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Old 03-07-2012, 07:16 AM   #1093
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Is this still happening?

We are moving to a 2011 23' FB Flying Cloud, from the 19' Bambi (04)
We had a pretty good dose of this white crud on the 04.
I'm curious, is it still showing up on 2011s? Etc..

If so, I guess we will try to just keep the coating on it..

Thanks,
Jeff
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Old 03-07-2012, 07:38 AM   #1094
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YEP>>>

2011 treated with CorrosionX

Inspect often, clean and seal asap.....sorry.

This is one method I have used...check others and decide what is best for you.



Bob
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Old 03-08-2012, 12:53 PM   #1095
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Angry

We have a 2005 and it has filliform all over now too. We also had the tail lights replaced under warranty and it has come back again out-of-warranty and completely covers the lights! This is an unfortunate problem that Airstream seems to AVOID discussing at all costs! I have even left messages for the President of the company. It seems to me an easy fix that they aren't willing to deal with. The sheets of aluminum are coated prior to cut and wherever they are cut the corosion occurs, also the tail lights are not coated....so what we should all ask is why don't they spray the entire trailer after production is complete!? DO NOT sand down and coat with nail polish...it will look terrible! I've heard there are better options, but still have not found the correct solution which should come from the source...AIRSTREAM ITSELF!
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Old 03-08-2012, 01:15 PM   #1096
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Welcome Aboard....

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Originally Posted by Kirbys View Post
We have a 2005 and it has filliform all over now too. We also had the tail lights replaced under warranty and it has come back again out-of-warranty and completely covers the lights! This is an unfortunate problem that Airstream seems to AVOID discussing at all costs! I have even left messages for the President of the company. It seems to me an easy fix that they aren't willing to deal with. The sheets of aluminum are coated prior to cut and wherever they are cut the corosion occurs, also the tail lights are not coated....so what we should all ask is why don't they spray the entire trailer after production is complete!? DO NOT sand down and coat with nail polish...it will look terrible! I've heard there are better options, but still have not found the correct solution which should come from the source...AIRSTREAM ITSELF!
Kirbys

Research this and other threads for control methods....

There are a few options that will dramatically slow the progression of the corrosion. You do not "sand" the clear to remove filiform. But nail polish, auto brush on or a water based clear,(Thomas's), will seal it very well.

There is no "correct" solution only a barely adequate repair.

Bob
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Old 03-08-2012, 02:16 PM   #1097
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I have this issue as I have shared. I had someone look at it and was told that this is a natural occurrance of raw aluminum exposed to the elements. The explanation was that the clearcoat works well for the Airstream panels but the cut exposed edges are target areas that sealers, paints, etc wear off most quickly and then exposure occurs. Sure enough, after his explanation every single place on my AS that has filiform is near a cut edge! Basically then the answer is to seal after cleaning it up as everyone knows already. I agree that a company working with aluminum should know the best ways of dealing with the "edges" to minimize the corrosion.
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Old 03-08-2012, 03:18 PM   #1098
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I saw a 2011 AS yesterday that had a significant amount of some sort of corrosion on the tail lights. It did not really look like filiform but it was definitely corrosion.

The filiform on my AS has really slowed with the use of Corrosion-X.
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Old 03-08-2012, 03:32 PM   #1099
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I saw a 2011 AS yesterday that had a significant amount of some sort of corrosion on the tail lights. It did not really look like filiform but it was definitely corrosion.

The filiform on my AS has really slowed with the use of Corrosion-X.
Thats the problem with the X.....not worth the effort IMO.

Bob
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Old 03-08-2012, 03:49 PM   #1100
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If CorrosionX works as advertised, it should penetrate into the filiform and displace water, and prevent water from entering. Where the filiform has not yet started it should bond and protect the bared metal edges (don't forget to treat the rivets as there are cut edges under them).

Our 2007 Safari had the usual areas of filiform when we bought it, but they were quite small. I was able to successfully stop its progress and prevent any new filiform by treating with CorrosionX. It is important to note that the trailer was not exposed to salt in the air such as on coastal areas and northern winter roadways, after we owned it. I never had large patches of filiform but would have taken the greater step of removing it carefully and painting the area.

Based on my experience I believe it is good to wash the trailer quarterly and spray CorrosionX on all exterior edges and fittings, let it soak, then wipe off the excess. Probably more often in salt air conditions.

