Corrosion problems with new Airstreams

[dkottum]

Originally Posted by SilverCabin

I'd like to hear more on this. Perhaps some pictures and how you used it to detect the leaks. In a later post you said the leaks were on the shell at awning attachments. How did you trace them from the floor to there?

So we don't hijack this thread, perhaps a reply on a maintenance forum thread would keep everyone happy.

Thanks,

Randy

There's already several threads on it, here's the earliest one.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f36/...ter-83258.html

My shell leaks were all directly above the damp plywood, look for exterior fittings/windows under high drainage from the roof (ends of awnings). Loose window latches, pop rivets with unsealed centers or edges, loose door hinges are likely. A Seal-Tec leak test at Airstream confirmed what my moisture meter had found. A thorough Seal-Tec test can run $400, Sonin moisture meter less than $30. Good time to check is after downpour or good rinse with the hose.

[streaminwild]

Thankyou dkottum for posting the detector thred. Bought mine today... probing this saturday. Sometimes a little hyjack does'nt hurt.

[interstateflyer]

Most every Airstream owner that I know has either sold or traded in their trailer and purchased another. It would seem that filiform corrosion would impact resale or trade-in value. Has anyone here had experience with any amount of filiform impacting the value?

[Wayne&Sam]

Good point!

[Wingeezer]

Originally Posted by interstateflyer

Most every Airstream owner that I know has either sold or traded in their trailer and purchased another. It would seem that filiform corrosion would impact resale or trade-in value. Has anyone here had experience with any amount of filiform impacting the value?

Well I am one who owns a 2005 AS and am at a stage in my life where I would consider trading up to a new AS just to "hopefully" have my last 5-10 years of RV'ing in a relatively trouble free unit.

But as long as AS still have the filiform problem on brand new units (I know it is cosmetic but it would just annoy me too much to see this on a trailer in its first year!), and as long as they still carry on with wooden floors, I guess I'll just be sticking with why I've got and live with a few more mechanical electrical issues now and then as the trailer ages!

Brian.

[dkottum]

Originally Posted by Wingeezer

Well I am one who owns a 2005 AS and am at a stage in my life where I would consider trading up to a new AS just to "hopefully" have my last 5-10 years of RV'ing in a relatively trouble free unit.

But as long as AS still have the filiform problem on brand new units (I know it is cosmetic but it would just annoy me too much to see this on a trailer in its first year!), and as long as they still carry on with wooden floors, I guess I'll just be sticking with why I've got and live with a few more mechanical electrical issues now and then as the trailer ages!

Brian.

Brian, you could use the corrosion prevention and control routines described by many in this thread and enjoy a new Airstream with little concern. On the other hand, in northern winter road salt I've never had a vehicle or trailer that is immune to it.

[xrvr]

D, you are correct! Jim

[interstateflyer]

Originally Posted by dkottum

Brian, you could use the corrosion prevention and control routines described by many in this thread and enjoy a new Airstream with little concern. On the other hand, in northern winter road salt I've never had a vehicle or trailer that is immune to it.

Can you, in a nut shell, describe what you would do to a brand new Airstream to prevent corrosion.

[switz]

Store it in a climate controlled environment and look at it once in awhile from outside the enclosure?

[Wingeezer]

Originally Posted by dkottum

Brian, you could use the corrosion prevention and control routines described by many in this thread and enjoy a new Airstream with little concern. On the other hand, in northern winter road salt I've never had a vehicle or trailer that is immune to it.

Doug,

True enough, and I might consider that if I were able to keep my trailer at home - and even more so if I had indoor storage.

But as it is, I don't have room on my property in the city and must store it about 30 minutes away for $1000 a year. (Outside storage yard.)

I can only keep it overnight on the street where we live a few nights a year (by permit), which I do when we bring it home to pack, or return from a trip so I really cannot look after it the way would like to - as I do with our other vehicles.

Ive been trying to talk my wife into trading on a B class van and changing our RV lifestyle a bit (i.e. when we want to stay south someplace for an extended time, driving down in the van then renting a condo for a month or so), but she still feels she would not like the B van. I think I would enjoy it, and also I could keep it at home and look after it as I would like to!

Not going to happen I don't think! You know what they say "When mamma ain't happy ......etc!"


Brian.

[dkottum]

Originally Posted by interstateflyer

Can you, in a nut shell, describe what you would do to a brand new Airstream to prevent corrosion.

In a nutshell here's what we did the day we brought it home and have no corrosion anywhere after 2 1/2 years of heavy use. But we have not pulled it through winter road salt or parked it at the beach.

Treat all exterior cut panel edges, rivets (holes), and exterior fittings (such as tail lights, door handle, hinges) and wheels with CorrosionX. Q-Tip to dab the rivets and edges well, spray the fittings. Let it soak for a few minutes and wipe it off.

Spray the underbody steel such as steps, frame, spare tire and support, axles liberally with Boeshield T9, it leaves a paraffin wax coating. (Be careful not to get any into the brake drums). CorrosionX HD (heavy duty) may also be a good product for this.

I inspect the shell quarterly for corrosion or nicks to touch up with clear acrylic pen. Then reapply the CorrosionX on the shell quarterly and Boeshield T9 to the underbody annually. I use a quality polish on the shell once a year, and wash the trailer as needed to keep it reasonably clean.

None of this is difficult, nor does it take long to do. The idea is to keep a barrier between the exposed (raw) metal of the shell, and the lightly painted frame parts and environmental corrosives, such as northern winter road salt and coastal salt in the air. And to regularly inspect and repair minor corrosion before it spreads.

