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05-12-2014, 09:52 PM
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#1941
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Rivet Master
2012 30' Flying Cloud
San Antonio
, Texas
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 682
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Yep, too much gasket to try to caulk everything. I would still caulk the area between the LED light and it's plastic chrome base. That area , uncaulked will take in water to the back of the light and also try to send it toward wiring hole on the trailer skin underneath.
Look under: Forums; Exterior restoration;, exterior clearcoat skin, etc at a post of mine from yesterday. You can save that $300 for the Classic bases by doing some painting instead of buying all stainless. Good luck again, you are smart addressing the known AS issues now while new and before something gets damaged or Filiform is staring you in the eye.
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05-12-2014, 10:09 PM
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#1942
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Rivet Master
2012 30' Flying Cloud
San Antonio
, Texas
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 682
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Forgot. No it won't destroy the lights. They snap into square slots in the plastic chrome bases. Two snaps. Grab light with both hands and rock side to side while pulling away from trailer. Once free the light wiring runs through a rubber grommet into the trailer. It will be caulked so be careful not to pull the wires out of the back of the light itself. AS recommends spraying some silicone spray on the caulked wires to help. You have either 3 or 4 inches of wire to work with. Don't pull wires out farther than that. Think 3 inches to be on safe side. Had a pix of the back of the light and snaps, can't find it on this iPad. It is posted on this thread somewhere.
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05-12-2014, 10:29 PM
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#1943
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Rivet Master
2014 25' FB International
Little Rock
, Arkansas
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 594
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Thanks again. I think the light bases have moved to the top of my list. It's going to drive me crazy when in rains worrying about water leaking.
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05-13-2014, 04:57 AM
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#1944
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3 Rivet Member
2017 25' International
Joliet
, Illinois
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 154
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This was posted on another thread.
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05-13-2014, 09:17 PM
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#1945
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Rivet Master
2014 30' FB FC Bunk
Hoover
, Alabama
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 3,530
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Yeah - my 2014 bunkhouse has those gaskets - I'll be watching for water intrusion like a hawk - if any within my 2 year warranty I'll make them replace with the classic bases
If all is well by 2 years I'll roll on with it I suppose
We are camping - we are supposed to get some rain tomorrow and definately some tomorrow night - I'll report back Thursday after and see if any intrusion
I got a clear coat pen from advanced auto - brand turtle wax - I had a few scratches from whacking the side of the AS with the hose part if the water hose (do t ask it was dumb) - I covered those small scratches with that clear coat before heading down to topsail - have not had the time get to use it on all exposed cut edges - will do later
__________________
“The atoms of our bodies are traceable to stars that manufactured them...We are not figuratively, but literally stardust.”
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05-20-2014, 12:40 PM
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#1946
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2 Rivet Member
2003 28' Classic
Ladysmith
, Wisconsin
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 71
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Corrosion problems with new Airstreams
What's the general consensus on basic care to stop the spread of filiform from the experienced folks ?
1. CorrosionX - wipe on the spots ?
2. Dab corrosionX on the rivets and seams ?
3. Use Boeshield on bottom where jacks are and on rims ?
4. Wash and wax - keep trailer clean ?
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05-20-2014, 12:44 PM
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#1947
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2 Rivet Member
2003 28' Classic
Ladysmith
, Wisconsin
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JacobMerridy
What's the general consensus on basic care to stop the spread of filiform from the experienced folks ?
1. CorrosionX - wipe on the spots ?
2. Dab corrosionX on the rivets and seams ?
3. Use Boeshield on bottom where jacks are and on rims ?
4. Wash and wax - keep trailer clean ?
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My filiform situation. There are smaller spots around the panels of the Airstream where filiform is beginning.
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05-20-2014, 12:46 PM
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#1948
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Rivet Master
2014 25' FB International
Little Rock
, Arkansas
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 594
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That about sums it up. If you have any filiform there are a couple of more "aggressive options" that have been used. Read this thread backwards and you'll find them. Our 23FB had a couple of tiny spots. I treated them as you described and in two years they never spread.
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05-20-2014, 12:55 PM
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#1949
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2 Rivet Member
2003 28' Classic
Ladysmith
, Wisconsin
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 71
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K - thanks for heads up.
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05-20-2014, 08:10 PM
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#1950
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2020 Classic 33
Box Elder
, South Dakota
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 1,731
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Having seen the marker lights they appear to be totally sealed. Even the wires out the back are sealed so doubt that they should pick up any water other than any normal condensation that occurs on a sealed item that is exposed to the sun.
There is also grey caulking around each screw through the base that totally cover what I will describe as the two circular mounting areas that protrude through the foam to keep everything sealed.
Took the storage yard whacking an interior wall to knock my light off the mount. Light popped loose, mount was fine but had to remove it to reattach one of the wire leads.
__________________
Gary
2020 Classic 33 Twin, 2019 Ram 3500 Longhorn, ProPride
NØVPN
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05-20-2014, 09:25 PM
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#1951
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Rivet Master
2012 30' Flying Cloud
San Antonio
, Texas
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 682
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ghaynes755
Having seen the marker lights they appear to be totally sealed. Even the wires out the back are sealed so doubt that they should pick up any water other than any normal condensation that occurs on a sealed item that is exposed to the sun.