Washing and waxing the exterior is not enough by itself because the wax does not penetrate and protect under the fittings and rivets where the corrosion starts. Nor does it penetrate existing corrosion.

doug k
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Old 03-08-2012, 05:29 PM   #1101
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Better than nothing thats for sure.

Bob
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Old 03-08-2012, 10:59 PM   #1102
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I don't own a new airstream I have a 1977 argosy. It seems to me that all these corrosion problem started when airstream changed the aluminum. The old ones where made of a better grade of aluminum. I think it was aircrafgrade aluminum.Much harder alloy. But anyway when you have two different type of metal coming in contact with each other you get corrosion. Thats how they make wet batteries. Remember the aluminum wiring in houses. The aluminum wire was fastened to the metal box with a brass screw. The aluminum been the softest metal corroded away and your house burnt down. So whats this got to do with airstream trailers. Well from the pictures I've seen It's mostly around light bezels. Are the bezels insulated from the aluminum with a rubber gasket. Does the wire going throught the aluminum skin go through a rubber grommet. are the bezels attached to the trailer with a stainless steel fastener. Other metals such as electro coated fastener do not work ONLY STAINLESS STEEL. or plastic fastener. That picture of the plastic door catch with the two screw fastening it to the skin and it ate the holes out. I don't think the screws were stainless steel.The picture of the door hinge by cloud splitter has two steel spacers against the aluminum and how is it attached to the trailer probably not stainless steel.
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Old 03-08-2012, 11:13 PM   #1103
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We would definitely be interested in class action! Just don't know who'd take it on-any lawyers out there with an Airstream willing to get this going?
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Old 03-09-2012, 05:28 AM   #1104
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Quote:
Originally Posted by geirws View Post
I don't own a new airstream I have a 1977 argosy. It seems to me that all these corrosion problem started when airstream changed the aluminum. The old ones where made of a better grade of aluminum. I think it was aircrafgrade aluminum.Much harder alloy. But anyway when you have two different type of metal coming in contact with each other you get corrosion. Thats how they make wet batteries. Remember the aluminum wiring in houses. The aluminum wire was fastened to the metal box with a brass screw. The aluminum been the softest metal corroded away and your house burnt down. So whats this got to do with airstream trailers. Well from the pictures I've seen It's mostly around light bezels. Are the bezels insulated from the aluminum with a rubber gasket. Does the wire going throught the aluminum skin go through a rubber grommet. are the bezels attached to the trailer with a stainless steel fastener. Other metals such as electro coated fastener do not work ONLY STAINLESS STEEL. or plastic fastener. That picture of the plastic door catch with the two screw fastening it to the skin and it ate the holes out. I don't think the screws were stainless steel.The picture of the door hinge by cloud splitter has two steel spacers against the aluminum and how is it attached to the trailer probably not stainless steel.
geirws,

POI...After 18 Seasons with a 63 Safari the first thing I did with the Classic was replace ALL, exterior fasteners with stainless, I learned that lesson early.
The door retainer corrosion started where the coating was compromised at the screw holes.

I didn't re-finish the entry door hinges and battery door frames because of filiform corrosion. Much the same as the taillight bezels on some coaches it was done because of poorly applied clearcoat.

Filiform is not Galvanic corrosion.

Yes... the problem became more prevalent, after Airstream stopped coating trailers in house. The alloy may very well be different, but I don't think is is the main reason for the prevalence of filiform on the newer trailers.
Anywhere the clearcoat is compromised on the pre-coated panels the chance of filiform is enhanced.

In my experience the ONLY way to stop it from spreading is to clean the filiform completely and re-coat the area with clear.

Prevention is helped by keeping all the seams and panels sealed,(Acryl-R, waxing and or paint sealer) and frequent cleanings.

Bob
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Old 03-09-2012, 07:59 AM   #1105
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San Diego? Ft. Meyers? Salt sea air contribution problem?
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Old 03-09-2012, 08:13 AM   #1106
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San Diego? Ft. Meyers? Salt sea air contribution problem?
Definitely, if close enough to get direct exposure to the salt mist, similar too northern road salt. Any area with compromised clearcoat is vulnerable.
Two three miles away....not so much. Sea born fog, more-so.

Bob
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