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Old 05-07-2004, 10:50 AM   #379
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Frozen.

I am thinking of leaving well enough alone. One thing I realized quickly is that the problems with heaters, stoves/ovens, fridge, etc, though still problems, those things are not manufactured by Airstream. They are simply an installed component. Airstreams are really axels, wiring, plumbing, sheet metal, cabinets, etc.

Any problems down ther road with say a refridg not working or lighting I think would be the responsibility of Dometic or whoever to take care of. Short of replacing a defective unit, I would only want to deal with that particular manufacturer for future events. I would make my first call to the actual company that makes the appliance, as AS would probably be a middle person.

I can not imagine anyone on this list that has the ability to hook up and set up a camp site does not know how to use a screw driver. Many of the visually anoying things in AS are cabinet doors that do not line up, which in turn may make the doors not close properly.

Airstream was smart enough to install 36mm style Euro hinges on most of their cabinet doors. They are very easy to adjust. If time is any indication, and like the cabinets in our house, they will absolutely need periodic adjustment. To adjust, one just needs a phillips head SD and a little patients.

We are a handy lot of people. Schlepping out to Ohio or a repair center would be my last resort, if my stab at it did not work, and of coarse I would consult this list!

Jonathan
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Old 05-07-2004, 10:56 AM   #380
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Jack.

The shower cap idea is a great one!!! I'll have to pick one of those up.

Pam and I look forward to seeing you and the others at the rally. I hope there is someone there that can help park, because so far backing this thing up is next to impossible. It took us about 25 minutes just to get into our storage space, which is 40 feet by 10 feet.

Pull through sites are sounding better and better. Or better yet, a site that is about the size Cuba might be OK.

Jonathan
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Old 05-07-2004, 01:33 PM   #381
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Jonathan,

Don't sweat it. You'll do just fine. You'll get the hang of it in no time...in the meantime, there are plenty of folks that can help back your CCD in to the site.

One other thing I forgot to mention is about the fridge. I was told by R & R, not to really set the fridge to more than 3 unless it's way hot out and/or in direct sunlight. I found that if I turned it up more than 3 and left it above 3 overnight, the whole unit was one big freezer!

Three seems to be the magic number and also seems to work well with the larger 2 door unit in the Safari as well.

Eric
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Old 05-07-2004, 03:04 PM   #382
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Learning how to back

Quote:
Originally Posted by crazylev
Jack.

I hope there is someone there that can help park, because so far backing this thing up is next to impossible. It took us about 25 minutes just to get into our storage space, which is 40 feet by 10 feet.

Jonathan
One thing I did was to take the trailer to a large empty parking lot. I brought 2 plastic wastecans and put brooms in them. I used them as markers and proceded to learn how to back the trailer. You screw up you don't dent anything. That's the way I learned!

Jack
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Old 05-07-2004, 03:13 PM   #383
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Yea backing my 30' is a lot easier than my old 25'. I imagine the 19' is a little tricky with one axle. But go slow and I bet it will be no problem before long.

By the way, I can hear the party from the rally already! You guys pipe down....
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Old 05-07-2004, 03:25 PM   #384
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Eric.

Yes. The fridge was on and running when I arrived at Sherry. It was set to #7!

Dinner was a mixed gren salad which froze so hard, I might need dental work. A few of my beers are still defrosting at this time. My turkey and salami were shivering.

Moved thermostat to 3.

Jonathan
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Old 05-07-2004, 03:55 PM   #385
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I forgot what the mid temp setting is but at that setting we put a wireless thermometer in the refrigerator side and measured 37 degrees at its coldest and -10 degrees in the freezer compartment.

Jack
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Old 05-07-2004, 05:28 PM   #386
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A.E. Milliman
We did find a problem with the dead bolt lock --same issuse with the Bambi--
Best,
I swore I was done bothering you guys about my issues, but this caught my eye.

I can't lock my dead bolt completely with the key. It goes a fraction of the way closed, enough to catch the lock, but won't go the entire way closed.

I can lock it manually when I'm inside the trailer (although it seems to hit about half way shot, about the same place the key stops).

The bolt wobbles somewhat, and I suspect it's getting caught someplace. It looks like it's properly lined up, and the door is closed tightly before I try to lock it.

Are your dead bolt problems similar to mine, or different?

John

Ps. I Walbernized the entire trailer yesterday, including the roof. That stuff goes on real EEEEasy! I could reach the entire roof with my 8' step ladder. I stood on the next-to-top step of the ladder and leaned over the top of the trailer, just reaching the middle from each side...WHEW! Then, I got her put in the inside storage right before the rain came. (Inside self-storage unit is a bit pricy, but real nice! I have an individual unit - cement floor, block walls on 2 outside walls and aluminum on top and other wall, 14'W x 40'L x 16'H)
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Old 05-07-2004, 05:42 PM   #387
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John,

I had the same thing happen with ours. The lock system is a pretty basic design. I took the two screw out from the inside and carefully removed the outside keyed piece, then the metal bar inside.

I then took all the internal contact parts and coated them with white lithium grease, then re-assembled. It is not as bad as it was, though sometimes it does still bind-- it is FAR less now. I plan on working with Jackson Center with it in the long run.....one thing I did notice yesterday was that in the wheel well street side, there was no caulk between the rear frame piece and the body, I could see the insualtation from the wheel well!

