The 23D thread

[GMFL]

Originally Posted by FloydCoVa

I put my bath vanity kick plate and cabinet doors back on. Had to repair the kick plate as the plywood separated at the left hardware. Finished up winterizing the 23d Friday. Cleaned up work bench from drilling holes in my lift blocks. Up next will be painting the lift blocks. Oh yeah, started a fire in the wood stove, first of the year.

Scott,
Always something, right?
Wow first fire of the year. The high here today was 68. First time this year I was able to go outside and not feel like I needed another shower.

[uraljohn]

Originally Posted by Gopher John

I think my wife is having some buyers remorse about the corner bed. It was a cool night in Minnesota last night. The furnace has a wide range (if you set it at 64, it doesn’t kick on until 60 and then heats the AS to 70). So that is a lot of shifting from wanting to sleep all curled up (impossible for two adults in a 48” width) and wanting to fold the blanket off (to where?).
I wish you guys could come up with a mod to make the bed wider!!!!
It’s a grumpy morning here in the North Star State:-(

We have no problem together in the 23D bed. We have a queen size at home. We are going to spend 4 months at Land Yacht Harbor in Melbourne, Florida beginning Dec. 1 in our 23D. We were there for 2 weeks last Dec. If we like spending the winter there, we are going to get a Flying Cloud 30 rear bed twin to leave there full time. The 23D is the perfect travel size, but for extended stays the twin is our favorite. Nice open floor plan and lots of storage. We like the 23D bed, but we do not love it. For us the compromise is worth it for the rest of the trailer layout.


The temperature swing with your furnace does not sound right. When we camp in the cold we keep the heat set at 73 degrees (yes, I know that may seem high but we lived in Naples, Florida for 13 years. we like it warm). Our furnace kicks on at maybe 1 or 2 degrees below the 73 setting and turns off at maybe 1 or 2 degrees over. Maybe yours needs calibrated somehow. Last November we got caught in Columbus, Ohio for a week and the temps were in the teens at night. Furnace ran like a champ and kept steady temperature.

[switz]

Sounds more like a thermostat issue with the built in "compensator" defective. Back in the day, we adjusted the compensator to the particular furnace system to keep the temperature swings modest.

[Boog]

Originally Posted by GMFL

What are the rest of you Nuckle Heads working on.

I'm working on getting packed to go to Alumalina and hang out with +/-300 other Airstreams.

[GMFL]

Boog,
That’s a great plan. One day I’m going to make it to a big rally. I’m not sure I could handle it now.

[RFP]

Originally Posted by GMFL

Rob,
How hard was that to do. I currently run a wireless HDMI system, but can’t run both TVs at the same time due to a delay in the wireless system which creates an echo.
Also what path did you take.
DVD to rear or front TV to rear.
Also please post the type of HDMI spitter you used.
Thanks

Yes, that 'echo' would drive me absolutely bonkers (wouldn't be that far a trip either!).

The route goes through the microwave cavity, across the trailer through the 'trough' in the top if the accordion door overhead track, then through "Linda's closet, to the television.

I ran the factory-installed HDMI cable back through the microwave cavity into the closed to the left of the microwave. There, that cable goes to the 'input' of the splitter. Then I ran a 10' cable back through the cavity to the front TV and a 15' cable over to the bedroom TV.

The splitter I used requires USB power, so I mounted a double gang wall box on the closet side of the microwave cavity wall (the 'double gang' was to allow for future whatever). I used a combo single outlet/switch to supply power to the USB device.

To run overhead, I had to completely remove the door's overhead track and modify the plastic end pieces to provide a path for the HDMI cable. I hope you get the idea from the attached photo.

I used this splitter: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I have used their products before and find them to be of pretty darned good quality.

If this doesn't make sense just let me know, and I'll try to confuse the issue further.



The HDMI cable has to be pretty flexible in order to get it all to go together when putting the top track back up. It's kind of a circus trick, because the HDMI cable has to be pre-inserted into the track then the track snapped back into place. THe trickiness of this isn't immediately apparent, but the photo and a few minutes just thinking about it will probably help understanding it.

Anyway, here are the cables I used: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[RFP]

We are some of those fortunate folks who find that their Micro-Pulse tank level monitor works just fine. I have no plans to replace it in my lifetime (!) The Micro-Pulse panel also holds the switch for the fresh water pump. This switch is not connected in any way to the circuitry of the Micro-Pulse... it is just a convenient place for the switch.

