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Old 05-05-2012, 05:02 AM   #1219
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Doug,

Your exactly right...every cut edge has been compromised and is vulnerable.

I'm lucky in that, at least in our case, not all compromised areas have been effected.

So far our once-a-year sealing, frequent washings and inspections have helped keep things under control. A lot of folks have many more problems with it than I. It became apparent very early, and was dealt with, crudely at first, in a timely manner. New outbreaks have slowed considerably and time does sooth the soul.

"Time will bring to light whatever is hidden; it will cover up and conceal what is now shining in splendor." Horace.

Those "new" clearance lights.....

Hard to understand the logic,($$$$ of course), as to why the design was changed, cheaper LED fixtures possibly?
Never removed ours completely, but the base does have a slight contour that at least attempts to match the curved panels. The new ones appear to be completely flat, good luck with that.

"where a dealership broke them, says break to remove."

Clueless dealer had no idea what they were doing, and instead of finding out thought it better to just cover their a$$. If it ain't broke....fix it 'til it is.

Bob
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So when is this..."old enough to know better" supposed to kick in?
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Old 05-05-2012, 11:56 AM   #1220
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Speaking of the cheap new LED clearance lights, most of mine are already loaded with condensation, and will be replaced for that reason alone...
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Old 05-05-2012, 01:23 PM   #1221
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The problem with the LED Clearance Lights is that they're being over tightened during installation and the edge of the fixture is cutting thru the clearcoat. The edge is very sharp - if you run your finger along the curved part in the middle of the light you can see just how sharp they are - but do it gently if you don't want a cut. The lights are contoured - unfortunately they don't match the contour of the trailer and this contributes to the over tightening. This will be pointed out to whoever - or is it whomever - from customer service I talk to on Monday but I expect they will deny this is the problem. It is also something that Airstream could fix rather easily - but I seriously doubt they will.
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Old 05-05-2012, 02:22 PM   #1222
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I think you are exactly right about the edges cutting through the clearcoat, causing the corrosion; and that should be obvious when the first one is removed for inspection.
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Old 05-06-2012, 06:41 AM   #1223
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FWIW, I'll pass along my experience with our trailer.

We just got our 2007 27FB back from winter storage yesterday and it has no panel corrosion at all except for 3-4 small stone chips at the front. I touched those up with clear nail polish about 3 years ago and they are less than 1/4" in diameter.

- our trailer is washed 2-3 times per year with a high quality car wash soap and a long-handled brush
- I use Boeshield every 2-3 months and before winter storage on all panel seams by dripping it out of the small dropper bottle and letting it run down the vertical seams or along the middle horizontal seam. I often don't wipe it off.
- the tail lights have a small bit of corrosion about the size of a dime. I was sent replacements under warranty but have not bothered to install them yet. I think I will wait until (if?) it gets much worse.
- the trailer is stored outside during May - October and inside on a concrete pad during the winter months
- it was manufactured in Feb 2007 and delivered on clear roads in early April but there would likely still have been some salt remaining on the highway during the 300 mile trip from JC to the dealer
- the trailer has been mostly inland but was in Acadia Maine for a week and Newfoundland, Nova Scotia, and PEI for 2 weeks right on the ocean. I probably washed it when we got home but I don't recall.

I am posting this info not to gloat, but to hopefully add to the discussion with some info about a trailer that has no corrosion.

Oh, we've had our share of issues...Marathons and rims replaced with LTX, battery charger replaced with 3-stage, water pump replaced with variable speed, skylight replaced with Maxim and the leaky rear bumper and discolored floor under the dinette treated with Rot Doctor, etc. We just haven't had any corrosion.
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Old 05-06-2012, 09:02 AM   #1224
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Worth a lot SilverCottage, because it suggests a regular treatment with a quality corrosion treatment product has kept your trailer free of corrosion.

I used Boeshield and CorrosionX on my 2007 Safari as well, but it was applied after corrosion had started, too late. It did however stop progression of that corrosion and prevent any new outbreaks. I am using CorrosionX on the new Flying Cloud on all edges, rivets, and metal fittings.

