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Old 03-17-2013, 09:09 PM   #1345
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Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS View Post
Joe,

....no I'm sorry needed!!!!

Post's 489,493.

I didn't remove the hinge or the frame. Mask with several layers of blue painters tape. Scrape and sand CAREFULLY!!.

I probably went overboard with the primer on the hinges but they have held up well.

Stainless paint was used on the obvious filiform repairs. Thomas stainless paint.

On other areas I cleaned well, settling on dental scaling tools,(Amazon), smoothed carefully and sealed with automotive brush-on clear. A clear nail polish also works well.
Sealing is most important to keep the filiform from spreading.

Bob

Bob, thank you very much. It is truly a gift to learn from those that go before. Thanks for sharing, you are good to do so. I will now read those posts.

Best, Joe
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Old 04-26-2013, 08:16 AM   #1346
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Bob,

I'm about to start the slow process of addressing the many small filiform areas I have + my hinges.

I'm wondering, why did you use paint on the filiform areas on the panels instead of just using the Griot's to seal like you did on the door panel? Was it for cosmetic reasons or functional?

Thanks for all of the info you provided. I feel like I can handle this.

Lynn
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Old 04-26-2013, 08:43 AM   #1347
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Lynn,

The panel filiform around the entry door handle, was a relatively small area, but very noticeable. The stainless paint was used in an attempt to make them as invisible as possible. Once I was satisfied that it was as good as was going to get I did seal with the Griot's sealer. Same goes for the painted door hinges and polished battery door frames.

POI...I do seal the entire trailer once a year, and inspect and treat any new filiform. Once you establish a good maint routine the new outbreaks tend to diminish.

On the smaller filiform spots I just cleaned well with a dental scaling tool, smoothed carefully with 1500-2000 wet sandpaper, cleaned with mineral spirits and coated with brush-on clear. Dupli-Color auto clear or hi-end nail polish, and sealed with PS.

Hope this helps...

Bob
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Old 04-26-2013, 10:06 AM   #1348
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It does help, Bob, thanks.

I actually started using the Griot's based on your other posts, so I'm already on my way.

Now all I have to do is the hard work!

Thanks again for all of the information you've shared on this.

Lynn
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Old 06-12-2013, 06:46 PM   #1349
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Unhappy Discouraged buyer

This is one of my first few posts, but have found the forums (esp this thread) to be helpful.

I have been actively searching for a used late model trailer, but am worried about corrosion.

When I inquired recently if a trailer had leaks, corrosion or damage I was asked, "What do you mean by corrosion?"

When I requested additional exterior photos, it turned out many parts of the trailer had filiform corrosion.

As a newbie, I would have trouble accurately estimating repair costs and so I passed on this one.

Regards,
Grace
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Old 06-12-2013, 06:52 PM   #1350
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Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS View Post
Lynn,

The panel filiform around the entry door handle, was a relatively small area, but very noticeable. The stainless paint was used in an attempt to make them as invisible as possible. Once I was satisfied that it was as good as was going to get I did seal with the Griot's sealer. Same goes for the painted door hinges and polished battery door frames.

POI...I do seal the entire trailer once a year, and inspect and treat any new filiform. Once you establish a good maint routine the new outbreaks tend to diminish.

On the smaller filiform spots I just cleaned well with a dental scaling tool, smoothed carefully with 1500-2000 wet sandpaper, cleaned with mineral spirits and coated with brush-on clear. Dupli-Color auto clear or hi-end nail polish, and sealed with PS.

Hope this helps...

Bob
Bob,
How much Paint Sealer do you think I would need to do a 28. Is one 16 oz bottle enough?

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Old 06-13-2013, 05:24 AM   #1351
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Bob,
How much Paint Sealer do you think I would need to do a 28. Is one 16 oz bottle enough?

The 16oz Griot's Paint Sealer is enough to seal our 25' Classic at least 3 times.
I use a Proctor-Cable Orbital for application and removal. Four nickel sized spots on a 6" foam pad is enough to do a 5'x5' panel. Use sparingly.

I've found that microfiber is the best for wax removal and washing. Always follow the grain,(horizontal motion), when working the clearcoat.

Good Luck!

