Corrosion problems with new Airstreams

[ginsun88]

Originally Posted by dkottum

Look for one in Arizona, I have seen late model Airstreams there with none of this.

Then; San Diego coastal communities have salt in the air. The aluminum screens on our former house there knew it. You will have to clean and use corrosion preventive treatments regularly, let it go for a couple of years and a new trailer will look like this one.

There is good info in this forum on corrosion prevention and repair but it's usually buried with grumbling.

doug k

Thanks for the tips Doug, have been advised by others to look in AZ.

San Diego elements will be a challenge as that's the reason that we're buying in the first place - to enjoy the miles and miles of beaches!

DH won't let me grumble much especially since this is my idea!

[ginsun88]

Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS

Grace,

Best option....and I know it's hard, resist the impulse and continue looking, not all are effected to that extent, the good ones are out there, it just may take some time.

Bob

Bob, I had a sinking suspicion that this was what you'd advise. I did pass on this trailer, but tossed and turned thinking about it!

So I'll continue looking and hope to find something before summer gets away!

This thread got me my first rivet!

[gtc6452]

have a little corrosion around a maker light , it seem to me that I should remove the light fixture and clean up and treat and put back on. My question is , am I right.?

[TBRich]

ginsun...if it were me, I hate to say it, but I'd walk away from that unit. The corrosion will only get worse, as it's well on its course already ... and I could never be happy with it. We live in Tucson and have an 06 Bambi. Our climate is very very dry, which is to our advantage, and luckily we have virtually no filiform, save for a few very very small bits. I inspect as I wash/clean and if I see anything that looks like it could be remotely related to filiform I zap it with CorrosionX and Boeshield T-9. Both products displace moisture and fill the voids where corrosion spreads. I've managed to stop the very small bit of corrosion I've found, and luckily they are not in obvious places. I hate that stuff.

[BAB]

Same thing on my 2012. Very, very small spot....and I think we all know that what happens is the edge of the light breaks through the clearcoat on the panel...and the filiform begins its nasty journey. Be advised, though, that removing these lights is NOT easy. I had to tap into 12V on the middle clearance light on the rear of the trailer to get power for a rear view camera. The clearance lights have both a clip that holds the lens to the bezel AND they use some of the "impossible to remove" 3M heavy duty two sided tape. It is possible to get the lens off without breaking it, but you have to be VERY, VERY careful as you pry the lens off. Once the lens is off, you can unscrew with fixture and then treat the edge of the aluminum, do a bit of light sanding and then re clear coat.

[Moflash]

My trailer has never been near the ocean or salt and is hand waxed 2- 3 times a year including the roof with the best polymer wax available.It is washed during and after use top and under carriage .I treat belt line and all trim and wheels with Corrosion preventatives.,all of which are mentioned on this sight.
The corrosion slowly formed on the belt line seam,taillights,,clearance lights wheel trim and around lug nuts on wheels etc.To me it appears to be an electrical based corrosion as everywhere two pieces of metal meets it starts
.Being borderline o.c.d like me slows the process but does not stop this corrosion .

[Moflash]

I might also add that when not in use my trailer is stored indoors.i also have covered the concrete floor that it sits on with a thick gauge plastic to keep the vapors and moisture that rises out of concrete at bay.O.C.D ?

[Howard L.]

Robert Cross, here is a small area I've repaired by sanding the filiform away and spot spraying with Nyalic (disregard the vertical streaks as that is applicator error and will be redone). I've used Nyalic on old fishing outriggers that were badly corroded and the stuff works great and lasts years in a salt water environment (no recurrence of corrosion in the pitted areas after 4 years). The Nyalic spray blends right in with the Alcoa clear-coat and shows no overspray, so the fix is a very good one. As you can see from the photos, the repaired aluminum shows up much darker, depending on how the light hits it. Do you think a coat of aluminum silver paint, prior to the Nyalic, would help the areas blend in better, or will that also show a different reflection and color.

I have quite a few areas around running lights, rivets and skin edges to repair. The small ones will be done with a dremel and then touched up with artist brush and liquid Nyalic. The larger areas will be sanded and sprayed as this one is. The product comes in spary cans and quart cans. You have been on this for so long, please pass along your thoughts.

