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Old 05-09-2017, 03:39 PM   #127
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12 volt dc wiring

I'm pretty comfortable with 120vac, but the 12volt dc stuff is still a little bit of a mystery to me. On my converter (Parallax 7355) there's a 120vac in that connects with spade connectors and 12 volt dc out to the fuse panel that appears to be no bigger than #10 wire. From the fuse panel, there's #6 wire going up front to the batteries.
My question is, in dc, can a short #10 wire feed a long #6 wire?

I'm thinking about swapping out my converter for an Iota IQ4 that I have and I want to make sure that I don't under-size the 12volt dc wiring. I don't need to wire for more than 55 amps.
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Old 05-09-2017, 04:21 PM   #128
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Thanks Ronnie. Also, nice work on that toilet. Looks like much more room for guys when sitting. Lol.

What is the 360 flush? Does this mean you can pivot the toilet bowl?
360 Flush means water comes out from under the lip all the way around the bowl like your toilet at home Not just from that spot in the back of the bowl of the stock toilet
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Old 05-09-2017, 05:02 PM   #129
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Boog, here the way I would look at it. Start with basics

Charger - charges your batteries after or as they drain.

Converter- takes AC current and turns it into DC current.

Inverter - takes DC current and turns it into AC current.

battery - stores power/energy and distributes it as DC current.

So now you have the DC distribution panel that sends DC power to all of the DC loads like lights fans etc.

DC current has more loss or voltage drop, so bigger wires are needed for longer runs.

AC current has less loss so can travel further in smaller wire.

So when running off battery power the battery sends DC current directly to the DC distribution panel via the long run.

When on shore power. The short AC wire feeds the converter which turns the AC into DC to power your DC devices. The converter/charger also sends power to your battery (if the use switch is on) to charge your batteries.

The main reasons the wires are different sizes is because of length of run and associated voltage drop and type of current, AC versus DC. The amount of current carries also is a factor (larger wires for more current load).

Some folks here would say the wires used by the factory border on being to small. Most upgrade them if they upgrade the systems.

Also, most that upgrade batteries and solar do away with the converter all together. In this case when in shore power, DC is fed by the batteries and they are simultaneously charged so they don't drain. No need for converter.

Hope this helps.
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Old 05-09-2017, 05:04 PM   #130
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360 Flush means water comes out from under the lip all the way around the bowl like your toilet at home Not just from that spot in the back of the bowl of the stock toilet


Thanks! I thought I saw a 360 rotating bowl on dometics site. Maybe I was confused. I need to stop reading the forums, it always cost me more money in upgrades! Now I want a bigger toilet!
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Old 05-09-2017, 05:42 PM   #131
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# 2. Elongated bowel. " if you have to ask why, you do not need one."
Um....yeah. My 2014 FC has a toilet that is more of a round bowl, but what is maddening is that the supplied seat doesn't quite cover the outer rim of the bowl, but over hangs the inner rim by quite a bit...and it's a small seat for sure. I was thinking of trying to find a seat that more closely matches the bowl. Your solution seems like it might be even better, given the relatively reasonable cost to just replace the whole damn thing and have what should have been provided in the first place. Anyway...

would you mind posting the dimensions (height, and bowl dimension) for the original? I'm sure they are the same but want to be sure. Mine's a FB with the larger rear bath so fit should be no problem...but just need to double check!

I dread my toilet...this could be an even bigger game-changer than the Micro Air Easy Start :-)
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Old 05-09-2017, 07:06 PM   #132
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Um....yeah. My 2014 FC has a toilet that is more of a round bowl, but what is maddening is that the supplied seat doesn't quite cover the outer rim of the bowl, but over hangs the inner rim by quite a bit...and it's a small seat for sure. I was thinking of trying to find a seat that more closely matches the bowl. Your solution seems like it might be even better, given the relatively reasonable cost to just replace the whole damn thing and have what should have been provided in the first place. Anyway...

would you mind posting the dimensions (height, and bowl dimension) for the original? I'm sure they are the same but want to be sure. Mine's a FB with the larger rear bath so fit should be no problem...but just need to double check!

