Corrosion problems with new Airstreams

[PharmGeek]

doug, how exactly do you apply and remove the corrosion X product...spray it on....let it sit? for how long? what is the best thing to wipe it off with? thanks

The boeshileld product seems self explanatory for use on underbelly.

[PharmGeek]

Originally Posted by idroba

I will admit that I have not read all 117 pages of posts on this thread, but has anyone used the Dupont "Pro-Fusion color Scratch Repair Stick" to cover the cut edges of the aluminum where the corrosion seems to start.

They are available in packs of 3 for about $12 at Costco, and are listed as a clear coat scratch repair system. I was wondering if they might be a good way to seal the visible cut edges on my new 2014 FC 20. The ones I have in mind are around the panel which has the rear window in it. It looks to be cut out of a sheet of metal and just riveted in place on the surface of the rear segments. The cut edges are exposed.

If not, what does the group recommend for those edges?

No, but that sounds interesting...others on here have used clearcoat in a liquid form and carefully painted it on to these edges as a preventative measure...I will be doing some version of this...perhaps this "stick" would be even easier? ill have to look into it. wonder how many of these it would take to hit all cut edges....?

[ROBERT CROSS]

I've learned over time there is no preventing condensation in the clearance lights here on the lake in WNY. I need a small vent hole on the bottom of the lens, a low humidity warm sunny day or a couple of hours of bulb warmth to get rid of it. (hence no LED's)
I've managed to get them sealed, they no longer fill with water in the rain, but a little condensation, no corrosion inside....what me worry?

Pharm & Guy's....why not try if you want to seal them air tight?

Bob

[dkottum]

Originally Posted by PharmGeek

doug, how exactly do you apply and remove the corrosion X product...spray it on....let it sit? for how long? what is the best thing to wipe it off with? thanks

The boeshileld product seems self explanatory for use on underbelly.

It doesn't take much because the edges, rivets, scratches and dings are small. I just spray some in the cap and dab on a line of rivets and then the edge with a Q-Tip. Spray hinges, light frames, and fittings. Let it soak a few minutes and wipe off the excess gently. Probably good to do this before heading to the coast and wash as soon as possible when you get home (same day?). Not being near the beach, I treat it quarterly and so far, no trace of corrosion in two years.

Clear-coating the cut edges may help, but if not extremely careful it could be pretty hideous, especially in reflection of sunlight. You cannot reach the punched holes under the rivets this way, so still need regular anti-corrosion treatment for them and exterior fittings.

[Moflash]

Originally Posted by longdog

It's a 5 pound solid zinc anode. I think it will last a while.

I think the anode idea has some merit.Any pics of your installation?

I myself have noticed the filform is in areas where different metals are joined via dissimilar metal screws and bolts its as if there is some form electrolysis taking place. Could be created by all the electrical items in our aluminum trailers.And the aluminum body structure being mounted to steel frames without rubber isolators.

I have yet to see filform on aluminum body automobiles.Even the cars without clearcoat on bare aluminum such as a Kirkham cobra.Now I have seen filform on motorcycle engine cases where two aluminum parts are attached with steel bolts. Hmmmm

[ROBERT CROSS]

It can and does happen on aluminum automobiles...

Bob

[Moflash]

Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS

It can and does happen on aluminum automobiles... Bob

Bob
I have seen salt corrosion on aluminum pieces on cars from coastal regions but that is different from filform.

[Moflash]

In the past, most vehicle panels were made of steel. Today, manufacturers use new metals and plastics to make vehicles lighter and more fuel-efficient. Aluminum, for example, is rapidly becoming standard on many vehicle lines, including Honda, Jaguar and Audi. You’ll find aluminum panels in roofs, hoods, doors, quarter panels, tailgates and fenders. Plastics, as used on the 2005 Corvette cowl panel, are also gaining popularity.

In addition, carmakers rely on new manufacturing techniques. Each weld on a vehicle adds weight. As a result, more manufacturers use adhesives to adhere panels to the vehicle body. These bonds are not only stronger than welds, in some cases they enable manufacturers to bond dissimilar metals. For example, the exterior of a door panel could be aluminum and the interior and framing could be magnesium.

This is important because although steel and aluminum have similar repair guidelines, they are “dissimilar” metals. They can’t come in contact with each other. If they do, and an electrolyte, such as water, is introduced, they will corrode at an accelerated rate. If replacing a windshield on an aluminum vehicle, do not use a steel tool. If the steel tool digs into the aluminum, it will transfer steel particles into the aluminum, causing it to corrode. If you use a tool on aluminum, never use it on steel, and vice versa. The exception to this rule is a stainless steel tool, appropriate for use on both types of metal.

The metals issue applies to quarter glasses, door glasses, vent windows and back glasses as well. On the 2007 Chevy Tahoe, the tailgate is aluminum. The quarter panels on Range Rovers are aluminum. If you’re working on an Audi with an aluminum door and you dig your steel tool into the door while replacing the glass, you can contaminate the door metal.