[gtc6452]

I have cleaned mine up some , but have an appointment at the Jackson Center on fri. Want to see how they handle it.

[ROBERT CROSS]

Originally Posted by Howard L.

Robert Cross, here is a small area I've repaired by sanding the filiform away and spot spraying with Nyalic (disregard the vertical streaks as that is applicator error and will be redone). I've used Nyalic on old fishing outriggers that were badly corroded and the stuff works great and lasts years in a salt water environment (no recurrence of corrosion in the pitted areas after 4 years). The Nyalic spray blends right in with the Alcoa clear-coat and shows no overspray, so the fix is a very good one. As you can see from the photos, the repaired aluminum shows up much darker, depending on how the light hits it. Do you think a coat of aluminum silver paint, prior to the Nyalic, would help the areas blend in better, or will that also show a different reflection and color.

I have quite a few areas around running lights, rivets and skin edges to repair. The small ones will be done with a dremel and then touched up with artist brush and liquid Nyalic. The larger areas will be sanded and sprayed as this one is. The product comes in spary cans and quart cans. You have been on this for so long, please pass along your thoughts.

This is the best "match" I've found. This was a spot right around the entrance door handle. Impossible to ignore.

Before....




Cleaned filiform from surface, softened with WD40.
Lightly feathered with 600grit wet paper. Cleaned with mineral spirits. Painted with Thomas' Stainless Paint and clear.

After....



About to test a new clear....KBS Diamond Finish Clear Coat.

Will up-date...

Bob

[Howard L.]

About to test a new clear....KBS Diamond Finish Clear Coat.

Will up-date...

Bob


Thanks, I'll try an out of the way place with the AL paint followed by Nyalic clear coat to see it I can get a better skin match. I will keep updates coming as I work the rest of the small and larger places this weekend. The Nyalic itself matches the Alcoa clear coat perfectly with no overspray showing when shot from a spray can. Plan on using a small artist brush to treat all exposed outer sheeting edges, filiform showing or not. As Gene said if Airstream would treat the edges again after construction, the major source of the skin corrosion would be almost eliminated.

Nyalic®

If you want to check it out--spray cans or liquid quart cans. They said they completely stripped and sprayed the product on two older Airstreams in Australia with great lasting success. I'll try to get pictures if I can. Also said they approached Airstream with the product, but Airstream happy with how they are finishing and repairing now. Would be nice if we were happy too.

[cwf]

Originally Posted by Howard L.

About to test a new clear....KBS Diamond Finish Clear Coat.

Will up-date...

Bob

Thanks, I'll try an out of the way place with the AL paint followed by Nyalic clear coat to see it I can get a better skin match. I will keep updates coming as I work the rest of the small and larger places this weekend. The Nyalic itself matches the Alcoa clear coat perfectly with no overspray showing when shot from a spray can. Plan on using a small artist brush to treat all exposed outer sheeting edges, filiform showing or not. As Gene said if Airstream would treat the edges again after construction, the major source of the skin corrosion would be almost eliminated.

Nyalic®

If you want to check it out--spray cans or liquid quart cans. They said they completely stripped and sprayed the product on two older Airstreams in Australia with great lasting success. I'll try to get pictures if I can. Also said they approached Airstream with the product, but Airstream happy with how they are finishing and repairing now. Would be nice if we were happy too.

Well, the things used by NASA will dwindle thanks to recent financial axe to pay for something important.

[Howard L.]

