Corrosion problems with new Airstreams

[silverwheels]

It would take me hours on end to attend to all the spots on my rig and on all 4 of the wheels. Has anyone pursued a class action law suit? I really feel Airstream should be doing this work for me.

[interstateflyer]

From NOAA:In 2010, 123.3 million people, or 39 percent of the nation's population lived in counties directly on the shoreline. This population is expected to increase by 8% from 2010 to 2020.

This is a huge chunk of Airstream's potential market. Their product needs to hold up under conditions found near the coasts.

Had I known about the work I have ahead of me because I live within 5 miles of the Pacific, might have gone with plastic.

[Gene]

Keep after them Al 13. You can't count on some dealers to be your advocate. The dealer where we bought ours was useless and we ended up taking ours to Ohio (1,400 miles) to get warranty work done right. The bad dealer is still a dealer and Airstream has had complaints about that dealer for many years.

There is a dealer in Eurgene, Oregon with a good reputation. It is fart, but at least it isn't 1,400 miles.

Gene

[Sky]

Awwww, Gene farted

[SuperTrouper]

I wondered what that was... I blamed the dog. ;-)

[ROBERT CROSS]

[Gene]

It was the dog—he always does that after he eats my homework.

Gene

[SilverGate]

Originally Posted by Gene

It was the dog—he always does that after he eats my homework.

Gene

Thanks, Gene, for clearing the air... now, back to the caustic issues at hand, or on our beloved Airstream aluminum under the "modern" clear coat finishes... filiform corrosion...

It's a ...

Never ending story!

[AL13]

Originally Posted by Gene

There is a dealer in Eurgene, Oregon with a good reputation.

Checking into my options, I did call the mentioned dealer. Leaking marker lights with corrosion is a warranty item and the lights get the bezel from the Classic. Knowing that, I left a message with customer service at JC. I will now have the prescribed repair.
Part of the problem was that my concern was the moisture where it shouldn't be. The rep told me they are sealed units and moisture should not cause any problems. Maybe I have too many years dealing with lighting on vehicles and motorcycles and my take is that over time, moisture is not a good thing with electrics. Thanks to the forum, I know that the real problem with the marker lights is the corrosion issue and knowing that, discovered that I have that problem also, which is a concern for Airstream. Their concern is apparent in the redesign of the light and the fix provided when it is brought in for repair under warranty. That doesn't do much to solve the problem if you are out of warranty.
Seeing class action lawsuit mentioned makes me wonder. Over many years I have received many notices of class action lawsuits. Sometimes I even get a check that usually is for less than $10. My take is the only winners in these lawsuits are the attorneys who rake in millions in legal fees while the actual victims get pennies. Just my two cents.

For the future it looks like part of the price for all the enjoyment the Flying Cloud will bring is to be on constant surveillance for the corrosion and deal with it as I can. My first investment will be in the Glare products and see what that does for protection of the finish. It's not like my motorcycle doesn't take constant care and feeding. Another thing that crosses my mind is that I doubt Airstream makes the only recreational trailer that has this problem. The aluminum finish just makes it obvious when it appears. Why do I think that the other manufacturers have the same issues but it goes unseen under the paint and gaudy graphics? Aluminum doesn't act different when Airstream buys it. So the choice is simple to me, I'd rather have the classic look of the Airstream than the option of pulling around a rolling billboard of scenic scenes and logos.

[Howard L.]

Originally Posted by SilverGate

Thanks, Gene, for clearing the air... now, back to the caustic issues at hand, or on our beloved Airstream aluminum under the "modern" clear coat finishes... filiform corrosion...

It's a ...

(The “bad hair day” lesion is gone, only its ghost is seen, along with a few diagonal scratches from a Dremel tool, which I quickly stopped using)

Speaking of the "ghost" in Bills Filiform corrosion article referenced here, I recontacted Alcoa yesterday. Talked to the engineer I had been directed to a month ago. He promised, this time, he would have an engineer from the Roll Division who deals with the panels and their coating get back to me. So maybe, possibly, hopefully and with some luck we might hear if there is a way to repair small areas that must be sanded then re-clear coated in a way that better matches Alcoa's skin look and color. Holding my breath--not.

[interstateflyer]

I recently applied two coats of Walbernizer on the 2013 International 19 that we purchased at the end of February.

I noticed before I started that the side panels seemed to have a very apparent layer of clear coat. They were very shiny and smooth to the touch. In contrast, the front and rear top/top side caps reflected much less light and were coarse to the touch. They also appear to have a more open "grain".

I'm wondering if this condition will leave the caps more vulnerable to corrosion and if so what can be done to fortify these areas?

[dkottum]

Originally Posted by interstateflyer

I recently applied two coats of Walbernizer on the 2013 International 19 that we purchased at the end of February.

I noticed before I started that the side panels seemed to have a very apparent layer of clear coat. They were very shiny and smooth to the touch. In contrast, the front and rear top/top side caps reflected much less light and were coarse to the touch. They also appear to have a more open "grain".

I'm wondering if this condition will leave the caps more vulnerable to corrosion and if so what can be done to fortify these areas?

