Help track the quality of the '04s!

[Silvertwinkie]

Jonathan,

Don't sweat it. You'll do just fine. You'll get the hang of it in no time...in the meantime, there are plenty of folks that can help back your CCD in to the site.

One other thing I forgot to mention is about the fridge. I was told by R & R, not to really set the fridge to more than 3 unless it's way hot out and/or in direct sunlight. I found that if I turned it up more than 3 and left it above 3 overnight, the whole unit was one big freezer!

Three seems to be the magic number and also seems to work well with the larger 2 door unit in the Safari as well.

Eric

[jcanavera]

Originally Posted by crazylev

Jack.

I hope there is someone there that can help park, because so far backing this thing up is next to impossible. It took us about 25 minutes just to get into our storage space, which is 40 feet by 10 feet.

Jonathan

One thing I did was to take the trailer to a large empty parking lot. I brought 2 plastic wastecans and put brooms in them. I used them as markers and proceded to learn how to back the trailer. You screw up you don't dent anything. That's the way I learned!

Jack

[Big Dee]

Yea backing my 30' is a lot easier than my old 25'. I imagine the 19' is a little tricky with one axle. But go slow and I bet it will be no problem before long.

By the way, I can hear the party from the rally already! You guys pipe down....

[crazylev]

Eric.

Yes. The fridge was on and running when I arrived at Sherry. It was set to #7!

Dinner was a mixed gren salad which froze so hard, I might need dental work. A few of my beers are still defrosting at this time. My turkey and salami were shivering.

Moved thermostat to 3.

Jonathan

[jcanavera]

I forgot what the mid temp setting is but at that setting we put a wireless thermometer in the refrigerator side and measured 37 degrees at its coldest and -10 degrees in the freezer compartment.

Jack

[flyfisher]

Originally Posted by A.E. Milliman

We did find a problem with the dead bolt lock --same issuse with the Bambi--
Best,

I swore I was done bothering you guys about my issues, but this caught my eye.

I can't lock my dead bolt completely with the key. It goes a fraction of the way closed, enough to catch the lock, but won't go the entire way closed.

I can lock it manually when I'm inside the trailer (although it seems to hit about half way shot, about the same place the key stops).

The bolt wobbles somewhat, and I suspect it's getting caught someplace. It looks like it's properly lined up, and the door is closed tightly before I try to lock it.

Are your dead bolt problems similar to mine, or different?

John

Ps. I Walbernized the entire trailer yesterday, including the roof. That stuff goes on real EEEEasy! I could reach the entire roof with my 8' step ladder. I stood on the next-to-top step of the ladder and leaned over the top of the trailer, just reaching the middle from each side...WHEW! Then, I got her put in the inside storage right before the rain came. (Inside self-storage unit is a bit pricy, but real nice! I have an individual unit - cement floor, block walls on 2 outside walls and aluminum on top and other wall, 14'W x 40'L x 16'H)

[Silvertwinkie]

John,

I had the same thing happen with ours. The lock system is a pretty basic design. I took the two screw out from the inside and carefully removed the outside keyed piece, then the metal bar inside.

I then took all the internal contact parts and coated them with white lithium grease, then re-assembled. It is not as bad as it was, though sometimes it does still bind-- it is FAR less now. I plan on working with Jackson Center with it in the long run.....one thing I did notice yesterday was that in the wheel well street side, there was no caulk between the rear frame piece and the body, I could see the insualtation from the wheel well!

Also noticed that the caulk on the curbside, I could fit my finger in some of the gaps in the caulk gaining access to the bellypan and insuation as well. Now if my finger can get in there, then water will too and I'm a bit concerned that mold could start if not addressed soon, since the wheel wells do tend to get fairly wet when in travel when the pavement is wet. I may ask for or buy some of the caulk they used and re-caulk (or actually caulk it for the first time) it as it is not a hard thing to do, and frankly, not worth driving even a few hours away to the closest dealer for..... one thing that I did notice is that someone attmepted to place a type of putty in some of the lacking area...problem is that it just fell out. The caulk that is there looks like someone squirted it out of the tube at random.

I'm finding a few small odds and ends now that it's warm out and starting to clean up and use the trailer.

Also had an issue with the tank sensor...Airstream customer service hooked me up. Very pleased. Then actually spoke with the owner of the tank monitoring system. Really great guy too!

All in all very small things so far.

[WayWard Wind]

You may want to watch that dead bolt issuse. We had locked ours (on the Bambi) one evening & then couldn't get it open. Talk about frantic!!! I wouldn't fit thru that small window of the Bambi, if there had been an emergency. Another time I was locked out in a mall parking lot. Talk about embarrassed!! Seemed everyone came had a snide remark regarding A/S & thier cost. The lock became such an issuse, that we no longer trusted the it & stopped using it. Defeated the purpose of the security system and really made the wife uneasy. Now it appears the new "Titan One" has perhaps the same problem. So I'd be careful if you're having lock problems, until you're sure it's been corrected. Also with the LP detector, according to our owners manual they are wired directly into the battery & fused somewhere with I believe 1amp. What I've done & it's an individual call, is to wire in a switch to shut the detector off when in storage to avoid the battery drain. if you do MAKE sure you put it on your predeparture list of things to do (turn it on)before moving out.
Best,

[flyfisher]

Don't know whether this is the proper place to ask these questions but they seem to relate to quality issues - questions related to my new 30' Classic.