Unfortunately Airstream is giving no direction on this, outside of the subtle hint of having these products in stock in their online store.

doug k
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Old 05-06-2012, 10:06 AM   #1225
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Different formulations of CorrosionX

I am sure this was covered earlier in this thread but I couldn't find it. The company that makes Corrosion X has literally hundreds of products in addition to Corrosion X including ones specially formulated for planes. When everyone refers to using corrosionx is it the spray by that name or is it one of the specialty products that is designed to protect aluminum?
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Old 05-07-2012, 10:18 AM   #1226
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Yes, Corrosion Technologies Corp. produces a cornucopia of intriguing products, sure to satisy the needs of new Airstream owners everywhere, and may be ordered on line directly from them.

In my case, when it became obvious that enormous amounts would be required from now on, I quickly moved from the aerosol cans (like Airstream sells) to the trigger spray version (simple liquid form), which I've found to be more efficient...(every little bit helps, after all, when you're hemorraging large quantities of such an expensive product).

Speaking of cost, it can be ordered by the gallon for $93.50; a case of 4 gallons is $374.00, and a 5 gallon bucket is $424.00. Too late now, but if only I had bought that Super Duty instead of a lowly 1/2 ton, I could order the 30 gallon vat for only $2,158.00. Now THAT'S what I call a deal!
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Old 05-07-2012, 10:24 AM   #1227
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Plus you could apply it with a pressure washer....


Bob
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So when is this..."old enough to know better" supposed to kick in?
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Old 05-07-2012, 11:09 AM   #1228
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS View Post
Plus you could apply it with a pressure washer....


Bob
Right...I'm off to look at one-tons!!
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Old 05-09-2012, 12:58 PM   #1229
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A report from Airstream on my corrosion problems and what has been done.

Had warranty work done on Monday along with a talk with a customer service rep about the filiform corrosion. So far I've won 2 and another is pending - but I expect to lose the pending.

Wheels will be replaced under mfgr warranty as less than a year old. Waiting for the replacements to arrive.

Marker Lights. Airstream has some new aluminum castings that surround and support the marker lights that are going to be used on the 2013 Classics. These are nice and can be installed without removing the light. My trailer now has them and they more than cover the area that had corrosion - and they look great. The corrosion was treated before installation and they are well sealed - not only between the casting and the trailer but also between the light and the casting. I suppose the filiform at some point in the future might sneak out from under the edge but I doubt it. I'm totally pleased with Airstream's response and when I talked to the service manager and mentioned that I thought the problem was being caused by the light base cutting into the clearcoat due to over tightening he said that Airstream had reached the same conclusion - and they have a fix. A rubber pad about 1/8" thick and slightly larger than the light base is now being used. I saw a 2012 International on which these had been installed and it looks to me like it should solve the problem.

More on the lights. The lens by itself cannot be removed. The lens, LED module etc are all one unit that with snaps on each end which fit into the base. The first version of the LED Marker Lights had plastic snaps which were very easy to break - thus the "you have to break them to remove them" info. The ones now have metal snaps and remove easily. There is also a piece of double sided tape that fits over the hole in the base the wires feed through - I guess to help seal the hole. You have to punch a hole through the tape for the wires during installation.

Hope this helps a bit. Wish I had a camera so I could take pics of the new castings but unfortunately I don't. Will be at a rally in a few weeks and if someone hasn't put up some pics by then I'll ask Steve Mentz to take some of mine for posting then.

Looks like I won't get to find out what the Jackson Center Jail is like after all!
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Old 05-09-2012, 01:30 PM   #1230
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That sounds pretty positive, Al.


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Old 05-09-2012, 02:21 PM   #1231
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Yes, good news...I've been anticipating this update...thanks!
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Old 05-09-2012, 03:34 PM   #1232
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AI,

Thanks for the update. Couldn't have come at a more opportune time for me as Customer Service emailed me today indicating they are reviewing the pictures I sent documenting the corrosion at my marker lights and will respond soon. I am better prepared now thanks to your post.

Don
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