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Old 01-03-2013, 02:21 PM   #1331
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Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS View Post
..........."but for whatever reason Airstream could no longer finish in-house"

True...but not quite. It probably has more to do with bottom line $$$$$$$.

A state of the art spray booth,(OSHA), is not cheep, just ask any new car dealer principal.
Plus the added cost of the labor to do a quality job.

It would be interesting to see JC's cost analysis on this....if one was ever done.

Bob
The reason is EPA related. In trying to meet emission standards in the 90's they started changing the clear coat formulas, with some disastrous results. Some of those later 90's units had some bad cases of clear coat peel. Alcoa pre finished panels solved the issues, although not without today's problems.

Jack
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Old 01-03-2013, 02:56 PM   #1332
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Jack,

Granted the 90's clearcoat options left much to be desired and not a lot on the car's OR Airstreams.

Today's coatings are much improved, but they do need the proper equipment and personal that have been well schooled in their use.

Bob
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Old 01-03-2013, 06:02 PM   #1333
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS View Post
Jack,

Granted the 90's clearcoat options left much to be desired and not a lot on the car's OR Airstreams.

Today's coatings are much improved, but they do need the proper equipment and personal that have been well schooled in their use.

Bob
Bob, I do agree.
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Old 01-05-2013, 01:14 PM   #1334
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This issue keeps coming up—why doesn't Airstream treat the cut edges with some sort of coating to prevent corrosion? A sidelight is the question whether factory workers drag the panels along the floor wearing off the coating on uncut edges?

The latter is a QC issue and whether it has been addressed is unanswered.

Would the gov't regs require a spray booth or other expensive equipment to put something on the cut edges? A small amount is all that would be necessary. Maybe they could do it outside rather than inside the factory, though that may be a far fetched idea.

Company guys lurking—can you answer these questions?

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Old 01-10-2013, 11:12 PM   #1335
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This issue keeps coming upwhy doesn't Airstream treat the cut edges with some sort of coating to prevent corrosion? A sidelight is the question whether factory workers drag the panels along the floor wearing off the coating on uncut edges?

Gene

Gene, it's not just the edges.....there are hundreds, if not thousands of cuts/holes in the sheet metal. Every rivet hole, every window cut, every vent opening is a possible source for the coating to be disturbed. The rivets are not themselves 100% water tight, they place caulk inside along the rivets to seal it from leaks (I think it's silkaflex), but that doesn't address the issue of the water getting behind the rivet head and to the hole they punched in the sheet metal with that big hole punching machine they use to create the rivet holes.

Though I don't disagree, something should be done. From a cost perspective, the belt line trim was their down and dirty answer for the belt line, but that doesn't IMHO address the multitude of other source points. Though mine in the end never got nearly as bad as the one's I saw, I had several rivets where the spiders grew out of.

I think what helped in my case is that it's stored indoors, somewhat climate controlled and it gets washed after every trip, and waxed 2x a season.

Since this all started (hard to believe it's been almost 10 years now), mum is the word. I doubt you'll get any public answers from the factory on this subject. Maybe some off line chatter, but that would be about it.
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Old 03-16-2013, 10:10 AM   #1336
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I see there are many posts and reading them all would be daunting.

Perhaps this has been addressed by you Airforum Veterans but could this be an electrical/electrolysis issue? I have seen it in other low voltage environments. You may have seen it too on wiring connections and such. I know that aluminum electrical connections are treated with some sort of anti-corrosion paste after they are made.

Any Electrical Engineers out there? My uneducated thought process asks the following questions:

What if the "battery kill switch" is always turned OFF when the coach is not in use?

What if an electrical cord is always plugged in when stored..... if able?
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Old 03-16-2013, 10:19 AM   #1337
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Earthcreeper View Post
I see there are many posts and reading them all would be daunting.

Perhaps this has been addressed by you Airforum Veterans but could this be an electrical/electrolysis issue? I have seen it in other low voltage environments. You may have seen it too on wiring connections and such. I know that aluminum electrical connections are treated with some sort of anti-corrosion paste after they are made.

Any Electrical Engineers out there? My uneducated thought process asks the following questions:

What if the "battery kill switch" is always turned OFF when the coach is not in use?

What if an electrical cord is always plugged in when stored..... if able?
Click on the link in this post
for an explanation of our most troublesome corrosion concern.