1. When I was putting Walbernize on my trailer a week or so ago, I noticed that the roller tubes on my Zip Dee awnings were all different - or at least they were assembled differently. When viewed from the top side, the roller tube on my main streetside awning almost fits right up next to the trailer, with only a fraction of an inch of awning material exposed to the weather. However, on the front roadside awning, which is a rather large long awning, the top of the roller tube is well over an inch away from the trailer, leaving all that width of awning material exposed to the weather, and to act as a gutter, catching all the dirt, water and other debris that may assemble on the top of it. IS THIS NORMALLY THE WAY ZIP DEE AWNINGS ARE MANUFACTIRED/INSTALLED? I asked this question to 2 of the top manufacturing/quality guys at Airstream, who said they didn't know!

2. The roof on my trailer has a seam in the aluminum (not quite in the middle, but slightly offset from the middle) running the entire length of the trailer. IS THIS THE WAY THESE MODELS ARE NORMALLY ASSEMBLED?
I'd would have thought off hand that the roof would be in one piece to protect against leaks, but perhaps this add structural integrety or something.


Please excuse my ignorance in asking these questions, but you gotta learn somewhere, and you guys are a godsend!

John

[Silvertwinkie]

Good questions. If I read this right are you talking about a seam that can be seen from the inside. If so, I too can see a slight seam coming through the foam inside stuff. I also read about your front lower trim piece coming loose. I would not be concerned with water entering the coach, but of course if something broke and it popped out, it could be possible.

Not that it is close, but have you considered a trip to Jackson Center?

I will most likely be heading out that way in the late fall for a small punch list of things. Not my idea of fun (10 hours round trip), but I feel better that the factory is fixing it rather than some of the local dealers around me. The only other good one near me I think is Ace Fogdall, but they are the same distance as Jackson Center.......

[flyfisher]

My descriptions of these 2 issues weren't very descriptive.
My question about the roof was that it (the exterior) is made from 2 pieces of aluminum (with the white baked-on finish), each of which run the entire length of the trailer. I wondered why Airstream didn't make the roof with one piece of this material, so there wasn't a seam (caulked) running the entire length of the trailer (susceptible to water leaks, etc.).

[Silvertwinkie]

Just a guess, but there are two different width coaches. The wide body and the non. I suspect, and this is only a guess, that could be the reason why there is not one sheet up there. Not a very good answer I know, but the only obvious to me that comes to mind.

Also, I would not worry too much about the external caulk lines. I consider them a secondary sealer. The joints themselves are caulked underneath and inside where the rivet line is (which should also be where the joint is) also is sealed. If you take a look at:

www.silvertwinkie.org

Take a peek at some of the construction coaches on page 2 about halfway down. The ones that still don't have interiors, you can see a grey type of sealer that is applied to the internal side of the external sheetmetal. I think in most cases this caulk and the caulk between the sheetmetal pieces makes a good watertight seal even if the ugly caulk should fail. Same holds true I believe for that trim piece that pulled away out front on your coach (unless other damage caused it or there was a rivet failure and a hole left behind).

[flyfisher]

I just got a prompt reply from Dave Schumann regarding the "molding" separation. He says "...the metal behind the rubrail overlaps and is sealed. Water should not be a problem" That makes me feel better, at least about the potential for water getting in there.

I've also been to the plant a couple times and seen the sealer that is applied to the inside of the trailers that you're talking about. As you know, any time there's a seam there's also added potential for water getting into it, no matter how careful one is in manufacturing.

We are taking our trailer to Jackson Center on June 30 to get some of the repairs done. Then, my wife and I are off into the wild blue yonder (MT, ID, WY BC, Canada, and where ever the fishing is good, the water cold, and the air crisp and clear) for the better part of the rest of the summer.

John

[gklott]

Is this a normal 18 month warranty issue list?

Once again, am working with North Dallas RV. They have the list, and they will begin work next week.

With all the experience on this site, will this list start to drop, or do I need some form of extended warranty?

This could get really expensive if I had to repair all this each year.

