Corrosion problems with new Airstreams

[Howard L.]

Originally Posted by Luckyducks

This clearance light issue also affects 2010 models. I have a 25FB Flying Cloud and I was at Jackson Center for a few final warranty issues last October. I had already seen on AirForums that Airstream was providing the Classic cast aluminum bases for those models with filiform corrosion coming out from the lights. So, since I had filiform creeping out from a couple of lights, I added this issue to my warranty fix list. Airstream, without question, added the base to all of my lights and replaced a few of the lens that broke as they were being removed. The technician showed me that they just insert the lens through the base and reuse the lens, when possible, that was already there. The electric connection wasn't broken on the lens they reused. They just insert the lens through the base and reattach/caulk it. Airstream did not charge me for these parts or the work. I noticed the cast aluminum bases were in the store for around $20-$25 each. Also, I believe it is the same LED lens whether you have a Classic or Flying Cloud or International. Russ

Thanks, Lucky. Helps me since I'll probably be settling up on what we will do with my 30 FC this week. Did JC caulk all areas Doug talked about, ie: the new classic base to the skin, the original base to the new classic base and then the plastic lens to it's original base? It appears if you don't caulk everything, you stop corrosion, but don't necessarily stop condensation.

[dkrug]

I have set up a date to have ours replaced. This is the latest email from Jackson Center:
Debbie,

Hello I will have the castings sent to Nature and Me RV to have them put on your trailer. The running lights that we use are the same on all of our trailers but we use these casting on the Classic trailer. That is the only difference on the running lights.

[dkottum]

Russ and Howard. I wonder if the reason for corrosion coming out from under the 2010 clearance lights is a different issue.

That is, I think the 2010 lights are the earlier incandescent style where the frame did not contact the shell. The 2011/early 2012 uses a LED style with a curved base that does contact and rub the shell. I have had both, in a 2007 and a 2012 Airstream.

My 2012 LED lights corroded where the frame rubs through the clear coat. I think the frame does not rub on 2010-earlier models, but if not caulked water can initiate corrosion where the fixture mounting screws penetrate the shell, and spread out from under the fixture.

This can happen anywhere on the shell where the clear coat is drilled, cut, or scratched and their is no protection of sealant, seals, paint, wax, or (temporary) corrosion inhibitors.

For this reason I would caulk both the lens-to-frame and frame-to-shell junctions. (Note, for drainage Airstream Service Center did not caulk the bottom edge of my frames on the flat Classic fixtures mounted on the sides of the trailer, but caulked all the way around on the curved Classic fixtures near the roof where drainage is less practical.)

doug k

[dkottum]

I had moisture inside 7 of 11 LED style fixtures. Even in the dry months of a southern Arizona winter, sitting in the sun, the moisture would not dry out. I think the lens and electrical base (these are separate from the frame) are a solid unit, but apparently not well sealed because they let water in, but would not dry out. There is a hole in the bottom of the fixture where the wires exit and that should be filled with sealant.

If you have moisture inside these LED assemblies, and you are getting frame replacements from Airstream, you ought to get a new lens/electrical base as well.

doug k

[Luckyducks]

FYI, the clearance lights on the 2010s are LED. The interior lights are incandescent. In 2011 Airstream went to LED inside also.

When JC installed the new bases, they caulked everything - the base to the trailer and the lens to the new aluminum base.

Russ

[dkottum]

Thanks for the clarity Russ, I looked at an early 2010 30' Airstream and it had incandescent clearance lights. Perhaps they switched during the model year, which is confusing but not unusual.

We can add 2010's to the "alert" if they have LED clearance lights.

doug k

[Howard L.]

When JC installed the new bases, they caulked everything - the base to the trailer and the lens to the new aluminum base.

Russ


Thanks Russ. That seems to be the ticket to complete repair. I have these new larger rubber gaskets (photo on previous post) JC sent last week and don't know whether they fit into your repair or were meant for repair if you did not go with the Classic outer castings, but am about to find out. I'll either do this work myself or have my dealer do it. Since JC is not going to be hands on, I'll have to be the final quality control inspector. Want this light issue to go away and stay away.

[Howard L.]

OK, Airstream to authorize, what appears to be the standard fix in for everyone now. Install Classic cast frames around existing lights. They will replace the 6 LED fixtures that are collecting condensation, repair any remaining filiform and caulk everything. Am going to let a fairly close dealer do it that has done the work before.
I have one remaining question still not answered. Is there a silver paint that matches the Alcoa skin color to allow for better blending where corrosion repairs are made to the skin/panel edges or elsewhere? My repairs covered with clear coat come out darker that Alcoa skin. Robert used Thomas Stainless Steel paint and it matched pretty well. I'm trying to find out if there is something even better. A couple of online hobbyists have used different types of Chrome paint and complained that when you clear coat, it turns the chrome to a shiny aluminum look. That may be just what we would be looking for. Going to try a couple of out of the way places on the trailer and will post results if they are worth anything.

[TinShack]

Originally Posted by Howard L.

I have one remaining question still not answered. Is there a silver paint that matches the Alcoa skin color to allow for better blending where corrosion repairs are made to the skin/panel edges or elsewhere? My repairs covered with clear coat come out darker that Alcoa skin. Robert used Thomas Stainless Steel paint and it matched pretty well. I'm trying to find out if there is something even better. A couple of online hobbyists have used different types of Chrome paint and complained that when you clear coat, it turns the chrome to a shiny aluminum look. That may be just what we would be looking for. Going to try a couple of out of the way places on the trailer and will post results if they are worth anything.

Howard, I was curious, what clearcoat did you end up using? I saw that Rustoleum makes a stainless steel paint in both spray and brush on. Also Krylon and Seymour make a spray. I was thinking of trying Rustoleum on mine in a test area. Have you tied any of these? I also ordered a Nyalic clearcoat kit to try as well.

