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Old 08-30-2012, 06:31 AM   #1289
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Sierra,

I've read every thread on corrosion posted in this forum since 2007 and from a statistical standpoint it looks like 30 AS per 1200 or 2.5% produced have some form of corrosion issues fairly quickly. This is a very low number compared to total production. Of course not everyone experiencing problems posts in this forum. The most common examples are:

- Around rivets
- Seams
- Grab bar on door entry
- Door hinges
- Running lights
- Taillights

On newer models the running light installation issue has been addressed by the installation of a gasket on the running light base before mounting it against the coated aluminum skin at the factory. This prevents the base plate from destroying the integrity of the coating at install or from road vibration.

On almost every model the taillights are installed with a thick bead of putty on the edge of the assembly that is in contact with the aluminum skin and then thoroughly sealed with Adseal. However since the rear led lights are not mounted to the taillight frame with sealant water can still penetrate to the inside of the housing. I would recommend that you seal around this area with clear bead of Adseal or Parbond. (let me know know if want a pic posted of this area)

As stated in my previous post this is my second AS and the first had zero corrosion or any other material defects evident after 3 years of operation. My current AS also has zero corrosion other than where the taillight assemblies destroyed the integrity of the aluminum coating.

I have looked at least a hundred new and used AS from Texas to Florida and by and large they were corrosion free. Overall corrosion issues on AS can be controlled by good preventive maintenance. It is a small price to pay for the overall quality and durability of an AS. I would never replace my AS with on from some other brand (SOB).
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Old 10-31-2012, 09:28 AM   #1290
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Filiform??

Can anyone tell me by looking at the attached pictures if this is "filiform" corrosion?
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File Type: bmp Door Handle.bmp (230.7 KB, 109 views)
File Type: bmp Rear Lens.bmp (924.0 KB, 105 views)
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Old 10-31-2012, 10:13 AM   #1291
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2.5% ??? How did you arrive at this.
I think you are way off the mark.
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Old 10-31-2012, 01:18 PM   #1292
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Originally Posted by grabob View Post
Can anyone tell me by looking at the attached pictures if this is "filiform" corrosion?
Strictly speaking No......

Your corrosion started after the clearcoat pealed away.
A PITA none-the-less.

Go back a few posts.....well quite a few actually.
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f142...tml#post606944

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f142...tml#post607273

Either procedure will work, some have other solutions.

Bob
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Old 11-12-2012, 12:46 PM   #1293
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Originally Posted by dkottum View Post
Good news Snaken49. Those who live in areas with no ocean salt or winter road salt exposure are fortunate. The rest of us better get stocked up on CorrosionX or Boeshield, treat troublesome areas (cut edges, rivets, fitting, and steel frame components) the day we bring it home and regularly after. (Easy to do.)

Airstream and it's dealers ought to recommend this as routine maintenance but they don't. They do shrug their shoulders when it happens.

doug k
What is the "routine"?
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Old 11-12-2012, 01:40 PM   #1294
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what is the 'appropriate' eraser?
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Old 11-12-2012, 03:02 PM   #1295
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"what is the 'appropriate' eraser?"

If by eraser you mean procedure....

These are two that I have used.

Go back a few posts.....well quite a few actually.
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f142...tml#post606944

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f142...tml#post607273

Either procedure will work, some have other solutions.

Bob
[/QUOTE]
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Old 11-12-2012, 11:50 PM   #1296
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"What is the routine?"

Regular inspection, repair, and treatment as needed to keep the trailer free of corrosion. Frequency would depend on where you live and travel. If you live in the Arizona desert you may never see corrosion on your Airstream. If you live on the Florida coast you may see it in a month of ownership.

doug k
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Old 11-13-2012, 09:48 AM   #1297
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Airstream's Answer to Beltline Filiform Corrosion-2013

I just visited the Camper Clinic Airstream dealer in Buda Texas and looked at about 40 new 2013 Airstreams. I saw all models and lengths. All now come with a chrome looking "beauty Band" that covers the belt line seam and all belt line rivets. It is an inch or so wide and covers the entire belt line including the door. The strip is simlilar to the belt line strip used on some older models of Airstream and on the Eddie Bower edition. It was on all models from Flying Cloud to Classic to International Signature.

I am disappointed that Airstream has chosen to cover up the problem instead of working on a solution to solve it. I wonder how long it will take for the filiform to work its way past the strip? Also, the strip prevents any of the treatments shown on this thread since you no longer have access to the rivets and seam edges. On one new 2013 Sterling Internationals I saw, the stick on "chrome" strip had already separated from the base plate that was screwed of riveted to the belt Line area.

