Corrosion problems with new Airstreams

[PharmGeek]

ours was manufactured and shipped I think on 11/1/13 and picked up on 11/15/13 in mississippi....

Brought home washed, sealed with sealer....and before going to topsail hill 1/10/13 I applied the corrosion X on all seams, hinges, etc....then washed after returning from the beach.

Im watching it like a hawk...beach trips to the gulf will end up being at least once if not 2-3 times per year for us...

So far only signs of corrosion was a very small amount that appeared on grab handle next to entrance and this appeared prior to applying corrosion X prior to topsail trip.

I also removed all stickers from the airstream after getting back from topsail...if you remove them early on they come off with little or no effort, no sticky residual...except for that "green" sticker near base of entrance...that thing I am going to have to get off with a plastic bone tool and some goo gone perhaps today.

Also washing the airstream monthly....I do not have it covered at this time

It sucks to see this happening to folks!

The airstream manual does not make a mention of this issue as I recall for reasons I think covered already in this thread....(not that I find those reasons re-assuring)....but it would be nice to understand more in detail why it happens to some and not to others and with that knowledge you could better publish preventative maintenance for all to see and for dealers to clearly communicate...

My AS will see plenty of salty air in the coming years so ill be curious to see if I develop any issues...

Im not an expert on the legal side of things etc...but I can totally understand the frustration about this issue.

I hope with time we all better understand how it happens in greater detail and how we can all effectively prevent or mitigate.

[r carl]

If you want the facts from the horses mouth, go here.
Alcoa North American Rolled Products: Contact Us: Customer Service

[deanNdonna]

Mine is stored outside in central NJ. I thought they were made to be stored outside, so shouldn't environmental conditions been considered during the design and manufacturing of this product? Blame who ever you want to, airstream or Alcoa, but airstream is coupable in this since it is their product. But what do I know, I am just some guy who bought one.

[dkottum]

dean, ours has been outside since new as well but has not been on salt treated roadways or parked near he beach. I think that may be the difference, but I also treat it quarterly with anti-corrosive products (CorrosionX on the shell, Boeshield underbody steel) since new.

I think the difference is primarily salt environments, because I have seen many late model Airstreams in Arizona with no filiform. From some experiences on this thread it seems anti-corrosion treatments can mitigate or prevent corrosion.

In your case, to help with our learning experience, it would be good to know what the trailer may have been exposed to aside from the outdoor environment where it is stored, and also if you have used any anti-corrosion products.

[Howard L.]

Class action? Wow, we're talking the same talk as from this thread's beginning in 2007. Back where we started from? Not really, like a broken record, let me point out again, the answers to controlling this problem are posted here. Repairs and preventative maintainence listed here by owners are successful. This is rolled aluminum, not anodized, not primed and then painted. It is clear coated and any spot of missing or damaged clear coat is a spot for Filiform to start. An anti corrosive film of Corrosion X, CRC, Corrosion Block will not let that happen. Also if any missing clear coat were fixed, were touched up, corrosion would not start either. Most often any missing clear coat is unknown until trailer spends some time in a higher than normal corrosive environment--beach, salt roads, high humidity, etc.

In my case, Filiform started at end panel exposed edges, rivets and the front/rear of the 2012 clearance lights right after a 3 week stay near the windy TX beach . Re-sealed all exposed panel edges with Nyalic clear coat, soaked all rivets with corrosion x., installed Classic clearance light base fix to hide corrosion there and touch up sprayed aluminum panel edges where Filiform was sanded. I keep a good coat of polish on the trailer also. We've been camping at the beach twice since that first trip, and no corrosion of any king has reoccurred. Sooner or later it probably will, but will be ready to stop with corrosion x and a touch up brush of clear coat.

[silverwheels]

This is a question for those of you who recently purchased your rigs (I'm the 2nd owner and did not receive one) ....Did you receive a maintenance manual? If so, was treating filiform part of the maintenance schedule?

