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09-16-2013, 04:37 AM
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#1621
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"Cloudsplitter"
2003 25' Classic
Houstatlantavegas
, Malebolgia
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 19,977
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SuperTrouper
I asked an old Harley mechanic one time how to seal the turn signals so water wouldn't get in. He replied: Water will always get in, just be sure it can get out! Not sure there's any way to weep hole the clearance lights. I sealed mine with acryl-r but they are 2008 vintage.
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Yep....
Our clearance light lens' also have a small notch on the bottom of the pointy end.
Bob
__________________
"You don't know where you've been until you leave, enjoy life" RLC
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09-16-2013, 08:26 AM
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#1622
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4 Rivet Member
2008 25' Safari FB SE
Victoria
, BC
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 340
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Silverbee
Evan:
What Dremel wheel did you use on the handle? I need to attack that issue.
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Hi Silverbee,
We are away camping right now :-)
Sorry for the lousy pic but it should help you identify the accessory. It seems to work quite well; not too aggressive but fairly efficient & allows one to feather & control the amount of material you remove.
Off topic: **I discovered that those little cracks in the caulking around the curved front & rear are significant. The water gathering at the base of the windows wasn't condensation after all....
Two afternoons with the razor knife, acryl-R & masking tape & we're nice & dry now. **
Good luck with the filiform.
- evan
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09-16-2013, 11:32 AM
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#1623
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Rivet Master
2008 27' International FB
Petaluma
, California
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 1,343
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Attorneys General
Quote:
Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS
Yep....
Our clearance light lens' also have a small notch on the bottom of the pointy end.
Bob
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clearance light lens'?
clearance lights lens?
clearance light lenses?
attorney generals?
attorneys general?
Either way I think I got it. Next time I get on top for maintenance I'll see what I can do. - Brad
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09-17-2013, 10:04 PM
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#1624
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Rivet Master
2012 30' Flying Cloud
San Antonio
, Texas
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 681
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Dealer installed Classic bases to 2012 30 Flying Cloud clearance lights yesterday. Replaced 5 lights with condensation and one other they pulled the wires from during removal. I had them caulk, with parbond, wires entering the hull and the lens base then replace.with the new castings in place. I did the complete light fixture caulking with Acryl R myself today with the trailer home. A few hours of work, but there are no small bubbles and no areas of missing caulk. They do look nice and doing the caulking myself I' m sure, watertight. Doug, you said your lights retained a small open drain at the base bottom on all side lights and completely sealed the top, concave light bases. I left a quarter inch drain area at the lower edge of all lights. This included the lowest area of the concave top back red lights also. That drain is to the rear, its at the lowest point and would never face oncoming driven rain. Do you think I'm Ok or is there some reason I'm not thinking of that requires the upper lights to be sealed completely?
Another note, I have a complete set of 13 of the new, thicker, 2013 light fix gaskets. They were initially sent for my repair, but I later negotiated the Classic light repair. JC does not want them back. I'll send them to any one who wants to do a "thicker gasket" upgrade. Just drop me a message.
Howard
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09-18-2013, 08:37 AM
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#1625
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Rivet Master
2012 25' Flying Cloud
Battle Lake
, Minnesota
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 7,714
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Howard, good application of "if you want something done right, do it yourself". You did seal the lens completely to the aluminum base, and then the base to the shell leaving a drain in all of aluminum base-to-shell junctions?
Jackson Center sealed those top aft three bases all-around and I had a problem because of it. A bubble in the sealant opened and leaked water inside; I drilled a hole in the lower side of the base to let it out and dry. Probably better to leave them all to drain, as you did.
It's been a year since mine were installed and sealed without any other signs of leakage or corrosion. I think installing the better-fitting Classic style aluminum bases under original lens assemblies is the best fix for those having corrosion at the shell or moisture problems in the late model LED fixtures.
doug
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09-18-2013, 08:55 AM
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#1626
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3 Rivet Member
2013 25' Flying Cloud
Edisto Island
, South Carolina
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 225
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Where/how on the frame did you bolt it? And did you do anything in particular (sanding, etc.) to ensure the anode had good metal to metal contact?
Thanks.
Quote:
Originally Posted by longdog
My 2007 Safari 19 had filiform corrosion on the wheels (nowhere else) when I bought it in 2008 (one year used). Although it does not make complete sense, I bought a 5 pound marine zinc sacrificial anode and bolted it to the frame. My corrosion has not advanced in 5 years.
Stored in an unheated pole barn, on gravel, in humid, drizzly Vancouver, WA.
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09-18-2013, 01:08 PM
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#1627
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Rivet Master
2012 30' Flying Cloud
San Antonio
, Texas
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 681
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dkottum
Howard, good application of "if you want something done right, do it yourself". You did seal the lens completely to the aluminum base, and then the base to the shell leaving a drain in all of aluminum base-to-shell junctions?
