Corrosion problems with new Airstreams

[Gene]

Originally Posted by Goal15

Hey, look who crawled out of a snowbank. . . lol

Hasn't snowed enough yet, but remodeling one house and trying to sell the other takes a bit of time….

Well, the new house had about 5" of snow when we got there a week or so ago. I brought the snow blower just in time. Better not snow a lot in Crawford with 850' of driveway—new house has steeper driveway, so it gets the snowblower.

Back to corrosion….

Gene

[Silvertwinkie]

Amazes me that here we are about 6 years from the start of this thread and we're all still guessing, trying to prevent the inevitable through a variety of methods.

As has been discussed, every breach into the sheet metal, in addition to dissimilar metals increases the risk of corrosion appearing. It's my understanding that the factory no longer has exposed belt lines, which has reduced the corrosion at the belt line for the most part, but has not addressed other areas (rivets, window/door cuts, running/clearance lights, etc).

Hard to fathom, but my trailer, as of the date of manufacture, will be crossing the 10 year mark in about a day or two (seems like only yesterday I made the trip to Ohio to pick it up). I consider myself one of the lucky ones as I've seen some trailers that have been far younger than mine that look like they are far older in many aspects, including, but not limited to corrosion.

[Howard L.]

Originally Posted by Silvertwinkie

Amazes me that here we are about 6 years from the start of this thread and we're all still guessing, trying to prevent the inevitable through a variety of methods. As has been discussed, every breach into the sheet metal, in addition to dissimilar metals increases the risk of corrosion appearing. It's my understanding that the factory no longer has exposed belt lines, which has reduced the corrosion at the belt line for the most part, but has not addressed other areas (rivets, window/door cuts, running/clearance lights, etc). Hard to fathom, but my trailer, as of the date of manufacture, will be crossing the 10 year mark in about a day or two (seems like only yesterday I made the trip to Ohio to pick it up). I consider myself one of the lucky ones as I've seen some trailers that have been far younger than mine that look like they are far older in many aspects, including, but not limited to corrosion.

I'm sure 6 1/2 years ago when you started this thread, you had no earthly idea it would have the staying power it has had. Too bad to, as it would have been so nice for hundreds of us if it was a problem that went away. Thanks to you however, as a group we have come up with some ways to minimize the problem. The company has become involved in some of the problems also, such as the clearance light issues. Since early detection and treatment is the key to keeping the problem to a minimum, the company should, IMHO, post a bulletin in a "New Owners Packet" noting what to watch for and what to do. We haven't seen that, I doubt we ever will and that's too bad. Info in the manual and at JC on what to do after the fact. Whoopee.

Howard

[Gene]

Howard and Eric, you are both correct. We have had little corrosion except on door hinges and tail lights. We had the molding installed on the belt line pretty early in our ownership of the trailer.

The best way to prevent corrosion is to move to the desert.

Gene

[PharmGeek]

A bit if the filiform on the grab handle so far and that is all I've spotted

I've treated all seems and such with corrosion x (I think I made that job messier than I had to) - went to canopener - washed when I got back - so far so good...boeshield T9 underneath and in hitch

I wonder if I should put boeshield on wheels too?

[PharmGeek]

I was still weeping (weeping is a bit if a strong word) corrosion x from the seems while in Fl...the belt line really soaked it in - wiped down excess a couple times

[Howard L.]

Pharm, you did good. In my book there is no such thing as too much "X". Actually there probably is, but error on the too much, messy side. Many ideas on the wheels. I sprayed Boeshield on real thick, running off at the bottom. Let sit overnight and next day with it set up waxy thick like, I wiped off all excess. This leaves a waxy film, but is not noticeable. Like my hull, I started late when some corrosion was already showing on the rims. But, I've done the treatment only once and no progression of corrosion nor anything new. Grab handle, door hinges and maybe tail light castings are going to fail. When tired of looking at them: 2000 grit sand and re-clearcoat or keep polished. Keep an eye on the wheel-well trim pieces also.

[decanada]

Dick McIntyre of Monroe, OR refinished several Airstreams with the corrosion problem this last summer. He has discovered several reasons why this problem exists and has some expert advice for you. Email him at 26941dawsonrd@gmail.com

[Moflash]

What are the reasons he has found??

[PharmGeek]

This individual should get on the forums and put it on here!!

I'll email him though and report back perhaps

[Tater]

I have finished installing the cast pieces on all the marker lights. I removed each one and sanded with 2000 grit sandpaper until I got no more white and the area was smooth. I treated it with Corrosion X, wiped several times and used the clear coat pen to cover the area with clear. When I sealed my lights I used AdSeal on the bases of the cast piece and around the light base that screws to the trailer as well as the screw holes. Then I used Acryl-R around the cast base, the screw down base where it meets the cast base and around the seam of the plastic lens. I wiped everything with alcohol as I was cleaning. I tried to make sure I had a small space at the bottom of each in case water became trapped inside somewhere. As soon as it warms up a little more, I will was the trailer and apply Corrosion X to the seams and rivets. I don't really want to get much Corrosion X inside the seams as I don't want to take a chance on that product affecting the seals between panels. If you look closely you would probably see Acryl-R not perfectly applied but you won't see any pen holes or breaks in the seal.