The part of the end caps, as well as the other panels, that are vulnerable is the cut panel edges. There is no clear coat on those edges, and the end caps have a rougher cut edge.

Walbernize probably will do little to protect those panel edges, add some CorrosionX to them as well as the rivets (because of the drilled holes behind them) and the fittings (light fixtures, door hardware, etc). Wash and retreat right after camping at the beach. Not a lot of work.

Walbernize is a trusted, old polish but next time you may look into a more modern and durable sealant. You still need the corrosion treatment product.

doug

[interstateflyer]

Originally Posted by dkottum

The part of the end caps, as well as the other panels, that are vulnerable is the cut panel edges. There is no clear coat on those edges, and the end caps have a rougher cut edge.

Walbernize probably will do little to protect those panel edges, add some CorrosionX to them as well as the rivets (because of the drilled holes behind them) and the fittings (light fixtures, door hardware, etc). Wash and retreat right after camping at the beach. Not a lot of work.

Walbernize is a trusted, old polish but next time you may look into a more modern and durable sealant. You still need the corrosion treatment product.

doug

Doug. Do you have suggestions for a Walbernize replacement?

Also I've got a can of BioShield T6. Is that as effective as CorrosionX?

[ROBERT CROSS]

Originally Posted by interstateflyer

I recently applied two coats of Walbernizer on the 2013 International 19 that we purchased at the end of February.

I noticed before I started that the side panels seemed to have a very apparent layer of clear coat. They were very shiny and smooth to the touch. In contrast, the front and rear top/top side caps reflected much less light and were coarse to the touch. They also appear to have a more open "grain".

I'm wondering if this condition will leave the caps more vulnerable to corrosion and if so what can be done to fortify these areas?

The difference in appearance/touch is because the end caps are press formed causing a slightly duller surface.
I have found that the caps do appear to be more prone to random break-outs of filiform. Both ends of our Classic have areas of filiform nowhere near a cut edge.



Bob

[dkottum]

I like the Glare product Airstream sells in their factory store and so do they. It won't bond if there is another polish on there, so wait for a few months or remove it. There are others I'm sure.

Boeshield T9 and CorrosionX are both effective, but Boeshield leaves a nasty residue of paraffin wax on the shell. I like CorrosionX (spray, dab, or wipe on and wipe off excess) on the shell and Boeshield T9 (spray it on liberally) for the underbody steel parts. 303 Aerospace UV protection is good for the seals and plastic parts, and protects and keeps the window seals from sticking to the glass.

Keep plenty of this stuff on hand and use it regularly, sure beats picking away at corrosion. It may not entirely prevent it but it's good stuff, and can stop small areas of filiform corrosion from spreading.

doug

[dkottum]

Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS

The difference in appearance/touch is because the end caps are press formed causing a slightly duller surface.
I have found that the caps do appear to be more prone to random break-outs of filiform. Both ends of our Classic have areas of filiform nowhere near a cut edge.

Bob

Bob, because the end panels are stretched to form the clear coat it may be thinner or broken? Also nicks and scratches are a starting point and need repair with clear acrylic touch-up, in addition to sealer polish. Easy enough to spray some CorrosionX on those panels and wipe off as well.

doug

[ROBERT CROSS]

Doug,

No apparent nicks or scratches, those appeared back in 09. About dozen or so on both ends. Nothing more since.
I think, as you say, it's uneven clearcoat caused by the forming process.

"Cloudsplitter" is 10yrs old now, luckily not many new outbreaks, just a matter of keeping a close watch on the existing areas.

Still a shame for the new owners though.

Bob

[dkottum]

Bob, the fact you have little filiform corrosion since 09 is a lesson to us all on the good maintenance you do. After two years (12 months on the road) we have none on the trailer, and it hasn't been hard to keep it up.

Yes it is a shame for the new owners. I wish we were given some maintenance schedules and instructions, but of course standards don't apply to all owners and locations. This has been a good thread on the subject, much info here.

doug

[PharmGeek]

so corrosion X is a good idea to apply to all seams and areas where clearcoat may have been compromised? But also perhaps on the whole of the end caps? does this stuff come off easy after application? how do you clean off corrosion X spray?

Also, because we keep bringing it back up....is it safe to say that I should bug the dealer to have the classic bases (is that the proper term?) for the light fixtures...some seem conserned that even their fix is not idea....wonder if they could do this form me and at what cost?

Also, what of from day one treating the seams and areas highly susceptable with nyalac clear coat as has been recommended by some in this thread?

If I recall earlier, some disagreed with this....?

Also, when I am at the beach, seems like in theory, a good idea would be to apply some form of corrosion resistant treatment to prone areas and simply leave it on during your stay and clean it off when through? Oh but that would look like crap I suppose? I know, that is a crazy thought perhaps? I may also put plastic on my new couch at home for the life of it to keep in in good condition

[ROBERT CROSS]

I don't believe that pre-clearcoating all the seams,(rivets), would be time well spent. Not all seams and cut edges will be effected. I think you would be better served by waxing and or sealing the entire trailer.

Doug has more experience with the X and Beo products, but my take....
If you treated and left a significant amount on for an extended period, it would more likely make it much more difficult to remove when needed, with little or benefit over the recommended application

Bob