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Old 01-20-2010, 03:40 PM   #1009
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Wow - SK8R29

That sounds truly awful.

I've had a few leaks & I have some filiform in a few places. The leaks I've fixed. I've just thrown out the Parallex converter because it was noisy & clearly not helping my batteries' longevity but your litany of problems is pretty terrible and make my short list look pretty good.

Like you, whenever I think I might of made a mistake paying a premium for the A/S, I take a look at the SOB interiors & quickly reach for the scopolamine to quell the nausea. The A/S, when it's sound, is quite a lovely resort on wheels. I've resigned myself to needing to stay on top of the gaskets, seams and seals. I will grudgingly repair corrosion when it happens and will not spare my scorn for the manufacturer who has seemingly cut corners on the quality to its peril as a brand icon; but, maybe like you, spend a lot of time dreaming about the next trip - heading down the road with my well-behaved shining A/S in tow. I can hardly wait for next time.

Good luck with the experimental belt-line repair. Let us know how it works out.

-evan
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Old 01-20-2010, 03:57 PM   #1010
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the C on trim and handles is not filiform.

crappy parts and finish perhaps but a different issue.

the "stretch forming" issue has been covered in this thread (early) and in other threads on the newer alcoa clearcoat.

there is NOT much filiform on the end caps, EXCEPT on the CUT EDGES...

which is just like most of the rest of the skin/coating locations, along with random nicks.

the front endcaps might also has sand/stone/debris hitting it to nick the coatings.

trying to RECOAT the end caps is a bad ideal, IF one cares about final appearance.

wax/seal/wax/seal and repeat often.
_____________

and while many of us had concerns about how well the coating would hold up on these curved panels...

those areas have NOT been a focus 4 issues like peeling or coating failure.
___________

and there is GREAT THREAD for posting the other fit/finish/leak/pissnmoanpoorworkmanship issues...

here...

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f142...ity-31210.html

in fact there is a thread like that for EACH year of production since 2003/4...

use'm and read'em if you need MORE reports on the j/c saga...

cheers
2air'
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Old 01-20-2010, 05:25 PM   #1011
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more problems

In my litany of problems that I've had with my AS I forgot to mention that the skylight cracked around the edges in a number of places. This led to leaks and staining/corroding of the interior aluminum around the skylight. Those of you that have skylights might want to add this to your list of things to keep an eye on. Other than the small corrosion mentioned above I haven't seen any evidence of corrosion on the interior skins.

I need to touch up the frame in a few places where the paint has gotten chipped and rust is showing. Anyone out there found a good paint that will match reasonably well?
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Old 01-21-2010, 10:17 AM   #1012
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The skylight problem is well documented. The factory has for a long time screwed the screws down too tight and not used washers to distribute the force. The inevitable result is a cracked skylight and leaks. The next result is the company spends far more to repair the issue—replacing skylight with the labor necessary and doing the installation right. This is a crazy way to run a business and shows something is seriously wrong in JC.

Yes, mine was replaced on Airstream's dime along with a very long list of other problems that were corrected.

Gene
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Old 01-22-2010, 03:43 PM   #1013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sk8r29 View Post
...

I need to touch up the frame in a few places where the paint has gotten chipped and rust is showing. Anyone out there found a good paint that will match reasonably well?
I got some Airstream branded spray paint from Sutton RV when I bought my A/S. They call the frame color paint "Pewter Gray". Airstream probably sells the stuff. You might be able to order it directly from them for an exact match.

I have a few places that tend to rust on the front triangle area & tongue. I have put some rust converter on these areas & touch it up with a bit of this Pewter Gray & its works well. If only the Aluminum corrosion areas were as easy to fix.


-evan
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Old 01-22-2010, 04:18 PM   #1014
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I bought some black and white small cans of Rustoleum and mixed them to approximate Pewter Grey. A lot easier to find them. It took a while to mix, but I got it pretty close and it was good enough for something no one spends a lot of time looking at. First I use rust remover with a primer included. The tongue is the place where I get the most impact scars and rust.

