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Old 06-14-2013, 09:03 AM   #1359
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Originally Posted by ginsun88 View Post
Bob, I'm afraid so...

I'd appreciate a candid reply.

Grace
Grace,

Well the first thing to realize....filiform will in no way effect performance or structural integrity, it's strictly a cosmetic problem.

BUT...the look of an Airstream is part of the attraction for a lot of us.
How important is that to you?

IMHO....the trailer looks bad, very bad. There is a lot of work needed to slow the spread and in no way will it ever look pristine again.

If I were you, and if you can live with the look, I would explain to the seller the extent of the work needed and offer $3k less than asking price.

If not.

Best option....and I know it's hard, resist the impulse and continue looking, not all are effected to that extent, the good ones are out there, it just may take some time.

Bob
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Old 06-14-2013, 06:16 PM   #1360
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Remember the corrosion is only cosmetic, so if it bothers you a lot then skip on Airstreams. If you can live with it then buy the airstream you want or need and then deal with the corrosion however you seem fit to do. Do not buy a floor pan you do not like just because it has less corrosion. You have to camp in this thing, and from inside you cannot see the corrosion. Do not worry about what others think, do what you want to do. Jim
Thanks Jim, points taken.

I think I can live with some corrosion, but not excessive amounts.

The floor plan is a huge consideration and I would rather wait to buy the right trailer than to upgrade later.

My TV is a 2002 Toyota Sequoia, so I'm looking at 23Ds but have been told that I can tow a 25' with the right hitch.
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Old 06-14-2013, 06:19 PM   #1361
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Look for one in Arizona, I have seen late model Airstreams there with none of this.

Then; San Diego coastal communities have salt in the air. The aluminum screens on our former house there knew it. You will have to clean and use corrosion preventive treatments regularly, let it go for a couple of years and a new trailer will look like this one.

There is good info in this forum on corrosion prevention and repair but it's usually buried with grumbling.

doug k
Thanks for the tips Doug, have been advised by others to look in AZ.

San Diego elements will be a challenge as that's the reason that we're buying in the first place - to enjoy the miles and miles of beaches!

DH won't let me grumble much especially since this is my idea!
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Old 06-14-2013, 06:23 PM   #1362
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Grace,

Best option....and I know it's hard, resist the impulse and continue looking, not all are effected to that extent, the good ones are out there, it just may take some time.

Bob

Bob, I had a sinking suspicion that this was what you'd advise. I did pass on this trailer, but tossed and turned thinking about it!

So I'll continue looking and hope to find something before summer gets away!

This thread got me my first rivet!
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Old 06-19-2013, 07:00 PM   #1363
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have a little corrosion around a maker light , it seem to me that I should remove the light fixture and clean up and treat and put back on. My question is , am I right.?
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Old 06-19-2013, 07:23 PM   #1364
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ginsun...if it were me, I hate to say it, but I'd walk away from that unit. The corrosion will only get worse, as it's well on its course already ... and I could never be happy with it. We live in Tucson and have an 06 Bambi. Our climate is very very dry, which is to our advantage, and luckily we have virtually no filiform, save for a few very very small bits. I inspect as I wash/clean and if I see anything that looks like it could be remotely related to filiform I zap it with CorrosionX and Boeshield T-9. Both products displace moisture and fill the voids where corrosion spreads. I've managed to stop the very small bit of corrosion I've found, and luckily they are not in obvious places. I hate that stuff.
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Old 06-19-2013, 07:24 PM   #1365
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Same thing on my 2012. Very, very small spot....and I think we all know that what happens is the edge of the light breaks through the clearcoat on the panel...and the filiform begins its nasty journey. Be advised, though, that removing these lights is NOT easy. I had to tap into 12V on the middle clearance light on the rear of the trailer to get power for a rear view camera. The clearance lights have both a clip that holds the lens to the bezel AND they use some of the "impossible to remove" 3M heavy duty two sided tape. It is possible to get the lens off without breaking it, but you have to be VERY, VERY careful as you pry the lens off. Once the lens is off, you can unscrew with fixture and then treat the edge of the aluminum, do a bit of light sanding and then re clear coat.
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Old 06-19-2013, 07:43 PM   #1366
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My trailer has never been near the ocean or salt and is hand waxed 2- 3 times a year including the roof with the best polymer wax available.It is washed during and after use top and under carriage .I treat belt line and all trim and wheels with Corrosion preventatives.,all of which are mentioned on this sight.
The corrosion slowly formed on the belt line seam,taillights,,clearance lights wheel trim and around lug nuts on wheels etc.To me it appears to be an electrical based corrosion as everywhere two pieces of metal meets it starts
.Being borderline o.c.d like me slows the process but does not stop this corrosion .
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Old 06-19-2013, 07:54 PM   #1367
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I might also add that when not in use my trailer is stored indoors.i also have covered the concrete floor that it sits on with a thick gauge plastic to keep the vapors and moisture that rises out of concrete at bay.O.C.D ?
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Old 07-09-2013, 11:36 AM   #1368
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Filifrom repair