I dread my toilet...this could be an even bigger game-changer than the Micro Air Easy Start :-)
Here you go. Bought mine off Amazon. Very easy self install! And worth every penny in my book.
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Old 05-09-2017, 07:07 PM   #133
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Sorry you said original toilet. Yes I will take some measurements and pictures and post them
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Old 05-09-2017, 07:15 PM   #134
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Old toilet measurements

Here is the measurements for the old unit.
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Old 05-10-2017, 12:29 AM   #135
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Here is the measurements for the old unit.
Thanks--yep that's the one--with a seat that is an inch smaller than the bowl on each side-nutty!

Looks like I might be on to my next upgrade.
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Old 05-10-2017, 03:20 AM   #136
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Thanks Troutboy, that helps a lot. I think that I'm starting to get the picture... the short #10 wire from converter to fuse panel is fine, the long run of #6 from fuse panel to batteries is sized for the current flowing from batteries to distribution, not because it's needed to send charging power the other way from the converter to the batteries.
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Old 05-10-2017, 05:57 AM   #137
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Troutboy's basic overview in Post #129 was well done. FYI there are also good overviews of RV battery etc. systems online when you have time to peruse them, for instance this one:

http://roadslesstraveled.us/rv-marin...arging-basics/

Cheers,

Peter
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Old 05-11-2017, 02:56 AM   #138
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Thanks for the link Peter, I'm always intrigued by some people that pack it up and hit the trail for years at a time.
I did get a better feel for the 12 volt side of life and swapped out my converter. I got started on this project by wiring in a Progressive Industries surge protector and while I had everything pulled apart, I figured that I might as well swap out the old single stage for a new 4 stage unit that I had laying around. I got that idea from mojoe7009 and his install. Anyway, here's a picture before the grill goes back on, I raised it up so that the fan sits centered in the louvers of the grill (no error codes on the PI surge protector).
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Old 05-11-2017, 06:46 AM   #139
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Use switch on or off?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Troutboy View Post
Boog, here the way I would look at it. Start with basics

Charger - charges your batteries after or as they drain.

Converter- takes AC current and turns it into DC current.

Inverter - takes DC current and turns it into AC current.

battery - stores power/energy and distributes it as DC current.

So now you have the DC distribution panel that sends DC power to all of the DC loads like lights fans etc.

DC current has more loss or voltage drop, so bigger wires are needed for longer runs.

AC current has less loss so can travel further in smaller wire.

So when running off battery power the battery sends DC current directly to the DC distribution panel via the long run.

When on shore power. The short AC wire feeds the converter which turns the AC into DC to power your DC devices. The converter/charger also sends power to your battery (if the use switch is on) to charge your batteries.

The main reasons the wires are different sizes is because of length of run and associated voltage drop and type of current, AC versus DC. The amount of current carries also is a factor (larger wires for more current load).

Some folks here would say the wires used by the factory border on being to small. Most upgrade them if they upgrade the systems.

Also, most that upgrade batteries and solar do away with the converter all together. In this case when in shore power, DC is fed by the batteries and they are simultaneously charged so they don't drain. No need for converter.

Hope this helps.
Very helpful.

I have a 2017 23D with 80w solar. I am not clear wether I need to have the use switch on or off when connected to shore power.
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Old 05-11-2017, 07:01 AM   #140
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I tend to think of it like this. The Use/Store switch connects or disconnects the batteries to the trailer.

When it is in the store position, the batteries are "disconnected" from most of the electrical systems you use while in the trailer.

When in the Use position, the battery is connected to all of the systems in the trailer.

When on shore power, if in the store position, the batteries are disconnected and all of your DC power needs are supplied by your converter and will work (lights, fans, etc). But since the battery is disconnected, it will not charge.

When in the Use position on shore power, the converter still supplies power to all your DC loads, but your charger will charge your batteries because they are connected.

When dry camping with no shore power, if you have the switch on store. The batteries are disconnected and you will have no DC power in the trailer. If you flip the switch to use, the batteries are connected and you have DC power.

There are some loads that are always connected to the battery, the tongue jack, LP sensor, breakaway switch, mostly safety functions and items that are needed while towing.
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