A Corrosion Control Plan is not the same for every environmental condition. Develop your own according to where you live and travel. In the desert don't worry about it, on the coast wash, inspect, treat, and repair regularly.

[m.hony]

I have had my trailer 1 1/2 years. It has been used very often. It has been to the beach twice. I still have no idea what this corrosion is or what it looks like.

[kscherzi]

Originally Posted by m.hony

I have had my trailer 1 1/2 years. It has been used very often. It has been to the beach twice. I still have no idea what this corrosion is or what it looks like.

Ditto. After reading these threads I decided it was time to wax my one year old trailer. I found some corrosion on the outside door handle. Never noticed it before. I've been to the beach a lot. Now I'm getting paranoid. I bought all the chemicals recommended by Doug and others. Plan on a wholesale repair and maintenance program this June.


Never thought about it with my old SOB trailer. Just wrote it off to normal wear and tear. The Airstream seems to being out the obsessive compulsive behavior.

[m.hony]

I washed my trailer 4/19/2014. I saw no corrosion.

[Howard L.]

Originally Posted by interstateflyer

Can you, in a nut shell, describe what you would do to a brand new Airstream to prevent corrosion.

Interstate and Doug, I'd like to add one thing here if I could, regarding a brand new trailer. Filiform, if you are unlucky enough to get it (some do and some seem to have no problem) is going to first show up from under a rivet or start on the exposed/overlapping edges of the body panels (or before the new clearance light gaskets, on each end of the light base). For the rivets, Corrosion X soaking in under the rivet head is about all you can do. For the exposed edges, where damage to the clear coat most likely happened during assembly at the factory, or in shipping, you can do more with. Re-clear coat each edge using a small artist touch up brush. you are in effect, just re-clear coating the edge in case the factory applied coat has been compromised. liquid clear coat of your choice, but as posted before, I use the polymer based "Nyalic". It adheres to to metal, paint, other clear coat, etc. very well and does not break down via UV, salt, etc. After the edges are dry, then apply your Corrosion X to the seams themselves. This takes very little time. It will not be necessary as long as the edges are coated well, but you will only know they are not after the filiform starts to form. So the edge touch up just guarantees full and permanent coverage. Here's what happens if an edge coating is compromised and you spend a couple of weeks next to salt air.



Order Nyalic on line:



Your clear coat on cast pieces and things like the wheel well trim will show loss of coating sooner than you would like. They are an easy fix with Nyalic also. Just sand with 2000 grit and either tape off and spray or if small like the boarding handle, hinges or trim, use a slightly larger brush. The product flows very well and thus small brush work looks as good as spray.

Tail light castings sprayed and door hinge brushed.




If I was bringing one home brand new right now, I would lightly sand and go ahead and coat right over the factory clear on the handle, hinges, tail light castings, wheel well trim and maybe even the rear bumper. Again, no problem if you don't the fix is easy when needed.

[Bigskyrider8]

Great post Howard, Thanks!

[dkottum]

Thanks Howard, I'm going to add painting those cut edges with Nyalic to my corrosion control plan. Looks like this is a one-time application unless a future filiform repair is needed.

I wonder if there is any flexing between panel overlaps. Have you noticed anything on your edges painted with Nyalic that indicates movement between panels?

[Florida 55]

I took the factory tour Tuesday. I noticed they are still dragging the aluminum segments on the floor along the bottom edge which breaks the seal Alcoa puts on the aluminum and allows the filaform corrosion to begin.

I can't understand why they don't have a rolling cart with padding to support the aluminum side panel to assist with transporting inside the factory. Another option would be to have an overhead conveyor to attach the panel to when moving it from one place to another. Instead I witnessed multiple occasions of two employees holding a large panel and dragging it across the floor.

Perhaps Airstream should hire some TQM and Lean Manufacturing consultants to help them engineer better processes.

[dkottum]

Yesterday I was towing the Airstream east near Dickinson, North Dakota with some of the strongest crosswinds I have seen, from the northeast. A gravel truck went flying by showering the street side panel between the rock guard and stainless segment protector. as well as the protectors themselves.

I'm looking for a good repair to a bunch of tiny nicks in the panel. That's a lot of acrylic touchup pen. These are the sort of things that become difficult to protect effectively while keeping it looking good. The touchup will show but it will not spread; if I leave it go to filiform (and it will) I can expect it to spread.

[dkottum]

Originally Posted by Florida 55

I took the factory tour Tuesday. I noticed they are still dragging the aluminum segments on the floor along the bottom edge which breaks the seal Alcoa puts on the aluminum and allows the filaform corrosion to begin.

I can't understand why they don't have a rolling cart with padding to support the aluminum side panel to assist with transporting inside the factory. Another option would be to have an overhead conveyor to attach the panel to when moving it from one place to another. Instead I witnessed multiple occasions of two employees holding a large panel and dragging it across the floor.

Perhaps Airstream should hire some TQM and Lean Manufacturing consultants to help them engineer better processes.

Chuck, it really doesn't matter that they are dragging the panel edges across the floor. The Alcoa precoated panel edges are already opened by the cutting process that sized them to fit. If they were to tip the panels on their side and drag them, they would ruin the panel and you would very clearly see it.

Airstreams are hand-built by assembly workers. If they used only highly-skilled craftsmen I couldn't afford to buy one, and I'm not sure they would be any better. Ours came out looking really good, so I'm satisfied with the process.
With more than a little pride that it is American made.