Robert Cross, here is a small area I've repaired by sanding the filiform away and spot spraying with Nyalic (disregard the vertical streaks as that is applicator error and will be redone). I've used Nyalic on old fishing outriggers that were badly corroded and the stuff works great and lasts years in a salt water environment (no recurrence of corrosion in the pitted areas after 4 years). The Nyalic spray blends right in with the Alcoa clear-coat and shows no overspray, so the fix is a very good one. As you can see from the photos, the repaired aluminum shows up much darker, depending on how the light hits it. Do you think a coat of aluminum silver paint, prior to the Nyalic, would help the areas blend in better, or will that also show a different reflection and color.

I have quite a few areas around running lights, rivets and skin edges to repair. The small ones will be done with a dremel and then touched up with artist brush and liquid Nyalic. The larger areas will be sanded and sprayed as this one is. The product comes in spary cans and quart cans. You have been on this for so long, please pass along your thoughts.
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Old 07-09-2013, 02:39 PM   #1369
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I have cleaned mine up some , but have an appointment at the Jackson Center on fri. Want to see how they handle it.
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Old 07-09-2013, 02:58 PM   #1370
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Howard L. View Post
Robert Cross, here is a small area I've repaired by sanding the filiform away and spot spraying with Nyalic (disregard the vertical streaks as that is applicator error and will be redone). I've used Nyalic on old fishing outriggers that were badly corroded and the stuff works great and lasts years in a salt water environment (no recurrence of corrosion in the pitted areas after 4 years). The Nyalic spray blends right in with the Alcoa clear-coat and shows no overspray, so the fix is a very good one. As you can see from the photos, the repaired aluminum shows up much darker, depending on how the light hits it. Do you think a coat of aluminum silver paint, prior to the Nyalic, would help the areas blend in better, or will that also show a different reflection and color.

I have quite a few areas around running lights, rivets and skin edges to repair. The small ones will be done with a dremel and then touched up with artist brush and liquid Nyalic. The larger areas will be sanded and sprayed as this one is. The product comes in spary cans and quart cans. You have been on this for so long, please pass along your thoughts.
This is the best "match" I've found. This was a spot right around the entrance door handle. Impossible to ignore.

Before....




Cleaned filiform from surface, softened with WD40.
Lightly feathered with 600grit wet paper. Cleaned with mineral spirits. Painted with Thomas' Stainless Paint and clear.

After....



About to test a new clear....KBS Diamond Finish Clear Coat.

Will up-date...

Bob
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Old 07-09-2013, 05:28 PM   #1371
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About to test a new clear....KBS Diamond Finish Clear Coat.

Will up-date...

Bob


Thanks, I'll try an out of the way place with the AL paint followed by Nyalic clear coat to see it I can get a better skin match. I will keep updates coming as I work the rest of the small and larger places this weekend. The Nyalic itself matches the Alcoa clear coat perfectly with no overspray showing when shot from a spray can. Plan on using a small artist brush to treat all exposed outer sheeting edges, filiform showing or not. As Gene said if Airstream would treat the edges again after construction, the major source of the skin corrosion would be almost eliminated.

NyalicŪ

If you want to check it out--spray cans or liquid quart cans. They said they completely stripped and sprayed the product on two older Airstreams in Australia with great lasting success. I'll try to get pictures if I can. Also said they approached Airstream with the product, but Airstream happy with how they are finishing and repairing now. Would be nice if we were happy too.
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Old 07-09-2013, 10:21 PM   #1372
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About to test a new clear....KBS Diamond Finish Clear Coat.

Will up-date...

Bob

Thanks, I'll try an out of the way place with the AL paint followed by Nyalic clear coat to see it I can get a better skin match. I will keep updates coming as I work the rest of the small and larger places this weekend. The Nyalic itself matches the Alcoa clear coat perfectly with no overspray showing when shot from a spray can. Plan on using a small artist brush to treat all exposed outer sheeting edges, filiform showing or not. As Gene said if Airstream would treat the edges again after construction, the major source of the skin corrosion would be almost eliminated.

NyalicŪ

If you want to check it out--spray cans or liquid quart cans. They said they completely stripped and sprayed the product on two older Airstreams in Australia with great lasting success. I'll try to get pictures if I can. Also said they approached Airstream with the product, but Airstream happy with how they are finishing and repairing now. Would be nice if we were happy too.
Well, the things used by NASA will dwindle thanks to recent financial axe to pay for something important.
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