The 23D thread

[pcskier]

Originally Posted by Chris Borth

Not sure I needed to do this but it is convenient. The item is called an over the door Hangar (Item #10075907 at the Container Store). I cut off the over the door part and screwed it onto the BARE WALL.

Sorry but I can't figure out how to rotate the pictures so you'll have to rotate the screen.

Great idea.

[talewis13]

Originally Posted by RFP

It is a low point drain. It is not connected to the fresh water tank, it merely is routed through the metal box which surrounds/supports the tank. Be sure to open it when doing your annual winterizing.

Update on the two valves under fresh water tank. One is the drain (the white one). The second one,which is metal, seems to be attached the the water pump. As I was setting up the in-law suite. I had left it open inadvertently and pumped 15+ gals of fresh on the ground. Wondering why the system would not pressurize. Went outside to find water running down the drive but when I close the valve system pressurized within seconds. Refilled the fresh and all was set for the visit.

[pcskier]

Originally Posted by talewis13

Update on the two valves under fresh water tank. One is the drain (the white one). The second one,which is metal, seems to be attached the the water pump. As I was setting up the in-law suite. I had left it open inadvertently and pumped 15+ gals of fresh on the ground. Wondering why the system would not pressurize. Went outside to find water running down the drive but when I close the valve system pressurized within seconds. Refilled the fresh and all was set for the visit.

Like RFP said it’s a low point drain. To help drain plumbing when winterizing. It’s not ‘attached’ to the water pump per se, as it’s just part of the plumbing system which is all pressurized by the pump or by city water. If you hooked up to city water that valve would drain as well if open. P.s there are 2 more low point drains in the rear storage compartment to drain when winterizing as well.

[GMFL]

Ok guys so here is my latest and by far one of my most complex upgrades.
The installation of the Victron MultiPlus 12/3000 inverter, Victron Color GX monitor, ALL new 4/0 battery cables, fuses, breakers, more wires, more fuses, lights, flux capacitor, and relocation of my BMV to the location where my old inverter switch was below the tank monitor.

The relocation of the BMV was a challenge due to the need to run a V.E. Direct cable from the Color GX to the BMV. This was a difficult run down the wall under the floor (through the chase) and up to the microwave compartment. The V.E. Direct cable was required to allow the BMV to communicate with the Color GX. Whew that’s A lot I
Know but it turned out great and now I can run the microwave and anything else I want to run off battery power.
Here’s some pics.

[Troutboy]

Looks awesome Ronnie! Are you getting any errors from the GCX? Seems like if you upgrade to latest firmware it may not work with the multiplus. I talked to victron and they told me to roll back my firmware, and turn off the auto update. They said that it it is nit necessary to keep all equipment up to latest firmware it’s more important to use a stable system. They told me not to go update my multi if it’s working and keep running off firmware I have.

Since yours is new, maybe it’s all up to date. They said keep it at version 2.33. Thx

[GMFL]

Originally Posted by Troutboy

Looks awesome Ronnie! Are you getting any errors from the GCX? Seems like if you upgrade to latest firmware it may not work with the multiplus. I talked to victron and they told me to roll back my firmware, and turn off the auto update. They said that it it is nit necessary to keep all equipment up to latest firmware it’s more important to use a stable system. They told me not to go update my multi if it’s working and keep running off firmware I have.

Since yours is new, maybe it’s all up to date. They said keep it at version 2.33. Thx

I’m running 2.42 without issue.

[GMFL]

Here’s a cool comparison photo. The factory battery connect cables vs my new 4/0 battery connect cables.

[rmkrum]

Man, I’ll bet those monster cables will have the ability to deliver lots of current. Make sure you have appropriate fuses to protect the rest of the wiring. I’m using a Blue Seas terminal mounted bolt-on fuse block right on the battery post to protect the rest of the wiring. Right now it’s an 80 amp fuse.

I just replaced the wimpy 10 gauge battery leads that came from the factory with 4 gauge marine rated wire, lugs, and sealant lined shrink tubing. My lights don’t flicker anymore when I dump a big load on the 12 volt buss.

I also added a Blue Seas disconnect switch on the front of the AS in the positive lead as a emergency/storage disconnect to kill all 12 volt power inside the trailer. Only thing that has power when it is off is breakaway, tongue jack and WD power jacks.

[GMFL]

Originally Posted by rmkrum

Man, I’ll bet those monster cables will have the ability to deliver lots of current. Make sure you have appropriate fuses to protect the rest of the wiring. I’m using a Blue Seas terminal mounted bolt-on fuse block right on the battery post to protect the rest of the wiring. Right now it’s an 80 amp fuse.

I just replaced the wimpy 10 gauge battery leads that came from the factory with 4 gauge marine rated wire, lugs, and sealant lined shrink tubing. My lights don’t flicker anymore when I dump a big load on the 12 volt buss.

I also added a Blue Seas disconnect switch on the front of the AS in the positive lead as a emergency/storage disconnect to kill all 12 volt power inside the trailer. Only thing that has power when it is off is breakaway, tongue jack and WD power jacks.

BlueSea 300A battery terminal fuses for both banks and a BlueSea 400A T-class fuse for the inverter along with various other appropriately sized fuses

[GMFL]

All covered up now , Like it never even happened.......

[eagletoo]

Spic & Span condition

[StephSH]

You did an amazing job! You have more acronyms in that post than the VA uses in a day- and that’s saying something [emoji23][emoji23]

[Troutboy]

Looks great Ronnie, like those access holes, now I might have to add one more...

[GMFL]

I installed a HaloView rear camera yesterday. Tapped power at the rear clearance lights as many others have done. System has a camera that is wired to a forward booster. Works well as I have a strong signal with my truck in the garage and the Airstream parked over 100’ away.

[GMFL]

I also made a clamp from a piece of Kydex which will allow me to “click” my rear camera monitor over my trucks Rear View Mirror. I believe this is a logical place to mount it while towing.

[Troutboy]

Sweet Ronnie, looks great. I have the factory installed camera and love it. I think it helps greatly with lane changes and such. You aught to mass produce those mirror holders, really like that since the rear view mirror isn’t much use when the trailer is attached. It’s nice and out of the way for sure. I’ll take a look at my system and see if I can mod it to hang like that.

On the booster, did you look at installing it under the unit? Just curious if there was any reason you chose to install on top?

[Mattirs]

Originally Posted by GMFL

I also made a clamp from a piece of Kydex which will allow me to “click” my rear camera monitor over my trucks Rear View Mirror. I believe this is a logical place to mount it while towing.

Put me on the list also for one of those, kept thinking to myself, it would be great and out of the way to have the rear view monitor on the rear view mirror.

Brilliant!

Thanks,
Matti

[GMFL]

Originally Posted by Troutboy

Sweet Ronnie, looks great. I have the factory installed camera and love it. I think it helps greatly with lane changes and such. You aught to mass produce those mirror holders, really like that since the rear view mirror isn’t much use when the trailer is attached. It’s nice and out of the way for sure. I’ll take a look at my system and see if I can mod it to hang like that.

On the booster, did you look at installing it under the unit? Just curious if there was any reason you chose to install on top?

I did think about putting the booster under, but I only had 20’ of cable so I did not have enough to get there.

[GMFL]

Originally Posted by Mattirs

Put me on the list also for one of those, kept thinking to myself, it would be great and out of the way to have the rear view monitor on the rear view mirror.

Brilliant!

Thanks,
Matti

Only problem with making them is each brand is different.

[Mattirs]

True did not think of that. Guess I will just need to learn how to do it myself. :-)