As for the filiform on my 2008 23' CCD, I have moved my AS from a storage area with gravel floors to one with raised, sealed concrete floors and 15' ceilings. The new storage area is so much dryer than the gravel floored area and the rate of growth of filiform seems to have slowed dramatically. I know from experience that you do not want to store an automobile in humid areas in an enclosed gravel floor storage shed. Your car can rust from the inside out due to the trapped moisture in the gravel that acts just like a hot house in the blistering Texas sun. I suspect the same corrosive actions contribute greatly to the filiform corrosion issues some of us are having.

Conclusion- keep treating where you can and store your AS in the driest site you can afford. You can treat the seams then install and seal the new belt line strips. The new strips appear to be available for all models and lengths of AS.
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Old 11-14-2012, 06:02 AM   #1298
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I wish I could find a nice "inexpensive" indoor storage area. Mine sits outside on the asphalt driveway. I get little brown dots on the aluminum. I think they are droppings from the bugs eating tree leaves. Or maybe a sap of some kind. When wet, they are a little easier to remove.
FYI, I haven't seen any advancement of my corrosion this summer. (Since I started treating it, and AS came out and put the new bases around all the running lights.)
Jeff
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Old 11-14-2012, 06:10 PM   #1299
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I was reading a "chemist corner" tech help on filliform or branching corrosion. Interestingly it mentioned a counter agent of ammonia ????? The article said that chloride was the main agent of the corrosion acting with water. Just a thought.
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Old 11-14-2012, 09:19 PM   #1300
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2011 and early 2012 FC/Int'l LED clearance lights

My greatest concern for corrosion was the clearance light frames "digging" into the clear finish and starting corrosion (common problem on these models), and the fact that 7 of the 11 LED lights had visible water condensation in the lights shortly after I bought it.

I went to my dealer in Minnesota with the problem and the service dept refused to consider it as a warranty issue and was very rude (the end of my business with them).

I contacted Airstream about it and they offered to replace the plastic base and lens assembly with the Classic base which is cast aluminum, as well as the lens/LED fixture. Not as a warranty item specifically, but as a "good will" gesture. My sense is they are careful about replacement of standard parts which I paid for, with higher grade products from their premium model. That's fair enough and I was happy with the gesture.

As I was headed that direction anyway, I went to the Service Center in Jackson Center and they replaced my Flying Cloud plastic fixtures with the much better Classic bases and lens assemblies. There are two different Classic bases, one for the flat sides and another for the curved upper lights.

They sealed all the lenses completely, and the three rear upper bases completely. The other bases they sealed top/sides but left bottom edge open to drain.

If you have a 2011/early 2012 FC or Int'l inspect your LED clearance lights. The later models have a rubber gasket that prevents contact of the plastic base to shell. The early LED bases have a high probability of corrosion.

doug k
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Old 11-15-2012, 03:29 AM   #1301
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dkottum View Post
My greatest concern for corrosion was the clearance light frames "digging" into the clear finish and starting corrosion (common problem on these models), and the fact that 7 of the 11 LED lights had visible water condensation in the lights shortly after I bought it.

I went to my dealer in Minnesota with the problem and the service dept refused to consider it as a warranty issue and was very rude (the end of my business with them).

I contacted Airstream about it and they offered to replace the plastic base and lens assembly with the Classic base which is cast aluminum, as well as the lens/LED fixture. Not as a warranty item specifically, but as a "good will" gesture. My sense is they are careful about replacement of standard parts which I paid for, with higher grade products from their premium model. That's fair enough and I was happy with the gesture.

As I was headed that direction anyway, I went to the Service Center in Jackson Center and they replaced my Flying Cloud plastic fixtures with the much better Classic bases and lens assemblies. There are two different Classic bases, one for the flat sides and another for the curved upper lights.

They sealed all the lenses completely, and the three rear upper bases completely. The other bases they sealed top/sides but left bottom edge open to drain.

If you have a 2011/early 2012 FC or Int'l inspect your LED clearance lights. The later models have a rubber gasket that prevents contact of the plastic base to shell. The early LED bases have a high probability of corrosion.

doug k
This also affects 2010 models. Mine is a 2010 and I was in Jackson Center last month for some warranty work. All my clearance lights and bases as you described above were replaced at no charge. Here's a pic of what one looks like. BTW, these are standard on the new Classics. Russ
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Old 11-15-2012, 04:49 AM   #1302
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Thanks for all the research and advice....
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