Bob
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Old 06-13-2013, 08:15 AM   #1352
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Filiform Disappointment

Grace,
Let me assure you that you are not alone in your disappointment about the Filiform Corrosion. It can be nasty and can spread like a cancer. This thread contains thousands of posts about others facing the same problem. The sandings and treatments are well documented and do work to some extent. My wife and I bought a brand new 23' International CCD AS in 2008 only to see it form filiform corrosion at the beltline, door handle, rear lights and under marker lights. We paid a very high price for what we thought was a top quality trailer only to have the factory warranty folks tell me they do not warranty for corrosion. They said that if I brought the trailer back to the factory, they would "look at it". I was so angry at Thor that I considered filing a lawsuit.

I have tried most of the methods mentioned in this thread and have had mixed success. You can try to seal the entire trailer, every panel cut and every rivet but you are only treating the symptoms. You may slow or stop corrosion in one area only to see it crop up somewhere else. Members of the forum pointed out how fruitless this would be so I resolved myself to treat the best I could and live with the problem.

I have now decided to go back to the factory and have them treat the corrosion and add a beltline strip put over the beltline rivets to hide the worst of the corrosion. This is supposed to cost me about $1000. This at least might cosmetically hide the problem for a while. All new AS come with this strip. AS apparently has not been able to solve the problem so they are covering it up.

I realize that this not does not solve your problem but at least you know it is not unique to you. One thing that did help me was to get my trailer out of storage with a gravel floor and into a storage unit with a sealed concrete floor. This lowered the humidity inside my storage unit and has greatly slowed the corrosion process.

Best wishes and I hope you can find a solution to the filiform corrosion that works for you.
Greg

Quote:
Originally Posted by ginsun88 View Post
This is one of my first few posts, but have found the forums (esp this thread) to be helpful.

I have been actively searching for a used late model trailer, but am worried about corrosion.

When I inquired recently if a trailer had leaks, corrosion or damage I was asked, "What do you mean by corrosion?"

When I requested additional exterior photos, it turned out many parts of the trailer had filiform corrosion.

As a newbie, I would have trouble accurately estimating repair costs and so I passed on this one.

Regards,
Grace
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Old 06-13-2013, 11:32 AM   #1353
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Add me to the list of mortified owners. When we put or AS into covered storage last fall everything was perfect. Checked on it bi-weekly through the winter and everything on the exterior seemed good. Brought it home and after careful inspection found corrosion around marker lights. Luckily, having read on this site about this problem, contacted JC and they are sending new marker light kit to my dealer and repairs will be made free of charge.
I inspected closer and noticed corrosion on wheel well trim and door and window trim. With 000 steel wool, lots of elbow grease and mother's alum polish, shined wheel well trim to a chrome finish. I hesitate to tackle the window and door trim pieces because of the area to be covered and the amount of rivets. Any ideas?
I also have filiform in 4 places on the lower street side and will treat these per Bob's process. Might throw on a little corrosion x also along rivets lines also.
It is to bad we can't keep these TT's looking the way we want them to look.
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Old 06-14-2013, 08:28 AM   #1354
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Question Too much of a project

Thanks for the encouragement Greg. Now when I look at trailer ads, I'm noticing nearly all have some corrosion.

Bob et al, would you consider this filiform corrosion to be excessive?
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Old 06-14-2013, 08:34 AM   #1355
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Thanks for the encouragement Greg. Now when I look at trailer ads, I'm noticing nearly all have some corrosion.

Bob et al, would you consider this filiform corrosion to be excessive?
The first question....

Is this a trailer your thinking of buying?

Bob
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Old 06-14-2013, 08:42 AM   #1356
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Bob, I'm afraid so...

I'd appreciate a candid reply.

Grace
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Old 06-14-2013, 08:55 AM   #1357
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Remember the corrosion is only cosmetic, so if it bothers you a lot then skip on Airstreams. If you can live with it then buy the airstream you want or need and then deal with the corrosion however you seem fit to do. Do not buy a floor pan you do not like just because it has less corrosion. You have to camp in this thing, and from inside you cannot see the corrosion. Do not worry about what others think, do what you want to do. Jim
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Old 06-14-2013, 09:00 AM   #1358
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Bob, I'm afraid so...

I'd appreciate a candid reply.

Grace
Typical of a late model used near salt water or northern winter road salt. Not for me, that's a lot of work to fix, it must be fixed by someone who knows what they're doing, and it will need regular attention or will come right back.

Look for one in Arizona, I have seen late model Airstreams there with none of this.

Then; San Diego coastal communities have salt in the air. The aluminum screens on our former house there knew it. You will have to clean and use corrosion preventive treatments regularly, let it go for a couple of years and a new trailer will look like this one.

There is good info in this forum on corrosion prevention and repair but it's usually buried with grumbling.

doug k
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