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Old 05-02-2014, 09:50 PM   #1921
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Howard L stores in the same facility as I do. He has, most graciously, shown me his touch ups, and I have to say that they look great. The pictures are good, but seeing it in person is impressive.
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Old 05-03-2014, 07:39 AM   #1922
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Howards tips and advice are textbook quality, I'm thinking definitive. Be great if selected posts could be archived and made readily viewable in a persistent area of the forum. So many forums and posts the gems get buried over time.
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Old 05-03-2014, 01:10 PM   #1923
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Howards tips and advice are textbook quality, I'm thinking definitive. Be great if selected posts could be archived and made readily viewable in a persistent area of the forum. So many forums and posts the gems get buried over time.
Thanks, but in reality, I scanned this thread and found the work done by those who have been dealing with this much longer than I, and from their knowledge just tried to take the repair work a bit farther. I would also love to have an area on the forum where successful repair work could be consolidated and readily available for view. Any body know how, lets do it, at least with the corrosion issue. We start with posts like those of Robert Cross'--his repairs, internet links to the types of corrosion (I bet he's posted those here a half dozen times). Gene's posts, and dkottum with his well thought out maintenance program go next.
Just an example, but a year or so back there was a post where tail light castings that were corroded badly had been removed, sanded down, repainted with a matching paint and reinstalled, they looked great--photos of the work lead the way. Out of nearly 2000 posts where is that info now?
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Old 05-03-2014, 03:47 PM   #1924
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Howard, thanks for giving Bob Cross credit. Just because he's not posting on the Forum anymore (he's out there reading, not posting), his contributions should not be forgotten.

If you are referring to me, thanks, but I never thought I had that much to say, just willing fingers to type endlessly.

As our Safari ages, I find it less important to worry about dings and discoloration caused by corrosion. I've been following Bob Sunrus' lead and we haven't waxed the trailer in 2 or 3 years. Still looks fine as the new waxes last and last. We're remodeling another house, so we are busy enough. But there are some very good solutions and if I were more motivated, I'd follow them. Fortunately we live in the high desert and have less corrosion here. Our new house is even more in the desert, so dry is good for aluminum skin, though not for my skin.

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Old 05-06-2014, 03:47 PM   #1925
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""Chuck, it really doesn't matter that they are dragging the panel edges across the floor. The Alcoa pre coated panel edges are already opened by the cutting process that sized them to fit.""


""Doug, even though Airstream forms and cuts to size the Alcoa per-coated panels, I was under the impression that all edges were sealed prior to delivery to the assembly line. ""


I talked to customer service today. Doug was correct. Airstream takes the flat baked on clear coated panels from Alcoa then cuts and molds them to size for construction of the outer shell. They do not re-clear coat the cut edges. To me, this makes it even more important to clear coat the exposed edges on a new trailer as soon as you get it home.
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Old 05-07-2014, 10:45 AM   #1926
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I need some of that clear coat pen stuff for small easy applications - where do you get that stuff
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Old 05-07-2014, 01:40 PM   #1927
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costco had them but that kind of stuff comes and goes.
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Old 05-07-2014, 03:17 PM   #1928
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For as long as this thread has been going on and on other threads too, it has been stated that Airstream does not coat the cut edges of the panels and that panels (uncut and coated also) are dragged across the floor at the factory.

Airstream people follow some of these threads and must understand that bad practices increase the possibility of corrosion. But management for years has squeezed every penny out of the production procress and doesn't care. After all, they sell everything they make.

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Old 05-07-2014, 03:36 PM   #1929
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PharmGeek View Post
I need some of that clear coat pen stuff for small easy applications - where do you get that stuff
Should be able to get them at automotive places such as NAPA, seems to me I've even seen them at Wally World.

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Old 05-09-2014, 07:54 AM   #1930
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Hi there. For those pens, when all else fails you can explore The Amazon:
Dupli-Color NGSF125 Clear Exact-Match Touch-up Top Coat - 0.5 oz.
http://amzn.com/B0049D46QS
Dupli-Color SFSS100 Clear Scratch Seal Pen - 0.4 oz.
http://amzn.com/B0056GUSNM
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Old 05-09-2014, 04:49 PM   #1931
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The "official" touch-up pen of Airstream.
https://store.airstream.com/product_...roducts_id=428
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Old 05-09-2014, 08:59 PM   #1932
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Seems pretty odd that they would sell such a thing, since everyone knows there's no corrosion problem with Airstreams. <ducking>
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Old 05-09-2014, 09:53 PM   #1933
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Quote:
Originally Posted by interstateflyer View Post
The "official" touch-up pen of Airstream.
https://store.airstream.com/product_...roducts_id=428
Quote:
Originally Posted by Silvery Moon View Post
Seems pretty odd that they would sell such a thing, since everyone knows there's no corrosion problem with Airstreams. <ducking>