But, for well-documented reasons, I do not want to leave my water pump left 'ON' when not in use. To that end, I find a lighted pump switch to be useful.

To add a lighted pump switch is easy.

Here's the switch to use: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

To install,
1. Remove the fuse to the pump circuit
2. Remove the three wires attached to the factory-supplied switch. Note which wire is 'hot' 12-VDC
3. One of the three wires doesn't go anywhere, it's short and completely disconnected. You don't need it... pitch it.
4. Wrestle the original switch from the panel (dang, that was hard, I had to cut the four little plastic pieces that hold it in place.
5. You will need a 'ground' connection. You can simply solder a wire to the existing (black) ground wire on the Micro-Pulse, or 'wire nut' if you don't solder.
6. Put all three wires through the Micro-Pulse panel.
7. The 'hot' wire (+12 VDC) goes the center terminal of the switch.
8. The other factory wire goes the the outside terminal that it the same color as the center terminal (probably brass color)
9. Your newly made ground wire goes to the remaining outside terminal.
10. Replace the fuse and test, noting which way the switch is facing when 'ON'
11. Snap the new switch into the panel.
12. Pop the panel back in place and you're done.

Ta da!

[Joannadannna]

Any 23D’ers going to the AS gathering in a few days?

Thank you to those who shared their fav 2+ mods.

[Jim k]

Hi everyone,

We purchased a 2013, 23D Signature a few weeks ago. We are thrilled with our "new to us" Airstream and it will fit our needs and desires perfectly. This unit was maintained in exceptional condition by couple in Rochester, NY and we were super lucky to find it.

Our TV is a 2015 Toyota Land Cruiser with 4.88/locking differentials, an aftermarket upgraded suspension and 33" LT tires. The trip home towing the 23D was very pleasant and relaxed.

While waiting to schedule the purchase two states away, we have been going through the 23D Thread and have found all of the experiences shared here to be invaluable. The 23D group is in no small way a huge help in solidifying our decision to purchase this model and we are beginning the process of doing upgrades throughout. We have two and half pages of improvements/changes that we will make to the unit. We began with stabilizing the hot water heater, first things first.

I offer a BIG thanks to all 23D Thread members.

Our 23D will be heading out west to the 4-Corners region where it will be used as a basecamp in support of backcountry archaeology surveys and it will be towed throughout the western states months each year for general travel. To this end we already have firmed up plans for a suspension lift and upgrade to 16" rims and LT E tires--10", 6 lug hub/drum brake parts are on the way, rims and tires have been ordered. We will be adding solar on the roof to support Battle Born lithium batteries and will set this up for extended boondocking life. The convection/microwave has already been pulled and we doing design/builds throughout to set this up for our long term backcountry/high country needs.

We are replacing a Taxa Cricket, Off-Road model that has been an awesome basecamp and travel companion. the Cricket sits on 15" rims with LT C tires and has been completely off-grid with solar and a high end electrical system for 3 years. Our needs for more protection and a much better living environment led us to Airstream and smaller requirements have pushed us to size up from the 19' Bambi to the 23D.

We are pleased to be part of this group.

[Boog]

Originally Posted by Joannadannna

Any 23D’ers going to the AS gathering in a few days?

Why, yes we are! Hope to see you there... can't miss us - we'll be in the shiny Airstream.

[Joannadannna]

Originally Posted by Boog

Why, yes we are! Hope to see you there... can't miss us - we'll be in the shiny Airstream.

Just found out that we won’t be attending. Seems as if one of our four legged varieties is having health issues and needs closer monitoring for the next few days. Have a fantastic time!

[GMFL]

Originally Posted by Jim k

Hi everyone,

We purchased a 2013, 23D Signature a few weeks ago. We are thrilled with our "new to us" Airstream and it will fit our needs and desires perfectly. This unit was maintained in exceptional condition by couple in Rochester, NY and we were super lucky to find it.

Our TV is a 2015 Toyota Land Cruiser with 4.88/locking differentials, an aftermarket upgraded suspension and 33" LT tires. The trip home towing the 23D was very pleasant and relaxed.