• Aluminum filiform corrosion occurs when the base metal is exposed to an electrolyte due to improper surface preparation. This type of corrosion looks like the paint is flaking off the metal. It’s white, chalky stuff. Many technicians think they can just wipe it off; that is not the case. This type of corrosion requires surface preparation similar to that of steel. • Aluminum galvanic corrosion occurs when two dissimilar metals come in contact with one another. If steel and aluminum make contact, the aluminum turns to white powder and the steel starts rusting. In a body shop, if an aluminum vehicle comes in and a technician must expose the bare metal, the vehicle is moved to a separate area away from the steel vehicles to reduce the risk of contamination.

[John&Vicki]

I just finished reading (most) of this thread from start to finish. I may have missed it because I did fast forward a couple of times, but I never did find anything that would indicate that AS ever stepped up to remedy this problem for past production. Have they remedied it for current and future production? Have they successfully stonewalled the whole thing?

Pretty shameful if that's the case. I told my wife when I first started reading that it felt like I had seen this movie before and had an idea how it would end. The movie I saw featured Porsche watching 10% of 996's grenade due to intermediate shaft bearing failure and never stepping up.

Poppy

[Moflash]

Porsche did step up and replace thousands of expensive engines after numerous complaints around the world.It cost them millions.
Airstream has not changed their manufacturing process but now offers touch up clear coat pens,Boeshield spray and CorrosionX in the Airstream store for your maintenance pleasure.
Its more of a eyesore than a structural problem.If you are a anal retentive person like myself it will drive you nuts to look at.But Airstream is the finest trailer available so accept the mediocrity and move on.

[Zymurbrian]

The main difference between these two situations is that Porsche made partial restitution to many 996 owners due to a successful class action law suit. We are not so lucky.

[John&Vicki]

I dunno. A lot of really nice 996's out there for cheap. Nice bodies, blown engines.

I don't know how much the AS problem would have bothered me. Probably quite a bit if I spent the big bucks for a new one and it happened right away. Don't really have a horse in this race.

Fortunately never owned a 996 either - I'm a vintage air cooled type. Current license plate on my P-car is H20ONO.

Poppy

[Zymurbrian]

My filiform showed up 2 1/2 months after delivery. That was a total surprise.

[cwf]

I have mentioned before but I don't recall if ever replied.

So, I ask again.

What would happen if we pulled a slight vacuum then applied sealant?

[Howard L.]

Originally Posted by cwf

I have mentioned before but I don't recall if ever replied.

So, I ask again.

What would happen if we pulled a slight vacuum then applied sealant?

A little thick here CWF. Pull a vacuum on what? The clearance lights?

[cwf]

There are folks who pressurize hull then soap outside to look for "bubbles".

I am suggesting to reverse airflow AFTER identifying serious leaks. THEN use the thinner sealant along those areas. I suspect the reverse pressure, "vaccum"/ low pressure will PULL the sealant into the leaky spots.

Maybe I should patent idea? Nah... Let's just see if this helps...

[Howard L.]

Originally Posted by Birdmaestro

I just finished reading (most) of this thread from start to finish. I may have missed it because I did fast forward a couple of times, but I never did find anything that would indicate that AS ever stepped up to remedy this problem for past production. Have they remedied it for current and future production? Have they successfully stonewalled the whole thing?


Poppy

They have remedied the Filiform from under the ends of the clearance lights by installing new/improved light gaskets. And, yes past production complaints are dealt with one at a time and very nicely, I might add, with the installation of Classic Trailer cast bases around the clearance lights. Could Airstream have acted sooner on this clearance light issue? Probably. Could they have even come up with a better fix, like say a light with a base that fit the hull of the trailer? Wish they had.

What's important to say here is that you, the owner, have to be proactive if you have a problem and want help with a solution. JC is not going to send out recall notices for every noted problem. A continual problem like the corrosion caused by the lights will be solved when a solution is found. But in the meantime if you want a warranty fix you have to ask.

My experience when asking Customer Service for either technical advice or warranty service is that they have been outstanding. They have gone out of their way to get me parts overnight, to set up warranty work where I wanted, to provide extra parts at my request in case things broke during repair and needed replacement, etc. They really are the best, we all know the trailer is the best, so a few problems here and there with parts used? We should enjoy the trailer everyone would love to own and keep on the company to improve the problem areas. They will listen if we speak in a unified voice.

[ROBERT CROSS]

Originally Posted by Moflash

Bob
I have seen salt corrosion on aluminum pieces on cars from coastal regions but that is different from filform.

Any painted aluminum bodied automobile is a candidate for filiform if the coating has been compromised. I've seen it all my working life.



"My experience when asking Customer Service for either technical advice or warranty service is that they have been outstanding."


Howard....it's too bad Customer Service doesn't build 'em.

Bob

[Moflash]

Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS

Any painted aluminum bodied automobile is a candidate for filiform if the coating has been compromised. I've seen it all my working life. "My experience when asking Customer Service for either technical advice or warranty service is that they have been outstanding." Howard....it's too bad Customer Service doesn't build 'em. Bob

Bob
After 40 years in the automobile business working with Lamborghini,Ferrari.Porsche,Rolls Royce,Bentley,Mclaten,Mercedes Benz, etc etc
Most if not all of these makes have aluminum panels
I have seen very few instances of filform corrosion.
They may all be candidates but of the thousands of cars I have seen less than a handful with fillform and inspect them personally as part of my profession . Just sayin

[ROBERT CROSS]

Mo,

That's probably because they were assembled with a modicum of care.... .......and don't use pre-coated Alcoa panels.

Bob