Hi, this is part of your maintenance responsibility that you weren't informed about until you tried to get warranty coverage for the concern.
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Old 05-11-2014, 09:40 AM   #1934
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Dont use Costco touch up pens

Quote:
Originally Posted by richinny View Post
costco had them but that kind of stuff comes and goes.
Don't use the Costco touch up pens. They leave a slight yellow tint.
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Old 05-11-2014, 11:02 AM   #1935
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Is there a consensus on whether to caulk around new marker lights or not?

I've been following this thread for a couple of years, and I have re skimmed the last year of posts looking for my answer. If I missed the info I apologize. I know there has been a lot of discussion about changing to the classic light bases. What if you don't have the classic bases? There were no gaskets between the light bases and body on our 2011, so I used par bond which was easy. On our 2014 we have the gaskets (they look like foam not rubber), so I'm not sure parbond would work. Should I just remove the lights and caulk the wire penetration in the body? It sure looks like the foam gasket wouldn't stop much water.
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Old 05-11-2014, 02:25 PM   #1936
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Does anyone happen to know how much area a 12 oz. bottle Glare Professional Polish will cover for maximum protection? The guys at Airstream didn't know. I have a 19'.
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Old 05-11-2014, 04:21 PM   #1937
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I am guessing the label might tell how much area to cover aand if you should use sparingly I would guess you would have enough for more than one application. I use liquid glass and have plenty left over after two applications to our 30'. I believe after the first time you'll be able to judge by what's left. That bottle should be more than enough for the first time.

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Old 05-11-2014, 06:29 PM   #1938
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It's plenty. I waxed my Ford Expedition and maybe used an eighth of the bottle.

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Old 05-12-2014, 06:03 PM   #1939
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Is there a consensus on whether to caulk around new marker lights or not?

I've been following this thread for a couple of years, and I have re skimmed the last year of posts looking for my answer. If I missed the info I apologize. I know there has been a lot of discussion about changing to the classic light bases. What if you don't have the classic bases? There were no gaskets between the light bases and body on our 2011, so I used par bond which was easy. On our 2014 we have the gaskets (they look like foam not rubber), so I'm not sure parbond would work. Should I just remove the lights and caulk the wire penetration in the body? It sure looks like the foam gasket wouldn't stop much water.
This is your gasket on the 2014. The new gaskets are really the original gaskets for the LED lights plus A larger thin base has been glued to the bottom of the original. This keeps the front and rear edge of the plastic chrome base from digging into the clearcoat.
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It is foam, probably closed cell so it is waterproof. That said, it is in no way going to keep water from the back of your LED clearance lights as a complete caulking would. Caulking the wire penetration in the back of the lights might do the trick if your caulk job is perfect. If you thought you could use the ParBond or Acryl R and seal the light to plastic base and also, plastic base to the hull skin (right over the new gasket) I would do it. AS's written procedure when adding the Classic aluminum bases is to seal all 3 pieces. To my knowledge, they have no caulking instructions for the new gaskets with the LED lights. I haven't seen, so I don't know how much rubber of the new gaskets, like yours, show. So don't know how much caulk would be required to seal over those gaskets. Would it look OK or would it be a mess? You are going to have to answer that one. I would at least use Acryl R or ParBond and seal the lens to the plastic chrome base of every light.

Have you considered buying the Classic cast bases and putting them under all your lights? They look great, if caulked correctly, they stop light fixture moisture and corrosion. Maybe go there if these new larger gaskets fail you.

Good luck
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Old 05-12-2014, 06:43 PM   #1940
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Thanks for the reply. I really think it would be a mess to caulk over the foam gaskets. Hard to imagine those gaskets will stop water. I'm more concerned about water getting into the AS via the wiring than I am moisture in the light. I guess I will add the classic bases to my wish list along with many other things (centramatics, TPMS, SS shower, SS stove vent). It looks like the bases can be purchased online for approx. $25 each (saw them today at Silver Trailer supply). There goes another $300.

Do you know if I will destroy the marker lights getting them off the trailer? I thought I read that on a thread today.
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