[PharmGeek]

I'll hit the rims with the T9 for sure.

How the hell do I dissolve the X from the microfiber - put in washer with detergent - seeming did nothing

[Howard L.]

Originally Posted by Tater

I have finished installing the cast pieces on all the marker lights. I removed each one and sanded with 2000 grit sandpaper until I got no more white and the area was smooth. I treated it with Corrosion X, wiped several times and used the clear coat pen to cover the area with clear. When I sealed my lights I used AdSeal on the bases of the cast piece and around the light base that screws to the trailer as well as the screw holes. Then I used Acryl-R around the cast base, the screw down base where it meets the cast base and around the seam of the plastic lens. I wiped everything with alcohol as I was cleaning. I tried to make sure I had a small space at the bottom of each in case water became trapped inside somewhere. As soon as it warms up a little more, I will was the trailer and apply Corrosion X to the seams and rivets. I don't really want to get much Corrosion X inside the seams as I don't want to take a chance on that product affecting the seals between panels. If you look closely you would probably see Acryl-R not perfectly applied but you won't see any pen holes or breaks in the seal.

How did you like working with the AdSeal compared to the Acryl-R? Did not know of the AS recommendation. Easy to use, easy to clean ip, etc? I wouldn't worry about the X and Acryl r. X won't bother the sealant and is only applied to protect any small area of missing clear cost that might be present at the seam areas.

PS.. Pharm, your wife is going to shoot you for putting that corrosion x in the washer.

[Tater]

I liked the as to work with. Easy to use in caulk gun. Clean up easy too. Used ACRYL-R 3 passes with flashlight inspection. I used candle warmer and applied with flat tiny paintbrush.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Airstream Forums mobile app

[pagoff]

Correct me if I'm wrong. Airstreams have had this problem for almost 10 years. (Mine is a 2006) And as far as I know it still occurs on new units.

I've read the frequent comments on this thread and there appears to be many approaches. Yet I've not seen any definitive pronouncement from the company on management of the problem. Yes corrosion X and bioshield is recommended but even after using it for several years I'm not convinced it works.

Further there appears to be no recommended fix for the corrosion from Airstream. I've read about sanding and using clear coat but is this their recommendation? What specific products do they recommend when redoing the clear coat?

We all paid a premium for our Airstreams. I'm surprised and disappointed at their lack of interest. And while we like our Airstream I'm not at all sure I'd recommend it without serious reservations to new buyers.

[Rocinante]

Who has called Airstream directly to discuss this issue, and what did they say?

[PharmGeek]

With so little data - it would be hard to say if it works or not for sure - we have only anecdotal data that seems to suggest it may in some cases help - particularly convincing anecdotes is folks having filiform then applying and vaulting the spread - while other examples untreated keep on going

Have there been many examples where preventative methods have largely failed at prevention or mitigation?

In essence - on what basis do you feel the X doesn't work?

I don't ask because I think you are wrong - rather genuinely curious if other anecdotes say otherwise

Your hesitation to recommend is reasonable enough - I too would hope that AS will address this issue more so - although I knew of it prior so....yeah - I'll be keeping an eye

[PharmGeek]

Silvery Moon - I recall earlier in this thread this was discussed.....

[Howard L.]

""Further there appears to be no recommended fix for the corrosion from Airstream. I've read about sanding and using clear coat but is this their recommendation? What specific products do they recommend when redoing the clear coat? ""

To my knowledge, Airstream officially talks about corrosion repair only in a 6 page instruction, including photos, that covers the full procedure used in "Upgrading 2009 and subsequent trailer teardrop lights with the aluminum castings ( a-la the Classic clearance lights). In these published repair/install procedures, instructions are given to identify any area around the teardrop light base that may need: "attention". The word Filiform or corrosion is not used. The clean up of the areas needing "attention" directs the use of a dremel steel wheel followed by corrosion X or Boeshield and then re-clear coat with the acrylic pen approved for use by the company. With all this however, the instructions apply only to the areas around the clearance light base that has Filiform present but will be hidden after the new "Classic cast bases" are installed. Instructions specify to not attempt repair of any area outside the coverage of the new castings.

There may be another publication about corrosion and or Filiform repair that happens at rivets, seams or just plain old out in the middle of a panel, but I know of none. The above procedure will stop and reseal a Filiform area but no one would use a steel wheel on the skin where it could be seen, and here the company directs nothing outside the newly covered cast base area.

What if the Filiform damage from the original clearance light bases goes beyond the new cast base covered area? Airstream doesn't say--not addressed at all. I would love to see Airstream address skin corrosion as a potential problem and recommendations as to how to minimize or prevent. My guess, this forum is going to continue to be the best owners guide.

[ROBERTSUNRUS]

Originally Posted by PharmGeek

A bit of the filiform on the grab handle so far and that is all I've spotted

I've treated all seems and such with corrosion x (I think I made that job messier than I had to) - went to canopener - washed when I got back - so far so good...boeshield T9 underneath and in hitch

I wonder if I should put boeshield on wheels too?

Hi, and a few years back, Airstream started using a rubber gasket between the handle and skin to prevent this problem. [problem not solved]