While waiting to schedule the purchase two states away, we have been going through the 23D Thread and have found all of the experiences shared here to be invaluable. The 23D group is in no small way a huge help in solidifying our decision to purchase this model and we are beginning the process of doing upgrades throughout. We have two and half pages of improvements/changes that we will make to the unit. We began with stabilizing the hot water heater, first things first.

I offer a BIG thanks to all 23D Thread members.

Our 23D will be heading out west to the 4-Corners region where it will be used as a basecamp in support of backcountry archaeology surveys and it will be towed throughout the western states months each year for general travel. To this end we already have firmed up plans for a suspension lift and upgrade to 16" rims and LT E tires--10", 6 lug hub/drum brake parts are on the way, rims and tires have been ordered. We will be adding solar on the roof to support Battle Born lithium batteries and will set this up for extended boondocking life. The convection/microwave has already been pulled and we doing design/builds throughout to set this up for our long term backcountry/high country needs.

We are replacing a Taxa Cricket, Off-Road model that has been an awesome basecamp and travel companion. the Cricket sits on 15" rims with LT C tires and has been completely off-grid with solar and a high end electrical system for 3 years. Our needs for more protection and a much better living environment led us to Airstream and smaller requirements have pushed us to size up from the 19' Bambi to the 23D.

We are pleased to be part of this group.

Jim,
Welcome to the club and let us know if we can help in any way.

[RFP]

Originally Posted by Jim k

We are pleased to be part of this group.

And, Jim, those of us who stumbled in here before you are just as pleased that you are now here, too! If you've read through the thread, I'm sure you have found us to be a pretty supportive group, eager to help and happy to share info and tips. We're also pretty good at spending each other's money!!

I'm looking forward to hear of your adventures in the Four Corners area. We've used Bluff, Utah as kind of a home base for years as we did some pretty serious backpacking in the Cedar Mesa area. I love the high desert.

Again, welcome, and check in here often.

Rob

[pcskier]

Jim K, welcome to the club, and also, congrats on going from probably the ugliest trailers ever built to the most beautiful! Just kidding (kind of?) but man those Crickets are just...uggh...despite their practicality! Look forward to hearing/seeing the ways you beef up ('hardening' is actually the word that is most popular here) your new Airstream.


PK

[GMFL]

Originally Posted by RFP

Yes, that 'echo' would drive me absolutely bonkers (wouldn't be that far a trip either!).

The route goes through the microwave cavity, across the trailer through the 'trough' in the top if the accordion door overhead track, then through "Linda's closet, to the television.

I ran the factory-installed HDMI cable back through the microwave cavity into the closed to the left of the microwave. There, that cable goes to the 'input' of the splitter. Then I ran a 10' cable back through the cavity to the front TV and a 15' cable over to the bedroom TV.

The splitter I used requires USB power, so I mounted a double gang wall box on the closet side of the microwave cavity wall (the 'double gang' was to allow for future whatever). I used a combo single outlet/switch to supply power to the USB device.

To run overhead, I had to completely remove the door's overhead track and modify the plastic end pieces to provide a path for the HDMI cable. I hope you get the idea from the attached photo.

I used this splitter: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I have used their products before and find them to be of pretty darned good quality.

If this doesn't make sense just let me know, and I'll try to confuse the issue further.



The HDMI cable has to be pretty flexible in order to get it all to go together when putting the top track back up. It's kind of a circus trick, because the HDMI cable has to be pre-inserted into the track then the track snapped back into place. THe trickiness of this isn't immediately apparent, but the photo and a few minutes just thinking about it will probably help understanding it.

Anyway, here are the cables I used: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Rob,
This one is going to happen. I never thought about using the door track to get over there. Brilliant! Out with the wireless and in with the wire. NO MORE DELAY ECHO.

[Troutboy]

Jim K, welcome.

Sounds like you know what you are doing and will be contributing to all of our lists with future upgrades.

[Jim k]

Thank you for the welcomes!

Early on I was dismayed to see all but the most recent year 23Ds sitting on 14" rims. In part, I understand why this setup was chosen, but still?!? I was also bummed that the 14" rims were mounted to 5 on 4-1/2" bolt pattern hub/drums, but that is normal for that size rim.

15" rims can either be specified for 5 on 4-1/2" or 6 on 5-1/2" hub/drum assemblies. However, moving to 16" rims from 14" rims requires moving up to the 6 bolt on 5-1/2" hub/drum assemblies.