[PharmGeek]

No - not in manual - ill double check

[Kingfish52]

Since AS and alcoa are neither one going to do anything ( it's no our problem), I quess it"s up the the owners to do what we can to stop the spread of the corrosion. I agree that the steps for treatment are all on this thread and should be followed.
I also had classic marker lights installed at no cost but I think only because AS knew they were at fault due to the use of wrong gaskets and light bases for the marker lights. Apparently they see no fault in the manufacturing process that would cause filliform else where on the unit.
My bumper is also discoloring and the service tech at my dealer said they would replace it but the new one would look the same in 2-3 years. Recommended laquer thinner and steel wool to remove the poor clearcoat , polish, and recoat with your own clearcoat. Says something about the products being used at the factory.
I live 30 min. from Dick McIntyre, refered to in an earlier post, and when I get time will go to his shop and see if he has a different solution to our problem. His web site says he does. In the mean time I will use the methods
tried and tested by the great people on this forum.

[xrvr]

Obviously this is a major concern for some but, please enjoy your AS. The corrosion is only a cosmetic problem. Jim

[Gene]

'wheels", no it is not in the owner's manual for 2008 that I have for a 25'. You may be able to find a copy of the manual on the Airstream website if you look around long enough. They may even have some extras if you call customer relations. Several years back the company promised to help some people with corrosion problems, but it was on the Town Hall thread and that thread has been "disappeared" by the Forum honchos for some reason. The point is that Airstream did offer help for some people and if you call and tell them what problems you are having you may be able to get some help.

Gene

[Howard L.]

Originally Posted by Kingfish52

My bumper is also discoloring and the service tech at my dealer said they would replace it but the new one would look the same in 2-3 years. Recommended laquer thinner and steel wool to remove the poor clearcoat , polish, and recoat with your own clearcoat. Says something about the products being used at the factory.
I live 30 min. from Dick McIntyre, refered to in an earlier post, and when I get time will go to his shop and see if he has a different solution to our problem. His web site says he does. .

Kingfish. When you talk to Mr. McIntyre, ask and post for us the brand of Clear Coat he uses to repair and protect. If you think back in time to older automobiles's seen, given time and enough sun, the clear coat breaks down. The same thing happens to nice brass hardware such as front door handles and knobs. These clear coats are usually a lacquer or acrylic compound. I am convinced that the clear coat covering the cast pieces of our trailers is some form of acrylic or lacquer or some cheaper product. Our door handles, hinges, tail lights, bumpers all show clear coat failure very early. (trailer skin clear coat seems to hold up well, It would be nice to know what Alcoa uses there)
I've used a Polymer clear coat "Nyalic" to recoat castings and wheel well trim on our 2012 30. It appears to have completely solved the corrosion to those castings (door hinges, handle, tail lights, etc.). I used the product in the past to stop corrosion to fishing boat aluminum outriggers used in offshore saltwater environment. After 5 years, the corrosive craters in the aluminum rods still showed but never progressed and remained sealed. I only have a year of trial on the Flying cloud, but I see no reason not to expect the same good results. It would, however, be good for us to know what Mr. McIntyre thinks and does.

[deanNdonna]

Nope no mention. Not even during the walk through the dealer gave us on the operation and care of the trailer.

[Brokerchris]

Wow- this rabbit hole goes deep.

We took delivery of a 2013 23FB in November and the handle and rear bumper show signs of corrosion (handle is the worst).

I am purchasing some corrosion X- there are a few types- one in a spray can and one in a plastic bottle. Which one is everyone using? I have some concerns using this product on the door handle, since we will be touching it every time we enter and have an infant child traveling with us. Thoughts?

Dealer tells me just use steel wool on the handle and then spray it with clear coat- they are avoiding the bumper conversation all together.

We live and store the A/S outside and only 10 mins from the ocean. I would expect this on lower quality trailers- seems pretty crappy to have this happening so soon.

[Howard L.]

Corrosion X is the same in spray can or plastic squirt bottle. There is an aviation version and a XD, heavy duty, version, but C-X is not what you need on the cast pieces or the bumper. Those parts--handle, hinges, wheel well trim, rear bumper just plain old have a poor clear coating. When they get to look so bad you want to fix, steel wool or sand with 200 - 400 wet/dry black paper and re-clearcoat. Look 5 posts above, I use Nyalic a polymer clear coat that, in my experience, holds up to UV, salt water, whatever very well. It is very thin and flows well, so you can brush it on and it looks great. I would probably tape off and spray a large area like the bumper, but the handle and door hinges, can be brushed with a small 1/4 or 1/2 inch artist touch up brush. The hinge above was sanded and Nyalic then brushed on. The tail light casting was taped off and then sprayed, again with Nyalic. Google Nyalic, you can order repair kits or just a spray can at a time. You can buy a pint of the liquid, but that cost a good bit over $100. Buy a spray can for spray work, and where you plan to brush on the product, spray some out in it's own lid and paint from there.
Lots of other clear coats out there that work well also. Polymer just does not break down, it is softer however so on your handle, it may get nicked and require a touch up now and then, but that's easy to do.

