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Old 12-27-2012, 12:00 PM   #1317
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Pharmgeek, a checklist would not be universal, but regional. Or like us, this winter Arizona desert, next winter Calif coast, next Key West. Very different environments. Some pull their rig through winter salted roads, can't think of anything worse than that. Airstream ships new trailers over winter salted roads.

The prevention is to keep the saltwater off the vulnerable areas of the shell, frame, and running gear as best you can. It can be done with coatings such as CorrosionX, Boeshield T9, paint sealers, touch up scratches/dings, washing as needed, garaging, removing and recoating affected areas promptly. Regular washes, inspections, and reapplying are needed, more often in corrosive environments.

Good to include leak inspection in your regular maintenance. Look over the interior, especially under windows and doors, and around roof openings for signs of leakage. The ONLY way to inspect the subfloor is to use a Moisture Detection Meter and probe through the vinyl into the plywood subfloor. Probe the perimeter of the floor in various and likely places.

I like to do these things quarterly, especially after a heavy, lengthy rainstorm. Wash, inspect, repair as needed, and retreat with corrosion preventive coatings. This is also a good time to apply an ultraviolet protective coating to your exterior plastic and rubber seals, and lubricate hinges and locks.

doug k
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Old 12-27-2012, 12:19 PM   #1318
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Question

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Originally Posted by grabob View Post
This thread is about corrosion, but regarding your leak, we had some leaks at both front & back windows on our 08 19' SE. They were very hard to find and we exhausted 2 dealers before finding them ourselves. Look for incorrectly sealed rivets in the window drip rails, even small imperfections in rivet seating or poorly applied sealant. We had to remove factory applied sealant and re-fill "extra" rivet holes and recover some others, but this worked for us.
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I would try the rattle cans of Wurth clear coat. I've used it over their paint on alloy wheels on some old cars. Does a good job and small packages.
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ive been interested in this thread as we are pondering an AS purchase in the beginning of 2014....

you all have put alot into this thread and provided a great deal of info...I feel IF we go the AS route, we will at least be more prepared to monitor for and stymie any corrosion....

We live 4 hours north of the gulf of mexico in Birmingham, AL....but we will take at least on week long trip to the beach per year, but likely more than that including short weekend trips...so assuming I would end up going the AS route, I want to be that much more careful about this.

I have a year to think about it.....

Has anyone within this thread compiled a lengthy all inclusive list of possible to do's and do nots to do the best we new comers and anyone can to prevent, mitigate, or cure these problems? I have gleaned alot from the thread, but perhaps a summary of the high points would help?

Like at this point is there a checklist that AS should/would give to new owners to do the best we can to prevent this and or mitigate? What would this checklist say?

Thanks!
If you've read the "corrosion threads"........

Here's another War & Peace one to read and contemplate....


It may help in understanding the Factories position on this and other concerns owners have.......or not.

Bob
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So when is this..."old enough to know better" supposed to kick in?
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Old 12-27-2012, 02:20 PM   #1319
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can we get these on audiobook for my commute?
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Old 12-27-2012, 02:27 PM   #1320
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can we get these on audiobook for my commute?
"You don't need to drink a tub of dye to know its color."

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Old 12-27-2012, 02:44 PM   #1321
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I would not waste the money on this product. The other responses are correct. Try CorrosionX yourself, wipe off and cover AS with a good wax. I noticed that Airstream is covering the beltline of all new RVs with a beauty band that hides the beltline rivets and thus covers the prime place where Filliform started on my 2008 23'. I have moved my AS from a storage facility with a gravel floor that was always damp to a raised, sealed concrete storage facility that seems quite dry. This has greatly slowed the filiform corrosion but has not eliminated it. I guess our Houston climate has a lot to do with the corrosion.

As to your water leaks. I unfortunately had a number of leaks that the dealer spent a year trying to stop. It took a second dealer and a lot of time on my part resealing seams. The worst leak was under the Airconditioner where the electrical cables go through the top of the Airstream. There was an open hole with no sealent that was not readily visable when the AC cover was removed. Other leaks were along the seams. There are leak detectors used by members of the AS community and you can have those tests run for around $150-200. There is a machine that is run over every rivit and visable seam that detects leaks. AS will not pay for this test but it could save you a lot of trouble if leaks persist. Good Luck
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Old 12-27-2012, 04:16 PM   #1322
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I always put a moisture barrier between the concrete floor and my Airstream as concrete is a wick for moisture.I buy black plastic sheeting at Lowes.The same stuff you would use to cover your crawl space.I completely cover the area that my Airstream will sit on for the winter for about $40 dollars.Cheap insurance.And I reuse it every year.
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Old 12-28-2012, 09:31 AM   #1323
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Angry corrision problems and aluminium

Ive attached photos of a aluminum car. i dont believe they finished it with anything.
what is the purpose of clear coating if it causes such problems?
Help in Dallas
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Old 12-28-2012, 10:03 AM   #1324
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Thumbs up

POI...the above vehicle is much easier to keep clean/polished/sealed and or waxed than an AS.
If left un-coated it will oxidize. You can bet the owner will not let that happen.

The clearcoat is not the cause of the filiform , it starts after the coating has been compromised.
AS uses pre-coated panels and every rivet hole/cut edge has the potential of being a source.
AS had much fewer problems when they coated the finished shells in house.

Bob
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Old 12-28-2012, 10:47 AM   #1325
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Bob's got it right.

Gene
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Old 12-28-2012, 11:02 AM   #1326
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That's it Bob, but for whatever reason Airstream could no longer finish in-house, and Alcoa came up with the prefinished panels. So every new Airstream comes compromised wherever these panels are cut or drilled. The in-house clear coat method sprayed the entire trailer and left none of this exposed, although it would begin to peel off after a few years of sun exposure.

That's why many of us try to keep those exposed edges/rivet holes covered with a corrosion inhibitor, CorrosionX, Boeshield T9, or whatever. It certainly helps, and also penetrates existing filiform to prevent or slow its spread.

I have thought of taping a very thin line along those edges and spraying them with clear acrylic. But I think normal wear and weathering would cause it to fail in spots. So I'll stick with the wax-the-surface each year, CorrosionX-the-edges/rivet holes/fittings quarterly method.

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Old 12-28-2012, 11:08 AM   #1327
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Of these two products sold in the Airstream store, CorrosionX and Boeshied T9, I don't like Boeshied on the shell because it dries leaving a paraffin wax coating that looks nasty and is hell to clean off the panels. But I sure like it under the trailer on frame and steel parts, and axles.

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Old 12-28-2012, 11:36 AM   #1328
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..........."but for whatever reason Airstream could no longer finish in-house"

True...but not quite. It probably has more to do with bottom line $$$$$$$.

A state of the art spray booth,(OSHA), is not cheep, just ask any new car dealer principal.
Plus the added cost of the labor to do a quality job.

It would be interesting to see JC's cost analysis on this....if one was ever done.

Bob
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Old 12-28-2012, 12:50 PM   #1329
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There seems to be three finishes over the years of Airstream. None, which tarnishes. Clear coat, which peels. Prefinished panels, which get filiform at the edges.

I'm not convinced one is better than the other, they all need maintenance to look decent, and they all look better from a distance after time.

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Old 12-29-2012, 06:50 AM   #1330
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Hey Guys,
I appreciate all the input. I guess whatever I do it is still going to cost time, elbow grease and of course $$$.
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