I spent a few days calling Dexter and different retailers to track down the appropriate parts for changing out the existing 10" hub/drums of the Dexter 3,500 lb, #10 axles with #84 spindles to the 10" 6 on 5-1/2" hub/drum assembly on the 2013 23D. Note, these earlier axles are not the Easy Lube units. Both Dexter and aftermarket upgrade parts are available (sold as single units w/bearing sets).

The following meet the Dexter #008-250-05 secification:
Regular 3,500 lb, 10" brake, Axle: Dexter 6 on 5-1/2" hub/drum assembly #84656UC3
Easy lube 3,500 lb, 10" brake, Axle: Dexter 6 on 5-1/2" hub/drum assembly #84656UC3-EZ

Note that the regular Dexter 10" hub/drum is about $17 less than the Easy Lube unit, but the latter is required for the Easy Lube spindles.

I am going with SS Bearing Buddy seal caps which provide a slight controlled pressure on the bearings and Bearing Buddy rear seals. This provides a simple way to see how the bearing grease is doing and maintain grease pressure in the wheel bearings which keeps contaminants at bay.

Bearing buddy (pair) #BB1980A-SS
Bearing Buddy (pair) rear seal #BB60002

Changing these parts allows me to move to 16" rims and my choice of LT E rated tires.

Dexter makes only the 2-5/8" lift kit # K71-707-01 for the #10 axles found on our trailer and this will not be enough lift, so we will fabricate our own spacers. Note that later year 23Ds use #11 axles with a correspondingly taller lift kit as reported and discussed on the 23D Thread.

I looked for our axle information throughout the 23D Thread and did not conclusively see the part numbers so thought I should post this information for those who are seeking it and may want to move from 14" to 16" rims.

[Jim k]

Originally Posted by RFP

We are some of those fortunate folks who find that their Micro-Pulse tank level monitor works just fine. I have no plans to replace it in my lifetime (!) The Micro-Pulse panel also holds the switch for the fresh water pump. This switch is not connected in any way to the circuitry of the Micro-Pulse... it is just a convenient place for the switch.

But, for well-documented reasons, I do not want to leave my water pump left 'ON' when not in use. To that end, I find a lighted pump switch to be useful.

To add a lighted pump switch is easy.

Here's the switch to use: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

To install,
1. Remove the fuse to the pump circuit
2. Remove the three wires attached to the factory-supplied switch. Note which wire is 'hot' 12-VDC
3. One of the three wires doesn't go anywhere, it's short and completely disconnected. You don't need it... pitch it.
4. Wrestle the original switch from the panel (dang, that was hard, I had to cut the four little plastic pieces that hold it in place.
5. You will need a 'ground' connection. You can simply solder a wire to the existing (black) ground wire on the Micro-Pulse, or 'wire nut' if you don't solder.
6. Put all three wires through the Micro-Pulse panel.
7. The 'hot' wire (+12 VDC) goes the center terminal of the switch.
8. The other factory wire goes the the outside terminal that it the same color as the center terminal (probably brass color)
9. Your newly made ground wire goes to the remaining outside terminal.
10. Replace the fuse and test, noting which way the switch is facing when 'ON'
11. Snap the new switch into the panel.
12. Pop the panel back in place and you're done.

Ta da!

Thank you for this thoughtful upgrade!

On a different note, were you camping in southeast Utah in September? We saw a 23D in the Devils Canyon Campground north of Blanding around the equinox. There was a blue Ford pickup with it. We were camped at the other end of the campground with our Land Cruiser and Cricket.


Jim k

[RFP]

Originally Posted by Jim k

< snip > ...so thought I should post this information for those who are seeking it and may want to move from 14" to 16" rims.

I don't know about 16-inchers... The 15" wheels I have fill the available space pretty much completely up. I suppose very short sidewall tires could be used on 16s, but even if they would fit, the stiffer sidewalls might not be very good for the trailer.

[GMFL]

Jim,
I converted our 2014 unit that came with 14” stock wheels to 15” sendel TO3 5 on 4 1/2 rims and run Michelin LT Defenders MS 235/75R15 tires at 45-47 PSI and love them. I also fabricated a custom 3” lift for my unit
Here’s a link to my blog on the lift.
http://www.airforums.com/forums/blog...lift-kit-2901/

Scott (floydcova) is in the process of doing the same lift.