73/gus

1. Steps – channel bent and skin needs a rivet
2. Shower continues to leak. It seeps out onto the bathroom floor from the shower corner nearest the master door.
3. Replace flooring - cut prior to delivery. Just now have time for replacement.
4. Hot water tank leaking directly from heater unit.
5. Fresh water tank not holding water. Can't see leak point.
6. Front curb stabilizer needs replacing - threaded rod out of round.
7. Excessive vibration on curb front wheel. Causes odd tire wear and Door hinge pin still working it’s way up in transient. it works up 1/2 inch in first hour. Already replaced tire.
8. Large lounge window still difficult to close.
9. Large lounge table knob has pulled out. There is no way to lock into place. This has been a problem in the past. Wonder if AS has come up with an alternative?
10. Need an end piece to the curtain track on the curbside curved lounge window that keeps the curtains from slipping off.
11. Excessive frost build up on front top right area of freezer. This is the same area where the door was bent significantly prior to delivery.
12. Replace broken handle on bathroon vent fan.

[Porky Pig]

Originally Posted by gklott

9. Large lounge table knob has pulled out. There is no way to lock into place. This has been a problem in the past. Wonder if AS has come up with an alternative?

Gus ...

My knob also pulled out. However, I discovered through this forum that you should travel with the table in the "up" position. The Owners Manual also recommends this.

I believe the knob on my table pulled out after towing with the table in the "down" position. Too much vibration and/or movement for that cheap little piece of plastic. Actually, I blame the type of screw used and the type of "wood" for the table.

Having said that ... if one should tow with the table deployed in the up position ... why bother with that knob anyway? It really serves no purpose.

[gklott]

Wow. Thanks on the table info. I missed that in the manual.

[frozen chosen]

[QUOTE=gklott]Is this a normal 18 month warranty issue list?

Gus; can't help but wonder why you ever took posession of this trailer. My God, man, turn it back in as a lemon. AS should buy it back.

[Big Dee]

Gus,

I have the same model and year. When did you take delivery? Mine was built in Febuary during a slow time so I think that is the reason for the less CQ problems I have had compared to others say flyfisher. And my list is, thank god, much shorter than yours.

I find your vibration issue to be horrifying. How bad that vibration must be to push up the door pin up, I can't imagine. Do your sodas explode upon opening?

I can't think of the knob you and Porky are refering to on the lounge table. I always travel with it in the down position with no problems but I have stuff on the ground blocking it from opening. But what knob?

I have had trouble with various windows in getting them to clamp down. But the clamps are adjustable from the outside and that's all fixed.

The only things on my list:

1. The sensor on the gray tank just went out at the end of a 7 week trip. The propane light panel has not worked right for awhile. The gauges on the tanks are working, though.

2. The toilet foot pedal leaked once on the trip when pressing the pedal but has't happened in three weeks since during heavy use. Go figure? I guess the leaky seal re-sealed itself and is working for now.


After re-reading this thread, I feel very fortunate to have such a small list. I had a guardian angel, by the name of Mitch, follow my unit through the production line checking on it and taking pics for me everyday. I have some of the factory workers in my pics. That must have made them be extra careful with my baby.

[Silvertwinkie]

We've used our Safari now for well over 2000 miles this past season.

So far our list of items has somewhat remained as static since we took delivery. I was thinking the other day, that Airstream should have at a min, a 3-5 year warranty like most auto makers. I mean if the coach is as good as they say, an additional year or so would make no difference right? It would however be another thing that would make the coach stand out among other RVs. Of course, what I'd really like to see the old days brought back where the orig owner has a lifetime warranty.

At any rate, Gus, I know you worked with the factory at the beginning, but have you spoken with them since? Given the growth of your list, I can clearly see the lemon laws starting to form here (provided you kept records of repairs that could not be fixed). You have a beautiful coach, but just seems loaded with problems. At some point, you as the customer seem to have this second life called Airstream repair. Granted things are going to happen, but from the sound of your ongoing saga, I gotta tell ya, if it is as long and as bad as you say, that is NO way for a consumer to have to live with a product. If it were your car or your TV, I am sure you'd have a different take on it. At some point, something has got to give as this is just too much IMHO for even the boldest Airstreamer. Call the factory.

BTW, here is a shameless plug for the same type of thread, but for the 2005s.

http://www.airforums.com/forum...=track+quality

[Dave Jenkins]

Originally Posted by gklott

Is this a normal 18 month warranty issue list?

[snip]

2. Shower continues to leak. It seeps out onto the bathroom floor from the shower corner nearest the master door.

[snip]

Our shower also leaks (may be fixed - we'll soon see...). It generally showed up at the floor corner just forward of the shower door, but was sometimes bad enough that it ran along the floor in front of the entire width of the shower.

We took it to the dealer for warranty repairs, and they have installed clear seal/caulking along all seams (mainly to the left and right of the door, top to bottom) and caulked where the top and bottom part of the shower fit together. I believe that if it leaks now, it must be coming from the plumbing behind the shower. I doubt that, though.

It appers to me that there was no caulking at all in those seams before the repair, but it's really too late to tell now. The repair guys did an ok job installing the seal, but some of it shows on the edges of the seam. Even though it's hardly noticeable, it bugs me that if they'd done it right in the first place, we wouldn't have worry about the slightly rough extra caulk being a breeding ground for mold and algae.