Jackson Center sealed those top aft three bases all-around and I had a problem because of it. A bubble in the sealant opened and leaked water inside; I drilled a hole in the lower side of the base to let it out and dry. Probably better to leave them all to drain, as you did.
It's been a year since mine were installed and sealed without any other signs of leakage or corrosion. I think installing the better-fitting Classic style aluminum bases under original lens assemblies is the best fix for those having corrosion at the shell or moisture problems in the late model LED fixtures.
doug
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Yes, Doug, sealed each part as your's were done. Only change was the 1/4 inch weep area at lowest side of casting to skin on the red back upper curved base lights. Thanks for the reply, I think this will work best. Interesting, no filifrom under any lights, so the ones I fixed before were the only problem. There was a post a few days back with condensation in lights on a Classic trailer, don't know what year or lights, but shows nothing is going to be perfect. Like you, I'm just not hot on the new, thicker gaskets as a fix. The plastic base is still the same and that curved base will pull down on the front and back of the gasket tightly when the light is screwed on, but the mid section of the gasket has nothing pressing against it and thus does not necessarily guarantee a tight seal at the mid point. I noticed a post where a new one was leaking and fix was to Acryl R the light lens to it's base. I believe I would seal the gasket to hull skin also.
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09-18-2013, 03:58 PM
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#1628
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Rivet Master
2012 30' Flying Cloud
San Antonio
, Texas
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 681
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Wanted to post results of a new try of painting a sanded corrosion repair and then clear coating over that. Again, I used the Rust-Oleum "Metallic" "Brilliant Metal Finish" bar code: 7271 Silver Metallic (photo of that can on an earlier post). Using poster board paper, I cut an area slightly larger than the repair area. Backed that poster board with a shim to hold it off the surface so as to not spray a hard edge. Sprayed the Rust-Oleum. With 2000 black paper, very lightly wet sanded the painted spot to try to feather in and remove edge and overspray. Re-taped and sprayed with clear coat. The results are not bad, the spot still shows, but is much better than the bare metal with just clear coat covering. I've got another area along an entire upper back panel edge where the rivets are involved an I'm not sure if it's worth the work there to try to make it all look better. But on small single areas this probably is. FYI
Howard
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09-18-2013, 07:41 PM
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#1629
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2 Rivet Member
2007 19' Safari SE
La Center
, Washington
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PharmGeek
Odd - have you had to replace the anode?
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It's a 5 pound solid zinc anode. I think it will last a while.
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09-18-2013, 07:44 PM
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#1630
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2 Rivet Member
2007 19' Safari SE
La Center
, Washington
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Edistobob
Where/how on the frame did you bolt it? And did you do anything in particular (sanding, etc.) to ensure the anode had good metal to metal contact?
Thanks.
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It's bolted to the frame by the bumper with galvanized bolts, nuts and washers. I don't think there is any risk of poor contact.
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09-19-2013, 05:00 AM
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#1631
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"Cloudsplitter"
2003 25' Classic
Houstatlantavegas
, Malebolgia
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 19,977
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Quote:
Originally Posted by longdog
My 2007 Safari 19 had filiform corrosion on the wheels (nowhere else) when I bought it in 2008 (one year used). Although it does not make complete sense, I bought a 5 pound marine zinc sacrificial anode and bolted it to the frame. My corrosion has not advanced in 5 years.
Stored in an unheated pole barn, on gravel, in humid, drizzly Vancouver, WA.
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Question.....
Where in your example are the dissimilar metals?...I agree it doesn't make complete sense.
Bob
__________________
"You don't know where you've been until you leave, enjoy life" RLC
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09-19-2013, 06:30 PM
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#1632
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2 Rivet Member
2007 19' Safari SE
La Center
, Washington
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS
Question.....
Where in your example are the dissimilar metals?...I agree it doesn't make complete sense.
Bob
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The dissimilar metals are the steel frame of the airstream and the aluminum shell of the airstream.
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09-19-2013, 06:41 PM
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#1633
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Rivet Master
2012 30' Flying Cloud
San Antonio
, Texas
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 681
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS
Question.....
Where in your example are the dissimilar metals?...I agree it doesn't make complete sense.
Bob
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So Bob and LongDog, we've got Aluminum, bolted to mild steel (trailer frame) and a sacrificial Zinc bolted to that. The whole unit sets in the air resting on rubber tires. We don't have electrolysis here, we're not submerged in a fluid. How could the zinc do anything? But, no corrosion is no corrosion, why question success?
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09-19-2013, 07:48 PM
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#1634
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"Cloudsplitter"
2003 25' Classic
Houstatlantavegas
, Malebolgia
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 19,977
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"So Bob and LongDog, we've got Aluminum, bolted to mild steel (trailer frame) and a sacrificial Zinc bolted to that."