Here's a rundown of what I did with the lights. Fixed the corrosion by sanding and re-clear coating with Nyalic spray. Cut small pieces of 1/8th inch thick Rubber Pipe Insulation Tape--self adhesive and pressed the sticky side to both the front and rear of each light (the metal base is concave with sharp edges, so the pressure on the flat side skin when tightened is at the front and back, i.e. wonder why the corrosion starts there? duh). Used a sharp razor knife to trim excess away, using the edge of the base as a guide. Dip the knife in paint thinner so as to minimize the knife sticking to the adhesive. Started the mounting screws back in place but did not tighten. Rolled some thin "ropes" of Plumbers Putty and placed along the edge of the base. Tightened base and removed excess putty. The putty will stay pliable and not harden. I'm not sure if it will try to collect dirt or not, but can be removed and something else used if it does. Don't know what that sticky stuff Airstream uses is, but the putty will be water tight and the 1/8th inch foam tape will stop metal to metal contact. There should be a rubber gasket base for those lights and maybe the 2013s have it, but my 2012 does not and of course, there in is the problem.

[dkottum]

Howard, Airstream has (unofficially) recognized that clearance light/corrosion problem on 2011/early 2012 models as they went from incandescent to LED light fixtures, and provided a thicker gasket for them as a fix. Contact Customer Service if you need more help with this.

These plastic frames and fixtures are not admirable. The Classic models use a heavier aluminum frame and fixture that is a good replacement, and the route we took.

doug k

[SteveSueMac]

Originally Posted by dkottum

Howard, Airstream has (unofficially) recognized that clearance light/corrosion problem on 2011/early 2012 models as they went from incandescent to LED light fixtures, and provided a thicker gasket for them as a fix. Contact Customer Service if you need more help with this.

These plastic frames and fixtures are not admirable. The Classic models use a heavier aluminum frame and fixture that is a good replacement, and the route we took.

doug k

Doug - can you post pics of the updated frame/fixtures? Thx!

[fmr.capt.evi]

Originally Posted by dkottum

Howard, Airstream has (unofficially) recognized that clearance light/corrosion problem on 2011/early 2012 models as they went from incandescent to LED light fixtures, and provided a thicker gasket for them as a fix. Contact Customer Service if you need more help with this.

These plastic frames and fixtures are not admirable. The Classic models use a heavier aluminum frame and fixture that is a good replacement, and the route we took.

doug k

Given Airstream's knowledge and experience, they should be ashamed of themselves.

[dkottum]

Originally Posted by SteveSueMac

Doug - can you post pics of the updated frame/fixtures? Thx!

They're the same as on the 2012 and up Classics with LED clearance lights. Airstream Store sells them, I don't know if they will mail them out, may have to go through a dealer. They're a little larger than the original plastic assemblies, look good.

You'll need both aluminum frame and matching LED fixture, which has wire pigtails. Airstream Service Center installed mine, cut old wire and spliced on new ones. I believe new holes had to be drilled for screws to hold them. They sealed lens and also frame with Acrl-R leaving the bottom of the frames unsealed to drain any trapped water.

doug k

[SteveSueMac]

Here's a pic of one of mine that is capturing moisture and if you zoom in on it, do you see filiform filiforming on the rear/thin side?

It's a 2012 but was manufactured in October so I'm not sure if this is what it should look like...what do you think?

[Hoonanea]

SteveSueMac -- you should contact your dealer or Airstream directly. My 2012 had the same problem and Airstream will supply a nice upgrade kit and materials for your dealer to do the work under warranty. It worked well on mine and I think it enhanced the appearance, too.

[dkottum]

Originally Posted by SteveSueMac

Here's a pic of one of mine that is capturing moisture and if you zoom in on it, do you see filiform filiforming on the rear/thin side?

It's a 2012 but was manufactured in October so I'm not sure if this is what it should look like...what do you think?



Attachment 190830

That's a double problem, leaking fixture lens and fixture frame rubbing through the clear coat finish. Yes that's the faulty fixture before the larger seals were installed at the factory. The corrosion will get much worse, but is not nearly there yet. The Classic fixture is slightly larger and will cover it.

You're still under factory warranty which specifically does not cover corrosion but the company can authorize repairs "in good faith", and probably will.

I had 7 of 11 fixtures leaking and a tiny indication of corrosion at the corner of two of them. They replaced them all with Classic fixtures.

Contact Airstream Customer Service, not your dealer. Ask for the Classic model fixtures to cover the corrosion that has started. Email them good pictures to support your claim. They will know exactly what you're talking about and most probably will offer a repair.

doug k