[dkottum]

Originally Posted by Brokerchris

Wow- this rabbit hole goes deep.

We took delivery of a 2013 23FB in November and the handle and rear bumper show signs of corrosion (handle is the worst).

We live and store the A/S outside and only 10 mins from the ocean. I would expect this on lower quality trailers- seems pretty crappy to have this happening so soon.

The unprotected metal of Airstreams (or any RV) exposed to coastal salt air or northern road salt will corrode rather quickly and needs a corrosion protection and control plan.

Some methods are suggested in this thread but comes down to regular cleaning, inspections, and treatment with protective products, and repair of corroded areas to control spread.

We live inland but travel widely. An effective system for us has been washing right after exposure to salt environment, quarterly inspections followed by treating the shell panel edges, rivets, and accessories with Corrosion X, and spraying the underbody steel with Boeshield T9. No corrosion yet but will carefully clean it and paint it with clear coat or Nyalic. Any nicks I see I touch them up with a clear coat pen. Most folks apply a coat of wax or sealant (I like Glare products for this) frequently enough to ensure the surfaces are protected, but I doubt that in itself will prevent corrosion of exposed metal.

Anyone with a new trailer should apply corrosion protection products as soon as it comes home and follow regularly according to environmental conditions to keep your Airstream looking good.

That's the easiest way to deal with it.

[David Logue]

Howard L. ,
I'm just up the road from you in North Dallas area. I've got the 25 Safari.
I also have some rivet filliform around the top front, around both tail light trim pieces.
My question is how deep do you sand the aluminum? Just till you remove the filliform, or deeper?
Thanks, Dave in Dallas

[Howard L.]

Originally Posted by David Logue

Howard L. ,
I'm just up the road from you in North Dallas area. I've got the 25 Safari.
I also have some rivet filliform around the top front, around both tail light trim pieces.
My question is how deep do you sand the aluminum? Just till you remove the filliform, or deeper?
Thanks, Dave in Dallas

Look at post 1825 above. If you sand the filiform away, it will change the skin color, where sanded, to a dull gray. Be sure you want to get in that deep before you do anything other than corrosion X followed by re-sealing with a touch up of clear coat. The photos in post 1825 show before, after sanding and spray paint I used to closely restore the Alcoa look. To get the sanded, and then re-spray painted area to look as natural as possible, you have to build a stand off/taped off area out of poster board. This minimizes the area of spray and keeps from Spraying a hard edge. If you choose to sand, just enough to remove the filiform lines is sufficient--just the surface. That is where the filiform is, under the clear coat and on AL surface. Dremel has a little buffing wheel (course is tan and fine is black) that works well. If you sand and repaint with the metallic paint, shoot a coat of clear coat over the area to reseal.

This is all a lot of work, and the metallic paint is good, but not a perfect match. Unless your filiform is major, I would recommend corrosion x , wipe off then reseal with clear coat.

[David Logue]

Howard, thank you for the advice. I'll be giving it a try.

[Matt Kline]

Why don't the older Airstreams corrode? My 2010 has it bad. I got nothing from the dealer or Jackson Center. You appear to blame us for not maintaining but I've been driving cars for 50 years and not since the "old days" do I have rust or corrosion problems. This is not MY problem, this is Airstream's problem, and they continue to ignore it. The Airstream name has historically denoted quality, but not anymore.

[dkottum]

The older Airstreams do corrode if exposed to corrosive environment, sometimes the frames fall part, but the present filiform is due to the Alcoa clear-coated panels Airstream has used for the past 15 years. Those previously clear coated by Airstream don't look so good either after years of weather exposure, especially sun. Go figure.

Blaming anyone won't help your Airstream. There are some excellent methods described in this thread to repair and manage the corrosion, and it is especially important for those using their Airstreams near corrosive environments. Most of us.

This is really not that hard to do. It takes some time. I would expect for those who are not inclined to do this themselves, there would be Airstream repair shops who know how to care for it. But they must know what they are doing.

Any good shop recommendations?