Also noticed that the caulk on the curbside, I could fit my finger in some of the gaps in the caulk gaining access to the bellypan and insuation as well. Now if my finger can get in there, then water will too and I'm a bit concerned that mold could start if not addressed soon, since the wheel wells do tend to get fairly wet when in travel when the pavement is wet. I may ask for or buy some of the caulk they used and re-caulk (or actually caulk it for the first time) it as it is not a hard thing to do, and frankly, not worth driving even a few hours away to the closest dealer for..... one thing that I did notice is that someone attmepted to place a type of putty in some of the lacking area...problem is that it just fell out. The caulk that is there looks like someone squirted it out of the tube at random.

I'm finding a few small odds and ends now that it's warm out and starting to clean up and use the trailer.

Also had an issue with the tank sensor...Airstream customer service hooked me up. Very pleased. Then actually spoke with the owner of the tank monitoring system. Really great guy too!

All in all very small things so far.
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Old 05-07-2004, 09:31 PM   #388
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You may want to watch that dead bolt issuse. We had locked ours (on the Bambi) one evening & then couldn't get it open. Talk about frantic!!! I wouldn't fit thru that small window of the Bambi, if there had been an emergency. Another time I was locked out in a mall parking lot. Talk about embarrassed!! Seemed everyone came had a snide remark regarding A/S & thier cost. The lock became such an issuse, that we no longer trusted the it & stopped using it. Defeated the purpose of the security system and really made the wife uneasy. Now it appears the new "Titan One" has perhaps the same problem. So I'd be careful if you're having lock problems, until you're sure it's been corrected. Also with the LP detector, according to our owners manual they are wired directly into the battery & fused somewhere with I believe 1amp. What I've done & it's an individual call, is to wire in a switch to shut the detector off when in storage to avoid the battery drain. if you do MAKE sure you put it on your predeparture list of things to do (turn it on)before moving out.
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Old 05-21-2004, 07:41 AM   #389
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Zip Dee Awning and Roof Seam Questions

Don't know whether this is the proper place to ask these questions but they seem to relate to quality issues - questions related to my new 30' Classic.

1. When I was putting Walbernize on my trailer a week or so ago, I noticed that the roller tubes on my Zip Dee awnings were all different - or at least they were assembled differently. When viewed from the top side, the roller tube on my main streetside awning almost fits right up next to the trailer, with only a fraction of an inch of awning material exposed to the weather. However, on the front roadside awning, which is a rather large long awning, the top of the roller tube is well over an inch away from the trailer, leaving all that width of awning material exposed to the weather, and to act as a gutter, catching all the dirt, water and other debris that may assemble on the top of it. IS THIS NORMALLY THE WAY ZIP DEE AWNINGS ARE MANUFACTIRED/INSTALLED? I asked this question to 2 of the top manufacturing/quality guys at Airstream, who said they didn't know!

2. The roof on my trailer has a seam in the aluminum (not quite in the middle, but slightly offset from the middle) running the entire length of the trailer. IS THIS THE WAY THESE MODELS ARE NORMALLY ASSEMBLED?
I'd would have thought off hand that the roof would be in one piece to protect against leaks, but perhaps this add structural integrety or something.


Please excuse my ignorance in asking these questions, but you gotta learn somewhere, and you guys are a godsend!

John
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Old 05-31-2004, 07:56 PM   #390
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Good questions. If I read this right are you talking about a seam that can be seen from the inside. If so, I too can see a slight seam coming through the foam inside stuff. I also read about your front lower trim piece coming loose. I would not be concerned with water entering the coach, but of course if something broke and it popped out, it could be possible.

Not that it is close, but have you considered a trip to Jackson Center?

I will most likely be heading out that way in the late fall for a small punch list of things. Not my idea of fun (10 hours round trip), but I feel better that the factory is fixing it rather than some of the local dealers around me. The only other good one near me I think is Ace Fogdall, but they are the same distance as Jackson Center.......
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Old 05-31-2004, 10:51 PM   #391
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My descriptions of these 2 issues weren't very descriptive.
My question about the roof was that it (the exterior) is made from 2 pieces of aluminum (with the white baked-on finish), each of which run the entire length of the trailer. I wondered why Airstream didn't make the roof with one piece of this material, so there wasn't a seam (caulked) running the entire length of the trailer (susceptible to water leaks, etc.).
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Old 06-01-2004, 07:39 AM   #392
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Just a guess, but there are two different width coaches. The wide body and the non. I suspect, and this is only a guess, that could be the reason why there is not one sheet up there. Not a very good answer I know, but the only obvious to me that comes to mind.

Also, I would not worry too much about the external caulk lines. I consider them a secondary sealer. The joints themselves are caulked underneath and inside where the rivet line is (which should also be where the joint is) also is sealed. If you take a look at:

www.silvertwinkie.org

Take a peek at some of the construction coaches on page 2 about halfway down. The ones that still don't have interiors, you can see a grey type of sealer that is applied to the internal side of the external sheetmetal. I think in most cases this caulk and the caulk between the sheetmetal pieces makes a good watertight seal even if the ugly caulk should fail. Same holds true I believe for that trim piece that pulled away out front on your coach (unless other damage caused it or there was a rivet failure and a hole left behind).
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