There is also grey caulking around each screw through the base that totally cover what I will describe as the two circular mounting areas that protrude through the foam to keep everything sealed.
Took the storage yard whacking an interior wall to knock my light off the mount. Light popped loose, mount was fine but had to remove it to reattach one of the wire leads.
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You may be lucky and have no lights that leak. But, fact is that some will probably take in water and some of those will be severe. Thing is, if you do find that one or two start picking up moisture inside and you want to fix, do all the lights. There is plenty of info posted on this thread that will guide a total fix. Just depends on how much you want to get involved. Do remember, however, water in LED lighting is much more damaging than inside older incandescents--meaning the light will fail.
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05-21-2014, 04:17 PM
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#1952
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Rivet Master
2012 30' Flying Cloud
San Antonio
, Texas
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 682
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Does anyone know when Airstream stopped using Alclad aluminum and went to a plain aluminum alloy sheet for exterior construction? Was it at the same time that Alcoa started finishing the AL sheets with baked on clear coat? Or was it earlier than that?
Thanks
Howard
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05-21-2014, 04:28 PM
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#1953
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Rivet Master
2014 25' FB International
Little Rock
, Arkansas
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 594
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05-21-2014, 05:18 PM
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#1954
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2 Rivet Member
2003 28' Classic
Ladysmith
, Wisconsin
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 71
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The documentation Airstream maintains is impressive. I bet their job costing bill of materials system is equally impressive.
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05-21-2014, 05:51 PM
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#1955
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Rivet Master
2012 30' Flying Cloud
San Antonio
, Texas
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 682
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So in the 70s it was 6061 or 3003, 3004 alloys. It appears that the pure aluminum clad stopped in the 60s. Does any one know if the trailers after the Alclad (2024-t3) stopped being used will polish to a high shine.
I'm asking so to try to work back in time for a better understanding of Filiform. For sure it raised it's ugly head with the start of Alcoa's baked on clear coat in the late 90s.
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05-21-2014, 07:51 PM
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#1956
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Rivet Master
2014 25' FB International
Little Rock
, Arkansas
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 594
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Colin Hyde may be a good person to ask. I've been curious lately how the clearcoat on the earliest pre-coated AS's are holding up. I guess this would mean 1998. I wonder if this clear coat will eventually peel off like the vintage.
There is an AS in our WBCCI unit. It's a 99, and the clear coat is failing on the end cap. It could be that the end caps weren't pre-coated. That chart I posted seems to indicate some segments on the 98/99's weren't pre-coated.
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05-21-2014, 07:56 PM
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#1957
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Rivet Master
Currently Looking...
asbury park
, New Jersey
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 905
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Howard L, if it helps.. I've seen trailers from the 2000's polished. I have had and seen quite a few airstreams , mostly from the 50s and 60s. We recently got a 77 airstream from fl with so so much corrosion it's ridiculous. I've never seen a 50s or 60s with filoform like this. I often see 70s trailers polished. I don't often see many 80s or 90d or 2000s polished.
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05-25-2014, 09:51 PM
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#1958
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Rivet Master
2012 30' Flying Cloud
San Antonio
, Texas
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 682
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Landrum
Colin Hyde may be a good person to ask. I've been curious lately how the clearcoat on the earliest pre-coated AS's are holding up. I guess this would mean 1998. I wonder if this clear coat will eventually peel off like the vintage.
There is an AS in our WBCCI unit. It's a 99, and the clear coat is failing on the end cap. It could be that the end caps weren't pre-coated. That chart I posted seems to indicate some segments on the 98/99's weren't pre-coated.
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I've been wondering also Landrum. Will some of you early posters with early 2000s trailers let us know how the Baked-on Alcoa clear coat on the skin is holding up itself. Is it still clear, turning hazy or yellow. Has it peeled anywhere, like the older plastic coats? Also if you will, post your thoughts on the later progression of skin Filiform once you started a maintenance program with corrosion X or Corrosion Block. Are new areas popping up like in the beginning or did the Filiform attacks slow to almost a stop. Also, as time has gone by, have you noticed more spots of Filiform on the skin of the molded/formed end caps?
Thanks
Howard
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05-25-2014, 11:56 PM
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#1959
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Rivet Master
1974 Argosy 20
2014 20' Flying Cloud
Kooskia
, Idaho
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 4,591
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Howard L.
So in the 70s it was 6061 or 3003, 3004 alloys. It appears that the pure aluminum clad stopped in the 60s. Does any one know if the trailers after the Alclad (2024-t3) stopped being used will polish to a high shine.
I'm asking so to try to work back in time for a better understanding of Filiform. For sure it raised it's ugly head with the start of Alcoa's baked on clear coat in the late 90s.
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I know that Filiform did occur on a 1971 AS that I owned. Original clear coat.
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05-26-2014, 10:22 AM
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#1960
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2 Rivet Member
2003 28' Classic
Ladysmith
, Wisconsin
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 71
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For me and my 2003, Filiform spots are many, most about the size of a pencil eraser, I bottled them with T-9 and CX. I'm not going to worry about it and enjoy the trailer. It not a big deal to me.
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