supply for the LG player. Note the LG BP-175 Blu-ray Player is a home unit that requires 12V +/- 10%. It cannot handle the fluctuation swings of voltage coming off of RV battery systems and for this reason we have it wired to the switched UXcell regulated power supply.

The LG BP-175 is a simple device that only offers HDMI output. This allows for direct connection using the existing HDMI cable to the LG television. The LG television only has optical audio output—designed for connectivity to a sound bar. Instead of running audio all the way to the TV then trying to figure out a way to get it back to the receiver in the front of the trailer, we added a HDMI splitter box that offers an AUX stereo output on the side, thus sending the video to the LG Television, but sending the audio separately to the audio receiver.

There is a crappy RCA audio cable run from the TV to the receiver and a second RCA run that was used from the DVD player to the receiver. Airstream put a Sony DSX-S310 receiver in our trailer which sounded okay. But this unit has no CD player and requires the use of a Sony XA-300, aux-in selector and an inline pyramid noise suppressor for connectivity to RCA inputs.

We removed this entire rats-nest of audio equipment and replace all of it with a Pioneer DEH-80PRS receiver. This unit offers RCA, AUX and USB digital inputs directly on the back and has three Burr-Brown DACs inside. It also offers Bluetooth connectivity if desired. We easily connected our HDMI splitter directly to the new Pioneer using an AUX to RCA cable and this part of our system was done. We can run hi-def music straight from an iOS device through the USB cable into the DAC. If we are playing Blu-ray, or streaming movies we can also connect via HDMI through the splitter. It is super clean, offers the most connectivity and performance, and is all 12v.

The loudspeakers were all replaced with Polk Audio MM-652 and installed XTC 6-1/2" Speaker Baffles, 3 1/4” depth. The Polk 652s are supposedly for marine use and they dramatically improved the sound. The baffles are critical as well. The sound was bad without the baffles (bright, edgy and forward), much better with the baffles (less stridency), but even better yet when we put a 1/2” hole in the back of each baffle.

We got underneath the dinette and found the wiring to the subwoofer to also be a mess. We rewired the RCA with new leads, cleaned it all up and have decided to keep the subwoofer for now. This may change in the future, especially if we decide to rebuild the curbside of the dinette to provide more and better storage.

While looking into the loudspeaker areas, we made note of where live wiring was available. There is wiring on both sides of the back overhead over the bed. We tapped into both of these and added 12v outlets on both sides near the speakers. We also added a 12v outlet between the curb side front loudspeaker and the front window corner. There was a 12v wire run into the Blu-ray cabinet area that was not used—we tapped into it for the switch -> E2v-3A regulated power supply -> LG Blu-ray player. We added a 12v outlet in front under the street side dinette seat. We rewired the 12v outlet by the TV on the wall and made it a switched outlet. In all we added seven 12v outlets, two in the front corners, two in the back corners above the bed and three in the micro-wave cabinet. We now have ten 12V outlets in the Airstream.

In addition we have a PRO-JECT - Pre Box S2 DAC/Preamplifier that is used with a B & 0, A1 loudspeaker. When used with a lithium battery this system is completely portable and can be used with a iOS device (digital out) to play hi-resolution music. We have used this for quite some time and it is truly remarkable. The Pro-ject DAC has three digital inputs so it can be used with the LG television optical output for sourcing the sound near the TV if desired.

We generally are not TV watchers when we camp, yeah we know we are talking about no broadcast TV for months. However, we enjoy watching movies and some streaming type content. We download content to our iPads when we have access to high speed internet, and play directly off of the equipment. If there are others camping nearby we use high end headphones. If not, we use the sound system. We also keep a music library with us when we are out on the road. Note that we are often either out of cell service or at the very edge of it--if we do not bring audio and video content with us there is often no other source.

This is where we are with audio and video all of which is 12v and except for the Pioneer receiver has no electrical draw when not in use.

These photos are of the building of the much smaller Blu-ray cabinet, less than half of the size of the idiotic 120AC unit that Airstream puts in our trailers. Note the switch for the 12V regulator on the lower front panel. There is enough area on the top of the shelf for a smaller iPad Pro.

Jim k
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