[ROBERT CROSS]

I haven't had any new filiform outbreaks lately, (a benefit of an older trailer I guess). Plus a lot of anal trailer maintenance.

I haven't used this on the AS yet, but I do plan a test on the bare aluminum on the lower unit of our boat motor. I'll try a test patch on an out of the way place on the AS at the same time. Stay tuned.

I've found stopping the spread is pretty easy, finding a texture/color match.....not so much.

I used Rustoleum 7714 Aluminum brush-on for the pealing door hinges. (not filiform just crappy clear application).



Bob

[TinShack]

Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS

I used Rustoleum 7714 Aluminum brush-on for the pealing door hinges. (not filiform just crappy clear application).



Bob

Bob, That looks great. I was curious though, why did you use the Rustoleum on the door hinges instead of the Thomas Stainless that you used on the panels?

[Howard L.]

Originally Posted by CA Streamer

Howard, I was curious, what clearcoat did you end up using? I saw that Rustoleum makes a stainless steel paint in both spray and brush on. Also Krylon and Seymour make a spray. I was thinking of trying Rustoleum on mine in a test area. Have you tied any of these? I also ordered a Nyalic clearcoat kit to try as well.

I tried several hobby paints, "Tester" was one, in silver and aluminum. They came out dark like the bare metal. I wanted to try Ace's Aluminum paint, but can't find it on line and no Ace near me--I've used it on Aluminum outriggers and remember it to be shiny. Ordered a spray can of Krylon, Dupli Color and VHT Plate Finish Chrome to try. The Nyalic works real well. It is thin and if you spray, go light with several almost mist coats. Acetone will take it off if you screw up. Until it cures after a week or so, Alcohol will also. It's a little shinier than Alcoa's coat, but so minimal that you don't notice. Before treating all seams and rivets with Corrosion X, I cleaned and then, with artist brush, Nyalic recoated all exposed seam edges to try to stem the tide on what happened in the photo.

[ROBERT CROSS]

Steve,

The Thomas' SS paint has a has a very slight metalflake look that I felt wouldn't match as well on a larger area.

I am surprised at how well the water based product has lasted though, 4 Seasons so far.

Bob

[TinShack]

Originally Posted by Howard L.

I wanted to try Ace's Aluminum paint, but can't find it on line and no Ace near me--I've used it on Aluminum outriggers and remember it to be shiny.

Thanks for the info about the Nyalic. I looked all over today for the Rustoleum SS paint and others but couldn't find it at Ace, OSH, Lowes or Home Depot. I may have to order it online. One tip I read about SS Paint while doing some research on this was to allow the paint to dry slightly, then give it a directional brush with a very fine dry bristle brush. This should give the appearance of grain pattern that stainless steel and our AS aluminum panels have.

As far as the Ace aluminum paint, it's pretty close but slightly darker. It lacks the "glow" of the clearcoated alcoa panels, but I don't know if this may be rectified somewhat by clearcoating it. I recently painted my old, stained, hot water heater cover with it and this is what it looks like without the clearcoat.

[TinShack]

Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS

Steve,

The Thomas' SS paint has a has a very slight metalflake look that I felt wouldn't match as well on a larger area.

Bob

Bob, Thanks for that. I am going to redo my hinges too, and was thinking about using the Thomas's SS paint, but I think I'll keep looking.

[eheffa]

Originally Posted by Gene

2008 must have been one of the golden years of Airstream marker lamps. We've had no problems with ours (or with our vent pipes leaking at the roof, another common problem). I suspect Airstream went on another cost cutting binge and cheapened the lamps and now has to spend more money fixing the problem. Coat cutting has cost the company money many times in the past and will apparently do so as long as the present executives continue in power at Thor.
...

Gene

Hi Gene,

I am glad to hear that your 2008 has been OK with these issues, but my 2008 has leaked at the plumbing stack/vent gaskets. I was lucky to discover that when I installed our solar panels.

My marker light assemblies get water vapour inside every once in a while. Changing the screws & O-rings hasn't helped but I haven't had the energy to chase this to ground yet. The lights work consistently so haven't been super fussed about this issue.

-evan

[Gene]

The vents have been fine, but the bathroom fan has leaked several times, but enough Sikaflex has stopped it (finally) after several times of slopping gobs of it around the fan on the roof.

Gene

[Howard L.]

Every silver touch up paint I've tried will not match Alcoa skin color all the time. Each paint will, in certain light reflective situations, almost disappear. In others it will show dark, even worse that the bare skin that was sanded and re-clear-coated. JC tech support is working on finding a contact at Alcoa that might be able to offer some advice with this repair. The Alcoa clear coat is baked on, don't know what if anything that has to do with the glowing silver look our trailers have, but JC tech support does not believe there is any type of coating applied to the AL prior to clear coat. Will update findings if and when.

[ROBERT CROSS]

Originally Posted by Howard L.

Every silver touch up paint I've tried will not match Alcoa skin color all the time. Each paint will, in certain light reflective situations, almost disappear. In others it will show dark, even worse that the bare skin that was sanded and re-clear-coated. JC tech support is working on finding a contact at Alcoa that might be able to offer some advice with this repair. The Alcoa clear coat is baked on, don't know what if anything that has to do with the glowing silver look our trailers have, but JC tech support does not believe there is any type of coating applied to the AL prior to clear coat. Will update findings if and when.

Exactly what I've found.

Durability is what I'm looking for now. Maybe I'll find a match by mistake.

Bob

[TinShack]

I'm still working on it too. My Nyalic clearcoat came in the mail yesterday...very quick shipping by the company I must say....I'm going to work on some ideas and experiment this week.