Ok......take a picture of the sacrificial anode full of filiform corrosion and I'll buy it.
Filiform is not caused by....never mind....like Dad used to say...."I can explain it to you, I can't understand it for you.
I had galvanic all over the belly pan of our 63 only because the PO had riveted it up using mild steel washers and aluminum rivets. No doubt there is plenty of opportunity for it on the AS.
I'm now using Dilithium Crystals duct-taped to the stabilizers.
Bob
__________________
"You don't know where you've been until you leave, enjoy life" RLC
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09-21-2013, 10:20 AM
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#1635
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Master of Universe
2008 25' Safari FB SE
Grand Junction
, Colorado
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 12,694
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS
I'm now using Dilithium Crystals duct-taped to the stabilizers.
Bob
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Good idea. I'm tired of limping along on impulse power.
Sacrificial anodes work well immersed in water such as water heaters and boats.
Gene
__________________
Gene
The Airstream is sold; a 2016 Nash 24M replaced it.
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09-23-2013, 01:41 PM
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#1636
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Rivet Master
2012 30' Flying Cloud
San Antonio
, Texas
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 681
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A week after completion of the Classic base install for the filiform and leaking clearance light repair we sat through our first full blown heavy thunderstorm downpour last night. I did the caulking with Acryl R myself and was certain the job done would insure dryness. At first check this AM all lights looked great, but later a dime sized spot of condensation showed up in one yellow light. On much closer inspection, I found a spot, maybe 1/16 inch where caulk was missing between the lens and original plastic base--even in photo it's difficult to spot. Lesson learned: no matter who did the "fix" work, go over each light again with a strong flashlight to insure no bubbles or gaps in the caulk.
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09-23-2013, 01:51 PM
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#1637
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Rivet Master
1974 Argosy 20
2014 20' Flying Cloud
Kooskia
, Idaho
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 4,591
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I will admit that I have not read all 117 pages of posts on this thread, but has anyone used the Dupont "Pro-Fusion color Scratch Repair Stick" to cover the cut edges of the aluminum where the corrosion seems to start.
They are available in packs of 3 for about $12 at Costco, and are listed as a clear coat scratch repair system. I was wondering if they might be a good way to seal the visible cut edges on my new 2014 FC 20. The ones I have in mind are around the panel which has the rear window in it. It looks to be cut out of a sheet of metal and just riveted in place on the surface of the rear segments. The cut edges are exposed.
If not, what does the group recommend for those edges?
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09-24-2013, 10:45 AM
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#1638
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Rivet Master
2017 25' International
Currently Looking...
Currently Looking...
Los Osos
, California
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 916
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I have new cans of both Boeshield T-9 and Corrosion X. Which is the best to spray in the exterior aluminum panel seams?
__________________
2017 Airstream International Serenity 25FB
2016 RAM 2500 Crew Cab Cummins 6.7 Diesel
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09-24-2013, 12:04 PM
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#1639
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Rivet Master
2012 25' Flying Cloud
Battle Lake
, Minnesota
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 7,714
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Quote:
Originally Posted by interstateflyer
I have new cans of both Boeshield T-9 and Corrosion X. Which is the best to spray in the exterior aluminum panel seams?
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I use CorrosionX on the shell and Boeshield for the underbody steel. Boesheld T9 leaves a protective paraffin wax protective coating, but when it dries looks awful and is real tough to clean off the shell surfaces.
__________________
Doug and Cheryl
2012 FC RB, Michelin 16, ProPride 1400
2016 Ram 1500 Laramie Crew Cab 4X4 Ecodiesel 3.92 axles
The Truth is More Important Than the Facts
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09-24-2013, 12:10 PM
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#1640
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Rivet Master
2012 25' Flying Cloud
Battle Lake
, Minnesota
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 7,714
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Howard L.
A week after completion of the Classic base install for the filiform and leaking clearance light repair we sat through our first full blown heavy thunderstorm downpour last night. I did the caulking with Acryl R myself and was certain the job done would insure dryness. At first check this AM all lights looked great, but later a dime sized spot of condensation showed up in one yellow light. On much closer inspection, I found a spot, maybe 1/16 inch where caulk was missing between the lens and original plastic base--even in photo it's difficult to spot. Lesson learned: no matter who did the "fix" work, go over each light again with a strong flashlight to insure no bubbles or gaps in the caulk.
Attachment 196265
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Good advice Howard. Airstream Service Center installed my new Classic fixtures and a bubble opened about a 1/8" spot in the lens-to-base sealant. This was on the center upper amber light; they sealed those three all-around to allow drainage. That fixture was about half full of water when I noticed it.
__________________
Doug and Cheryl
2012 FC RB, Michelin 16, ProPride 1400
2016 Ram 1500 Laramie Crew Cab 4X4 Ecodiesel 3.92 axles
The Truth is More Important Than the Facts
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