Gene
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Old 01-22-2010, 04:52 PM   #1015
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Only the cut edges of the beltline seam at the endcaps, and only metal around some rivets at the endcaps, show filiform corrosion. No corrosion at the sides, front, or rear. One difference is that in Minnesota summers, evening dew forms on the top of the trailer and drains down the sides at these endcaps areas. The water collects at the cut edges and the rivets and remains all night until mid-morning when the suns dries it. The sides, front, and rear are protected from drainage by the awning rails and windows. Maybe this is a cause of only these areas corroding.

I suspect the water gets between the finish and the metal, corrodes, and then proceeds deeper. If there are other elements on the surface, such as salt spray near the ocean, it would proceed faster. I have looked at a couple Airstreams here in usually dry Arizona and seen almost no filiform.

I doubt Airstream or Alcoa (perhaps the real culprit) will be helping (much). Perhaps if we can find the pieces to this corrosion puzzle, we can put together a solution.
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Old 01-22-2010, 04:55 PM   #1016
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If you buy this paint from Airstream expect to pay 15-20 bucks for a little spray can.
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Old 01-22-2010, 05:03 PM   #1017
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A thought about cut edges. It would figure that some are cut and some are not. It would be good information to know whether cut edges are the ones that corrode and uncut edges , i.e., ones that are coated by Alcoa, do not. If uncut edges corrode also, the cut edge theory is false.

Gene
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Old 01-22-2010, 05:42 PM   #1018
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And another thing...
Are the edges coated at Alcoa? I doubt that they are. They are most certainly run through a flat-line finishing machine, which would concentrate the finish on the flat face, not so much on the edges.
Still, dragging them across the floor would damage the finish at the edges of the face.

Rich the Viking


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A thought about cut edges. It would figure that some are cut and some are not. It would be good information to know whether cut edges are the ones that corrode and uncut edges , i.e., ones that are coated by Alcoa, do not. If uncut edges corrode also, the cut edge theory is false.

Gene
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Old 01-22-2010, 08:10 PM   #1019
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I'm one.

Found these last month high on the rear panels. This area was "clean" when sealed last Fall. No hail or ice falling over the Winter. I inspected the one spot that I missed with the DW's jewelery loupe after first posting this photo and did not find any compromise of the coating. I don't rule out something being there, I just couldn't find it

Don't forget these, nothing at all to do with "cut edges" but still a PITA.

Gooped with clear last Spring, the official JC owner repair. No werse, butt lukz like hades.
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Old 01-22-2010, 10:09 PM   #1020
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Have applied Boeshield, Corrosion X, and wax but I don't think they are stopping the filiform corrosion. I think the tiny seam between metal and coating needs a better seal. Ordered a lacquer pen from Airstream but am hesitating to apply it for fear of another ineffective product, that lukz like hades.
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Old 01-22-2010, 11:30 PM   #1021
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Have applied Boeshield, Corrosion X, and wax but I don't think they are stopping the filiform corrosion. I think the tiny seam between metal and coating needs a better seal. Ordered a lacquer pen from Airstream but am hesitating to apply it for fear of another ineffective product, that lukz like hades.
DK,

It's just a FOMOCO clear-coat touch-up paint. Used basically the same product above, GM.
It has stopped the progression..... but looks like hell.
Knock on wood...my last episode has been on the rear end caps, out'a sight,
out'a-my-mind.

ps IMHO...wd40 works as well as that biocr@p the factory sells, plus it cleans the front stainless segment protectors real gud.
Griot's Paint sealer has worked as well as anything else I've tried for shine & seal.
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Old 01-23-2010, 01:21 PM   #1022
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Paint

I found that the Hammered Finish #7215 Black paint from Rust-Oleum works very well. It matches the bottom paint. I used this to paint my (A) frame. Spray cans work best.
Louis
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