Bob
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Old 03-16-2013, 02:24 PM   #1338
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Earthcreeper View Post
I see there are many posts and reading them all would be daunting.

Perhaps this has been addressed by you Airforum Veterans but could this be an electrical/electrolysis issue? I have seen it in other low voltage environments. You may have seen it too on wiring connections and such. I know that aluminum electrical connections are treated with some sort of anti-corrosion paste after they are made.

Any Electrical Engineers out there? My uneducated thought process asks the following questions:

What if the "battery kill switch" is always turned OFF when the coach is not in use?

What if an electrical cord is always plugged in when stored..... if able?
The trailer would need to effectively be immersed in a conductive liquid for this to be the cause - think of the stern drive or an outboard motor on a boat as an example. In such a case corrosion can be controlled by the use of a sacrificial anode (commonly a zinc bar attached to the submersed part) or an applied impressed current to counter-act the normal depletion of the weaker metal in the electrochemical reaction. The fad nowadays is to sell such devices for automobiles, but it only can work if the car is submerged. Good for boats, not so good for cars. My brother has one on his truck and swears by it. I rank it right up there with the Q-Ray, but that's just my opinion - no offense to any Q-Ray wearers out there. If you use both the Q-Ray and electric corrosion protection on your car maybe you will live to 150 still driving the same vehicle!
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Old 03-17-2013, 12:27 PM   #1339
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I think you are saying it cannot be anything electrical. In my case it's the battery box door frames and the aluminum mag wheels. Can't get my head around that. Spider web like corrosion on the wheels and white crusty corrosion on the battery door box frames.
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Old 03-17-2013, 01:27 PM   #1340
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I think you are saying it cannot be anything electrical. In my case it's the battery box door frames and the aluminum mag wheels. Can't get my head around that. Spider web like corrosion on the wheels and white crusty corrosion on the battery door box frames.
Very poor clearcoat application is the problem with the frames.
A combination of peeling & filiform on the wheels, bezels, panels and door hinges.

What I did....

Wet sandpaper, a good polish and sealer will take care of the battery door frames.




Thorough removal and sealing of the filiform will stop the progression.





Good old Aluminum paint for the door hinges.



Have fun...

Just realized how many times I've posted these pic's on this thread....oh well.

Bob
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Old 03-17-2013, 01:39 PM   #1341
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Just realized how many times I've posted these pic's on this thread....oh well.

Bob
Yeh, it looks likes you've had a couple of cases of that Honey Brown by now.

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Old 03-17-2013, 03:57 PM   #1342
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS View Post

Very poor clearcoat application is the problem with the frames.
A combination of peeling & filiform on the wheels, bezels, panels and door hinges.

What I did....

Wet sandpaper, a good polish and sealer will take care of the battery door frames.

Thorough removal and sealing of the filiform will stop the progression.

Good old Aluminum paint for the door hinges.

Have fun...

Just realized how many times I've posted these pic's on this thread....oh well.

Bob

Bob:

I think you are the guy I am looking for. :>) Great information. I am a real rookie at this so I apologize.

I assume I can remove the battery door frames easily, I hope that is right. I was thinking I needed to replace them but you have given me hope. Then, is there a product that removes the corrosion prior to wet sanding (what grit do you use?) or simply start sanding? Then polish. Is that done with a power polisher and rubbing compound or??? Then comes the sealing process. Is that in a spray can and if so, high gloss or satin or flat finish?. I have read about finger nail polish but I must say, your fix looks very professional and I doubt that finger nail polish is the hero here.

Joe
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Old 03-17-2013, 05:59 PM   #1343
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Joe,

....no I'm sorry needed!!!!

Post's 489,493.

I didn't remove the hinge or the frame. Mask with several layers of blue painters tape. Scrape and sand CAREFULLY!!.

I probably went overboard with the primer on the hinges but they have held up well.

Stainless paint was used on the obvious filiform repairs. Thomas stainless paint.

On other areas I cleaned well, settling on dental scaling tools,(Amazon), smoothed carefully and sealed with automotive brush-on clear. A clear nail polish also works well.
Sealing is most important to keep the filiform from spreading.

Bob
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Old 03-17-2013, 08:50 PM   #1344
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Listen to Bob. A lifelong mechanic, he knows this stuff.

Disclosure: Bob may have fixed a car of mine 40 years ago when we lived in the same neighborhood. I took the car to a shop he worked at. We never met until I was on this Forum several years ago.

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